Well here I am in a similar pickle. I disassembled my 701 to clean and lubricate the motor shaft and bearings on the sub platter.
When I re-assembled, the turntable is now in a constant return cycle (the cam gear keeps turning). Also the tonearm is not moving correctly at all.
I was pretty careful, and I'm confident that I have the ball bearing back in place correctly - and that the cam follower is in the right place. I don't know what is wrong. I have stared at the mechanism and looked at my photos and read other posts here. If any of you guys have any suggestions I am all ears.
I am pretty fustrated at the moment. Many thanks.
When I re-assembled, the turntable is now in a constant return cycle (the cam gear keeps turning). Also the tonearm is not moving correctly at all.
I was pretty careful, and I'm confident that I have the ball bearing back in place correctly - and that the cam follower is in the right place. I don't know what is wrong. I have stared at the mechanism and looked at my photos and read other posts here. If any of you guys have any suggestions I am all ears.
I am pretty fustrated at the moment. Many thanks.
I got it. The tang end of one of the levers was hung up - almost like as shown in this photo from earlier in the thread.
Oh man.. I played one side of an LP. At the end, it properly cycled off - but when the tonearm set back down on the rest, it began lifting up and setting back down repeatedly. Now it is just doing that in a non-ending loop.
So something must be out of place in the linkage I'm thinking at the cam gear.
I hope to be able to take a look at this later today. So frustrating!
So something must be out of place in the linkage I'm thinking at the cam gear.
I hope to be able to take a look at this later today. So frustrating!
My first piece of advice is not to get too frustrated otherwise you lose the ability to think and act rationally.
The second thing that comes to mind is that little metal ball that the OP lost (if I remember correctly), and may have done the same there.
Look carefully at the photos because they seem to highlight just what (and how) is needed.
The second thing that comes to mind is that little metal ball that the OP lost (if I remember correctly), and may have done the same there.
Look carefully at the photos because they seem to highlight just what (and how) is needed.
Yes, but there are good designs and not so good ones. Dual was always prone to complex mechanisms to achieve the same as other brands but with fewer parts.
I was way ahead of you ulogon. I took a couple of days of not looking at this at all.
Now I am ready to take another stab at it. I'm pretty sure the ball bearing is correct. But I can't say with 100% certainty.
I am a little suspicious of that tiny little spring - I may not have it attached correctly. But I don't find a good illustration of how it should be.
Anyway this is what mine is currently doing (video link below):
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/y6wp...ey=nh8im2q7yotl9pw3734g3h000&st=nzufrvjg&dl=0
In my opinion the following pics are clear "enough", especially considering the TT is open under your eyes. 😉
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/attachments/sshot-png.1293429/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/attachments/sshot-png.1293438/
Was away for a while, and now back at this problem child.
It seems like I managed to get this little "trigger" arm under the timing wheel bended, and I can't find out how it was supposed to look like
Does anyone have a picture of how this small copper pin is bended?
Thanks in advance 🙂
It seems like I managed to get this little "trigger" arm under the timing wheel bended, and I can't find out how it was supposed to look like
Does anyone have a picture of how this small copper pin is bended?
Thanks in advance 🙂
I almost forgot: I suggest you read the thread (in German) I linked as I think I understood that a procedure is described in order to avoid deforming that bracket again. 😉
Thanks to all. Now automatic seems to work with a new copper friction plate, but now I have this problem;
When using arm lift, the arm raises to desired height with a little headroom/slack above.
When automatic raises the arm, the arm is pressed all the way to max, creating a lot of friction? The lever arm controlled by the cam wheel is adjusted, so it's just lifts the control stud (steuer pimpel) 1 mm. Picture below shows the arm, when it's pressed all the way up by automatic.
Any ideas?
When using arm lift, the arm raises to desired height with a little headroom/slack above.
Any ideas?
Hi All. The never endning story continues......
Got almost everything adjusted and working (after changing a broken pos. 61 (part no. 218 318) "Positioning sleeve" which caused the tonoarm to lift to absolute maximum creating huge amount of resistance during automatic tonearm movements). Fixed now!
However the small ball pos. 165 keeps faling out of the groove of the "Shut-off slide" pos.164 when turntable is tilted heavily. I know this kind of tilt is NOT practice during normal use, however it could happen during transport! I see no way how to ensure the ball stays in place without bending the Shut-off slide out of shape??? Any good ideas?
Got almost everything adjusted and working (after changing a broken pos. 61 (part no. 218 318) "Positioning sleeve" which caused the tonoarm to lift to absolute maximum creating huge amount of resistance during automatic tonearm movements). Fixed now!
However the small ball pos. 165 keeps faling out of the groove of the "Shut-off slide" pos.164 when turntable is tilted heavily. I know this kind of tilt is NOT practice during normal use, however it could happen during transport! I see no way how to ensure the ball stays in place without bending the Shut-off slide out of shape??? Any good ideas?
scoostraw; Yes exactly
It seem like the Shut-off slide" pos.164 has to much slope, so the ball can jump out of the grove it's rolling in?
It seem like the Shut-off slide" pos.164 has to much slope, so the ball can jump out of the grove it's rolling in?