I believe he's in Lauderdale-by-the-Sea, an island just east of Fort Lauderdale. At least he's in that general area.
Cool, he's in Broward county, I'm in Palm Beach county, next one north... not that far away. Maybe compare notes at some point once we each have something functional.
Any data on what people are using for amplifiers? I have 2-watt 45-based SET amps using Hashimoto transformers. Should be enough with 95dB sensitivity.
Regards, KM
Any data on what people are using for amplifiers? I have 2-watt 45-based SET amps using Hashimoto transformers. Should be enough with 95dB sensitivity.
Regards, KM
For me, 2W from a decent tube amp would be plenty, but it's hard to venture a guess as to whether it would be adequate for you or not . . . there are people out there for whom it would not be enough.
scottmoose
I have been enjoying your D5nf design from earlier in this thread. It really lets the driver sing, and gives excellent bass. I would use MDF next time, the pine is ringy, but I haven't started bracing or damping yet.
I did a rough and dirty measurement of the bass response in room, 1M distance on driver axis. It is really flat to 290Hz and rolls off -6dB at 60Hz and -15dB at 50Hz. Measured using SPL meter and recorded sine tones at 10Hz intervals.
The low height of the driver is the only drawback. Do you think it could be raised to ear height while still maintaining the acoustic function of the design? I was thinking of stretching out the cabinet to the right height, while maintaining same chamber volume, port dimensions, but the horn section would have to be elongated to go all the way to the floor which I assume is critical to the bass. Raising the speaker 10" up off the floor on a solid wood box destroyed the bass and balance.
I will buy Martin's software and figure it out myself and for future experiments, but just curious about your take on such a modification to your design. Perhaps an existing Spawn design with ear height driver could be adjusted for this driver?
Thanks
Rich
I have been enjoying your D5nf design from earlier in this thread. It really lets the driver sing, and gives excellent bass. I would use MDF next time, the pine is ringy, but I haven't started bracing or damping yet.
I did a rough and dirty measurement of the bass response in room, 1M distance on driver axis. It is really flat to 290Hz and rolls off -6dB at 60Hz and -15dB at 50Hz. Measured using SPL meter and recorded sine tones at 10Hz intervals.
The low height of the driver is the only drawback. Do you think it could be raised to ear height while still maintaining the acoustic function of the design? I was thinking of stretching out the cabinet to the right height, while maintaining same chamber volume, port dimensions, but the horn section would have to be elongated to go all the way to the floor which I assume is critical to the bass. Raising the speaker 10" up off the floor on a solid wood box destroyed the bass and balance.
I will buy Martin's software and figure it out myself and for future experiments, but just curious about your take on such a modification to your design. Perhaps an existing Spawn design with ear height driver could be adjusted for this driver?
Thanks
Rich
Glad they're working for you. Frankly I'd be inclined to leave it alone. The vent profile / flare is rather specific. What you could do is shape the box to a trapezodial profile so it angles the driver backward slightly and aims it at your ears.
BTW -don't try MDF for this. It's not stiff enough for the flare & the front edges will resonate like crazy. Birch ply is more expensive but IMO is a much better choice for this type of cabinet. Or any, come to think of it.
BTW -don't try MDF for this. It's not stiff enough for the flare & the front edges will resonate like crazy. Birch ply is more expensive but IMO is a much better choice for this type of cabinet. Or any, come to think of it.
Scott,
On the subject of materials... agreed that Birch plywood is a great choice and understand the ply construction and advantages. If one were to select a solid wood type, what would be a good choice? You can get solid Birch of course, or something harder like Red Oak or others, I'm possibly considering a solid wood enclosure.
Regards, KM
On the subject of materials... agreed that Birch plywood is a great choice and understand the ply construction and advantages. If one were to select a solid wood type, what would be a good choice? You can get solid Birch of course, or something harder like Red Oak or others, I'm possibly considering a solid wood enclosure.
Regards, KM
Feastrex Driver to arrive
Got an eMail from Joe...it says my Drivers will arrive via UPS on Tuesday!!!
Yea!!!
Ive cut the parts for the box just waiting for the speaker.
Got an eMail from Joe...it says my Drivers will arrive via UPS on Tuesday!!!
Yea!!!
Ive cut the parts for the box just waiting for the speaker.
Scottmoose,
Hi! My name is Mike Luckow, and this is my first post to DIYAudio, so hopefully I'm doing this right. I'll find out soon enough!
I'm interested in the same thing that Richidoo is interested in. I have a pair of D5nf drivers that are badly in need of a home. (I've discovered that corrugated cardboard enclosures don't do much to enhance the bass.)
I like the Moose BVR cabinets that Rich built very much because they're fast and simple, but I'd be even more interested in them if they positioned the drivers at ear height. I guess that one option would be to build them and then cut the bases off at a slight angle (a few degrees) such that the front baffle points upward slightly, to the point where the drivers are aimed at my ears from about 8 feet away, but that would always limit them to being placed about that far away.
If it's impossible to make them taller, then I guess that's what I'll do. Or, maybe I'll go for one of the more complicated designs like what Phil is building, but it would be nice to have something that's faster and easier to build, if possible.
Thanks very much for your help! Your designs are beautiful!
Mike
Hi! My name is Mike Luckow, and this is my first post to DIYAudio, so hopefully I'm doing this right. I'll find out soon enough!
I'm interested in the same thing that Richidoo is interested in. I have a pair of D5nf drivers that are badly in need of a home. (I've discovered that corrugated cardboard enclosures don't do much to enhance the bass.)
I like the Moose BVR cabinets that Rich built very much because they're fast and simple, but I'd be even more interested in them if they positioned the drivers at ear height. I guess that one option would be to build them and then cut the bases off at a slight angle (a few degrees) such that the front baffle points upward slightly, to the point where the drivers are aimed at my ears from about 8 feet away, but that would always limit them to being placed about that far away.
If it's impossible to make them taller, then I guess that's what I'll do. Or, maybe I'll go for one of the more complicated designs like what Phil is building, but it would be nice to have something that's faster and easier to build, if possible.
Thanks very much for your help! Your designs are beautiful!
Mike
Nice drawings Dave! I see you have a real CAD program, but I bet it wasn't free like mine - haha
Your first drawing is interesting. I prefer a little off axis anyway, so the sound quality is just about right for me as they are now, but the imaging is the only issue. Sitting on the floor it is perfect!
The second drawing was kinda what I had in mind, but I was thinking of stretching the horn before I learned that the horn geometry is sacred. Great idea you have there on manipulating the top rear edge while keeping volume constant. Since width must remain the same for the port to work properly there aren't a lot of options. I assume the port needs a vertical rear wall to be optimum. A curved top rear would be optimal for volume, space behind driver and flow through port. Building the curve non resonant would require some effort.
Might some of the larger Frugel-Horn/Spawn designs be adapted to this driver? It has good bass performance, flat midrange and extended highs, so I imagine you will see interest grow for a sophisticated large horn design like Harvey which is optimized for D5nf. I think both Mike and I would build it. Another friend of ours is building Harvey this week, and I know he will flip when he hears this driver compared to his Fostex. That has been the reaction everytime any single driver enthusiast has heard them.
Anyhoo, thanks for the fast and over the top response scott and dave. Makes me want to build more of your designs. Thanks for the help.
Phil, sounds like you're prepped and ready! Good choice on the plywood. It was suggested to me to use birch plywood, but I thought solid wood would be better. Not.. Empty pine box is not too different from sound of a conga drum. I will try bracing today, and try to do a proper FR sweep. I got that circle cutter you recommended, looks great - thanks.
Rich
Your first drawing is interesting. I prefer a little off axis anyway, so the sound quality is just about right for me as they are now, but the imaging is the only issue. Sitting on the floor it is perfect!
The second drawing was kinda what I had in mind, but I was thinking of stretching the horn before I learned that the horn geometry is sacred. Great idea you have there on manipulating the top rear edge while keeping volume constant. Since width must remain the same for the port to work properly there aren't a lot of options. I assume the port needs a vertical rear wall to be optimum. A curved top rear would be optimal for volume, space behind driver and flow through port. Building the curve non resonant would require some effort.
Might some of the larger Frugel-Horn/Spawn designs be adapted to this driver? It has good bass performance, flat midrange and extended highs, so I imagine you will see interest grow for a sophisticated large horn design like Harvey which is optimized for D5nf. I think both Mike and I would build it. Another friend of ours is building Harvey this week, and I know he will flip when he hears this driver compared to his Fostex. That has been the reaction everytime any single driver enthusiast has heard them.
Anyhoo, thanks for the fast and over the top response scott and dave. Makes me want to build more of your designs. Thanks for the help.
Phil, sounds like you're prepped and ready! Good choice on the plywood. It was suggested to me to use birch plywood, but I thought solid wood would be better. Not.. Empty pine box is not too different from sound of a conga drum. I will try bracing today, and try to do a proper FR sweep. I got that circle cutter you recommended, looks great - thanks.
Rich
Pine is fine but you need to get good material, season it properly, and know how best to use its properties. Correctly optimised bracing should be mandatory IMO for all cabinets, irrespective of the material. You can't have too stiff a box.
Phil,
Also got shipping notification from Joe... mine are scheduled to arrive on Thursday. Be interested in what enclosure you're building. I'm aware of the design that Scottmoose did (which Richidoo built) and also the "mailbox style" TL that Ron Thackery did. Are you using one of these or something different?
Regards, KM
Also got shipping notification from Joe... mine are scheduled to arrive on Thursday. Be interested in what enclosure you're building. I'm aware of the design that Scottmoose did (which Richidoo built) and also the "mailbox style" TL that Ron Thackery did. Are you using one of these or something different?
Regards, KM
Dave and Scottmoose,
Thanks very much for your very quick replies!
Yes, I guess that cutting a slight angle off the bottom wouldn't be as limiting as I thought, so that will definitely be one option.
Also, with regard to your second drawing, I can see that the drives would have to be moved down quite a bit to avoid hitting the angled back plate. (The Feastrex D5nf drivers have a near-spherical yoke on the back that's quite large for 5" drivers.) Also, is it okay to change the internal geometry in this way? If so, then that might be a great way to go.
Or, as Richidoo said, I would indeed be interested in building a larger cabinet to start with, such as the Harvey, but I also don't know how it would sound with the Feastrex D5nf drivers since it's designed for the Fostex drivers.
I assume that the Harvey probably produces more bass than the small Moose BVR, is that right? It's certainly a beautiful design!
Phil, are you modifying your Harvey design at all for the Feastrex D5nf drivers? I'll be extremely interested in hearing your report on how how it sounds!
Thanks very much,
Mike
Thanks very much for your very quick replies!
Yes, I guess that cutting a slight angle off the bottom wouldn't be as limiting as I thought, so that will definitely be one option.
Also, with regard to your second drawing, I can see that the drives would have to be moved down quite a bit to avoid hitting the angled back plate. (The Feastrex D5nf drivers have a near-spherical yoke on the back that's quite large for 5" drivers.) Also, is it okay to change the internal geometry in this way? If so, then that might be a great way to go.
Or, as Richidoo said, I would indeed be interested in building a larger cabinet to start with, such as the Harvey, but I also don't know how it would sound with the Feastrex D5nf drivers since it's designed for the Fostex drivers.
I assume that the Harvey probably produces more bass than the small Moose BVR, is that right? It's certainly a beautiful design!
Phil, are you modifying your Harvey design at all for the Feastrex D5nf drivers? I'll be extremely interested in hearing your report on how how it sounds!
Thanks very much,
Mike
Richidoo said:
VectorWorks... not free, not cheap, but more capable than AutoCad with enuff change left over to buy a machine to run it on (ie 24" iMac)
dave
mluckow said:
The Changs and the Harvey family are all really bass reflex, so within reason (you don't want to turn it into a BVR-ML-TL) as long as port geometry is held constant you can manipulate the shape of the actual box part of the box. My 2nd thot on Freddie Chang (the working name for the Feastrex half-chang) was to angle the front panel back.
A double mouth Freddie would certainly follow directly from the single mouth, a mutation of Harvey might be more work (or it might just be a change in the size of the pre-chamber)
dave
Wild FEASTREX Arrives!!!
A 16 pound box arrived today with the drivers all in good order.
Plus a Big bonus from Maqnequest.... The 16 ohm nickel parafeed transformers for my 45 amp...yea Mike!!!
The drivers are simply stunning.
I hope they will speak english since all they have ever heard is Japanese 🙂
A 16 pound box arrived today with the drivers all in good order.
Plus a Big bonus from Maqnequest.... The 16 ohm nickel parafeed transformers for my 45 amp...yea Mike!!!
The drivers are simply stunning.
I hope they will speak english since all they have ever heard is Japanese 🙂
Phil, those drivers are not works of Art; they're works of Hal -- Hal Teramoto. 😉
Hot tip: the voice coil gaps of all Feastrex drivers are tight, and they are more vulnerable interference from any magnetic particles that might fall into the gap. Worse, if something magnetic does get into the gap and starts rubbing, your only hope of avoiding a return to the factory is that you might be able to get lucky and manipulate the particle to a part of the gap where it no longer rubs.
Thus, prevention is very important. Don't ever store the drivers face up without first putting them into a plastic bag that will keep any magnetic particles away from them. Keep them well away from areas where such particles might be found and keep the area around them clean.
Once the drivers are properly mounted in their baffles the chances of any magnetic particles getting into the VC gap are almost nil. But it's when they are not mounted in a baffle that you must be careful.
-- Chris
Hot tip: the voice coil gaps of all Feastrex drivers are tight, and they are more vulnerable interference from any magnetic particles that might fall into the gap. Worse, if something magnetic does get into the gap and starts rubbing, your only hope of avoiding a return to the factory is that you might be able to get lucky and manipulate the particle to a part of the gap where it no longer rubs.
Thus, prevention is very important. Don't ever store the drivers face up without first putting them into a plastic bag that will keep any magnetic particles away from them. Keep them well away from areas where such particles might be found and keep the area around them clean.
Once the drivers are properly mounted in their baffles the chances of any magnetic particles getting into the VC gap are almost nil. But it's when they are not mounted in a baffle that you must be careful.
-- Chris
Chris, Thanks for the tip
I will guard them very carefully
Off to dinner ...My wife has just finish making some homemade tofu infused with fresh herbs and sundried tomatoes. Plus a fine miso soup followed by mochi for desert.
This is of course in honor of Hal and the Feastrex.
I will guard them very carefully
Off to dinner ...My wife has just finish making some homemade tofu infused with fresh herbs and sundried tomatoes. Plus a fine miso soup followed by mochi for desert.
This is of course in honor of Hal and the Feastrex.
Re: Wild FEASTREX Arrives!!!
I guess we won't be hearing much from you for a day or two while you assemble the cabinets. 😉 Savor the first moments of music, but remember it gets better with a little time on the clock. Tighten the phase plugs a little if you hear any buzz. Congrats Phil!
Rich
Phil Townsend said:
I guess we won't be hearing much from you for a day or two while you assemble the cabinets. 😉 Savor the first moments of music, but remember it gets better with a little time on the clock. Tighten the phase plugs a little if you hear any buzz. Congrats Phil!
Rich
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