Your thermistors are now correct. 🙂
Yes, try the GND connections as you now show, and also try it with all the GND at the center of the PSU. One way will be quieter.
Yes, try the GND connections as you now show, and also try it with all the GND at the center of the PSU. One way will be quieter.
Don't use a shared bolt/mechanical fixing for PE with anything else.
The PE to Chassis should be at the incoming power cable.
The Main Audio Ground (MAG) to Chassis should be at the MAG.
Check your PSU star ground. You could have charging pulses, if the PCB has not been designed to keep them away from the board connections.
The MAG and the PE can be any distance apart, there is no technical reason to have them close.
The PE to Chassis should be at the incoming power cable.
The Main Audio Ground (MAG) to Chassis should be at the MAG.
Check your PSU star ground. You could have charging pulses, if the PCB has not been designed to keep them away from the board connections.
The MAG and the PE can be any distance apart, there is no technical reason to have them close.
Hi Andrew, I'm not sure I know what your definition mean. Are you saying I need to create two points to chassis, one at the power cable inlet and one near the PSU ground (is this the MAG you are talking about?) ? Something like this?
screenshot windows 8
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
screenshot windows 8
I can see you have two channels (L & R).
I can also see that they share the Ground of the PSU.
I am not sure where your Main Audio Ground is.
Or do you have two separate MAGs, one to each Channel?
I cannot tell what the PSU is doing to that on board grounding point.
I can also see that they share the Ground of the PSU.
I am not sure where your Main Audio Ground is.
Or do you have two separate MAGs, one to each Channel?
I cannot tell what the PSU is doing to that on board grounding point.
Hi Andrew, if you look at post 1# of this thread you see what the PSU board looks like, there's also a link to the schematics.
Are you hoping that I will volunteer to reverse engineer the PSU PCBs for you?
No, I won't be doing that.
No, I won't be doing that.
No, I was just trying to be helpfull and answer your question.
I'll try the grounding scheme based on the feedback by 6L6.
Thanks,
I'll try the grounding scheme based on the feedback by 6L6.
Thanks,
I would run the two speaker ground returns directly to the star ground. You don't want that on the PCB. It returns back to the power supply anyway.
Can you also show how you want to route the power supply?
My € 0.02 worth.
Jan
Can you also show how you want to route the power supply?
My € 0.02 worth.
Jan
He didn't understand the question. You are almost unique in your use of "MAG", so there is sometimes misunderstanding. Perhaps you can clarify so he understands the question better? Or offer a suggested layout?
I usually precede MAG with Main Audio Ground (MAG) so that all further references are fully understood.
Read posts 62 & 64 to see my usual practice for using possibly unknown acronyms.
Read posts 62 & 64 to see my usual practice for using possibly unknown acronyms.
Location of rectifier board wrt transformer
I am in the process of layout out a Honey Badger amp that will use two DIYA v3 rectifier boards and cap boards. I have a lot of chassis height available, but not much width or depth. I'm wondering if there are any disadvantages to mounting the two rectifier boards above my toroidal transformer (Antek AN-8448). I plan to make a custom aluminum plate that would serve as both a clamp to hold the transformer to the chassis (using a stainless steel thru-bolt) and a mounting plate for the two rectifier boards.
I theorize that this case would not be much different electrically than mounting the boards next to the transformer, but I would like to hear from those that know much more than I about power supplies 😀
Brian
I am in the process of layout out a Honey Badger amp that will use two DIYA v3 rectifier boards and cap boards. I have a lot of chassis height available, but not much width or depth. I'm wondering if there are any disadvantages to mounting the two rectifier boards above my toroidal transformer (Antek AN-8448). I plan to make a custom aluminum plate that would serve as both a clamp to hold the transformer to the chassis (using a stainless steel thru-bolt) and a mounting plate for the two rectifier boards.
I theorize that this case would not be much different electrically than mounting the boards next to the transformer, but I would like to hear from those that know much more than I about power supplies 😀
Brian
No problem at all.
If you haven't yet bought parts, I would suggest some monolythic diode bridges, they sound great and are very compact compared to the discrete diodes, heatsinks, PCB, etc...
Example - GBPC3502 Fairchild Semiconductor | Mouser
If you haven't yet bought parts, I would suggest some monolythic diode bridges, they sound great and are very compact compared to the discrete diodes, heatsinks, PCB, etc...
Example - GBPC3502 Fairchild Semiconductor | Mouser
Yes, absolutely.
If physical size is not an issue, it will work wonderfully. If you need it to be smaller, there are other solutions.
If physical size is not an issue, it will work wonderfully. If you need it to be smaller, there are other solutions.
Thanks, for the oracle I will need to figure out how to stuff it in the box. I see you dimension your mechanical drawings like an EE! For the pearl, night is the only criteria. I will order three of them, thanks again.
Hi
Am in process of ordering parts to build an F4 and could use some guidance on best electrolytic cap values for the universal V3 board. BOM states 10K-15K uF but then also states that optimal value is subject to other factors. I will be utilizing the Antek 300Va transformer. I'm clear on the voltage rating, just not the optimal capacitance value...
if there is a post somewhere that explains how I could arrive at the optimum value myself, that would be even better 🙂
thanks in advance!
bryan
Am in process of ordering parts to build an F4 and could use some guidance on best electrolytic cap values for the universal V3 board. BOM states 10K-15K uF but then also states that optimal value is subject to other factors. I will be utilizing the Antek 300Va transformer. I'm clear on the voltage rating, just not the optimal capacitance value...
if there is a post somewhere that explains how I could arrive at the optimum value myself, that would be even better 🙂
thanks in advance!
bryan