Hi Qi,
do some numbers for a front horn without any floor loading and see what diameter/square mouth size you need to achieve true full area loading (to eliminate ripples and maintain flat response).
You have some spare area available on the front of the Westminster to extend the mouth slightly but I think you will find that going from 200Hz down to 80Hz will require a lot more area than you have available. Remember also that the crossover point should be about half an octave above the horn low frequency cut off which is why the Westminster crossover is quoted at 300Hz although this is not electronic and achieved passively (probably confirmed by manufacturer's measurement).
Do you want a physical likeness to the Westminster or would a wider and/or deeper box be acceptable? If you make it deeper you may be able to insert an extra length of folding for a longer horn which in turn would allow a wider mouth. The two bass exit mouths are about 60inch by 6inch and a better shape seems to be nearer square so trying for 60inch by 12inch gets closer to that and combined with a longer horn would start to eliminate ripples in the low end response and maybe get down below 20Hz in a smoother manner than the real one.
do some numbers for a front horn without any floor loading and see what diameter/square mouth size you need to achieve true full area loading (to eliminate ripples and maintain flat response).
You have some spare area available on the front of the Westminster to extend the mouth slightly but I think you will find that going from 200Hz down to 80Hz will require a lot more area than you have available. Remember also that the crossover point should be about half an octave above the horn low frequency cut off which is why the Westminster crossover is quoted at 300Hz although this is not electronic and achieved passively (probably confirmed by manufacturer's measurement).
Do you want a physical likeness to the Westminster or would a wider and/or deeper box be acceptable? If you make it deeper you may be able to insert an extra length of folding for a longer horn which in turn would allow a wider mouth. The two bass exit mouths are about 60inch by 6inch and a better shape seems to be nearer square so trying for 60inch by 12inch gets closer to that and combined with a longer horn would start to eliminate ripples in the low end response and maybe get down below 20Hz in a smoother manner than the real one.
We seem to have hijacked this thread.
Sorry to all, but there are at least two ways to get lower than a bass horn;- a vented sub-bass and a bigger horn.
Let's get back on topic and hear all your other views.
Sorry to all, but there are at least two ways to get lower than a bass horn;- a vented sub-bass and a bigger horn.
Let's get back on topic and hear all your other views.
I apologize also for hijacking this thread.
I believe the subject of interest is getting deep bass with horns.
-6db @ 18hz is pretty deep bass for a horn.
That is why I would consider the DIY Westminster as an option.
Additionally, I am surprised no one considers venting the horn's driver to a TLINE to augment the bottom octave.
Please elaborate?
I believe the subject of interest is getting deep bass with horns.
-6db @ 18hz is pretty deep bass for a horn.
That is why I would consider the DIY Westminster as an option.
Additionally, I am surprised no one considers venting the horn's driver to a TLINE to augment the bottom octave.
Please elaborate?
Don't worry about the hijacking - it is all interesting reading.
I'd have said that those westminsters look a lot more difficult to build than the labs though..
Rob.
Just finished cutting all the parts for my labhorns. Am starting assembly Monday.
I'd have said that those westminsters look a lot more difficult to build than the labs though..
Rob.
Just finished cutting all the parts for my labhorns. Am starting assembly Monday.
😀
seems there are a few people nutty/dedicated enough to consider this "path" to sound reproduction in a domestic setting
its on Bert's site under the "showroom" side tab:
http://www.diy-systems.com/
seems there are a few people nutty/dedicated enough to consider this "path" to sound reproduction in a domestic setting
its on Bert's site under the "showroom" side tab:
http://www.diy-systems.com/
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Hi Scott
Thanks soi much for the link. Some really nice systems there.
Good candidate for the LABHORNs also.
AVANTGARDEs fir the DIYer -- great idea.
So many beautiful designs ... so little time...
Thanks soi much for the link. Some really nice systems there.
Good candidate for the LABHORNs also.
AVANTGARDEs fir the DIYer -- great idea.
So many beautiful designs ... so little time...
qi said:
Thanks qi, I hope it will be.
Nice link Scott. The oris200 looks a good candidate for sitting on a midbass horn (80 - 200Hz) to make a sweet 2 way to go with the labs.
Cheers,
Rob
Hi,
I know the numbers (200 & 150) suggest otherwise but I think the 150 is the larger and might better suit upper bass and mid than the smaller horn.
I know the numbers (200 & 150) suggest otherwise but I think the 150 is the larger and might better suit upper bass and mid than the smaller horn.
Hi Andrew,
I thought the number was the horns lower cutoff. The reason I didn't say use the bigger one is I'd want to sit it on top of a big 80Hz midbass horn and the smaller one may make it possible.
Not that I have any money to do any of this at the moment anyhow. Just thinking out loud..😀
Rob
I thought the number was the horns lower cutoff. The reason I didn't say use the bigger one is I'd want to sit it on top of a big 80Hz midbass horn and the smaller one may make it possible.
Not that I have any money to do any of this at the moment anyhow. Just thinking out loud..😀
Rob
Thanks guys..
Mark, the sawdust isn't the problem - it's paying out for the drivers that hurts me 🙁 😀 😀
Only had a problem with 1 piece (the very last piece I fitted - typical!)- I made the top brace fit a bit tight and it shifted the last nose flare panel a bit. Will be correcting with belt sander and sealing all joints with resin tomorrow.
Hopefully no.2 will go very easily now I know how they go together properly.
Rob.
Mark, the sawdust isn't the problem - it's paying out for the drivers that hurts me 🙁 😀 😀
Only had a problem with 1 piece (the very last piece I fitted - typical!)- I made the top brace fit a bit tight and it shifted the last nose flare panel a bit. Will be correcting with belt sander and sealing all joints with resin tomorrow.
Hopefully no.2 will go very easily now I know how they go together properly.
Rob.
I have but one question
Is that a brown burn mark that I see along the edges of the MDF?
If that is the case then you probably have a blunt blade or a fence askew, or both.
Mark
Is that a brown burn mark that I see along the edges of the MDF?
If that is the case then you probably have a blunt blade or a fence askew, or both.
Mark
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