Because of processing with high slopes you will have some small spikes in signal. You can try to post gain but on some material it will fire clipping notification.
@fluid: then the question is, why there are two gains at all: if we are only allowed to diminuish, this could be done with pre-gain alone.....😕
@shining31: maybe minidsp has an advantage (only this one!🙂): there might be enough headroom for processing.
But: what is enough? - Noone knows, how much gain the user wants for his deep bass frequencies. So, giving responsibility to the user might not even be a disadvantage.
@shining31: maybe minidsp has an advantage (only this one!🙂): there might be enough headroom for processing.
But: what is enough? - Noone knows, how much gain the user wants for his deep bass frequencies. So, giving responsibility to the user might not even be a disadvantage.
If by advantage you mean "dumber", then yes. Such is the risk of putting out a product with many tweakabilities and flexibilities: not everyone (i.e., very few) will appreciate it all. However, Nick's caveat still applies to miniDSP. Gain staging is simply about using the available dynamic range to maximum benefit. Nick was mindful to include physical LED indicators as well as graphical indicators in NUC to alert the user to clipping.
Maybe to cater for the situation for when the input signal is too low coming in to the Najda. Lots of effects channels have "make up gain" settings. Najda is different in architecture than some other DSP processors and it clips hard so care is needed, the last part you know already.
If the signal is represented as a floating point number in the DSP the headroom is effectively unlimited for audio purposes. If / when it is converted back to integer as it must the gain will have to be reduced to avoid clipping.
@shaun: you did not quote to the end: I think we share a similar opinion about miniDSP, but I expressed it a bit "milder".😉
@fluid: O. K., I was just wondering, but I live with this for years and will continue. It´s not a real problem.
@fluid: O. K., I was just wondering, but I live with this for years and will continue. It´s not a real problem.
I accidentally removed of the opamps while the najda unit was still powered on.
Now the unit still powers on but the volume control is no longer working. The output is distorted but can still hear the music pass through but with constant pops every couple of seconds. Adjusting the volume doesnt change the actual outputted volume.
Ive confirmed its not the opamps being the issue. Im suspecting it is just the cs3318 chip (and nothing else). Is there a way i can confirm this? Annoyed with myself for being careless! 😓
Thanks in advance.
Now the unit still powers on but the volume control is no longer working. The output is distorted but can still hear the music pass through but with constant pops every couple of seconds. Adjusting the volume doesnt change the actual outputted volume.
Ive confirmed its not the opamps being the issue. Im suspecting it is just the cs3318 chip (and nothing else). Is there a way i can confirm this? Annoyed with myself for being careless! 😓
Thanks in advance.
If you have the capability, you could probe the input (individually) of the volume control chip. If the signal reaches there intact, you'll know the problem lies downstream. Inserting or removing a component while live can cause damage. In this case, the op amps are powered from a higher voltage than the digital chips. The act of removing an op amp under power can result in an arbitrarily harmful voltage being fed to the neighbouring circuitry.
I've got a Najda board that half powers up.
The 5v polarity was switched inadvertently [emoji30]
Perhaps one good board could be made out of them both?
I have a new board and a spare one in case that dies [emoji6]
Did the same with 12V some time ago. Only inductor close to connector broke (it's kind of fail safe/fuse). I have replaced it and board worked fine.
Check one from the attachment.
Info from charpaK recieved then
"This small inductor is rated for roughly 0.4 A and will fry if the current exceeds that value - typically a short circuit - so it acts also as a fuse.
Not a big problem! Replacing that part will fix the issue."
This is one I have used as replacement
LQH43MN220K03L MURATA
Inductor: wire; SMD; 1812; 22uH; 320mA; 0.94Ω; ±10%; 4.5x3.2x2.6mm
Attachments
Last edited:
I had the same problem. I also changed the inductance (same reference) which had completely melted.
nounouchet
nounouchet
seems I am not alone [emoji1787]
The original red pcb actually had the + mark on the 5v input rather misleadingly marked.
I was ultra careful at first build.
Years later I forgot..
With guidance from Nick, following his instructions, a few years back, I bridged the inductor.
Reporting back on what I saw on the display etc, he told me there was more damage further up. Hence my getting a new board and later on buying in a spare unit.
Micro/surface mounted electronics is definitely NOT my area of expertise - can't even get the f'ing V polarity right, dooh![emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]
The original red pcb actually had the + mark on the 5v input rather misleadingly marked.
I was ultra careful at first build.
Years later I forgot..
With guidance from Nick, following his instructions, a few years back, I bridged the inductor.
Reporting back on what I saw on the display etc, he told me there was more damage further up. Hence my getting a new board and later on buying in a spare unit.
Micro/surface mounted electronics is definitely NOT my area of expertise - can't even get the f'ing V polarity right, dooh![emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]
Don't think I've mentioned it on here yet;
I am using I2S input to Najda with very short leads.
I recently read up about I2S on this forum on other threads.
That it's more a RF transmission than regular electrical.
They discussed the importance of not soldering but using crimped connections - an impedance thing.
Also having the earths closely adjacent to the Clock, Data and Frame sync.
I made these changes and it unleashed a new sound quality from Qobuz / Volumio / RPI / Kali reclocker -> Najda.
I am using I2S input to Najda with very short leads.
I recently read up about I2S on this forum on other threads.
That it's more a RF transmission than regular electrical.
They discussed the importance of not soldering but using crimped connections - an impedance thing.
Also having the earths closely adjacent to the Clock, Data and Frame sync.
I made these changes and it unleashed a new sound quality from Qobuz / Volumio / RPI / Kali reclocker -> Najda.
Analogue in defect
Hi all,
my analogue in is exclusively used for measuring. The measuring signal is always the same at the same level. (Test after defect: signal is still the same, no defect on that side)
Suddenly during measuring the red "AD CLIP" LED turned on, speaker sounding like a loud tone at about 2000 Hz. Turned Najda off, pulled off the RCAs from analogue in, turned Najda on again, switched to digital in - red LED stayed on while music plays through digital in without problem.
Changed opamps from analogue in to channel 7/8 and channel 5/6, channel 8 is dead. New try, same as above, again one channel of the next opamp is defect, red LED stays on until opamps are retracted.
Is there any possibility to repair the analogue in? - I must admit that I have no idea what kills the Opamps. But most important is, that no other parts of Najda are affected or can still be affected (??) by this, because otherwise I can live with the three digital ins and buy an analogue to digital converter for my measuring system (or change to REW...🙂). But it´s still regrettable and I am sad for my well doing Najda!
Maybe someone with more electronic skills than mine can give a comment or answer...?
Hi all,
my analogue in is exclusively used for measuring. The measuring signal is always the same at the same level. (Test after defect: signal is still the same, no defect on that side)
Suddenly during measuring the red "AD CLIP" LED turned on, speaker sounding like a loud tone at about 2000 Hz. Turned Najda off, pulled off the RCAs from analogue in, turned Najda on again, switched to digital in - red LED stayed on while music plays through digital in without problem.
Changed opamps from analogue in to channel 7/8 and channel 5/6, channel 8 is dead. New try, same as above, again one channel of the next opamp is defect, red LED stays on until opamps are retracted.
Is there any possibility to repair the analogue in? - I must admit that I have no idea what kills the Opamps. But most important is, that no other parts of Najda are affected or can still be affected (??) by this, because otherwise I can live with the three digital ins and buy an analogue to digital converter for my measuring system (or change to REW...🙂). But it´s still regrettable and I am sad for my well doing Najda!
Maybe someone with more electronic skills than mine can give a comment or answer...?
Me again, lately I have killed ADC opamp. Normally I use input for phono peramp and I have in configured for 1V setting. I needed to check something and I connected output of a sound card that. I guess it's not card signal voltage that killed it. Probably reason was that PC was connected to other power line with slightly higher ground potential.
@jbator: thanks for your reply! I read your posts 3452 and 3454. In my case, NUC shows red LED "ADC Clip Warning" all the time, even after input change to digital and power off/on.
And I killed a second opamp the same way. You might be right assuming there is some ESD, I plugged from left to right input but switched off Najda before touching the cables.
So even if I replace the opamp once (twice,..) more, how to avoid this happening again and again?😕
Your analogue in is healed since then?
And I killed a second opamp the same way. You might be right assuming there is some ESD, I plugged from left to right input but switched off Najda before touching the cables.
So even if I replace the opamp once (twice,..) more, how to avoid this happening again and again?😕
Your analogue in is healed since then?
No issue from then.
For a start you need to be sure that all devices are connected to same wall socket. In my case PC and TV where connected together and where using one power line. For audio I have "dedicated" line, and all other equipment was connected there.
Had similar issue connecting DVD same as pc but to SPDIF.
I connected one end of cable to Najda and then when I was tring to connect other end to dvd I felt slight electric shock while holding rca socket and plug.
For a start you need to be sure that all devices are connected to same wall socket. In my case PC and TV where connected together and where using one power line. For audio I have "dedicated" line, and all other equipment was connected there.
Had similar issue connecting DVD same as pc but to SPDIF.
I connected one end of cable to Najda and then when I was tring to connect other end to dvd I felt slight electric shock while holding rca socket and plug.
After broken my DSP Najda I´d like to replace it. But with what? What are the current options?
"Acourate" and a decent soundcard for a low budget (sort of) solution.
I have been using this one for a while, worked just fine.
Essence STX II 7.1｜Sound Cards｜ASUS Global
AudioVero
Or buy a used Najda 😉