I think that is much the same as my objection, but i did a drawing to check it out, and the 33” is far enuff away as long as any MT is not too large or widely spaced. This just leaves any discontinuity of of response (Frequency & time) at the XO point.
I know from direct experience this is not an issue with uFonken at that distance. You can move your head around a considerable amount.
There are something like at least a 100 pr of these (and variants) so some comments should be out there.
dave
That is one of the coaxes mentioned earlier, and one i did an alternate box for. Being a coax, get the XO right and many of the issues of an XO in the critical range go away. The little Tannoy should work well too (i believe Moray has some really good things to say about them).
One has to work really hard to get bass out of a 3”. These probably do the best, and will reach near 40 Hz, whether it can move suffiicent air for you is another question. I realisticly suggest about 60 Hz.
If that is sufficient bass is very much a personal thing, abouve 100 Hz or so near field they can be quite stunning, and few multways at any price will ha as coherent and seemless. Also, do not think that HF dispersion is any worse than most domes, the 19mm duscap does an admirable job of the HF.
There are many 4s that will reach your 40 Hz figure, if you can find any the Pluvia 7 is a bass king (as is the EL70 that preceded it by over a decade).
dave
It was a while ago, but I did listen to some FH3s with Alpair 7s. Pretty good, but you could tell when something with "real" bass replaced them. The FH3s are capable of much more SPL than is required (IMO) for desktop use, hence my choice to go sealed & EQ.
I tend to aim for 40Hz as a minimum target, with 30Hz being preferable, for all of my listening systems. The Kef HTS3001SE eggs manage 40Hz at desktop levels, but the extra EQ required for 30Hz extension drops the usable SPL even further. A 5 or 6" coaxial would do better, but then the boxes are getting big...
Chris
Page 296-297 from Toole's book.
The nearfield is defined by, when the soundsource level drops 6 dB when the listening distanse is doubled in a reflection free enviroment.
This is about 3-10x the largest dimentions of the speaker.
Im going against the grain here, you say you like heavy music I doubt a small full range is going to cut it especially without a sub to reinforce the low end... Pantera or similar will not sound good at all.
Im going to suggest not DIY and look for some studio monitors as they are made for nearfield use.
I was needing some for a nearfield use and with a flat wide range that extends quite low for a synthesizer work station(capable of generating under 10Hz if you want...) I was looking to build something but didnt have the time to spare so I started looking a studio monitors.
For the capability's I needed buying brand name SM's was going to cost a bomb, I ended up stumbling on to youtube reviews and finding that Edifier S3000 Pro's pretty much ticked all the boxes and cost about $700 only thing was they are a mid sized bookshelf.
These things blew me away really surprising me, they have a good FR and get down low... low enough to be looking for a hidden sub! They sound great on the synth on the monitor EQ setting(yes they are a active speaker)and really crank loud on the dynamic setting in a large room and yes I like my music heavy and loud, I've even used them as party speakers in my pergola, everyone was super impressed... and most were looking for the sub
They have good connectivity BT optical rca XLR and USB making them very versatile.
Im going to suggest not DIY and look for some studio monitors as they are made for nearfield use.
I was needing some for a nearfield use and with a flat wide range that extends quite low for a synthesizer work station(capable of generating under 10Hz if you want...) I was looking to build something but didnt have the time to spare so I started looking a studio monitors.
For the capability's I needed buying brand name SM's was going to cost a bomb, I ended up stumbling on to youtube reviews and finding that Edifier S3000 Pro's pretty much ticked all the boxes and cost about $700 only thing was they are a mid sized bookshelf.
These things blew me away really surprising me, they have a good FR and get down low... low enough to be looking for a hidden sub! They sound great on the synth on the monitor EQ setting(yes they are a active speaker)and really crank loud on the dynamic setting in a large room and yes I like my music heavy and loud, I've even used them as party speakers in my pergola, everyone was super impressed... and most were looking for the sub
They have good connectivity BT optical rca XLR and USB making them very versatile.
I am pretty sure he is talking abut the same distance thing i was, but the geometry did not show that to be a big issue if you use a small bezel tweeter.
A half-metre is about 20”.
dave
To heck with the speakers for a moment Flaxxer, let’s see pics of the bus.
All will work out later.
After a bit of surgery ... you asked, Cal.
Started off looking like this .... obviously there was a female around.
But I rid myself of the Thot, and it became my man cave/workshop. Changed it a good bit. Now the interior is completely wood.
And here is the very listening position I'm referring to in my OP ... With speakers my son requested being tested..
Naw ... I don't own a bus ... not me. Uh, why not? You should see it now. The remodel is amazing. Hopefully I'll be finished in a month. Surgery delayed me. The strangest thing about the bus is this ... Speakers should sound horrible in it. They sound amazing somehow. Lucky with the spaces acoustic I guess. The freq response before DSP room correction is very good, and doesn't need much correction at all. I sit 8 ft from them.
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33" isn't extreme nearfield, its nearfield period. 1-2(3?) meters if I remember correctly. I'm aiming to use a pretty large system that close...as long as the midwoofer Ka is lower than 2 at crossover, not much to worry about accept for timing. Extreme nearfield to me would be like 12-24".....I want to build a high performance system meant to be listened to at 12".........XD
12" = 30,5cm
33" = 83,8cm
i would think all these distances can be called extreme nearfield, any closer and you almost got a pair of headphones
They are not that hard to find the believe it or not. They're more difficult to find now that a lot of the middle class has lost their homes. I live in a very touristy area. I see at least 10 bus conversions come through my town a year. Every year I see more and more of them that are really nice. When I speak to these people I find out most of them had to sell their homes, and chose to do it their way, instead of an RV manufacturer choosing where everything goes. Last year our school sold off a really nice 40-foot School Bus at auction. It's sold for $2,000. This one was good enough to drive all the way across the country easily and back multiple times. I traded a 2000 g m c Yukon 4 my bus even. I'll attach some more photos and info but I don't want to screw this thread up more than one more post about the bus. If anyone wants information they can p.m. me though.
The entire time I was considering what I was going to do about my computer speakers, I forgot completely car audio speakers are made to sound good just a couple of feet away. I'm going to buy some high-quality coaxials and build enclosures behind the windows and down the sides of the bus, where it will not restrict my vision any higher than the speakers themselves. I will make the front of the speakers angled if need be for best frequency response at the listening position.
I think I know the answer to this but here's a good question. I have a 6 and 1/2 in Focal flax component set that is amazing. They may be the very best car speakers I've ever heard regardless of price. The only issue is, being component speakers the mid has a phase plug. So here is my question. Will I ruin everything if I build a small wire bridge to hold a tweeter in front of the phase plug to make a coaxial? I figure it will screw everything up since they weren't meant to be played that way. The only other option would be to mount the Tweeter touching the mids frame. Can I get some thoughts on this please?
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