@teamacc
I can sell you 2 DX Blame AMP PCBs, but sorry: I do not have any more PSU- or LSProtect - PCBs left.
Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos
I can sell you 2 DX Blame AMP PCBs, but sorry: I do not have any more PSU- or LSProtect - PCBs left.
Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos
Dear DX Blame friends,
I am sorry to tell you that I do not more have any PCBs left.
They are all sold.
Do not order any more.
You can imagine that the last 2 weeks have been very tough for me: keeping track of your orders, your money transfers
(I hope my book-keeping is up to date), answering all your questions, ...
Now I have the time (the PCBs will be etched on September 18th - then I will have some "busy" days again preparing the letters
and send them to you) needed to write the "DX Blame Instruction Manual" and to do some DIY'ing myself.
Those of you who have come too late to this first round in the group-buy shall not be sad.
I will start a second round in November.
You have the chance to read about the experiences of the 1st round DIYers.
I hope that some of these will post their experiences in the
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...st-pictures-reviews-comments-here-please.html
Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos
I am sorry to tell you that I do not more have any PCBs left.
They are all sold.
Do not order any more.
You can imagine that the last 2 weeks have been very tough for me: keeping track of your orders, your money transfers
(I hope my book-keeping is up to date), answering all your questions, ...
Now I have the time (the PCBs will be etched on September 18th - then I will have some "busy" days again preparing the letters
and send them to you) needed to write the "DX Blame Instruction Manual" and to do some DIY'ing myself.
Those of you who have come too late to this first round in the group-buy shall not be sad.
I will start a second round in November.
You have the chance to read about the experiences of the 1st round DIYers.
I hope that some of these will post their experiences in the
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...st-pictures-reviews-comments-here-please.html
Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos
Hello Par, Steve,
I received your PAYPAL transfer: thank you very much.
We have still to wait several days until the PCBs will be etched.
Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos
I received your PAYPAL transfer: thank you very much.
We have still to wait several days until the PCBs will be etched.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos
Not yet, Toufu!
How did you transfer the money? Via PAYPAL (then I should have received it already) or via bank transfer (this will take several days!).
Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos
P.S. Do not worry! You are in for 1 pair of the beautiful DX Blame PCBs.
How did you transfer the money? Via PAYPAL (then I should have received it already) or via bank transfer (this will take several days!).
Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos
P.S. Do not worry! You are in for 1 pair of the beautiful DX Blame PCBs.
Sorry, Rudi, but I must not have hit the confirm button or something, money just sent via paypal. Thanks.
Hello Toufou,
I received your money transfer.
Thank you very much.
I do not have a heatsink - calculator! Carlos has one! He can (will) tell you.
Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos
I received your money transfer.
Thank you very much.
I do not have a heatsink - calculator! Carlos has one! He can (will) tell you.
Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos
thanks for letting me know that it came through rudi! i had a lot of worries about getting the money to you, its great that paypal worked out in the end.
par
par
An aluminium blade, measuring 10 by 10 centimeters, so squared....
.... measuring 4 inches each side... thickness around 2 milimeters... will be able to dissipate a 10 watt amplifier, producing undistorted continuous sinusoidal sign into a 30 degrees environment...and may increase the temperature to 40 degrees celsius.
So..this is linear.... 10 blades or fins will be able to dissipate the heat generated by a 100 watts amplifier (our case at 4 ohms)
So, take your heatsink, or the one you want to evaluate... multiply each fin side by side..... (take area exposed to the air for ONE FACE ONLY)... accumulate, or add all these numbers..or multiply a fin area by the number of fins... then add the base side multiplied by the heigth...the base where the fins are fixed.
So... each 100 squared centimeters will be equivalent to 10 watts.
You need 1000 square centimeters to 100 watts amplifiers.
This is for continuous sinusoidal, full power, undistorted signal, 100 watts output power...good forf 30 degrees environment.... in our case, good for ONE CHANNEL only.
As music is average..then it may work cool when playing songs...if you play average alike most of us, then you can use a single heatsing, sized to 100 watts of audio, and install there TWO channels.
If you use full power, alike a synthetizer, an organ, a Hammond organ or something alike...if you gonna face microphonic feedback, alive music, guitar or something that have continuous steady tones..then you should use two 1000 squared centimeter heatsink to each one of your channels.
I hope not too much confused..this depends your temperature..your home temperature, also the absence of Fan blower.... heatsink must be external and not obstructed, must have distance from the supporting table, also space behing and not obstructed over or atop of the heatsink to allow convection air current to flow... the hot air goes up and sucks cool air from below the set.
About degrees/watt or something alike..sorry...i know anything about that..i have just tested that 10 watts amplifier, full power, undistorted, and continuous where cooled by a 10 by 10 centimeters blade..and this is linear.
I used to learn things doing.... making experimentation, to install a blade and to put 10 watts over it..audio watts...rms watts..continuous watts....and i turn happy when i read from Albert Einstein.
- "Curiosity results better than knowledge"
Good luck,
regards,
Carlos
.... measuring 4 inches each side... thickness around 2 milimeters... will be able to dissipate a 10 watt amplifier, producing undistorted continuous sinusoidal sign into a 30 degrees environment...and may increase the temperature to 40 degrees celsius.
So..this is linear.... 10 blades or fins will be able to dissipate the heat generated by a 100 watts amplifier (our case at 4 ohms)
So, take your heatsink, or the one you want to evaluate... multiply each fin side by side..... (take area exposed to the air for ONE FACE ONLY)... accumulate, or add all these numbers..or multiply a fin area by the number of fins... then add the base side multiplied by the heigth...the base where the fins are fixed.
So... each 100 squared centimeters will be equivalent to 10 watts.
You need 1000 square centimeters to 100 watts amplifiers.
This is for continuous sinusoidal, full power, undistorted signal, 100 watts output power...good forf 30 degrees environment.... in our case, good for ONE CHANNEL only.
As music is average..then it may work cool when playing songs...if you play average alike most of us, then you can use a single heatsing, sized to 100 watts of audio, and install there TWO channels.
If you use full power, alike a synthetizer, an organ, a Hammond organ or something alike...if you gonna face microphonic feedback, alive music, guitar or something that have continuous steady tones..then you should use two 1000 squared centimeter heatsink to each one of your channels.
I hope not too much confused..this depends your temperature..your home temperature, also the absence of Fan blower.... heatsink must be external and not obstructed, must have distance from the supporting table, also space behing and not obstructed over or atop of the heatsink to allow convection air current to flow... the hot air goes up and sucks cool air from below the set.
About degrees/watt or something alike..sorry...i know anything about that..i have just tested that 10 watts amplifier, full power, undistorted, and continuous where cooled by a 10 by 10 centimeters blade..and this is linear.
I used to learn things doing.... making experimentation, to install a blade and to put 10 watts over it..audio watts...rms watts..continuous watts....and i turn happy when i read from Albert Einstein.
- "Curiosity results better than knowledge"
Good luck,
regards,
Carlos
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My experience, Toufu,
A heatsink like this: 150 x 100 x 40mm, base plate thickness: 4mm will do it.
Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
A heatsink like this: 150 x 100 x 40mm, base plate thickness: 4mm will do it.
Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos
Excellent dear Rudi..real examples are much better than calculation
This way the guy will evaluate fast the size watching.
Gooooooood!
regards,
Carlos
This way the guy will evaluate fast the size watching.
Gooooooood!
regards,
Carlos
Teamacc, all those modern ones will fit... we have tested
with many types, and worked fine with all them..you can see in Rudi's picture the most famous Sanken models, but there are others, even better and more modern that will fit.... there are also stronger models in Sanken line.
The standard is 2SC5200 and 2SA1943, but you can use the former toshiba best audio transistors too, the MJL3281A and MJL1302A.... and formerly was indicates as 2SC........ also you can use the nice ones, my prefered ones, MJL4281A and MJL4302A..... also i am using in some amplifiers the FJL4315 and FJL4215.
Well, there are many units that will fit...you need transistors able to face 70 volts from colector to emitter, and these ones can face 150 volts, some can face 350 volts.....you will need trasistors able to face 5 amperes..these ones can face 10, 15 amperes and more...you need transistors that can reproduce 30 megahertz....these ones can do it, even you will not use them at this frequency...you need units with more than 30 of gain...all these ones can have 100 of gain in low current and more...all then can have 30 of gain or more under high current... also you need audio power transistors..all these ones are power transistors for audio..so...it is your choice, it is up to you.
The power each transistor will manage is less than 100 watts, and all them can manage that.
If you wanna a model, then search MJL4281A and MJL4302A...not finding, then select others.
They do not sound, they have not personality, also not goodwill or badwill...they just transfere resistances..they do the work and does not sound.....so, differences are, but hard to listen... also you can compensate the small differences in your speaker and tone controls.... differences are very small, almost inaudible.
regards,
Carlos
with many types, and worked fine with all them..you can see in Rudi's picture the most famous Sanken models, but there are others, even better and more modern that will fit.... there are also stronger models in Sanken line.
The standard is 2SC5200 and 2SA1943, but you can use the former toshiba best audio transistors too, the MJL3281A and MJL1302A.... and formerly was indicates as 2SC........ also you can use the nice ones, my prefered ones, MJL4281A and MJL4302A..... also i am using in some amplifiers the FJL4315 and FJL4215.
Well, there are many units that will fit...you need transistors able to face 70 volts from colector to emitter, and these ones can face 150 volts, some can face 350 volts.....you will need trasistors able to face 5 amperes..these ones can face 10, 15 amperes and more...you need transistors that can reproduce 30 megahertz....these ones can do it, even you will not use them at this frequency...you need units with more than 30 of gain...all these ones can have 100 of gain in low current and more...all then can have 30 of gain or more under high current... also you need audio power transistors..all these ones are power transistors for audio..so...it is your choice, it is up to you.
The power each transistor will manage is less than 100 watts, and all them can manage that.
If you wanna a model, then search MJL4281A and MJL4302A...not finding, then select others.
They do not sound, they have not personality, also not goodwill or badwill...they just transfere resistances..they do the work and does not sound.....so, differences are, but hard to listen... also you can compensate the small differences in your speaker and tone controls.... differences are very small, almost inaudible.
regards,
Carlos
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