Re: More lower mids
Hi George,
Give it time. I broke the FE127E in for about 100 hours. At that point, the mids and highs were pretty good and have not changed much. However, since then I have been able to drop the crossover point from about 100Hz to 80Hz. These guys need major hours before they fully break in.
Also, since you are monopole, the problem may not be lack of bass, but rather that they are to bright as a result of baffle step.
Give this a read:
http://www.quarter-wave.com/General/BSC_Sizing.pdf
Moving the speakers towards a wall can also help reduce baffle step.
stelleg151 said:
Hi George,
Give it time. I broke the FE127E in for about 100 hours. At that point, the mids and highs were pretty good and have not changed much. However, since then I have been able to drop the crossover point from about 100Hz to 80Hz. These guys need major hours before they fully break in.
Also, since you are monopole, the problem may not be lack of bass, but rather that they are to bright as a result of baffle step.
Give this a read:
http://www.quarter-wave.com/General/BSC_Sizing.pdf
Moving the speakers towards a wall can also help reduce baffle step.
Yeah I have been considering putting in a BSC, I think I will try that, although I was hesitant to because the SI was rumored to sound much better without any circuits in between it and the drivers, but perhaps I will tinker.
Thanks dave,
George
Thanks dave,
George
I found BSC was a must with a monopole FE127E and the amount required varied from room to room even though they were similar amounts from the back wall.
On this FE127E there is a BSC table which only applies for the 200mm wide baffle. There's a great BSC spreadsheet to calculate these components on the quarter-wave site mentioned in GG's post.
On this FE127E there is a BSC table which only applies for the 200mm wide baffle. There's a great BSC spreadsheet to calculate these components on the quarter-wave site mentioned in GG's post.
I had to add BSC to my FE127 monopole as well. You can avoid it by building a bipole, the the BSC circuit is a lot cheaper than two more drivers.
preiter said:
Most definately.
Also, I dont have the drivers flush with the face of the box, does that matter at all?
stelleg151 said:
Everything matters, but the 126 & 127 are most often just mounted. The shallowness of the bezel & its shape tend to minimize any issues. If you are worried, just build up the baffle with some felt.
dave
bootzilla said:
I am a owner of a unmodified sonic T-amp, let me know how things turn out...
gychang
I need a pair of bookshelf speakers to actually use on the bookshelves in my kitchen. Would the Fonken, miniOnken or rabbitz's monopole work?
Thanks,
Ray
Thanks,
Ray
Sure... the miniOnken with the FR125 would definitly need damped ports to not be way bass heavy.
dave
dave
Greets!
More than likely, open back will be sufficient with the FR125S since you'll get strong cavity resonances.
GM
More than likely, open back will be sufficient with the FR125S since you'll get strong cavity resonances.
GM
Greets!
Make a box with no back, IOW a dipole, and if there's too much mids/HF reflections either place a decorative potholder behind it or lightly stuff the rear of the box.
GM
Make a box with no back, IOW a dipole, and if there's too much mids/HF reflections either place a decorative potholder behind it or lightly stuff the rear of the box.
GM
Sounds reasonable to me. There are published plans for a FR125S dipole although this one is probably larger than what you have in mind.
http://creativesound.ca/pdf/EasyPole.pdf
http://creativesound.ca/pdf/EasyPole.pdf
Ray Collins said:
Greets!
Nope, I never 'kid' about speaker design advice unless we're all just being 'silly' for whatever reason. This doesn't mean to imply that it's always good advice though, all knowing I'm not, I just come up with the best I can at that moment.
GM