6L6,
What gauge wire did you use for the rail voltage between the power supply and the amplification PCB's? The female spade connectors are blue, which denotes 14-16, but I wanted to confirm.
What gauge wire did you use for the rail voltage between the power supply and the amplification PCB's? The female spade connectors are blue, which denotes 14-16, but I wanted to confirm.
I honestly can't answer that question... Most of my wire is salvage from a friend who does whole-house install, and I gust grab whatever fits.
Sorry I can't be more useful in answering this question. 🙁
Sorry I can't be more useful in answering this question. 🙁
wire enclosed that cannot get rid of heat easily is usually operated at 3A/sqmm to 6A/sqmm
wire that is cooled by ambient air can be operated at upto 12A/sqmm
There are two limitations:
Voltage drop along the wire.
Temperature rise, particularly of the insulation.
It is often reasonable to only consider average operating current when assessing heat loading. i.e. for a pair of ClassAB 100W into 8ohms amplifiers, one could use 0.8mm diam, or 1mm diam, copper wire in pvc insulation for average currents of ~3A and the insulation will appear cold (it won't soften).
wire that is cooled by ambient air can be operated at upto 12A/sqmm
There are two limitations:
Voltage drop along the wire.
Temperature rise, particularly of the insulation.
It is often reasonable to only consider average operating current when assessing heat loading. i.e. for a pair of ClassAB 100W into 8ohms amplifiers, one could use 0.8mm diam, or 1mm diam, copper wire in pvc insulation for average currents of ~3A and the insulation will appear cold (it won't soften).
Are there any issues if one were to use capacitors greater than the 10uF to 15uF specified in the BOM (provided they physically fit on the board)? Would any parts need to be swapped out for different values if doing so?
I'm assuming you are talking about the power supply. When I built my f4 the general advice i received for class a amps is dont use snubbers.
Quick question regarding the output connectors;
Does anybody know if FASTON-250 series tabs will fit in place of the 3-pin outputs?
The wire I will be using is too thick for the connectors(12-14 AWG). I would prefer not to solder the connections right now, as I will be building a couple(conservative estimate) of amps in the future, and may switch around some parts.
Does anybody know if FASTON-250 series tabs will fit in place of the 3-pin outputs?
The wire I will be using is too thick for the connectors(12-14 AWG). I would prefer not to solder the connections right now, as I will be building a couple(conservative estimate) of amps in the future, and may switch around some parts.
Faston uses two holes in the pad and better/stronger if plated both sides.
Two, or three, adjacent pads @ 0.2" centres both/all drilled with two holes to suit the faston allows two/three fastons to be fitted, or using just one hole to use a two/three way 0.2" terminal block.
At least one of the fastons MUST be insulated, to prevent accidents. The gap between two insulating boots will be small.
Fastons come in three sizes: yellow, blue and red. I don't know which sizes fit which colours.
Two, or three, adjacent pads @ 0.2" centres both/all drilled with two holes to suit the faston allows two/three fastons to be fitted, or using just one hole to use a two/three way 0.2" terminal block.
At least one of the fastons MUST be insulated, to prevent accidents. The gap between two insulating boots will be small.
Fastons come in three sizes: yellow, blue and red. I don't know which sizes fit which colours.
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Thanks Andrew. The faston .187 series I use at work use the color Red=22-18, Blue=16-14, Yellow 12-10. I believe its the same for all amphenol/tyco faston terminals.
I always use the insulated terminals, they are worth the extra money in my opinion(I find they crimp better, and provide insulation).
using your data table I would use the smaller "blue" for your 14awg cable.
The tighter the cable fit into the connector the better the crimp.
The tighter the cable fit into the connector the better the crimp.
hi is possbile for someone to please explain how to choose the correct bridge rectifier how do i go about what specs to look for etc?
A monolithic bridge separate from the PCB or discrete parts with heatsinks on the PCB?
Top or bottom photo?
Top or bottom photo?
http://www.apexjr.com/components.html
600 P.I.V. 25A 1" x 1" 1/4" Tab Terminal Bridge $2.50
600 P.I.V is Better.
600 P.I.V. 25A 1" x 1" 1/4" Tab Terminal Bridge $2.50
600 P.I.V is Better.
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Suggestion for v4....:
Can you give the option to have a f6 layout, meaning eight caps after theresistors, so a fake dual-mono ?
Can you give the option to have a f6 layout, meaning eight caps after theresistors, so a fake dual-mono ?