F5 Listening Impressions & Discussion

If you are using F3 with stock electrolytics at the output, F5 most likely will be better. However, with dedicated caps chosen for specific crossover points in high pass mode, F3 is something special: I haver 2 separate caps connected at amp's output: Siemens MKV 6.8uF for tweeter and BG N 330uF for midrange.

F5 is more intense and lively, F3 is smoother and probably still more refined.

I use F3 in my main system (high pass) , F5 in full range secondary system.

Yes I completely agree with you, and I think that is the best approach for F3. Your wording is perfect - it best describes the sound of both. I have to check my notes, but when I measured where is the fall off - it started somewhere around 100Hz with 45uF. What is your cut off point for the mids?
 
Yes I completely agree with you, and I think that is the best approach for F3. Your wording is perfect - it best describes the sound of both. I have to check my notes, but when I measured where is the fall off - it started somewhere around 100Hz with 45uF. What is your cut off point for the mids?

Peter, your speakers are gorgeous! What are the ribbons? Particularly what is the mid ribbon?
 
I was aiming at 120Hz (with 4 ohm FAL driver)

Did you chose your BG cap based on calculation or measurement, or you just wanted to give the most you can with the best available cap? My starting goal with all the experimentation was to settle on one amp for mid and tweeter. I have been running my system with tubes driving mids and Aleph 30 on the top. I kind of wanted to simplify, and look where I am heading :p
 
I chose BG cap based on availability: next higher value after 100uF is 330uF in N type, and I just couldn't think of anything better for this application.

The ribbon is Aurum Cantus: I was using Raven 2 before and I don't see much difference in sound, but durability of larger AC ribbon is convenient, especially with 2nd order filter. The midrange is from FAL: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/69176-anybody-tried-fal-drivers.html

The woofers of course are Focal. I've built those speakers in '96 and recently upgraded mid section, everything is open in a back.
 

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I chose BG cap based on availability: next higher value after 100uF is 330uF in N type, and I just couldn't think of anything better for this application.

The ribbon is Aurum Cantus: I was using Raven 2 before and I don't see much difference in sound, but durability of larger AC ribbon is convenient, especially with 2nd order filter. The midrange is from FAL: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/69176-anybody-tried-fal-drivers.html

The woofers of course are Focal. I've built those speakers in '96 and recently upgraded mid section, everything is open in a back.

Just plain awesome, my dear fellow ribbon lover!
 
I did that but still in the testing stage. I made so far F3, F5, F5 bridged and Aleph JX out of the same enclosure. I have been thinking of having several amps in one enclosure. Since I am still waiting for the BA boards I will hold on making a definitive decision. So far I have to say F3 sounds very, very, very good. I like it a lot. In the output I used polyprop caps - something like 45uF and no big electrolythic since I am using these amps only above 200 Hz. F3 is awesome sounding. Here are the speakers I am driving - just upper portion, mids and ribbons:D.

The Super V is 97 db efficient so 15 watts should be plenty. I should have gone with the F3. I need 90 Hz and above so I guess I should stay with the
electrolytic.

Ray
 
Jozef,

Have you checked the temperature - after it has been on for a while - of the copper strip that you have the mosfets connected to?

I can't imagine that you are getting good transfer through the painted case to the big heatsink... but maybe.

Important to check...

wondering why you didn't mount the heatsink on the back, since the photo shows that it is open...

_-_-bear
 
Jozef,

Have you checked the temperature - after it has been on for a while - of the copper strip that you have the mosfets connected to?

I can't imagine that you are getting good transfer through the painted case to the big heatsink... but maybe.

Important to check...

wondering why you didn't mount the heatsink on the back, since the photo shows that it is open...

_-_-bear

Bear,
Two cooper strips are bolted direct to big heatsinks.
Here as you see not perfect hole on painted chassis side.
Before I have other amps in this chassis with much smaller heatsinks.
I just open the hole more by drill and jigsaw.
Here also small tick ceramic plates uder the BUZs .

Regards