possible to loose the vias or thru hole plating, so make sure you solder on both sides of the board just to be sure...
You ask because you are thinking of drilling? My memory is that the trace was on one side or the other not both. I had to drill a few out and it was slightly concerning as you are losing a lot of surface area as in one side and the through hole. I shrugged and soldered it up... no issues so far has been my main amp in the lab for a month running 6-12hrs a day on average.
jt
jt
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It's pretty much a single sided board with a couple jumpers added to the top side. Holes are plated through but don't need to be.
Plating through is not needed, but I like because it helps to prevent possible pad lift and cold solders from heat cycles also greater contact area. Basically, soldering both sides is like using a nut and bolt and one side more like a screw.
As stated, even if you drill and the pad only contacts the trace on one side, you still want to solder the pad on the other side to help lock that trace down.
JT
As stated, even if you drill and the pad only contacts the trace on one side, you still want to solder the pad on the other side to help lock that trace down.
JT
Specs ?
Just out of curiosity, since this post is a Stickie and been around so long, has anyone measured/published the performance specs for this amplifier?
Just wondering. Cheers, Mike
Just out of curiosity, since this post is a Stickie and been around so long, has anyone measured/published the performance specs for this amplifier?
Just wondering. Cheers, Mike
DAC8 and Honeybadger
Hello all,
Little bit off-topic but I want to share my build of my DAC / Mediaplayer to go with my last years build of the Honeybadger Amp. (also very curious about the developments of Wolverine...).
Building both frames was quite a job, but it looks very nice together, and very happy with the sound of the badger combined with a quad PCM1704's.
T7 Honey Badger Amp
DAC8 DAC / Mediaplayer
Hello all,
Little bit off-topic but I want to share my build of my DAC / Mediaplayer to go with my last years build of the Honeybadger Amp. (also very curious about the developments of Wolverine...).
Building both frames was quite a job, but it looks very nice together, and very happy with the sound of the badger combined with a quad PCM1704's.
T7 Honey Badger Amp
DAC8 DAC / Mediaplayer
Wow , I could not imagine what you guys would do with a new Wolverine.
Those are the best Badgers I've yet seen.
On the Wolverine -
- Drop - in Badger replacement.
-Low loop area/EF3 .... this amp is TRUE 5ppm 20Khz with ANY load.
-Don't want the "wolverine" ? - Modular IPS. Go for a CFA , or a
Leach amp ... any classic design is possible with this one.
SMD could even be used on one of these IPS's (21st century).
But ,the Wolverine/base EF3 is all through-hole.
-This board is "pretty" , does not even look like a "project". A
high end OEM+++ offering. Someone said a " Star trek" amp.
Everything is designed for "coolness" - literally. A 15mA IPS/ 4mA VAS.
This one will run almost cold with 60V rails.
OS
Those are the best Badgers I've yet seen.
On the Wolverine -
- Drop - in Badger replacement.
-Low loop area/EF3 .... this amp is TRUE 5ppm 20Khz with ANY load.
-Don't want the "wolverine" ? - Modular IPS. Go for a CFA , or a
Leach amp ... any classic design is possible with this one.
SMD could even be used on one of these IPS's (21st century).
But ,the Wolverine/base EF3 is all through-hole.
-This board is "pretty" , does not even look like a "project". A
high end OEM+++ offering. Someone said a " Star trek" amp.
Everything is designed for "coolness" - literally. A 15mA IPS/ 4mA VAS.
This one will run almost cold with 60V rails.
OS
How about Liquid Cooled Wolverine - Class A - at absurd dissipation. 200V rails.
We'd use a Sodium Chromate solution for corrosion inhibition with an external pump and cooling "tower" - maybe using former glass laboratory condensers (pyrex) for visual effect as a heat exchanger to a tap water secondary loop. Oh - and Copper Bus Bars for the rails. Very important. Need bus bars... Very important.
Instead of speaker protection, it'd have a Scram circuit... Maybe Industrial Hockey Puck SCRs to dump the rails into a magnetic rail gun that would converted the unwanted current into kinetic energy.
Using this cooling plate:
From Digikey:
Blocked
We'd use a Sodium Chromate solution for corrosion inhibition with an external pump and cooling "tower" - maybe using former glass laboratory condensers (pyrex) for visual effect as a heat exchanger to a tap water secondary loop. Oh - and Copper Bus Bars for the rails. Very important. Need bus bars... Very important.
Instead of speaker protection, it'd have a Scram circuit... Maybe Industrial Hockey Puck SCRs to dump the rails into a magnetic rail gun that would converted the unwanted current into kinetic energy.
Using this cooling plate:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
From Digikey:
Blocked
I could do that , with a Genesis stealth MOSFET class A ops.
200w 8R / 400W 4R/ 1kW 2R.
2 -1.5KW 50-0-50 trafo's - 100K's of uF .... BIG !!! heatsinks.
Current mirror powered "star trek" class A. Use standard PC processor
liquid cooling setups - easy to source.
WELL within my capabilities .... 4 of the biggest PC water coolers would give me
the C/W to make this go. PASS killer. (except mine would be nearly PPB) ha ha.
Copper bars and "anal" grounding.
OS
200w 8R / 400W 4R/ 1kW 2R.
2 -1.5KW 50-0-50 trafo's - 100K's of uF .... BIG !!! heatsinks.
Current mirror powered "star trek" class A. Use standard PC processor
liquid cooling setups - easy to source.
WELL within my capabilities .... 4 of the biggest PC water coolers would give me
the C/W to make this go. PASS killer. (except mine would be nearly PPB) ha ha.
Copper bars and "anal" grounding.
OS
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What are you using for your board? I'm currently building a badger for my father, taking a break from tube amp stuff lol 🙂