I just found some caps
I just found some caps:
Polystyrene capacitors
WIMA MKS02 1,5nF mks1,5nF
Orange Drop 225P - 0,0015uF
WIMA MKS02 1,5nF, 63V
WIMA FKP1 1500pF, 400V
Which one would you recommend?
I just found some caps:
Polystyrene capacitors
WIMA MKS02 1,5nF mks1,5nF
Orange Drop 225P - 0,0015uF
WIMA MKS02 1,5nF, 63V
WIMA FKP1 1500pF, 400V
Which one would you recommend?
In this case you needn't any trafo, just ballanced buffer. Trafo is an ideal solution to convert ballanced out from DAC chip to single ended RCA out.
You can connect it via SPDIF.
I don't know what to think about it. I didn't seen schematics. But 70 bucks for pair + shipping WITHOUT PSU! is expensive. You can spend this money wisely to buy parts and assemble your own customized buffer to fit your needs. It's quite simple.
McGyver
thanks very much.
I thought that it's better to use trafo anyway for isolation ... I believe even bare dac out connected to xlr should give some sound, but surely wouldnt hurt to have some boost.
Does the tube buffer you have used, have something to do with Thorstens ECC88 cd tubeout?
thanks very much.I thought that it's better to use trafo anyway for isolation ... I believe even bare dac out connected to xlr should give some sound, but surely wouldnt hurt to have some boost.
Does the tube buffer you have used, have something to do with Thorstens ECC88 cd tubeout?
McGyver
I thought that it's better to use trafo anyway for isolation ... I believe even bare dac out connected to xlr should give some sound, but surely wouldnt hurt to have some boost.
Does the tube buffer you have used, have something to do with Thorstens ECC88 cd tubeout?
If I can recall correctly, Thorsten's tube out was designed to fit TDA1541A which is current out DAC. But voltage out dac like CS4397 or CS4398 requires another solution.
Does anyone have a good link for reading up on audio transformers? I found some on general transformers here Welcome To Transformer University but I would like to know about how to wire up audio transformers like my Lundahl LL1517. I also read that there could be phase issues when using a ground isolation transformer for audio.
the tube from schematic Is ecc88 or e88cc
as I know ecc88 requres high above 100V
also which schematic sound best to you the above with one tube for both channels or The Art of Sound Forum - View Single Post - CS4397 dac
No, ECC88 must have anode voltage below 130V. So if your power supply gives voltage less than 130V you can put either ECC88 or E88CC.
Shematic with single tube sounds better than this from The Art Of Sound forum. It's because SRPP have gain about 20, so you must attenuate input signal by resistive divider to get standard ~2V signal level on output. Otherwise you get ~20V signal level which is way too high.
Hello all...
Could somebody be so kind as to tell me which dac to order from ebay? I saw several there but not sure which one to buy.. thanks.
Could somebody be so kind as to tell me which dac to order from ebay? I saw several there but not sure which one to buy.. thanks.
I bought this on ebay,havent got it yet..
Lets see if it has any tweak pontinental..
NEW Version 24bit/192Hz DAC DA CONVERTER W/ USB Kit - eBay (item 140350558799 end time Oct-12-09 02:10:17 PDT)
The CS4398 board with upsampling is the one to get, around $90 US without the power transformer.
Has anyone considered upgrading the USB clock or the clock on the upsampling board with an aftermarket version? (tentlabs, audiocom, etc.)
Its not clear to me how much benefit a third party clock will have, reasons for being skeptical:
Low jitter clocks reap good rewards when applied to old machines with aged crystals and poorly designed clock circuits, modern DAC and CD players tend to have less jitter than 10+ old players. I've seen reports of next to no benefit in some cases.
The PSU matters at least as much as the clock, but is much cheaper than the premium level clocks. The output stage also matters more and shoud be cheaper. Also consider an input transformer. I'd be amazed if a £150-200 type clock is the best bang for your buck.
Doesn't the ad claim low jitter to begin with.
Low jitter clocks reap good rewards when applied to old machines with aged crystals and poorly designed clock circuits, modern DAC and CD players tend to have less jitter than 10+ old players. I've seen reports of next to no benefit in some cases.
The PSU matters at least as much as the clock, but is much cheaper than the premium level clocks. The output stage also matters more and shoud be cheaper. Also consider an input transformer. I'd be amazed if a £150-200 type clock is the best bang for your buck.
Doesn't the ad claim low jitter to begin with.
McGyver
thx for info I would try that schematic
would you please give info on power supply you use with tube out stage
I've experience with Audiocom, Trichord and audioupgrades.co.uk clocks along with the 4 pin xtal on most of the DACs.
Here's my opinion, the latest audioupgrades clock is by far the best I've used to date. The main reason for this is the power supply and quality of the components (especially the xtal)used. The C2 clock has a very high quality low noise regulator incororated (SPower). Given the pricing of all aftermarket clocks, the best vfm option would be to supply your own xtal with an SPower regulator and poss its own supply (£40).
However, if you want the best sounding option, there highly recommend the C2 which would allow you to clock all required area's on your DAC with a single external clock. As always, it comes down to budget! 😱
Just on a side note, many sub £2000 modern CD players use std 2 pin xtals. These are not capable of low jitter??!?!?
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The upsampling board comes with a 4 pin XTAL, many modern players do including some low-mid range ones, and measurements by hifi mags suggest that jitter has become less of an issue.
For power cleaning and regulation the SPower regs do have a good rep with the people that have paid for them, but are pretty expensive and in general subjective diminishing marginal returns sets in quite quickly - is an SPower 'twice' as good as a DIYed Super Teddy Reg etc?
Of course the best results would be had with aditional seperate 5V supplies for the low powered sections, I just don't get the sense that people want to go to those lengths with these DAC boards.
For power cleaning and regulation the SPower regs do have a good rep with the people that have paid for them, but are pretty expensive and in general subjective diminishing marginal returns sets in quite quickly - is an SPower 'twice' as good as a DIYed Super Teddy Reg etc?
Of course the best results would be had with aditional seperate 5V supplies for the low powered sections, I just don't get the sense that people want to go to those lengths with these DAC boards.
Thankyou for your input idlehands.
I agree that it may not be worth the expense in the case of the more expensive aftermarket clocks, but I was considering buying one of the cheaper ones from eBay, this one here for example:
12.000MHz LOW JITTER CLOCK KIT FOR CD PLAYER! - eBay Single Disc Players, CD Players Recorders, Home Audio, Electronics. (end time 25-Oct-09 23:13:59 AEDST)
Regardless, I'm sure you're correct in that modifying the output stage & power supplies will yield more benefit per dollar.
I agree that it may not be worth the expense in the case of the more expensive aftermarket clocks, but I was considering buying one of the cheaper ones from eBay, this one here for example:
12.000MHz LOW JITTER CLOCK KIT FOR CD PLAYER! - eBay Single Disc Players, CD Players Recorders, Home Audio, Electronics. (end time 25-Oct-09 23:13:59 AEDST)
Regardless, I'm sure you're correct in that modifying the output stage & power supplies will yield more benefit per dollar.
You'd be better off getting a Crystek clock from Mouser for about $3 (not the $30 one) & supplying it with a clean, low noise, separate PS.
Hope this isn't a dunm question. I'm loving this DAC but I've got it output to a tripath amp and 20k pot and I can barely get the knob past 10 o'clock it's so loud. My other input sources are just fine. Any ideas on lowering the dac input so I can get the most out of the amp as well?
You could always place some attenuators on your DAC's output. I use these on another source with good results.