Folks, will this be a feasible USB audio interface for Najda
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/236028-xmos-dsd-384-khz-32bit-usb-53.html
offcial site
http://jlsounds.com/i2soverusb.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/236028-xmos-dsd-384-khz-32bit-usb-53.html
offcial site
http://jlsounds.com/i2soverusb.html
Just wanted to add to my previous reply that when I play DSD files on Foobar, they are routed through the Amanero USB board to my Najda, and play fine.
I could not say if some conversion is taking place somewhere in the chain that equates to a down conversion, ie. not DSD.
There are several USB to I2S in the market.
Najda only takes a 2ch I2S input, so some of the available options are
1. Amanero
2. Wave IO
3. DIYINHK
4. JLsound I2SoverUSB
I had couple of questions regarding isolation and re-clocking features supported by some of these boards
1. I see that there are some benefits to Galvanic isolation. But does re-clocking really help in this case? ASRC and DSP on Najda probably introduced back jitter prior to the DAC anyway.
Maybe the ASRC stage performance is also affected by jitter and the re-clocking helps cleanup jitter introduced by the isolation?
2. Whats the quality of clock used on the Najda board? Is it a user upgradable option?
Najda only takes a 2ch I2S input, so some of the available options are
1. Amanero
2. Wave IO
3. DIYINHK
4. JLsound I2SoverUSB
I had couple of questions regarding isolation and re-clocking features supported by some of these boards
1. I see that there are some benefits to Galvanic isolation. But does re-clocking really help in this case? ASRC and DSP on Najda probably introduced back jitter prior to the DAC anyway.
Maybe the ASRC stage performance is also affected by jitter and the re-clocking helps cleanup jitter introduced by the isolation?
2. Whats the quality of clock used on the Najda board? Is it a user upgradable option?
Hi all
I need help/advice
how to connect Najda and salas shunt regulator.
I have plan/made Salas regulators for +/-12V and 5V
but have trouble understanding where to connect sensing wires form Salas regulator to Najda ?
I know that people have use it to power Najda with them,
so some pictures would be great
thanks
I need help/advice
how to connect Najda and salas shunt regulator.
I have plan/made Salas regulators for +/-12V and 5V
but have trouble understanding where to connect sensing wires form Salas regulator to Najda ?
I know that people have use it to power Najda with them,
so some pictures would be great
thanks
I am about to receive Najda board and I am preparing for assembling.
Could you be so kind to confirm pins when connecting Amanero with Najda expansion slot?
I know that it was discussed earlier but I am not sure if I got everything right. I have also prepared easy-to-follow table to contribute something new
Could you be so kind to confirm pins when connecting Amanero with Najda expansion slot?
I know that it was discussed earlier but I am not sure if I got everything right. I have also prepared easy-to-follow table to contribute something new
Attachments
I haven't had my Najda installed in my rack for some time, waiting for a rebuild using the Control Board. I have now finished the rebuild and installed it again.
As I reported some years ago, I had loud static "spikes" with the Najda in place. These spikes have now returned as I reinstalled the Najda between the pre-amp (Denon X4100) and the power amps (NAD 208 and Rotel 1075). The time between the spikes vary from 10 seconds to 5 minutes. The spikes are there regardless of the USB cable being attached or not. It is as if there is a buildup of electrical energy which is instantly released on the outputs of Najda.
If anyone has experienced the same issue, please let me know if you have found a solution. I really need the Najda for my new active setup.
Thanks,
/Bo
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
As I reported some years ago, I had loud static "spikes" with the Najda in place. These spikes have now returned as I reinstalled the Najda between the pre-amp (Denon X4100) and the power amps (NAD 208 and Rotel 1075). The time between the spikes vary from 10 seconds to 5 minutes. The spikes are there regardless of the USB cable being attached or not. It is as if there is a buildup of electrical energy which is instantly released on the outputs of Najda.
If anyone has experienced the same issue, please let me know if you have found a solution. I really need the Najda for my new active setup.
Thanks,
/Bo
The enclosure is from a Swedish site, electrokit:
Köp Racklåda 19" 1Ux200mm plast svart till rätt pris @ Electrokit
The knob is part of the control board kit, purchased from waf audio.
Interesting to hear that you have static issues as well. I guess we need some help from chapark.
Köp Racklåda 19" 1Ux200mm plast svart till rätt pris @ Electrokit
The knob is part of the control board kit, purchased from waf audio.
Interesting to hear that you have static issues as well. I guess we need some help from chapark.
bomellberg,
I just saw that your enclosure is plastic. Correct? In that case our problem may be related to any lack of shielding for our boards. Mine is sitting on a plywood board. Just a guess, maybe installing najda in a steel enclosure would solve the static problem?
Question: does aluminum and steel provide different type of shielding?
I just saw that your enclosure is plastic. Correct? In that case our problem may be related to any lack of shielding for our boards. Mine is sitting on a plywood board. Just a guess, maybe installing najda in a steel enclosure would solve the static problem?
Question: does aluminum and steel provide different type of shielding?
Hello,
I am moving on and my Najda board and power supply is for sale.
I used the Najda for pre-amp and crossover for sub-sattelite integration but now i have a new set of speakers and crossover is no longer necessary.
Here are some pictures of my Najda setup: https://plus.google.com/u/0/11293762...28903960323118
Najda Board version 1.2 with controlboard. less then a year old. Received package in January 2015
Changed some capacitors with Wima caps (see pictures)
Extra opamps besides the standard LM833 Opamps:
2x burson supreme sound opamps
2x OPA627 Burr Brown opamps
2x NE5532 opamps
2x Linear power source from DIYINHK:
4.17uV Ultralow noise DAC power supply regulator +-12/15V 1A - DIYINHK
and
4.17uV Ultralow noise DAC power supply regulator 3.3V/5V 1Ax2 - DIYINHK
Terroids from Amplimo.
No enclosure
WaveIo board not included
All in all a very fine sounding combo!
€425,- excl. shipping. (is about 60% of new price value)
I am moving on and my Najda board and power supply is for sale.
I used the Najda for pre-amp and crossover for sub-sattelite integration but now i have a new set of speakers and crossover is no longer necessary.
Here are some pictures of my Najda setup: https://plus.google.com/u/0/11293762...28903960323118
Najda Board version 1.2 with controlboard. less then a year old. Received package in January 2015
Changed some capacitors with Wima caps (see pictures)
Extra opamps besides the standard LM833 Opamps:
2x burson supreme sound opamps
2x OPA627 Burr Brown opamps
2x NE5532 opamps
2x Linear power source from DIYINHK:
4.17uV Ultralow noise DAC power supply regulator +-12/15V 1A - DIYINHK
and
4.17uV Ultralow noise DAC power supply regulator 3.3V/5V 1Ax2 - DIYINHK
Terroids from Amplimo.
No enclosure
WaveIo board not included
All in all a very fine sounding combo!
€425,- excl. shipping. (is about 60% of new price value)
Link is not working...
Try this one: https://goo.gl/photos/pnFZBhbLqURwnszd6
perhaps copy and paste in another browser screen
No static issues with my board either!
Last edited:
I am almost ready to fire up najda for the first time, but I'm not 100% sure about the grounding. Maybe someone here can answer my noob question?
I attached +-12V ground on cosel rm15-a to najda +-12v ground
+5V ground on cosel to najda +5 ground
There is still a ground wire from the IEC socket and there is still a Flouting ground on the cosel. I read here to attach the IEC ground to the case for safety, do I also attach the Flouting ground from the cosel to the case?
I attached +-12V ground on cosel rm15-a to najda +-12v ground
+5V ground on cosel to najda +5 ground
There is still a ground wire from the IEC socket and there is still a Flouting ground on the cosel. I read here to attach the IEC ground to the case for safety, do I also attach the Flouting ground from the cosel to the case?
It looks like you have made the right connections from the power supply to Najda although it is likely the grounds are connected inside the power supply anyway and you would only need to connect one ground wire from the power supply to Najda for it to work.
The spare wire from the IEC connector is for safety ground and should be directly connected to the chassis with a bolt, nuts and lock washers. Any paint or anodizing needs to be scraped away to form a good electrical connection as this connection is what will save your life if the case becomes live somehow.
I had a quick look at the datasheet for the RMC15-A1 power supply and there is very little information other than a label for the outputs you should not need to connect the floating ground to anything just AC live and neutral.
Please be careful as from your post it does not seem that you are very familiar with mains wiring. Getting this wrong is not really an option.
Perhaps it would be a good idea to post a picture when you have it connected that way it will be clear exactly what you have done and someone may be able to double to check it for you.
The spare wire from the IEC connector is for safety ground and should be directly connected to the chassis with a bolt, nuts and lock washers. Any paint or anodizing needs to be scraped away to form a good electrical connection as this connection is what will save your life if the case becomes live somehow.
I had a quick look at the datasheet for the RMC15-A1 power supply and there is very little information other than a label for the outputs you should not need to connect the floating ground to anything just AC live and neutral.
Please be careful as from your post it does not seem that you are very familiar with mains wiring. Getting this wrong is not really an option.
Perhaps it would be a good idea to post a picture when you have it connected that way it will be clear exactly what you have done and someone may be able to double to check it for you.
