Pico, hopefully it just means that David is understanding why you suggested that particular part. 🙂
Bloody notice
Hei pico
Of course I took notice of the link. I even went there to have a look at it...
But as mentioned, I first had to realize what I was looking at. Then that wave splashed over me and I overlooked you already pointed me to the best (?) can available.
And I still have to accept (learn?) that one truth (mo‘ cap mo‘ good)—this seems to be just a too simple fact for my squarehead to settle in. (My brain seems to be like one of those boutique-parts, needing many 100s hours to burn in 😀)
David
Hei pico
Of course I took notice of the link. I even went there to have a look at it...
But as mentioned, I first had to realize what I was looking at. Then that wave splashed over me and I overlooked you already pointed me to the best (?) can available.
And I still have to accept (learn?) that one truth (mo‘ cap mo‘ good)—this seems to be just a too simple fact for my squarehead to settle in. (My brain seems to be like one of those boutique-parts, needing many 100s hours to burn in 😀)
David
Hei pico
Of course I took notice of the link. I even went there to have a look at it...
But as mentioned, I first had to realize what I was looking at. Then that wave splashed over me and I overlooked you already pointed me to the best (?) can available.
And I still have to accept (learn?) that one truth (mo‘ cap mo‘ good)—this seems to be just a too simple fact for my squarehead to settle in. (My brain seems to be like one of those boutique-parts, needing many 100s hours to burn in 😀)
David
See. You’re already addicted.
Hahaha
These capacitors say "for Audio" on the data sheet...
LKS1V273MESC Nichicon | Mouser
.
I have no idea if that actually makes a difference, but some people believe it's important. 🙂
LKS1V273MESC Nichicon | Mouser
.
I have no idea if that actually makes a difference, but some people believe it's important. 🙂
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So.
If I get it right (forgive incorrect terms), everything above the required voltage principally works.;
Correct.
If I stay below the minimal capacitance requirement, it won't sound good cause it discharges on heavy loads.
The more capacitance, the longer can it deliver (doesn't discharge).
Effectively correct.
The higher the rated ripple, the better the cans can sustain (not offenbach 🙂) the voltage's ripple etc.
Correct. Interestingly, ripple rating is almost entirely a function of the physical can size.
The lower the ESR, the better some anyhow (haven't got that yet... 😱)
Perhaps. Don't worry about it, these are all good capacitors.
Ripple rating is almost entirely about heat stressing the capacitor. A larger can has both more thermal mass and more area for thermal dissipation (although the second more closely follows the height of the can than the diameter).
See. You’re already addicted.
Hahaha
I was addicted even before I knew 🙂
The sky is clearing up! Thank you all!
(Follow—up: that ESR—is not really important on, uhm, PSU-cans, but has to be addressed when used „in the circuit“, right? Is it related to the bleeding or is this another story altogether?)
(Follow—up: that ESR—is not really important on, uhm, PSU-cans, but has to be addressed when used „in the circuit“, right? Is it related to the bleeding or is this another story altogether?)
The sky is clearing up! Thank you all!
(Follow—up: that ESR—is not really important on, uhm, PSU-cans, but has to be addressed when used „in the circuit“, right? Is it related to the bleeding or is this another story altogether?)
It is important, but the differences between caps of similar specs is so close it’s probably not worth worrying about.
Obviously if one cap has an ESR of 200mOhms and another has 15mOhms then obviously you should choose the lower ESR cap in the power supply.
If you’re kind of the person who is going to sleep better knowing they bought 15mOhm ESR caps vs 20mOhm ESR caps, then get the 15mOhm caps. Sleep is important. Hahahaha
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Hey David,
It's fine to try to understand the specs of parts, but just don't get into
choice paralysis and end up not building anything. 🙂
Earlier you expressed concern about 'authenticity'. It may help to know that
things can change even during the life of a model. For example, more recent
J2's use 90000 uF per rail while earlier ones used 60000uF. And just
because newer ones have more caps doesn't mean older J2s are in any way
bad...
Enjoy your build.
Dennis
It's fine to try to understand the specs of parts, but just don't get into
choice paralysis and end up not building anything. 🙂
Earlier you expressed concern about 'authenticity'. It may help to know that
things can change even during the life of a model. For example, more recent
J2's use 90000 uF per rail while earlier ones used 60000uF. And just
because newer ones have more caps doesn't mean older J2s are in any way
bad...
Enjoy your build.
Dennis
choice paralysis and end up not building anything. 🙂
[...]
Enjoy your build.
Dennis
Thanks, Dennis
I've made my choice—I'll go modern, with big (not huge) cans.
😉
Correct. Interestingly, ripple rating is almost entirely a function of the physical can size.
And if you have say a 12x30 and a 16x25 cap with the same value/voltage rating and of the same series of a chosen manufacturer I have noticed that the taller caps do have a higher ripple current rating (per datasheet). FWIW
EDIT: I just noticed post #27 from JeffYoung and I am happy to have learned something new 😉
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looking back at capacitors
6L6, I remember you wrote in the build-guide that you were preferring "some specific can", around 22mF?, and that capacitance didn't really matter up to a certain amount...
Now, I'v got those BIG cans ( 47 mF 35 V )
and now I'm worried about the inrush current...
how do I handle it the best way?
(Maybe ZM chimes in?)
Thank you!
david
6L6, I remember you wrote in the build-guide that you were preferring "some specific can", around 22mF?, and that capacitance didn't really matter up to a certain amount...
Now, I'v got those BIG cans ( 47 mF 35 V )
More capacitance, more good.
380LX473M035A082 Cornell Dubilier Electronics (CDE) | Capacitors | DigiKey
and now I'm worried about the inrush current...
how do I handle it the best way?
(Maybe ZM chimes in?)
Thank you!
david
6L6, I remember you wrote in the build-guide that you were preferring "some specific can", around 22mF?, and that capacitance didn't really matter up to a certain amount...
Now, I'v got those BIG cans ( 47 mF 35 V )
and now I'm worried about the inrush current...
how do I handle it the best way?
(Maybe ZM chimes in?)
Thank you!
david
Bloody sissies.
I’ve got over 240,000uF per rail in the supply I am building now.
In another supply 440,000uF per rail.
The bloody thermistor takes care of in rush current.
I have some 20 Ohm thermistors if you want to go up in value, but the stock ones should be fine.
That’s not a cap.
Now this is a cap.
Hahhaha
I‘d say that‘s a capperone... 😀
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