I guess I thought you were unsure about going to a full range driver and I thought I'd demonstrate the opportunity in this case.
Other benefits include that sitting so close and baffling into the wall help you to get more out of them, which says something for your heavy music requirement even when using a full range driver.
No, I wasn't suggesting to waveguide a full range driver. Where we might be trying to help with all the suggestions so far, is to get you some nice treble at the same time as the high output you have asked for.
I have a set of FE108EZ. They are very nice and I'd be happy using them in a similar situation.
Other benefits include that sitting so close and baffling into the wall help you to get more out of them, which says something for your heavy music requirement even when using a full range driver.
No, I wasn't suggesting to waveguide a full range driver. Where we might be trying to help with all the suggestions so far, is to get you some nice treble at the same time as the high output you have asked for.
I have a set of FE108EZ. They are very nice and I'd be happy using them in a similar situation.
My favorites there would be Alpair 6.2m or p. But a bit larger to move some more air and go a bit lower to cover more of your ecclectic music collection.
But if needed helper woofer/sub could be added to give a bit more weight in the bottom.
dave
That is not the one most touted but it is, at least on paper, the better Scan 10F. The 8424 is really a midrange.
With no budget limitations, and the same size, Alpair 5.2/3 would be my pick over it.
dave
I am never sure which number is which, but i have the 16 ogm neo ones and they seen in the same league as FF85wk, A5.2/3.
None of the drivers of this size do bass, but they can give a really good impression of it, but they really, really shine as midTweeters, and near-field a lower than normal XO to a pair of 5-6-8. Bi-amped of course (given the unlimited budget).
dave
It is a nice driver. It has stuck around for over 2 decades for a reason. It won’t play loud, takes real effort to get bass out of, has a vintage top, and a midrange to die for. Really likes to be connected to a highish Rout amplifier.
Make a really nice midTweeter.
dave
Another good suggestion. The wall loaded horn has the ability to drag an amazing amount of bass out of smallish drivers.
But the horn mouths need to be in the room, the are for on-wall, not in-wall.
dave
I listen to the same music as you and would definitely lean towards a two way and possibly a sub. Especially since some of Trent's music does go to, or below 20hz. You will not be satisfied with Down in it or Corona Radiata from your typical FRD or small woofer.
How sharp are your DIY skills?
How sharp are your DIY skills?
Well that is another thing ... why exactly are we stuck on a FR driver? I could build a Tarkus outside my window and make it work.
I can build anything DIY speaker related. I first thought of building an outside to inside shelf for a two way to sit on, with the baffle flush. BUT that changes baffle step.
I can build anything DIY speaker related. I first thought of building an outside to inside shelf for a two way to sit on, with the baffle flush. BUT that changes baffle step.
33”.
Unless the XO is low you ar eclose enuff that any multiway will not be far enuff to get good physical integration of the sound from 2 disparate sources.
If you need bass then use a smallish FR and woofers that reach as low as you need. Given how near field, and how much room gain you will halve, it likely does not need to be as capable level-wize as i imagine Face is imagining.
I get some 25 Hz anechoic out of the 6.5” TL in the big MTM. With room gain that is probably low enuff.
All sorts of tricks yo could use.
dave
My advice would be NOT to use a full range driver. At such close distance, you move your head 6" to the side and you're far enough off axis for the high frequency response to go to ish
My computer desk speakers are 3-way with 7" woofers, 3" midrange and 1" tweeter crossed at 650Hz/2kHz. This way they are virtually omni directional and if I move around the frequency response stays flat - reaching to the other side of the desk, standing up and walking around the room is no problem.
If space is tight would go 3-4" midwoofer and a 3/4" tweeter with a compact faceplate (Dayton ND20FB or similar) to make the centre-to-centre distance as small as possible. Cross no higher than 3-4kHz.
My computer desk speakers are 3-way with 7" woofers, 3" midrange and 1" tweeter crossed at 650Hz/2kHz. This way they are virtually omni directional and if I move around the frequency response stays flat - reaching to the other side of the desk, standing up and walking around the room is no problem.
If space is tight would go 3-4" midwoofer and a 3/4" tweeter with a compact faceplate (Dayton ND20FB or similar) to make the centre-to-centre distance as small as possible. Cross no higher than 3-4kHz.
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I agree. I use a pair of 3" Tangbands at my computer and the sweet spot is tiny. I'm planning a new build with a Dayton ND105 woofer and ND16 or ND20 tweeter. The driver spacing is so close that I'm not too worried about phase issues. Prior to the Tangbands I had some PSB 2 ways and they were fine asise from being too boomy because of the lack of baffle step losses on my desk.
If this build is for just one set of ears, you could mount the speakers directly on your chair.
That would give you an even closer listening distance.
Shorter distance = less demand on the drivers.
If the listening distance goes from 33" to 8", the effective SPL will be 12dB higher.
This means you could scale down from 4" full range to 2" full range.
Going smaller gives a flatter and more extended response (example attached).
Couple those tiny speakers with a compact sub directly behind your head and tactile transducers bolted to the chair, and you'll have a full range system that can sound like an earthquake to you, but is barely audible from outside.
