Re: Re: F5 Pcb
Setting the FET to either side is another possibility that will spread them more, I might do also this iteration which may accommodate some heatsink arrangements.
Regarding ZM comment of temp tracking of the JFET - a valid one regarding offset stability - can be solved by using two small pieces of alu as heatsink a la Cheff DeGaar on his UGS thread. I personally prefer this system rather than cramping both transistors and gain dissipation in the process.
defect9 said:
Setting the FET to either side is another possibility that will spread them more, I might do also this iteration which may accommodate some heatsink arrangements.
Regarding ZM comment of temp tracking of the JFET - a valid one regarding offset stability - can be solved by using two small pieces of alu as heatsink a la Cheff DeGaar on his UGS thread. I personally prefer this system rather than cramping both transistors and gain dissipation in the process.
Dougie085 said:
You dont need to buy a laser printer. Local copy shops have laser equipment and will print on your paper(photo paper) Not a big deal.
As for proto boards the best I've used are Velleman sold by All Electronics. Epoxy substrate with your choice of copper patterns. The best part is the flux coating on the copper pads making soldering VERY EASY.
This amp does'nt need a PCB. The biggest expense is the power supply. ZV5 variety will do just fine.
Simplicity triumphs!!
Nelson Pass said:
Noted, thanks.
By the way, some of manufaturers apply low usage fator (=high
safety factor) for their products to buy respected name values,
and minimise any possible claim. Therefore, utilizing the low
usage fator, we could abuse them...
It is the same in the industries where I'm working. But, I always
not allow the users to go over the maximum ratings specified
by the menufaturers, for the safety reason. Watching out and
controlling these kinds of things is my job.
Nevertheless, I have used JFET with more than the rated current
crossing over the Vdg zero axis...
jam said:
I'm not a cap fetishist
This is a low Z (high currents) environment and the influence of the caps is really negligible. The circuit as it is shown in post #267 can easily swing 22 V which is more than I need. Of course, there are component's values that need tweaking - more about that when it comes to actual building of the amp.
I'm definitely going to build one of these I'm just not sure which version yet you guys keep posting up all kinds of versions. What does X'd mean exactly? I was interested in the big power version. I want to build 2 mono block amps and I'm thinking 2 of those heatsinks I showed per chassis one per side. Just trying to price everything out and what not. I would like to do a balanced version though but I'm not sure how to design it that way because I'm just not good at that. So if anyone designs a balanced schematic thats finalized let me know I'm very interested I may just build a BAL to SE converter though for my DAC. It has balanced outputs. I think I'll be starting on this amp before to long though and if I don't see anything else I like better I might just build Nelson's original schematic. The amp is easy I'm still trying to figure out the PSU a bit but I think I got it.
I may just build a BAL to SE converter though for my DAC. It has balanced outputs. I think I'll be starting on this amp before to long though and if I don't see anything else I like better I might just build Nelson's original schematic. The amp is easy I'm still trying to figure out the PSU a bit but I think I got it.I figured the PSU out to cost about 91 bucks in parts before shipping. About 22 in parts for a single amp board. Does this sound right? I'm not completely sure about the PSU because I wasn't sure what specs the zeeners needed and the rectifiers. Pretty sure those 2MH parts are inductors correct? I couldn't find any 30,000uf caps on Mouser but I found some 33,000 ones. I can look around but I'm pretty sure more is better?