The 4562 is the most logical replacement for a 5532, however the 5532 when used correctly as a 'gain block' is extremely good.
The 4562 would be the one to try if you really wanted to swap them.
The OPA2604 suffered production problems a couple of years back and is not currently available. So beware of fakes !
Only buy semiconductors from authorised distributers.
The 4562 would be the one to try if you really wanted to swap them.
The OPA2604 suffered production problems a couple of years back and is not currently available. So beware of fakes !
Only buy semiconductors from authorised distributers.
Not so sure I’d consider a 4562 a drop in replacement for a 5532. The 4562 is a bit twitchy, needs better decoupling, in the form of a .01-.1uf directly across the power pins.
The eBay amps and dacs sometimes do some interesting things, like place the rail to ground film caps farther away from the op amp than the 47uf electrolytic caps. Before I clued in on this, my first dac didn’t really work so good. Looking at the pictures of that amp, I can’t tell for sure what is going on, but the 47uf caps are directly adjacent to the 5532s. If that’s the case, then maybe to remove the film caps, leave the electrolytic parts, and add a tiny smd part on the back side of the board between pins 4 & 8.
The eBay amps and dacs sometimes do some interesting things, like place the rail to ground film caps farther away from the op amp than the 47uf electrolytic caps. Before I clued in on this, my first dac didn’t really work so good. Looking at the pictures of that amp, I can’t tell for sure what is going on, but the 47uf caps are directly adjacent to the 5532s. If that’s the case, then maybe to remove the film caps, leave the electrolytic parts, and add a tiny smd part on the back side of the board between pins 4 & 8.
Cause is uses the 5532 op amps. It has 2. I am trying to figure out what is a drop in replacement without any modification to the circuit. So far I suspect
the OPA2604, LM4562, LME49860.
FWIW, the 4562 and the 49860 are exactly_the_same_chip. Former is validated for 36 volts and the the latter is validated for 44v. If you don't need the extra power supply range, then they're identical.
The 4562/49720/49860 is wider bandwidth and likes its local PSU decoupling, as well as not doing too hot with RF interference, so be mindful of the supporting circuitry. Although such provisions would benefit the 5532 similarly. Likewise, the performance advantage to a 5532 is miniscule in application, unless one of the chips is truly defective, in which case a replacement and careful examination of the problem is the logical solution. For instrumentation, where every last digit of precision/accuracy is desired, I could justify swapping out the 5532 for a 4562, but an audible improvement is unlikely.
And, yes, the 4562 has lower noise with feedback networks <~2k if I'm remembering right. If you have a 10k feedback resistor, the 5532 is quieter (but a opa2209 is even better, albeit SOIC8).
I'm summarizing other people's posts, so much of this has already been stated.
All true, maybe a (genuine) muses02 would be good part for the eBay chip amp?
I have one here somewhere and it does some things very well.
I have one here somewhere and it does some things very well.
The ROI for the muses02 seems pretty poor. Nothing really jumps out about those opamps, provided one isn't completely married to pdip8. Once you start looking at available, mainstream precision/low-noise opamps in a soic package, these offerings look less enticing.
Here is 2 pics that show the amplifier much better.
I really do not want to take this apart and start soldering. The build and workmanship is very nice. I havent seen such a nice build in an amplifier even in multi thousand dollar amps I have owned. To go messing with it would take away the luster.
Id like to just pull those opamps out and plug in some different ones.
As it is now, sounds fantastic probably due to the nice parts it uses, but just wanna see if anything can get better with different opamps. I ordered the OPA2604 and the LM4562. 2 of each. Should be in by Thursday.
I do appreciate you guys feeback.
I really do not want to take this apart and start soldering. The build and workmanship is very nice. I havent seen such a nice build in an amplifier even in multi thousand dollar amps I have owned. To go messing with it would take away the luster.
Id like to just pull those opamps out and plug in some different ones.
As it is now, sounds fantastic probably due to the nice parts it uses, but just wanna see if anything can get better with different opamps. I ordered the OPA2604 and the LM4562. 2 of each. Should be in by Thursday.
I do appreciate you guys feeback.


5532DD is the low noise version of the NE5532. The first "D" is DIP, the second is low noise. I wouldn't expect any change in sound quality unless something misbehaves.
-Chris
-Chris
Great response... thanks...Might explain why this thing sounds so dam good.
The seller stated that he had to install the components to set the crossover. Any way by looking at the pics, what components I could change to set the crossover to a different cut off frequency? I asked for 80hz. Seems to be working really good at that cutoff but wondering how id go about changing it if i ever wanted too... think maybe its a IC chip or just a few resistors? The last dial on the right is the subwoofer frequency changer. All the way to the right it goes to 80hz. Turning it to the left lowers the cutoff. The main speakers are set at 80hz highpass. The middle knob is sub volume and the left knob is master volume for all sound.
The seller stated that he had to install the components to set the crossover. Any way by looking at the pics, what components I could change to set the crossover to a different cut off frequency? I asked for 80hz. Seems to be working really good at that cutoff but wondering how id go about changing it if i ever wanted too... think maybe its a IC chip or just a few resistors? The last dial on the right is the subwoofer frequency changer. All the way to the right it goes to 80hz. Turning it to the left lowers the cutoff. The main speakers are set at 80hz highpass. The middle knob is sub volume and the left knob is master volume for all sound.
My bet is on a sallen key filter, so look that up and you'll find a few calculators to figure out your filter and what to change if needed.
My bet is on a sallen key filter, so look that up and you'll find a few calculators to figure out your filter and what to change if needed.
That is what it looks like... I dont think ill be messing with it.. LOL.. Looks very complicated.. And I dont wanna mess with this thing..THANKS
UPDATE:
got OPA2604 and the LM4562 in today.
OPA2604 sounds more robust, tube like, analog! The original NE5532 sounds rather digital. I wouldnt know that till I dropped in the BurrBrowns. The Burrbrowns have a better tonal balance and overall easy sound to them that is not fatiguing at all but has a lack of volume. No peaks are valleys I could easily discern. I keep wanting to turn the volume up, maybe cause of lack of distortion? Or maybe cause the sound was not giving me anything in the spectrum that was pronounced. It just seemed rather flat but warm. Coozy. Like a warm camp fire in the middle of winter. I find the soundstage is accurate. Reminds me of the old Sony ES units that used BurrBrown chips. Now I know it was the opaamps! The NE5532 has a bit more volume, not fatiguing, but comparing the two educated me on how opamps can and do create different soundfields. Ne5532 Sounds like the sound was washed and polished witha high sheen. BurrBrowns sound like the sound was pampered and layed to rest while having a nice sleep. LOL both are darn good though.
Then I went from the OPA2604's to the LM4562 chips. Immediately I could hear more. More volume, More bass. Deeper bass. Clarity out the azz! Its like they boosted the gain or something. The vocals are where they should be but now I dont have to look hard. They are right there! The small little details pop out and are also easily heard. Its not warm or analog. Its not digital or too much sheen. Its somewhere in between with a bit more gain. Its like the sound is passed through a filter and what comes out is cleaned up, tweaked and amplified just enough to hear what you been missing...
Winner LM4562.
BTW.. I had no problem dropping these in as a direct replacement. No need to solder anything. I might try a couple other opamps.. but to be honest i dont know how it could get better.
Thanks for the responses...
got OPA2604 and the LM4562 in today.
OPA2604 sounds more robust, tube like, analog! The original NE5532 sounds rather digital. I wouldnt know that till I dropped in the BurrBrowns. The Burrbrowns have a better tonal balance and overall easy sound to them that is not fatiguing at all but has a lack of volume. No peaks are valleys I could easily discern. I keep wanting to turn the volume up, maybe cause of lack of distortion? Or maybe cause the sound was not giving me anything in the spectrum that was pronounced. It just seemed rather flat but warm. Coozy. Like a warm camp fire in the middle of winter. I find the soundstage is accurate. Reminds me of the old Sony ES units that used BurrBrown chips. Now I know it was the opaamps! The NE5532 has a bit more volume, not fatiguing, but comparing the two educated me on how opamps can and do create different soundfields. Ne5532 Sounds like the sound was washed and polished witha high sheen. BurrBrowns sound like the sound was pampered and layed to rest while having a nice sleep. LOL both are darn good though.
Then I went from the OPA2604's to the LM4562 chips. Immediately I could hear more. More volume, More bass. Deeper bass. Clarity out the azz! Its like they boosted the gain or something. The vocals are where they should be but now I dont have to look hard. They are right there! The small little details pop out and are also easily heard. Its not warm or analog. Its not digital or too much sheen. Its somewhere in between with a bit more gain. Its like the sound is passed through a filter and what comes out is cleaned up, tweaked and amplified just enough to hear what you been missing...
Winner LM4562.
BTW.. I had no problem dropping these in as a direct replacement. No need to solder anything. I might try a couple other opamps.. but to be honest i dont know how it could get better.
Thanks for the responses...
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Where did you get the OPA2604 from ? Just asking because these are out of production (due to manufacturing issues).
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...-dead-opa2604-conforming-product_07_final-pdf
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...-dead-opa2604-conforming-product_07_final-pdf
ebay item 291695119508.
Seems legit..
How would I know if they are fake?
They have the BurrBrown Logo and looks legit but I wouldnt know fake from real..
I been doing allot of listening and took out the preamp. Ran everything straight to the amp which is best because It has its own volume control..
Now, To be honest, the NE5532 sounds better. A close match. LOL
BB chips come out last if I connect the sound straight to the amp. Its like somebody pushed the mute button on the bass with those BB chips. NE5532 comes in at a very close second.. Something about that LM4562 that stands out especially the bass.
Seems legit..
How would I know if they are fake?
They have the BurrBrown Logo and looks legit but I wouldnt know fake from real..
I been doing allot of listening and took out the preamp. Ran everything straight to the amp which is best because It has its own volume control..
Now, To be honest, the NE5532 sounds better. A close match. LOL
BB chips come out last if I connect the sound straight to the amp. Its like somebody pushed the mute button on the bass with those BB chips. NE5532 comes in at a very close second.. Something about that LM4562 that stands out especially the bass.
I sent the seller a message asking how he got these cause it was mentioned that they are not in production. Not sure if he responds.. We shall see.
Looking at my chips, they have the BB logo and a r inside a circle next to it..
Sounds like a legit BB chip cause I owned several Sony ES amps and preamps that used them..
Just seems to me the LM chip is superior is every way.. They sound faster, clearer, give more pop, shimmer and bang with accuracy. Stage is a bit wider.
Its clear that opamps change the sound. It also depends on the speakers connected to the amp cause mine are efficient and easily shine. If you have some subpar speakers, it would be harder to tell the difference, but these LM chips have more kick. They dont quit. You can tell they have no slack in the sound. Does that make sense? Passages dont disappear. I dont fell like I gotta turn up the volume sometimes on a song to hear it clearer. You go from the LM chips to the BB chips and can tell in a couple seconds that the sound is subdued, Lacks bass, although sounds nice and mellow, it aint gonna pop out at you and make you smile like the LM chips..
My 2 cents
Looking at my chips, they have the BB logo and a r inside a circle next to it..
Sounds like a legit BB chip cause I owned several Sony ES amps and preamps that used them..
Just seems to me the LM chip is superior is every way.. They sound faster, clearer, give more pop, shimmer and bang with accuracy. Stage is a bit wider.
Its clear that opamps change the sound. It also depends on the speakers connected to the amp cause mine are efficient and easily shine. If you have some subpar speakers, it would be harder to tell the difference, but these LM chips have more kick. They dont quit. You can tell they have no slack in the sound. Does that make sense? Passages dont disappear. I dont fell like I gotta turn up the volume sometimes on a song to hear it clearer. You go from the LM chips to the BB chips and can tell in a couple seconds that the sound is subdued, Lacks bass, although sounds nice and mellow, it aint gonna pop out at you and make you smile like the LM chips..
My 2 cents
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There are a few easy tests that can be done for both the LM4562 and the OPA2604.
Is this a fake LM4562NA?
The circuit in post #43 should give essentially zero volts DC at the output for the OPA2604. Also the current consumption of the OPA2604 should be around 11ma from each rail,
Is this a fake LM4562NA?
The circuit in post #43 should give essentially zero volts DC at the output for the OPA2604. Also the current consumption of the OPA2604 should be around 11ma from each rail,
a lil too much work for me.. Seller replied. stated the chips came from TI. Id really doubt that TI quit making those chips. They are not hard to make. Im guessing your info was wrong. .. Not too worried bout it anyway since the LM chips are better.
UPDATE:
to the LM4562 chips.
BTW.. I had no problem dropping these in as a direct replacement.
I don`t know the schematic where these went but my 2c - several years ago I modded my car CD. It had 4558, the NE5532 works in its place usually not requiring any changes. I then put LM4562 (they were fresh) and got the same result soundwise as you did. But when I put them through scope, they were oscillating. Very few amps will work as a drop in replacement but that depends on the circuit.
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