Erm, going to leave that to Carlos to answer....
There are actualy traces under the transistors though, and I suppose you could mount the outputs under the PCB, the holesd will at least be a good drilling guide...
There are actualy traces under the transistors though, and I suppose you could mount the outputs under the PCB, the holesd will at least be a good drilling guide...
Nordic, dear nephew, we have discussed that for long time
I hope you have understood and that we have agreement on that
The heatsink will be a "L" shape bracket.... aluminium in "L" shape that enter under the transistor...the aluminium goes between the board and will be also under the transistor.
Alike a Sandwich.... into the middle is the heatsink.
This makes the board to be fixed by the transistor screws..it is to he hold (held) by those transistor screws only.
the board may fly...nothing under...or, some metal rule will fill the gap between the transistor and the heatsink if this is the builder decision.
Nordic, there is a post into the middle point..between the power transistors...nothing can be there upper the board... that place will have the transistor.
Negative to mount the transistor under the board...if the builder wants to do this way.... no problem..but the amplifier is beeing made to use "L" aluminium.
Transistors under the board are not standard...i do not like them under...i feel them very ugly that way.
regards,
Carlos
I hope you have understood and that we have agreement on that
The heatsink will be a "L" shape bracket.... aluminium in "L" shape that enter under the transistor...the aluminium goes between the board and will be also under the transistor.
Alike a Sandwich.... into the middle is the heatsink.
This makes the board to be fixed by the transistor screws..it is to he hold (held) by those transistor screws only.
the board may fly...nothing under...or, some metal rule will fill the gap between the transistor and the heatsink if this is the builder decision.
Nordic, there is a post into the middle point..between the power transistors...nothing can be there upper the board... that place will have the transistor.
Negative to mount the transistor under the board...if the builder wants to do this way.... no problem..but the amplifier is beeing made to use "L" aluminium.
Transistors under the board are not standard...i do not like them under...i feel them very ugly that way.
regards,
Carlos
Attachments
Carlos and Nordic,
nice board.
I'm wondering where is the vbe multiplier?
are you using a separate board for the vbe?
regards,
nice board.
I'm wondering where is the vbe multiplier?
are you using a separate board for the vbe?
regards,
Hey Carlos, I know what you said.. and I made the boards like that...
People are just asking the same questions I did... Why add an L-Bar If you allready spend money on a heatsink...
It is fine for the cases you sent me pictures of, but such an unnessecary thing for other cases...
Nevertheless I don't feel like redoing it that way again...right away. So we stick with the way Carlos wants it... He da boss!
Yes there is a tiny seperate piece of board for the VBE now...
People are just asking the same questions I did... Why add an L-Bar If you allready spend money on a heatsink...
It is fine for the cases you sent me pictures of, but such an unnessecary thing for other cases...
Nevertheless I don't feel like redoing it that way again...right away. So we stick with the way Carlos wants it... He da boss!
Yes there is a tiny seperate piece of board for the VBE now...
Not really Nordic.... i thougth we could understand one each other
I see we could not.
Why this way?
Because you do not need to use insulators, plastic tubes, ceramic tubes or whatever you want, under the board, to attach it into the heatsink.... also, not doing that way....not installing board into the heatsink, say..over the heatsink, laying down over the heatsink flat surface (back the heatsink in the reality) you will not have the capacitances... the heatsink is ground.... a ground place, so..you have capacitances from many board points to that ground..the flat heatsink surface.
The other idea, the one i defend, the board goes aerial... and there are heatsinks into the shape needed to fit the board..or only in Australia?
Also, the transistors, under the board...or going down to attach the heatsink surface are a hell ugly... seems very amateur, and we are trying to make better, trying to develop better things..into a development moment.
To use into a flat heatsink, the one you have for instance...i have those ones too, you will need four screws, for spacer, insulators, plastic tubes or other material to attach the board over the heatsink...and more.... all the transistor bolts and nuts...when you can only have the transistor bolts and nuts to attach the whole thing.
Dx amplifier started this way.... the way the heatsink entered between the board and power transistor was that way.... the HRII i left you free do do whatever you wanted.... and you put the transistor in that way i do not like...fitted your heatsink, but did not have fitted my heart feelings about..was a baby that born with health problems in my heart.
I will make an sketch...but i really think i have problems to comunicate in English..can you help me Duda, to explain Nordic my ideas..i think he is not understanding.
regards,
Carlos
I see we could not.
Why this way?
Because you do not need to use insulators, plastic tubes, ceramic tubes or whatever you want, under the board, to attach it into the heatsink.... also, not doing that way....not installing board into the heatsink, say..over the heatsink, laying down over the heatsink flat surface (back the heatsink in the reality) you will not have the capacitances... the heatsink is ground.... a ground place, so..you have capacitances from many board points to that ground..the flat heatsink surface.
The other idea, the one i defend, the board goes aerial... and there are heatsinks into the shape needed to fit the board..or only in Australia?
Also, the transistors, under the board...or going down to attach the heatsink surface are a hell ugly... seems very amateur, and we are trying to make better, trying to develop better things..into a development moment.
To use into a flat heatsink, the one you have for instance...i have those ones too, you will need four screws, for spacer, insulators, plastic tubes or other material to attach the board over the heatsink...and more.... all the transistor bolts and nuts...when you can only have the transistor bolts and nuts to attach the whole thing.
Dx amplifier started this way.... the way the heatsink entered between the board and power transistor was that way.... the HRII i left you free do do whatever you wanted.... and you put the transistor in that way i do not like...fitted your heatsink, but did not have fitted my heart feelings about..was a baby that born with health problems in my heart.
I will make an sketch...but i really think i have problems to comunicate in English..can you help me Duda, to explain Nordic my ideas..i think he is not understanding.
regards,
Carlos
Attachments
This is what i want to avoid.
Not "da boss"... i do not like that "vision"...it is wrong.
The idea to attach the board, used by Aksa is much better.
Reason why i want to use it.
I would like to see forum voting.
I will accept if people prefer the other way...i will agree.
Not "da boss"..... better to say the one "wannabetter"
regards,
Carlos
....................................................................................................
Pôxa!...tou falando Japonês com o cara Duda?....me ajuda pelo amôr de Deus.... êle não me intende..incasquetou que o geito dêle é melhor, porque êle tem o dissipador desse geito e empacou....help!
My god!.... am i speaking japanese?... and with dear Nordic?...help me in the name of God DUDA, use a good english here and explain him my idea...the reasons....he cannot understand me.... he is fixed into his own idea he used into HRII and that fit his own heatsink in an easier way...this way things will not move!
Help Duda...use your English here, please....needing HELP!
regards,
Carlos
Not "da boss"... i do not like that "vision"...it is wrong.
The idea to attach the board, used by Aksa is much better.
Reason why i want to use it.
I would like to see forum voting.
I will accept if people prefer the other way...i will agree.
Not "da boss"..... better to say the one "wannabetter"
regards,
Carlos
....................................................................................................
Pôxa!...tou falando Japonês com o cara Duda?....me ajuda pelo amôr de Deus.... êle não me intende..incasquetou que o geito dêle é melhor, porque êle tem o dissipador desse geito e empacou....help!
My god!.... am i speaking japanese?... and with dear Nordic?...help me in the name of God DUDA, use a good english here and explain him my idea...the reasons....he cannot understand me.... he is fixed into his own idea he used into HRII and that fit his own heatsink in an easier way...this way things will not move!
Help Duda...use your English here, please....needing HELP!
regards,
Carlos
Attachments
Relax Carlos, we are making the boards the way you like....
I am still trying to get angle stock locally, amybe once I have found some, I can relax too... at the moment I am just stressed as I will not be able to test the boards before I can get metal brackets... even if my sinks were all I needed...
There is no disagreement... I see what you want, and hopefully did it that way....
My first designs just suited my materials availabe better.. I.e. I could visualise the whole process of assembling...
Now I have to find metal stock, cut it to size, tap holes to attach it to the sink, then tap holes to mount the transistors... same amount of work realy, it is just diffirent ways... it is probably all the same...
Do not get dissapointed because you can not seem to "convince" me, I am much more hard-headed than you. I have no problem in agreeing to disagree, and to give the other guy's point of view a try... I can always go back to my prefered methods if things don't work out, and on the other hand, maybe even learn new tricks...
I am still trying to get angle stock locally, amybe once I have found some, I can relax too... at the moment I am just stressed as I will not be able to test the boards before I can get metal brackets... even if my sinks were all I needed...
There is no disagreement... I see what you want, and hopefully did it that way....
My first designs just suited my materials availabe better.. I.e. I could visualise the whole process of assembling...
Now I have to find metal stock, cut it to size, tap holes to attach it to the sink, then tap holes to mount the transistors... same amount of work realy, it is just diffirent ways... it is probably all the same...
Do not get dissapointed because you can not seem to "convince" me, I am much more hard-headed than you. I have no problem in agreeing to disagree, and to give the other guy's point of view a try... I can always go back to my prefered methods if things don't work out, and on the other hand, maybe even learn new tricks...
There are hundred ways... i have just selected the one
I feel as better in how it looks, into technical details too.
I feel the solution used on Aksa the most intelligent idea.
I could not see any other one better, my point of view.
Yes, there are better saving space ideas..but this one has class..elegance.
But i am ready to accept forum opinnions.
Vote please!
regards,
Carlos
I feel as better in how it looks, into technical details too.
I feel the solution used on Aksa the most intelligent idea.
I could not see any other one better, my point of view.
Yes, there are better saving space ideas..but this one has class..elegance.
But i am ready to accept forum opinnions.
Vote please!
regards,
Carlos
Attachments
First vote Salesmonster... Aksa "L" bracket
Thank you,
regards,
Carlos
...............................................................................................
Discount to you into Precision II..ahahahahah!
Kidding folks..just kidding.
regards,
Carlos
Thank you,
regards,
Carlos
...............................................................................................
Discount to you into Precision II..ahahahahah!
Kidding folks..just kidding.
regards,
Carlos
Votes please folks...will do, gladly, what forum decide
The 10 first ones will decide.... if win different than my personal opinnion will not be angry.
I feel nervous is that i have discussed that with Nordic, and i felt he had understood my English... awfull when i see he had not understood...it is frustrating, we have spent a lot of time discussing that...sending images and text.
He is not convinced..so... a chance for dear nephew...forum can decide..than we gonna make smaller board, will cut the board excesses (parts used under transistor) and everybody will be happy... including me...because that darn stuff is delaying the board to be released, tested and ordered.
I believe, if Nordic ideas was winner...the forum folks will have the advantage to see that stuff ready.
I am ready to pay the price to see that darn stuff ready to go.
Dave Rice has voted...only 9 folks..do not be shy...i do not bite people (not always!)
Were is François?..he will vote for Nordic...come on François!
regards,
Carlos
The 10 first ones will decide.... if win different than my personal opinnion will not be angry.
I feel nervous is that i have discussed that with Nordic, and i felt he had understood my English... awfull when i see he had not understood...it is frustrating, we have spent a lot of time discussing that...sending images and text.
He is not convinced..so... a chance for dear nephew...forum can decide..than we gonna make smaller board, will cut the board excesses (parts used under transistor) and everybody will be happy... including me...because that darn stuff is delaying the board to be released, tested and ordered.
I believe, if Nordic ideas was winner...the forum folks will have the advantage to see that stuff ready.
I am ready to pay the price to see that darn stuff ready to go.
Dave Rice has voted...only 9 folks..do not be shy...i do not bite people (not always!)
Were is François?..he will vote for Nordic...come on François!
regards,
Carlos
Erskine's Implementation
It looks like Greg's solution was to use standard L-shaped stock (or he had a piece bent), and then married it to a flat surfaced heat sink.
Am I correct?
Also, if this is the case, can you just use the bare metal to metal contact, or just a WHOLE LOT of Thermal Compound for such a long connection.
I apologize in advance for such a basic question.
Dave
It looks like Greg's solution was to use standard L-shaped stock (or he had a piece bent), and then married it to a flat surfaced heat sink.
Am I correct?
Also, if this is the case, can you just use the bare metal to metal contact, or just a WHOLE LOT of Thermal Compound for such a long connection.
I apologize in advance for such a basic question.
Dave
You should never use a WHOLE LOT OF THERMAL PASTE EVER ANYWHERE!
Paste should be applied as thinly as possible, it is to fill microscopic (and larger) pits in the metal surface which otherwhise would be occopied by air, which is a thermal isolator (anti heatsink) The paste itself actualy does not have that good thermal transfer, just a hell of a lot better than air...
So idealy you wnat two perfectly flat polished surafaces meeting each other...
A good way of lapping (to sand surface flat), is to take some glue (I use common cold wood glue, even used Pritt) apply to the back of a sheet of sanding paper (I have gone up to 1500grit for my computer's processor) glue the sheet to a flat piece of glass (easy to remove afterwards... I just use a mirror) now you have a flat surface to sand your block, chips, transistors, etc. on
Whith the flat surfaces you then want to apply an almost seethrough thin layer of thermal paste... (which is not so easy with the white goop sold for electronics... But I reccon a tube of artic silver will probably be enough for the amp, if you want to use something a little better for a fiver.
Paste should be applied as thinly as possible, it is to fill microscopic (and larger) pits in the metal surface which otherwhise would be occopied by air, which is a thermal isolator (anti heatsink) The paste itself actualy does not have that good thermal transfer, just a hell of a lot better than air...
So idealy you wnat two perfectly flat polished surafaces meeting each other...
A good way of lapping (to sand surface flat), is to take some glue (I use common cold wood glue, even used Pritt) apply to the back of a sheet of sanding paper (I have gone up to 1500grit for my computer's processor) glue the sheet to a flat piece of glass (easy to remove afterwards... I just use a mirror) now you have a flat surface to sand your block, chips, transistors, etc. on
Whith the flat surfaces you then want to apply an almost seethrough thin layer of thermal paste... (which is not so easy with the white goop sold for electronics... But I reccon a tube of artic silver will probably be enough for the amp, if you want to use something a little better for a fiver.
Re: Erskine's Implementation
I don't think so. There are a few electronics sellers here in Australia that sell a 300mm heatsink which looks like the one in the picture and contains a 'shelf' at right angles.
See www.altronics.com.au for example.
Cheers
Stuey
salesmonster said:
I don't think so. There are a few electronics sellers here in Australia that sell a 300mm heatsink which looks like the one in the picture and contains a 'shelf' at right angles.
See www.altronics.com.au for example.
Cheers
Stuey
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