Blair,
Multiway speaker systems lend themselves very well to the EnABL process. Until the Lowther DX4 mentioned 30 pages or so ago I had never treated a full range driver. Quite a shock actually, to hear how dynamic and musical that beast is, when unchained.
You will need to plan carefully. If you will post some pictures of either face on or slightly angled portrayals I can photo shop some patterns on to the pics to show you what I would do.
Marc,
Typical baffle patterns remove the baffle as the "source" for instrument projection. The sound field will get even quieter than it is now and once you have all of the edges under control, the sound will be wall to wall laterally, floor to ceiling and easily 50 miles deep. At this point you will begin adding pig tails of Electron Pools, cables with adjustable dynamic color and eventually out put transformers that have no storage characteristics. You will also need to EnABL your tweeter.
At some point in this journey you will be listening to music you love and fall into a meditative state of bliss, only to emerge at musics end, refreshed and energetic.
Peter Menting,
I do not know what a CSS driver is. Dave is the expert on full range drivers. I just advise him when he sees something unfamiliar, but he is truly of Master Class abilities in this art form.
Bud
Multiway speaker systems lend themselves very well to the EnABL process. Until the Lowther DX4 mentioned 30 pages or so ago I had never treated a full range driver. Quite a shock actually, to hear how dynamic and musical that beast is, when unchained.
You will need to plan carefully. If you will post some pictures of either face on or slightly angled portrayals I can photo shop some patterns on to the pics to show you what I would do.
Marc,
Typical baffle patterns remove the baffle as the "source" for instrument projection. The sound field will get even quieter than it is now and once you have all of the edges under control, the sound will be wall to wall laterally, floor to ceiling and easily 50 miles deep. At this point you will begin adding pig tails of Electron Pools, cables with adjustable dynamic color and eventually out put transformers that have no storage characteristics. You will also need to EnABL your tweeter.
At some point in this journey you will be listening to music you love and fall into a meditative state of bliss, only to emerge at musics end, refreshed and energetic.
Peter Menting,
I do not know what a CSS driver is. Dave is the expert on full range drivers. I just advise him when he sees something unfamiliar, but he is truly of Master Class abilities in this art form.
Bud
Dave and all,
I am only a phone call away. For all of you.
A direct line to my desk is 425 821 6198. There are no amenities attached, in fact I don't think there is even voice mail. If I just don't answer then 425 823 2279 reaches me through our company, O-Netics, but I will not spend much time during business hours on other than transformer related issues. This number will each me 24/7, however it is not cell phone connected.
Bud
I am only a phone call away. For all of you.
A direct line to my desk is 425 821 6198. There are no amenities attached, in fact I don't think there is even voice mail. If I just don't answer then 425 823 2279 reaches me through our company, O-Netics, but I will not spend much time during business hours on other than transformer related issues. This number will each me 24/7, however it is not cell phone connected.
Bud
Dave,
For the invisible stuff, you must have an oblique light source, plus strong ambient lighting. You need to get used to looking at the bubble of freshly applied paint for guidance. To start I do the first two lower block sets and then the interim upper block set, back to the next lower and then the next upper. This leaves me just enough time to place the pen properly, so once begun it is a push to the end.
Bud
For the invisible stuff, you must have an oblique light source, plus strong ambient lighting. You need to get used to looking at the bubble of freshly applied paint for guidance. To start I do the first two lower block sets and then the interim upper block set, back to the next lower and then the next upper. This leaves me just enough time to place the pen properly, so once begun it is a push to the end.
Bud
Cheers for that Bud. I'm going to attack my baffle shortly as the high gloss finish isn't good enough, so Im going to rub back to satin and apply the pattern in white to match the drivers, should be interesting.
Building up an EnABL kit ready for my Christmas Hols (gonna be applying lots of dots).
I'm already experiencing that, just looking forward to all the other steps I've got to go (AMP needs work, source etc) so I think I've got a long way to go.
Building up an EnABL kit ready for my Christmas Hols (gonna be applying lots of dots).
Good point, Dave...along with the fact that I should not try this too late at night with Evan Williams (or any other Kentucky bourbon) looking over my shoulder.
Group Buy: To express interest, pm me with your selection of Poly Scale color. Once I equip myself with the goodies, I'll advise.
http://www.hobbylinc.com/cgi-bin/a3...tp://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/flo/flof404100.htm
Wiki: Bud, I did recieve your corespondence, have read it and continue to digest it along with yesterday's feast. With visits to 2 other households....coupled with my nearly completed project for debut on Sunday.
Let me offer this a a starting point: Many people are considering this for the first time without an understanding of what is happening in a speaker cone. EnABL is a solution to something not well understood. I think the discussion (for illumination) of wave reflection, standing waves and resultant intermodulation distortion would be in order. This is already present in the thread. I think the largest task is to provide it in an orderly fashion.
ditto, brilliance and dogged determination
Ed LaFontaine said:
This page i got started on last nite may be helpful. When i get my new camera i will add better & more cone pics.
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/driver-colours.html
dave
Hi All, HEMP FR 8
Here we go, again.
The FR 8, in untreated state is a very good driver. Sweet and musical, with the usual whizzer cone difficulties and an unfortunate beaming from the dome. Thankfully they did not attempt to physically advance the high frequency phase as was done on the FR 4.5
Here is a link to pics of the treatment and attached is a zip of the three pages of PDF'd conic sections and pattern rings.
This is a full monty treatment, for the pattern blocks. The main cone has the usual rings at near the beginning of the cone and outer edge. It also has the nodal suppression ring first shown by Soongsc.
Turns out you can find the location for this ring by rubbing your finger tip radially, on the back side of the cone. After listening for a bit to this multi frequency shush, you can clearly hear the point on the cone where the sound changes, swallowing the high frequency scratch and then all reappearing in a different balance just after the null.
The mid cone ring causes this null to evaporate, with a uniform shush across the entire radial rub. A noticeable increase in the solidity of a finger nail tap, with an equally noticeable shortening of the after tap resonance, is available.
Speaking of the cone backside, it is also patterned. The backside conic section is fed in, just under the tinsel connections to the cone and the radial lines are used to guide block placement above the tinsel connections on the cone. The outer periphery pattern supplies the pattern for the cone edge blocks. You may have to trim a pen holder on it's under side to allow you to reach into the upper pattern.
You will definitely have to trim the pen holder to apply the inner ring, on the front face of the main cone. Use the conic section from the front to line up your pen point touches. You will have to have the A series tips and use them upside down to perform this feat. They are not going to look very good either, but you need not worry, they will still work just fine.
Pen tips used are A-3, A-4 and a .035 Rapidiograph for the whizzer bottom rings and dome rings. A Rapidiograph .050 was used on the whizzer upper rings and flange rings. I am sure an A-5 tip will work here, bit not so sure how it will work, down at the bottom of the whizzer and dome.
I will publish Gloss coating instructions in a later posting. It is quite possible no gloss coat will be needed, due to Soongsc's discovery of how to disperse the main nodal resonance from a cone, using EnABL blocks located with considerable specificity. Just wish I could provide him with his beloved test data confirmation.
http://picasaweb.google.com/hpurvine/HempFR8
Bud
Here we go, again.
The FR 8, in untreated state is a very good driver. Sweet and musical, with the usual whizzer cone difficulties and an unfortunate beaming from the dome. Thankfully they did not attempt to physically advance the high frequency phase as was done on the FR 4.5
Here is a link to pics of the treatment and attached is a zip of the three pages of PDF'd conic sections and pattern rings.
This is a full monty treatment, for the pattern blocks. The main cone has the usual rings at near the beginning of the cone and outer edge. It also has the nodal suppression ring first shown by Soongsc.
Turns out you can find the location for this ring by rubbing your finger tip radially, on the back side of the cone. After listening for a bit to this multi frequency shush, you can clearly hear the point on the cone where the sound changes, swallowing the high frequency scratch and then all reappearing in a different balance just after the null.
The mid cone ring causes this null to evaporate, with a uniform shush across the entire radial rub. A noticeable increase in the solidity of a finger nail tap, with an equally noticeable shortening of the after tap resonance, is available.
Speaking of the cone backside, it is also patterned. The backside conic section is fed in, just under the tinsel connections to the cone and the radial lines are used to guide block placement above the tinsel connections on the cone. The outer periphery pattern supplies the pattern for the cone edge blocks. You may have to trim a pen holder on it's under side to allow you to reach into the upper pattern.
You will definitely have to trim the pen holder to apply the inner ring, on the front face of the main cone. Use the conic section from the front to line up your pen point touches. You will have to have the A series tips and use them upside down to perform this feat. They are not going to look very good either, but you need not worry, they will still work just fine.
Pen tips used are A-3, A-4 and a .035 Rapidiograph for the whizzer bottom rings and dome rings. A Rapidiograph .050 was used on the whizzer upper rings and flange rings. I am sure an A-5 tip will work here, bit not so sure how it will work, down at the bottom of the whizzer and dome.
I will publish Gloss coating instructions in a later posting. It is quite possible no gloss coat will be needed, due to Soongsc's discovery of how to disperse the main nodal resonance from a cone, using EnABL blocks located with considerable specificity. Just wish I could provide him with his beloved test data confirmation.
http://picasaweb.google.com/hpurvine/HempFR8
Bud
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