Dx Blame ES .... based into the Blameless, i am trying a new amplifier

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Now its working fine :))

a little bit mV are in offset, 14 one side, 3 the other...
And, out of the box, there is a very nice sound, i´m very happy...
The Sankens are cold, after 30 Min Mozart......*g*

later more....now i must lissen !!
 

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No problems with off set bellow 25 milivolts..even 25 milivolts represents

less than a hundred microwatts..nothing to worry about..differences are normal as you know, depends on parts matching, not only active but also some passive too.

Enjoy, sounds very good and you can increase volume and the audio source level and will be surprised.

Thank you by the pictures and congratulations by your construction, very nice work you have done.

Brazilian people are bothering me a lot asking this board...i told them i cannot give this board, not only because not mine, but also because has not an owner, there's a contribution of several friends..one made the board (Rudi) other made the delayed insertion, other made the protection... and so on.

regards,

Carlos
 
@ Carlos....
hey, you have done a realy good work with this amplifer....it´s playing better and better, houer by houer.. and i have made only minimal basic settings, there is a great potential waiting for me :)
But ceep in mind, at last, this amplifer must do his work for testing with B&W N801, then we will hear the truth....but i´m not angry, i think the blame will do it without any stress :)
i love this amp, after 4 houers!!! realy very great!!!!
 
Thank you very much

I am glad you have appreciated the amplifier... i know Germans are very demanding...so, your evaluation deeply interests me.

Well, this amplifier plays lovely with my B&W speakers (Bull s--- and Waste) speaker... mine ones is that way.... of course will be good with your real units... excelent speaker, with world fame of highest quality.

My people felt your construction wonderfull.... having time produce more pictures.... your amplifier is looking great.

regards,

Gutten nacht

Carl
 
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Give a try on it dear Bigun, distorts almost nothing, crystal clear reproduction

nice voices and nice bass... dinamics is excelent, works cool, power is something that surprised me.

Doctor Self did a perfect job with this input, the current selection was perfect..higher current than average, people usually select less current to the differential.....and the emitter follower, the bootstrapp...all these things together produced a miraculous marriage of nice things.... a milestone that is transforming some recordings i had into high end musical art pieces.

Works cool....i know your weather now a days is cold enougth to appreciate class A, but really, you gonna have hot weather in a matter of monthes...then class A will lost all that winter value.

Room shacking power..it is impressive.... you go increasing, and increasing volume, and increasing and you will feel astonished..the lovely machine does not distort...then you increase your source volume...and nothing..then you reduce the gain resistance value...the machine plays loud and louder and do not distort.... i would like to understand why this thing does not distort..it is hard to make it distort, i had to increase bass in two equalizers, i made that in series...maybe 15 plus 15 decibels to have it distorting.... and was not that awfull noisy distortion... was alike soft clipping.... very interesting...one day i will understand how this happens.

Symassym can beat it in dinamics....but was smashed too.... only dinamics i fell Symassym even better... this one makes you drop out from the chair so surprised you gonna be with dinamics too...but Symassym is the dinamics champion (the Michael Bittner original version).... then people started to "paint moustaches" in Gioconda that i give up to read the thread.... i do not like variations around the same theme..despite this one is also a variation that resulted great...maybe some of these symassym variations may be great too...well... i have not tried to say.

Has a problem on it....made me frustrated with my other amplifiers....also i am thinking to substitute all them by this new one.... it is heart breaking to my old toys.... also i have lost, totally and absolutelly, the interest to try other amplifiers.

If you decide to build, i ensure you will not regret if you want clear sonics, but try not to change any part value... resulted so good that must be untouched, alike Da Vinci Art work.

You can reduce the input condenser, i have tried 4uf and resulted fine too, losses goes subsonic frequencies, bellow 10 hertz..we do not listen..but we feel a little as room vibrations changes a little... these subsonics we feel, we do not listen..we feel them in our leg's hairs, down the belly and vibrations in our chairs.

Thanks to Douglas Self...observe the input, it is copy from Blameless...exactly the same, even the resistance values.... absolutelly the same he did.... i have tried the Blameless years ago and i found it awfull..do not know what happened....maybe a mistake.... i think i have made something wrong...or the CCS used to feed the VAS...i felt awfull and stérile in the past... surprise to me... a wonderfull surprise.... sounds so good that i will be surprise if, one day, an amplifier beat this one.

Germans are building..they will have meetings..they will test...they will evaluate....you know they are demanding, their group is a high end group, speakers there are the best ones (Besten)... we know they use to be pionner in science since WWII, and even during the war they had top scientists...there's a lot of audiomaniac there...they will test..... if result incredible, excepcional, astounding, wonderfull and marvellous...they will say.

"good sound"..ahahahahahah!..... but this means all the words written above.

The art work, Taj art work is lovely too... this is an excellent presentation to the amplifier.

regards,

Carlos
 
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Good Meanman.... will you etch board at home?

My supply is 42 volts unloaded... my output is 27 volts RMS over 8 ohms, 20 thousand plus 20 thousand microfarads condensers to a single channel.

Noise during power on is very small, not a thump, but a Tic.... rail diodes does no let board condensers discharge fast, so, you will feel that when you swich power off with audio signal entering...with the values suggested, power off, while condensers are discharging, is also nice.

Square wave, full power, 10 Kilohertz is very good... 20 kilohertz is reasonable, THD depends some part's values, even stop resistances affects, can drop to 0.0018%....normally does not result bigger than 0.002%...input sensitivity was adjusted to 700 milivolts rms, but you can reduce R7 (470 ohms) to lower values, this way your sensitivity will increase...i have tested till 180 ohms and found the amplifier fine this way.... bias trimpot pre setting resulted around 280 in my amplifiers, because using 42 volts....my current at the power emitters is around 5 miliamperes, and this corresponds to 1 milivolt drop over 0.22 ohms resistance...of set will depends on your differential transistors (mainly).. and one amplifier measured 3 milivolts, the second measure 13 milivolts and the third measured 10 milivolts...i had not the need to use 1K or 1K2 or 1K5 in parallel with R9 to reduce off set...less than 25 milivolts is fine (less than 100 microwatts)... a sinusoidal signal entering, frequency of 60 kilohertz, results in triangle (almost) in the output...this is because C25 (470 pF).... reducing you can go to 130 megahertz, but your amplifier will loose stability and can oscilate.... input impedance is around 15K... my resistances are absolutelly the same values shown in the schematic diagram.

I am using FJL4215 and FLJ4315 in the output, gain is 100, and they are matched...my BD139/140 are matched, and they measured 200 of gain...my BC556 are gain 300... resistances are small, 1/4 watt, exception are R20 and R28.... i am using 5 watts, but i think smaller will be good too.....R28 will operate only if oscilate.... as this does not happens, is doing nothing.... R29 will share current with L1, but L1 resistance is smaller, so, will not need to be too much big too.

C18 is 220n.... or 0.22uF, despite part list says different compared to the schematic....not a big problem if use 2.2uF....just more noise during power on.

Do not increase C10 or C7, i have tried, sound lost focus.... big loss of resolution and details.... reduction of R26 is positive, even removal is fine (using wire jumper in place)..but please, do not increase it.

regards,

Carlos
 
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R3 is marked in the schematic as 0.5W, increase it if you can..the biggest the better

I am using 1/4 watt, but i am taking to myself the risk.

Do not use diodes to protect, they detect radio frequency,...or, if you want to use them, install 1n with them, to reduce their effectivity as Radio Frequency Detectors.

I am using heatsink, including to the VAS.... also for drivers naturally, they work cold, almost body temperature and i hope they will remains this way (sligthly higher, maybe 38 degrees celsius).... transistors remains cold in stand by mode....if different than that, for sure you have problems..maybe you forgot to run a wire from the power transformer center tape to the heatsink.... chassis must be grounded this way.

Transistors VBE voltage use to be around 600 milivolts to the input ones... less than that to the first and second VAS and the power output ones are usually 530 milivolts, depends your bias adjustment....i use to adjust as final fine tuning, to read 575 milivolts.... distortion reading depends on that when simulating, also listening you perceive soft sound when you go to 575 milivolts..... 520mV has a little "grainny" treble.

This amplifier is electrically flat.... simulator shows flat too, but acoustically it is not, there are some losses in the low end... acoustically, perceived, you will feel it a little bit shy or weak at bass.... adjust your equalizer when your volume is low...increasing your volume it becames flat..maybe my huge speaker sensitivity is doing that.

My speaker is using capacitors only to the super tweeter, a Bravox Professional high power unit..they suggest me 4.7uf...i found better to use 2.2uf....my midrange is also professional unit, and they asked me to use 15uf, i am using 10uf...the woofer is receiving the signal directly after cross a 10 amps fuse.... i have used a resistance in series with the midrange, because my home acoustics..i have used a software connected to my PC, a microphone captured my speaker sound and white noise was reproduced and captured by the microphone, i found my speaker reasonable, not flat, as no one is flat, but not too much unflat too.

Prepare your heart for strong emotions, the amplifier is almost flat, the most superior and best amplifier i have ever listened, can beat all my amplifiers and all i could ever listen... the best, without doubts, world wide audio power amplifier..with clear, huge advantage compared to others.

regards,

Carlos
 
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My speakers are fine, they are the ones i could afford... my woofer is

not that special, because this cost a lot here.... i cannot buy a Bravox subwoofer because price is too high for our standards, it is sold in USA by a very good price, we have not that good price because our standards, our average income is smaller than US income.

But even this way i am having a good speaker that can reproduce a very clear 25 hertz with 1 watt entering and drivers are professional ones.

See the pictures...i have used a software to check if they are flat.

regards,

Carlos
 

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I am using 1/4 watt, but i am taking to myself the risk.

Do not use diodes to protect, they detect radio frequency,...or, if you want to use them, install 1n with them, to reduce their effectivity as Radio Frequency Detectors.

I am using heatsink, including to the VAS.... also for drivers naturally, they work cold, almost body temperature and i hope they will remains this way (sligthly higher, maybe 38 degrees celsius).... transistors remains cold in stand by mode....if different than that, for sure you have problems..maybe you forgot to run a wire from the power transformer center tape to the heatsink.... chassis must be grounded this way.

Transistors VBE voltage use to be around 600 milivolts to the input ones... less than that to the first and second VAS and the power output ones are usually 530 milivolts, depends your bias adjustment....i use to adjust as final fine tuning, to read 575 milivolts.... distortion reading depends on that when simulating, also listening you perceive soft sound when you go to 575 milivolts..... 520mV has a little "grainny" treble.

This amplifier is electrically flat.... simulator shows flat too, but acoustically it is not, there are some losses in the low end... acoustically, perceived, you will feel it a little bit shy or weak at bass.... adjust your equalizer when your volume is low...increasing your volume it becames flat..maybe my huge speaker sensitivity is doing that.

My speaker is using capacitors only to the super tweeter, a Bravox Professional high power unit..they suggest me 4.7uf...i found better to use 2.2uf....my midrange is also professional unit, and they asked me to use 15uf, i am using 10uf...the woofer is receiving the signal directly after cross a 10 amps fuse.... i have used a resistance in series with the midrange, because my home acoustics..i have used a software connected to my PC, a microphone captured my speaker sound and white noise was reproduced and captured by the microphone, i found my speaker reasonable, not flat, as no one is flat, but not too much unflat too.

Prepare your heart for strong emotions, the amplifier is almost flat, the most superior and best amplifier i have ever listened, can beat all my amplifiers and all i could ever listen... the best, without doubts, world wide audio power amplifier..with clear, huge advantage compared to others.

regards,

Carlos

Someone in Holland is etching my boards.I'm planning to use bleeder resistors in the power supply caps.For the 100n and 47n capacitors i gonna use Wima mkp or wich one could I use?Attached a pic of the housing.Picture taking together with the HRII boards.
 

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