huggy,
I agree cutting the diode off the board then soldering to new short wires is not ideal. But it might be the least bad solution. Trying to de-solder the diode or any multi-lead component can be tricky and fraught with potential damage to board and/or component. The best solution would be to get a new diode but that might not be very time and money efficient.
Regards, S.
I agree cutting the diode off the board then soldering to new short wires is not ideal. But it might be the least bad solution. Trying to de-solder the diode or any multi-lead component can be tricky and fraught with potential damage to board and/or component. The best solution would be to get a new diode but that might not be very time and money efficient.
Regards, S.
I misspoke.
what I wanted to say is that it's not easy for someone who isn't used to it and who risks ending up with pins that unsolder when they solder the diode on them, you see? like everything gets stuck and it ends up in a bunch of solder.
I often use this method when I troubleshoot modern amps that do not have a removable plate underneath to access the PCB, it saves me from having to dismantle and reassemble everything several times before troubleshooting.
Hello.
Thanks anyone for your help. I got a soldering station to replace the soldering iron that failed and also a new diode to replace the D5 diode I had mounted upside down in the unit 1 PCB of the Elekit tu-8100 kit, as in the pictures I posted above. I bought the diode just in case, I'm the worrying type.
I can now resume the build of the amplifier. The new HER108 diode I bought is branded "Since 1983 Nikko" and it is perhaps a tiny bit smaller than the previous, but I suppose it's pretty the same.
Now, I've got to replace this D5 diode. I had already sucked the solder from the two solder joints but the diode doesn't come out yet. There's still a little bit of solder into the hole, on the other side of the PCB. The sucker doesn't get that one.
What should I do to remove it properly? Should I warm up the pads until it comes off? Should I add solder again and then warm it up until the diode comes off?
(I've got a sucker and also desoldering wick)
Thanks in advance,
Thanks anyone for your help. I got a soldering station to replace the soldering iron that failed and also a new diode to replace the D5 diode I had mounted upside down in the unit 1 PCB of the Elekit tu-8100 kit, as in the pictures I posted above. I bought the diode just in case, I'm the worrying type.
I can now resume the build of the amplifier. The new HER108 diode I bought is branded "Since 1983 Nikko" and it is perhaps a tiny bit smaller than the previous, but I suppose it's pretty the same.
Now, I've got to replace this D5 diode. I had already sucked the solder from the two solder joints but the diode doesn't come out yet. There's still a little bit of solder into the hole, on the other side of the PCB. The sucker doesn't get that one.
What should I do to remove it properly? Should I warm up the pads until it comes off? Should I add solder again and then warm it up until the diode comes off?
(I've got a sucker and also desoldering wick)
Thanks in advance,
In regards to soldering. Use 63/37 solder, use flux on all joints, use lint free wipes and 99% isopropyl alcohol on all leads,pads and sockets.Just before putting soldering tip to joint, wipe clean on wetted sponge and tin tip with a bit of solder.
Thanks for the tips.
I'm using 63/37 rosin core. When you say "use flux on all joints", do you mean I should also appy flux before soldering, in addition to the one which is already into the 63/37 rosin core?
Thanks again.
I'm using 63/37 rosin core. When you say "use flux on all joints", do you mean I should also appy flux before soldering, in addition to the one which is already into the 63/37 rosin core?
Thanks again.
Yes, apply additional flux on all joints. I took a Pace high reliability soldering course thru my work years ago as well as a surface mount course later on and both said use additional liquid flux on all joints. In addition i mentioned to use lint free wipes. Pace said non lint wipes left microscopic fibers behind. They had a repair facility that repaired multi layer circuit boards for the military so they know what they are talking about. In addition don't use any kind of eraser to clean leads and pads for the same reason.
Hello anyone, I need some help. I'm afraid I'm stuck.
I'm trying to replace a diode that i mounted the wrong way on unit 1 of the Elekit tu-8100 kit. I got by mail a new diode.
I cut the old diode leads close to the pcb. It was suggested in a previous post. Then I tried to apply the soldering iron tip on the tab, pulling at the same time on the lead pieces with pliers, but it doesn't come out. Perhaps I cut the leads too short.
What should I do?
I'm trying to replace a diode that i mounted the wrong way on unit 1 of the Elekit tu-8100 kit. I got by mail a new diode.
I cut the old diode leads close to the pcb. It was suggested in a previous post. Then I tried to apply the soldering iron tip on the tab, pulling at the same time on the lead pieces with pliers, but it doesn't come out. Perhaps I cut the leads too short.
What should I do?
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Did you add more solder, as I suggested? The solder conducts the heat to the wire you are removing so it gets hot enough along the whole length that is soldered.
What is the brand of the solder you are using? You might not need flux. I never use it generally, but it could depend if the pads on the PCB you are using have tarnished a bit over the years.
I would not have cut the leads of the diode because now you have to hold it with a solid metal item, the pliers, close to the joint, making it harder to get the heat to the joint.
In post #12 you said you had bought a kit to practice soldering, how did that go? It might be worth taking a break, practice on something more straightforward and more disposable, then come back to this.
What is the brand of the solder you are using? You might not need flux. I never use it generally, but it could depend if the pads on the PCB you are using have tarnished a bit over the years.
I would not have cut the leads of the diode because now you have to hold it with a solid metal item, the pliers, close to the joint, making it harder to get the heat to the joint.
In post #12 you said you had bought a kit to practice soldering, how did that go? It might be worth taking a break, practice on something more straightforward and more disposable, then come back to this.
Hello,
I'm trying to replace a diode that I mounted the wrong way on the unit 1 PCB of the Elekit tu-8100. I bought a replacement diode. I made mistakes.
I had already sucked the solder from the two solder joints. Then I cut the leads of the diode, probably too close to the PCB. See picture.
I clasped the two pieces of lead with a small plier and applied the soldering iron tip on the pad and tried to pull. But the two pieces of lead didn't come out. On the contrary, I even managed to get them further inside. Now they stick a tiny bit from both side of the PCB.
Now I can't add solder anymore because the two pieces of lead are two short, and they are difficult to clasp.
I could go ahead with the build and then, when I finish the two main PCBs, unit 1 and 2, go to a radio repair shop and get the two pieces out. But I would like to learn how to do it.
Is there an empathic person willing to help? Thanks in advance. God bless ya
I'm trying to replace a diode that I mounted the wrong way on the unit 1 PCB of the Elekit tu-8100. I bought a replacement diode. I made mistakes.
I had already sucked the solder from the two solder joints. Then I cut the leads of the diode, probably too close to the PCB. See picture.
I clasped the two pieces of lead with a small plier and applied the soldering iron tip on the pad and tried to pull. But the two pieces of lead didn't come out. On the contrary, I even managed to get them further inside. Now they stick a tiny bit from both side of the PCB.
Now I can't add solder anymore because the two pieces of lead are two short, and they are difficult to clasp.
I could go ahead with the build and then, when I finish the two main PCBs, unit 1 and 2, go to a radio repair shop and get the two pieces out. But I would like to learn how to do it.
Is there an empathic person willing to help? Thanks in advance. God bless ya
If you can't pull, then try to push them out. Find another component with a lead that should fit the hole, heat again then try to tease the small bit of lead out the other side, or at least expose it enough on the other side so you can get a grip on it. You do have to be a bit careful when you put too much force into removing the component because the copper pads might lift off the board, and then you have a bigger issue.
What soldering temperature are you using? Aim for a tad more than 350C to try and get the whole over quite quickly. Too low a temperature the heat can cause more damage, too high it can lift the copper. It is a bit of a juggling act, hence the suggestion to just stuff a board and build your confidence.
What soldering temperature are you using? Aim for a tad more than 350C to try and get the whole over quite quickly. Too low a temperature the heat can cause more damage, too high it can lift the copper. It is a bit of a juggling act, hence the suggestion to just stuff a board and build your confidence.
I did it, thanks. I put the new diode.
Should I set the soldering station at 350 C even for normal soldering joints? I'm using 63/37 rosin core and at 325 C it was a bit slow to flow.
Should I set the soldering station at 350 C even for normal soldering joints? I'm using 63/37 rosin core and at 325 C it was a bit slow to flow.
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You want to have localised heat on the joint so the pad and through hole are hot enough for the solder to flow easily, and the part you are soldering. it is good to heat the parts to be soldered, and let the solder flow when they are hot enough. So I hold the end of the solder on the part close to the iron. Having thinner solder helps here, too, because you can fed it without overloading the joint with solder. I use 0.6mm from Kester. Having the iron at 350c helps you get the temperature high enough to complete the joint before the heat conducts too far elsewhere, so I would say, yes, 350C is best. If I am desoldering some old equipment I go even higher because the joints are bulky, and the old solder seems to melt at a higher temp anyway. Once you have completed this project you will be an old guru anyway, it is just practice and a bit of a feel.
Is it true that I should ground myself before handling transistors, ICs and leds? Next thing I have to mount are two FET so I'm double checking. Are there other components that are static sensitive?
If I should ground myself, what about an electric cable from my ankle to a radiator? Or, is touching a radiator before handling the component enough? I've got a radiator close by and the pipes go under the floor.
Also, while I was waiting for the delivery of the new soldering station, I put the Unit 1 pcb with transistors and diode already mounted into a plastic bag to protect it from dust etc. Is that bad with regards to static electricity? Now I put it into a paper bag.
Thanks.
If I should ground myself, what about an electric cable from my ankle to a radiator? Or, is touching a radiator before handling the component enough? I've got a radiator close by and the pipes go under the floor.
Also, while I was waiting for the delivery of the new soldering station, I put the Unit 1 pcb with transistors and diode already mounted into a plastic bag to protect it from dust etc. Is that bad with regards to static electricity? Now I put it into a paper bag.
Thanks.
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Hello,
Anyone familiar with Weller WTCP-S soldering station with soldering iron TCP-S? I'm thinking about buying a second hand of these, european version, to finish the build of the elekit tu-8100. I'm having problems with what I'm using now and can't afford to spend more.
I read that with these you set the temperature by buying the right tip. There are 600 Fahrenheit tips, 700, 800, 900. The Weller tip series is the PT.
I have been soldering this pcb at 325 degree celsius. If I buy this Weller, what kind of tip should I use? 700 Fahrenheit is 370 celsius. Isn't it too hot for electronics? Is a 600 fahrenheit tip enough? It's about 315 celsius. What kind of shape should I choose? Anyone familiar with these PT tips? Could you suggest the right PT series tip for electronics?
Thanks in avance.
Anyone familiar with Weller WTCP-S soldering station with soldering iron TCP-S? I'm thinking about buying a second hand of these, european version, to finish the build of the elekit tu-8100. I'm having problems with what I'm using now and can't afford to spend more.
I read that with these you set the temperature by buying the right tip. There are 600 Fahrenheit tips, 700, 800, 900. The Weller tip series is the PT.
I have been soldering this pcb at 325 degree celsius. If I buy this Weller, what kind of tip should I use? 700 Fahrenheit is 370 celsius. Isn't it too hot for electronics? Is a 600 fahrenheit tip enough? It's about 315 celsius. What kind of shape should I choose? Anyone familiar with these PT tips? Could you suggest the right PT series tip for electronics?
Thanks in avance.
As mentioned above, soldering is a lot like robbing a bank. You want to be in and out as quick as possible to avoid any unexpected issues. 350C works fine for me with tag boards and through hole components.
I use a Weller WECP-20 which I bought second hand for around €50. Is there nothing like that advertised where you are? It is useful being able to crank up the heat a bit if you have something stubborn to desolder.
I use a Weller WECP-20 which I bought second hand for around €50. Is there nothing like that advertised where you are? It is useful being able to crank up the heat a bit if you have something stubborn to desolder.
Thanks. I had a look. The used WECP-20 are expensive.
I was checking if, buying a used WTCP-S and choosing the right PT series tip, I could finish this project. A used Weller WTCP-S is more affordable.
Has anyone here been using a Weller WTCP-S? Do you think it may work out for me? Could you please recommend a tip model for this soldering station and this kind of project?
I was checking if, buying a used WTCP-S and choosing the right PT series tip, I could finish this project. A used Weller WTCP-S is more affordable.
Has anyone here been using a Weller WTCP-S? Do you think it may work out for me? Could you please recommend a tip model for this soldering station and this kind of project?
Hello.
I finished assembling the Elekit TU-8100. I have been listening to it for about three weeks, with a couple of Triangle bookshelf speakers, 90db sensitivity.
Recently I started hearing a slight hiss or crackle on the left channel when I turn up or down the volume. It's like when you pass your hand on the fabric of your sweater. It happens occasionally, especially when the amplifier has been working for at least half an hour. Even without signal I can now hear a very, very slight hiss on the left speaker. When I listen to music there's nothing wrong with the sound, the sound level on the two channel is identical. I can hear that hiss occasionaly when I turn the volume up or down.
The audio comes from Amazon music, from my computer. It goes through a Fiio usb dac and from the usb dac to the line imput of the amplifier at the back. Just in case I tried changing the cable but when I turn the volume knob up or down, occasionally, the problem returns. It never does it after switching it on, always after a listening session.
Anyone familiar with the amplifier? What could it be?
Thanks in advance.
I finished assembling the Elekit TU-8100. I have been listening to it for about three weeks, with a couple of Triangle bookshelf speakers, 90db sensitivity.
Recently I started hearing a slight hiss or crackle on the left channel when I turn up or down the volume. It's like when you pass your hand on the fabric of your sweater. It happens occasionally, especially when the amplifier has been working for at least half an hour. Even without signal I can now hear a very, very slight hiss on the left speaker. When I listen to music there's nothing wrong with the sound, the sound level on the two channel is identical. I can hear that hiss occasionaly when I turn the volume up or down.
The audio comes from Amazon music, from my computer. It goes through a Fiio usb dac and from the usb dac to the line imput of the amplifier at the back. Just in case I tried changing the cable but when I turn the volume knob up or down, occasionally, the problem returns. It never does it after switching it on, always after a listening session.
Anyone familiar with the amplifier? What could it be?
Thanks in advance.
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