I can't as yet build the needed new subwoofers due to the budget restraints related to Covid.
Pulled the old passive boxes from the shed and they need some help to boost the bottom end. I was going to buy a new XO unit and use the parametric EQ of the Behringer Ultradrive DCX2496LE [ replacing the current CX 3400] but there is a cheaper option in the Dayton DSP unit.
Just a quick and dirty solution to get some bass boost down low
These are the CerwinVega Vega124s in large sealed boxes; which can take more power than I currently have available, and the pair is also the stands for the tops
Funds are tight and if the cheap unit would work I'll go with what I can afford
Pulled the old passive boxes from the shed and they need some help to boost the bottom end. I was going to buy a new XO unit and use the parametric EQ of the Behringer Ultradrive DCX2496LE [ replacing the current CX 3400] but there is a cheaper option in the Dayton DSP unit.
Just a quick and dirty solution to get some bass boost down low
These are the CerwinVega Vega124s in large sealed boxes; which can take more power than I currently have available, and the pair is also the stands for the tops
Funds are tight and if the cheap unit would work I'll go with what I can afford
Forgot to add the link to the cheaper 2-Channel Dayton unit.
DSP-LF Dsp-Lf Low Frequency Dsp Controller - Dayton | Wagner Online Electronic Stores
DSP-LF Dsp-Lf Low Frequency Dsp Controller - Dayton | Wagner Online Electronic Stores
Not sure if pricing (inc shipping from Europe) would make this better or worse than the Dayton but Thomann have a basic 4 in 4 out unit that seems dead simple to set up: T.Racks 4x4 Mini.
HTH,
David.
HTH,
David.
That's a pretty neat little DSP unit, and it offers compression options too!
Input and output levels are given in dBU though. What voltage does that translate to?
Input and output levels are given in dBU though. What voltage does that translate to?
Thanx for the link David but shipping costs have recently gone through the roof and the current exchange rate is not favourable
I found something that suggests that 0 dBU is 0.7746V, so the rated +12dBU output of that DSP translates to 3V. Not too bad at all. I wonder if anyone's tried using it in a car audio environment?
I just can't imagine anybody today trying to make a quality system without a DSP (esp the inexpensive all-singing-all-dancing Behringer DCX2496).
B.
B.
ADAU1701-2In4Out | 3e Audio
Think of it as a mini dsp 2x4 but you need to use the chip manufacturers (Analog devices) own development tool rather then a manufacturers own GUI.
That board allows you to do everything a mini dsp can, and everything a Dayton unit can.
It can be configured as balanced output or single ended.
Think of it as a mini dsp 2x4 but you need to use the chip manufacturers (Analog devices) own development tool rather then a manufacturers own GUI.
That board allows you to do everything a mini dsp can, and everything a Dayton unit can.
It can be configured as balanced output or single ended.
It depends on how you use it actually.
http://www.3e-audio.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/DS_EDSP-1701-24-A_Rev1.0.pdf
On this particular board you have four independent balanced outputs to use however you like. You could have the same mono signal going to each output for a multi sub approach. Or stereo signal in split in high/low left right.
http://www.3e-audio.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/DS_EDSP-1701-24-A_Rev1.0.pdf
On this particular board you have four independent balanced outputs to use however you like. You could have the same mono signal going to each output for a multi sub approach. Or stereo signal in split in high/low left right.
I am looking but they seem to be sold out or on Pre-Order here unless I want to pay more than normal retail.
As I only need to play with the bass boost I was thinking the little Dayton unit was an affordable option.
Previously the bass boost was handled by the parametric controls of the Yamaha C-80 pre-amp but that died.
I have thought that the old pre-amp was a better unit then my current Cambridge Azure 840 although it does sound better after a service and repair it isn't as versatile as the older analogue unit
I suppose a good fraction of DSP benefit is for the bass. Specifically:
1. bass XO with choice of freq and slope chosen instantaneously
2. parametric EQ with choice of freq and Q, again chosen (and re-chosen) instantaneously, in order to address acoustic and enclosure issues (some say, only enclosure needs to be "fixed")
3. time alignment (seems not much benefit to me, but might feel right to some)
Those are benefit, albeit lesser, at all freq and the upper speaker XO.
Since the DSP introduces a stretch of digital processing, it is a question for you how much of your system is go digital. I am entirely digital from music memory to the DSP output (which feeds bi-amps).
B.
1. bass XO with choice of freq and slope chosen instantaneously
2. parametric EQ with choice of freq and Q, again chosen (and re-chosen) instantaneously, in order to address acoustic and enclosure issues (some say, only enclosure needs to be "fixed")
3. time alignment (seems not much benefit to me, but might feel right to some)
Those are benefit, albeit lesser, at all freq and the upper speaker XO.
Since the DSP introduces a stretch of digital processing, it is a question for you how much of your system is go digital. I am entirely digital from music memory to the DSP output (which feeds bi-amps).
B.
Analogue and digital and Tri-amping. Yes to the need with the bass and mainly what I use/need it for. Because the speakers were sort of built to suit the room. Bass was adequate with a passive XO in Bi-amp but improved clarity in the mid-bass when I went Tri-amp
I suppose I might get some money selling the analogue CX crossover but they don't seem to have much value S/H here as the new cost of Behringer has dropped a bit over the last few years
Talked it over with SWMBO and we just bought the Behringer DCX2496 unit; found one still available at the sale price of $ AUD459- so I'll listing the CX 3400 on eBay tomorrow.
Following bentorontos advice and also keeping the number of units in the system lower.
We had some money sitting in the PlayPal account after selling some other small audio gear.
Following bentorontos advice and also keeping the number of units in the system lower.
We had some money sitting in the PlayPal account after selling some other small audio gear.
Did I forget to mention the steep learning curve? It would be great if somebody wrote an intelligible user manual.
When you know how to use the DCX2496, very easy to achieve what you want and Bob is your Uncle.
You'll need 2 XLR/Cannon male plugs for analog input and some female for output. You can buy cables with XLR to RCA ready to go.
You can input and output using ordinary analog stereo or better, by using a converter to produce a coax SPDIF digital signal input to Input A jack - which skips a step or two of DAC/ADC conversion on the input. Pay no attention to people trying to promote circuit board mods. Device already near perfect.
Hint: as you set and re-set it, scroll down the long list of memory storage slots that are available for you and save your settings, say, slot #30. Then on a piece of masking tape write "Aug 15, #30".
B.
When you know how to use the DCX2496, very easy to achieve what you want and Bob is your Uncle.
You'll need 2 XLR/Cannon male plugs for analog input and some female for output. You can buy cables with XLR to RCA ready to go.
You can input and output using ordinary analog stereo or better, by using a converter to produce a coax SPDIF digital signal input to Input A jack - which skips a step or two of DAC/ADC conversion on the input. Pay no attention to people trying to promote circuit board mods. Device already near perfect.
Hint: as you set and re-set it, scroll down the long list of memory storage slots that are available for you and save your settings, say, slot #30. Then on a piece of masking tape write "Aug 15, #30".
B.
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I have found the online manual very obtuse and I'm lucky as I already have the old patch cables from the CX unit which I'll re-use
Any pointers to a quicker set-up Ben?
I was going to start with simply replicating the settings on the CX unit.
Then play with it
I was going to start with simply replicating the settings on the CX unit.
Then play with it
I think it is good to run each driver as close to full range (and as soft as you have to) to see what is the natural compass of that driver.
Many considerations in choosing XO freq and slope and this adds an important piece of information. For example, letting the mid-range driver voice the whole middle-range. Or with a quality tweeter, bringing it in as low as it can handle. Etc.
With DSP, you can dial-in any freq and slope you please - and the tweeter and woofer do no have to be mirror images, no kidding.
B.
Many considerations in choosing XO freq and slope and this adds an important piece of information. For example, letting the mid-range driver voice the whole middle-range. Or with a quality tweeter, bringing it in as low as it can handle. Etc.
With DSP, you can dial-in any freq and slope you please - and the tweeter and woofer do no have to be mirror images, no kidding.
B.
Well the tops are "Old School" using the Vifa P13 + D27 combo from the old Reference thread mated with a Vifa P25 woofer. That combo seems to match the room well; so all I really thought I needed was bass boost but it will be interesting to try the DSP unit out.
Originally these were built as 2.5 but swapped to Tri-amped when I made the small subs.
Bass was no better but the midrange was cleaner.
So a learning process will start happening in a couple of days
Originally these were built as 2.5 but swapped to Tri-amped when I made the small subs.
Bass was no better but the midrange was cleaner.
So a learning process will start happening in a couple of days