vp140 cont'd
The tiny cable toward the lower right corner is the problem, as the following proposal for a board arrangement illustrates.
This cable is 20 pins, spaced on the LCD at a solderable 0.05" pitch, however on the driver card they used the tiniest connector imaginable, with a spacing of probably 0.02. A long cable would have to be built to go from the driver board, as shown, all the way down to that small cable. Whether this would effect electrical signal timing is ??? There are some square labled pads similar to that shown in a previous reply - but not 20 of 'em...
The big cable at the top of the driver board is much more durable to folding, etc.
So I put it back together and it still works - using it now to type this in. Until I get a reasonable solution to the problem of that small cable, it'll probably stay together. BTW, color and response time are both excellent!
The tiny cable toward the lower right corner is the problem, as the following proposal for a board arrangement illustrates.
This cable is 20 pins, spaced on the LCD at a solderable 0.05" pitch, however on the driver card they used the tiniest connector imaginable, with a spacing of probably 0.02. A long cable would have to be built to go from the driver board, as shown, all the way down to that small cable. Whether this would effect electrical signal timing is ??? There are some square labled pads similar to that shown in a previous reply - but not 20 of 'em...
The big cable at the top of the driver board is much more durable to folding, etc.
So I put it back together and it still works - using it now to type this in. Until I get a reasonable solution to the problem of that small cable, it'll probably stay together. BTW, color and response time are both excellent!
Attachments
CRT route
Scot_lad
(Or any one else for that matter)
If understand this right, the inkomming signal from for exampel a DVD player spans from 0 to 2 volt to indicate right brigtness for the lightbeem.
What happens if I make the volt go a little bitt higher?
Is the higher voltidge trapped by filters or is it missunderstod or can I trick the TV to produce a little brighter picture?
And is the tecniqe the same on a monitor?
Sorry about all questions but I´m trying to feed the university with some alternatives if they get stuck . . . .
By for now
Scot_lad
(Or any one else for that matter)
If understand this right, the inkomming signal from for exampel a DVD player spans from 0 to 2 volt to indicate right brigtness for the lightbeem.
What happens if I make the volt go a little bitt higher?
Is the higher voltidge trapped by filters or is it missunderstod or can I trick the TV to produce a little brighter picture?
And is the tecniqe the same on a monitor?
Sorry about all questions but I´m trying to feed the university with some alternatives if they get stuck . . . .
By for now
Boosting input signal strength
Hmm...I don't know. I think we should take the monitor and TV as seperate examples here...
It depends how the TV was connected to the DVD player. I'm in britain so it is possibly different from you. If you're using a coaxial RF cable then boosting this will do no good, as the TV converts that to a standard voltage - since this signal could have come from an aerial, the signal strength and thus voltage could be anything. If you're using that evil French invention SCART, which is most likely, then it'll be the composite video you're talking about. I think this would probably be dealt with differently between manufacturers, but in general I think there is too much circuitry between the input and the CRT to make it viable to simply boost this signal. What you could do though, is to find where the signal is amplified for going into the CRT inside the TV, and boost that.
As far as the CRT response goes to non-standard input voltages, they are usually linear up to about 110% of the standard point-point voltage. Although this varies obviously between manufacturers. I had an interesting web page about it but I can't unfortunately find it anymore. Basically, the more you overdrive the CRT, the less linear it becomes. You will have to investigate this on your particular tube as it will vary quite a lot, I would imagine.
As for an update on my progress, I've had no luck as yet with my solution to a curved screen. And I've not done much all week on it 'cos I've had no time.
It should be noted that you can get color 5" CRTs that are totally flat screen. Very nice. But they're not incredibly high resolution. Mind you I'm sure they're still good enough for my uses. My granny (yes granny) has one, but she'll not let me steal it. Most o fmy friends are scared to lend me anything to 'fix' because they know nothing comes back in one bit. And how true that is. That's the mark of a good engineer I think - willingness to experiment on ANYTHING.
Forgot to say, I would think monitors are quite fussy on input voltages. Increasing the input voltage of say RGB inputs may increase the brightness, but they will almost certainly saturate (not get any brighter) at the same brightness level on screen. This would have the effect of reducing detail and contrast. I wouldn't recommend this in case you wreck your monitor, but like I say everything's worth a try.
Cheers.
Hmm...I don't know. I think we should take the monitor and TV as seperate examples here...
It depends how the TV was connected to the DVD player. I'm in britain so it is possibly different from you. If you're using a coaxial RF cable then boosting this will do no good, as the TV converts that to a standard voltage - since this signal could have come from an aerial, the signal strength and thus voltage could be anything. If you're using that evil French invention SCART, which is most likely, then it'll be the composite video you're talking about. I think this would probably be dealt with differently between manufacturers, but in general I think there is too much circuitry between the input and the CRT to make it viable to simply boost this signal. What you could do though, is to find where the signal is amplified for going into the CRT inside the TV, and boost that.
As far as the CRT response goes to non-standard input voltages, they are usually linear up to about 110% of the standard point-point voltage. Although this varies obviously between manufacturers. I had an interesting web page about it but I can't unfortunately find it anymore. Basically, the more you overdrive the CRT, the less linear it becomes. You will have to investigate this on your particular tube as it will vary quite a lot, I would imagine.
As for an update on my progress, I've had no luck as yet with my solution to a curved screen. And I've not done much all week on it 'cos I've had no time.
It should be noted that you can get color 5" CRTs that are totally flat screen. Very nice. But they're not incredibly high resolution. Mind you I'm sure they're still good enough for my uses. My granny (yes granny) has one, but she'll not let me steal it. Most o fmy friends are scared to lend me anything to 'fix' because they know nothing comes back in one bit. And how true that is. That's the mark of a good engineer I think - willingness to experiment on ANYTHING.
Forgot to say, I would think monitors are quite fussy on input voltages. Increasing the input voltage of say RGB inputs may increase the brightness, but they will almost certainly saturate (not get any brighter) at the same brightness level on screen. This would have the effect of reducing detail and contrast. I wouldn't recommend this in case you wreck your monitor, but like I say everything's worth a try.
Cheers.
What happens, if you increase signal levels to audio inputs? Yes, distortion! The same happens with too high video levels. May be, image whitens out or blackens out, depending on positive or inverse video modus. Maybe, the monitor's input circuit bring down the signal again.
You can't beat the physics here! The only way to increase brightness of a CRT is to increase anode high voltage, because this increases the speed of electrons, which hit the phosphor!!
What CRT-color-tubes concern, there's a limitation because of the pixel-mask behind the tubes frontglass, which can overheat and loose it's exact position !
xblocker
You can't beat the physics here! The only way to increase brightness of a CRT is to increase anode high voltage, because this increases the speed of electrons, which hit the phosphor!!
What CRT-color-tubes concern, there's a limitation because of the pixel-mask behind the tubes frontglass, which can overheat and loose it's exact position !
xblocker
Yeah, I think the only certain thing is that we don't know exactly what would happen, but it isn't going to be easy to overcome.
As an aside, I've mostly used TFT LCDs on laptops, but they're not particularly special. As for the LCD TVs that you can buy now, are they some kind of a joke? They're available in department stores right next to similarly sized (although FAR cheaper) traditional TVs, so you can compare the difference. So why would anyone want to pay 10x as much for an LCD TV, which has pathetic response times and blurry images. Perhaps they turn the colour up full in the shops so that they look more impressive. But they actually look garish.
As another aside, our cable company pipes TV to us at low quality I reckon. If you sit near the TV, the image is grainy because of the digital compression, perhaps they compress it a lot to save money or maybe the box we use to decompress it is just ****.
Dunno why I'm on a rant here, no doubt Frank 'xblocker' Sinatra will have a retort for me.
As an aside, I've mostly used TFT LCDs on laptops, but they're not particularly special. As for the LCD TVs that you can buy now, are they some kind of a joke? They're available in department stores right next to similarly sized (although FAR cheaper) traditional TVs, so you can compare the difference. So why would anyone want to pay 10x as much for an LCD TV, which has pathetic response times and blurry images. Perhaps they turn the colour up full in the shops so that they look more impressive. But they actually look garish.
As another aside, our cable company pipes TV to us at low quality I reckon. If you sit near the TV, the image is grainy because of the digital compression, perhaps they compress it a lot to save money or maybe the box we use to decompress it is just ****.
Dunno why I'm on a rant here, no doubt Frank 'xblocker' Sinatra will have a retort for me.
CRT route
Thanks a lot Scot_lad and xblocker🙂 🙂 🙂
That was much more information than I hoped for!
I´m beginning to get a slight grip on the whole concept of CRT now and hope to be able to give the university some new threads to spin on 🙂
I will post there answer as soon as I get it!
Thanks again!
Bye for now
Thanks a lot Scot_lad and xblocker🙂 🙂 🙂
That was much more information than I hoped for!
I´m beginning to get a slight grip on the whole concept of CRT now and hope to be able to give the university some new threads to spin on 🙂
I will post there answer as soon as I get it!
Thanks again!
Bye for now
VP140s available from where I got mine!
Guess there's not much interest in the VP140 insides... After I resized all those !@*^%% pictures to be < 100K...bastards!
Anyway, for those of you who are actually interested in this particular panel monitor, but perhaps unwilling / unmotivated to say anything at all about it in response to my posts, I have the following FYI -
Joe,
Yes that would be great. I have 6 left and I am
waiting for a week or so before I put them on e-bay.
If anyone is interested then I will be happy to sell
them the monitor.
Thanks,
Lynnette
--- Joseph Jasniewski <joejas@ihpc.net> wrote:
> Lynette,
>
> The VP140 arrive today and it is operational.
> Thank-you.
>
> I belong to an on line club trying to turn flat
> panel monitors into projectors. If the VP140 works
> out, can I share Telamon as a source for these
> panels with the other members?
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Joe Jasniewski
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: L Z [SMTP:telamon_it@yahoo.com]
You can get one for $150 US + ship with no VGA cable or power supply - without the hassle of getting outbid on ebay! That's a good enough price just to use as a monitor, IMHO. (I've seen a 1024X768 16.7M color 25-50 ms response Proxima OHP panel go for ~$350 the other day - with no VGA input cable. So "good luck" getting anything comparable at this price...)
The VGA cable it uses is a common item, P/S is +12V @ 2.5A, connector barrel negative. You can clearly see what you're up against by my photos, for the projector application -
I am not connected financially in any way. Just doin' a good deed for the day...Write Lynette at the above address or look up Telamon on the web for their phone number.
Guess there's not much interest in the VP140 insides... After I resized all those !@*^%% pictures to be < 100K...bastards!
Anyway, for those of you who are actually interested in this particular panel monitor, but perhaps unwilling / unmotivated to say anything at all about it in response to my posts, I have the following FYI -
Joe,
Yes that would be great. I have 6 left and I am
waiting for a week or so before I put them on e-bay.
If anyone is interested then I will be happy to sell
them the monitor.
Thanks,
Lynnette
--- Joseph Jasniewski <joejas@ihpc.net> wrote:
> Lynette,
>
> The VP140 arrive today and it is operational.
> Thank-you.
>
> I belong to an on line club trying to turn flat
> panel monitors into projectors. If the VP140 works
> out, can I share Telamon as a source for these
> panels with the other members?
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Joe Jasniewski
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: L Z [SMTP:telamon_it@yahoo.com]
You can get one for $150 US + ship with no VGA cable or power supply - without the hassle of getting outbid on ebay! That's a good enough price just to use as a monitor, IMHO. (I've seen a 1024X768 16.7M color 25-50 ms response Proxima OHP panel go for ~$350 the other day - with no VGA input cable. So "good luck" getting anything comparable at this price...)
The VGA cable it uses is a common item, P/S is +12V @ 2.5A, connector barrel negative. You can clearly see what you're up against by my photos, for the projector application -
I am not connected financially in any way. Just doin' a good deed for the day...Write Lynette at the above address or look up Telamon on the web for their phone number.
Nice pics.
Hi,
just wanted to praise Jjasniew for the pics because I know how impatiently I waited for response...
Since I am done I have no concrete interest in the monitor you use, but it's nice to see the insides of different types as well.
Maybe it will help you to know that the cable I used to elongate that 10-pin cable is about 15 cm long without messing up the timing of the signal. (I don't know if this is even feaseable, but then, what do I know?)
Concerning the blurry edges of my image (Blurry really is said too much, but it is not perfekt.): This is defenitely due to my lightsource not being a point-lightsource. I have experimented with a blind(? =blende in german. Basically a cover for the lamp with a hole in it to turn in into a point-light source.) The edges of the image are pretty dark with it installed, but the image is sharp. I will investigate the best suited shape and size of the hole. The picture will never be perfekt, but people who watched tv on the projector (and these people are not overly polite 🙂 ) liked it.
Just to raise some ruckus: I think it's funny that a topic that basically evolved out of that 100"TV thing is returning there now with you CRT-guys😉. I wish you luck with your approach, but I am pretty sure that it is even harder to do than with an LCD and is only suited for pretty advanced DIYers. I bet if it works you will have a much sharper but also much darker image. Sounds good too. Who am I talking to?
Frank Batzen
Hi,
just wanted to praise Jjasniew for the pics because I know how impatiently I waited for response...
Since I am done I have no concrete interest in the monitor you use, but it's nice to see the insides of different types as well.
Maybe it will help you to know that the cable I used to elongate that 10-pin cable is about 15 cm long without messing up the timing of the signal. (I don't know if this is even feaseable, but then, what do I know?)
Concerning the blurry edges of my image (Blurry really is said too much, but it is not perfekt.): This is defenitely due to my lightsource not being a point-lightsource. I have experimented with a blind(? =blende in german. Basically a cover for the lamp with a hole in it to turn in into a point-light source.) The edges of the image are pretty dark with it installed, but the image is sharp. I will investigate the best suited shape and size of the hole. The picture will never be perfekt, but people who watched tv on the projector (and these people are not overly polite 🙂 ) liked it.
Just to raise some ruckus: I think it's funny that a topic that basically evolved out of that 100"TV thing is returning there now with you CRT-guys😉. I wish you luck with your approach, but I am pretty sure that it is even harder to do than with an LCD and is only suited for pretty advanced DIYers. I bet if it works you will have a much sharper but also much darker image. Sounds good too. Who am I talking to?
Frank Batzen
Jjasniew:
I just remebered: Didn't somebody post a link a while back as a source for ffc with connectors? You could plug it into the mainboard-side connector and solder on the new connector, maybe even build a pcb for that new connector. Very reversible and harmless. I was surprised by that link then, since I wanted to go that route but wasn't able to locate anybody to sell a single one of these to me in Germany. I even offered to bribe one lady from such a company and she looked in the stock, but had none in the right size. These things are generally custom-made.
Frank Batzen
I just remebered: Didn't somebody post a link a while back as a source for ffc with connectors? You could plug it into the mainboard-side connector and solder on the new connector, maybe even build a pcb for that new connector. Very reversible and harmless. I was surprised by that link then, since I wanted to go that route but wasn't able to locate anybody to sell a single one of these to me in Germany. I even offered to bribe one lady from such a company and she looked in the stock, but had none in the right size. These things are generally custom-made.
Frank Batzen
Rant x2
Let me just add that I do not advocate the "Big Woody" at all, or any other 100" TV offering which uses a cheap fresnel and a behemoth TV. Not sure about the other CRT guys but what I'm developing is essentially a scaled down version of the commercial CRT based projector, using high quality optics, with no fresnels in site. I'm sure you remember my post several pages back explaining why I wasn't going for the LCD approach yet.
I'm actually going to start experimenting with high-brightness 5" CRTs from inside a real CRT projector, which will solve the brightness and colour issues, and also the flat screen problems. Only thing is they scare the hell out of me because they're big buggers and could give me one hell of a shock. But once again they were free so I can't complain. That will be next week's project. And I'll still offer advice on the route using cheap normal TVs as before.
As an extension to that - if you are using nice single-colour CRTs, where you don't care about the aperture grid or whatever, because they don't have one, you can build your own relatively cheap control circuitry for the CRT beam, which would offer increased resolution over the old electronics which controlled it before. (presuming you stole the tubes out of an old projector)
So yes, whoever posted before, I am going for the knee-deep DIY approach, which involves lots of complicated electronics. But it's fun and the results will be great. I just hope we're not all dead and buried before I get round to finding some results. I'm getting a nice new digital camera all my own next week so watch this space for lots of pics.
Let me just add that I do not advocate the "Big Woody" at all, or any other 100" TV offering which uses a cheap fresnel and a behemoth TV. Not sure about the other CRT guys but what I'm developing is essentially a scaled down version of the commercial CRT based projector, using high quality optics, with no fresnels in site. I'm sure you remember my post several pages back explaining why I wasn't going for the LCD approach yet.
I'm actually going to start experimenting with high-brightness 5" CRTs from inside a real CRT projector, which will solve the brightness and colour issues, and also the flat screen problems. Only thing is they scare the hell out of me because they're big buggers and could give me one hell of a shock. But once again they were free so I can't complain. That will be next week's project. And I'll still offer advice on the route using cheap normal TVs as before.
As an extension to that - if you are using nice single-colour CRTs, where you don't care about the aperture grid or whatever, because they don't have one, you can build your own relatively cheap control circuitry for the CRT beam, which would offer increased resolution over the old electronics which controlled it before. (presuming you stole the tubes out of an old projector)
So yes, whoever posted before, I am going for the knee-deep DIY approach, which involves lots of complicated electronics. But it's fun and the results will be great. I just hope we're not all dead and buried before I get round to finding some results. I'm getting a nice new digital camera all my own next week so watch this space for lots of pics.
found a new light source!
Hello,
It has been a while since I have last posted. I have been very busy with school but have kept up reading all the posts. Anyway, After searching for a light source the only thing that I could find was the 500W halogen worklight. Searched everywhere for at least an LOA but no luck until I took a trip to my local hunting and camping store. I found my holy grail! It is a 100W halogen handheld spotlight.($40) that produces 2,000,000 candlepower!!! Since this is similar to a flash light most of my light was directed directly at my LCD. I DO NOT have blurry edges!! They are nice and clear. This blows the worklight away and runs a lot cooler, brighter, and whiter.I have not been able to do very many tests with it because I am very busy.
There is one downside to this light. It is run off a rechargeable battery and unfortionately the battery only lasts for 20 min. and you can't run it off the plug that was supplied with it because that is just to SLOWLY charge it. Would I be able run it off an AC/DC converter if I disconnected it from the battery?
Im sorry but I donot have pics yet. When I get them would someone be able post them?
I have to get going. Running late for class.
Chris
Hello,
It has been a while since I have last posted. I have been very busy with school but have kept up reading all the posts. Anyway, After searching for a light source the only thing that I could find was the 500W halogen worklight. Searched everywhere for at least an LOA but no luck until I took a trip to my local hunting and camping store. I found my holy grail! It is a 100W halogen handheld spotlight.($40) that produces 2,000,000 candlepower!!! Since this is similar to a flash light most of my light was directed directly at my LCD. I DO NOT have blurry edges!! They are nice and clear. This blows the worklight away and runs a lot cooler, brighter, and whiter.I have not been able to do very many tests with it because I am very busy.
There is one downside to this light. It is run off a rechargeable battery and unfortionately the battery only lasts for 20 min. and you can't run it off the plug that was supplied with it because that is just to SLOWLY charge it. Would I be able run it off an AC/DC converter if I disconnected it from the battery?
Im sorry but I donot have pics yet. When I get them would someone be able post them?
I have to get going. Running late for class.
Chris
Waiting....
HI guys..
It's been a while since I last posted here, mostly because I haven't done much with this project lately. I'm finding the CRT discussion on here extremely interesting. If I could find 3 small flat B&W CRTs then it shouldn't be too hard to rig up.
Does anyone have the projector.zip file Myren posted? I noticed that the directory that it's supposed to be in that contained pics of his OHP etc is accessable, but there is no projector.zip file. Myren, if you're reading, I'm ready to buy a VG150- But I would _really_ appreciate seeing it's deconstruction first. Thank you.
Another really interesting thread is the laser projector thread. This approach offers the best of both worlds(CRT and LCD). Multiple scanning rates, and extreme brightness. Plus the added bonus of low power consumption, and long life. There are lasers out there that can produce the entire visible light spectrum(or close to it). This would be the way to go rather than red, green and blue lasers(green and blue being very expensive). Anyway, food for thought.
HI guys..
It's been a while since I last posted here, mostly because I haven't done much with this project lately. I'm finding the CRT discussion on here extremely interesting. If I could find 3 small flat B&W CRTs then it shouldn't be too hard to rig up.
Does anyone have the projector.zip file Myren posted? I noticed that the directory that it's supposed to be in that contained pics of his OHP etc is accessable, but there is no projector.zip file. Myren, if you're reading, I'm ready to buy a VG150- But I would _really_ appreciate seeing it's deconstruction first. Thank you.
Another really interesting thread is the laser projector thread. This approach offers the best of both worlds(CRT and LCD). Multiple scanning rates, and extreme brightness. Plus the added bonus of low power consumption, and long life. There are lasers out there that can produce the entire visible light spectrum(or close to it). This would be the way to go rather than red, green and blue lasers(green and blue being very expensive). Anyway, food for thought.
light
Just something i've been throwing around in my head, I work for an audi dealer and i'm pretty sure our warranty section has just recieved a damaged xenon gas headlight assembly - but the lighting side of it OK. Considering the blinding nature of these devices, it might be perfect for my first LCD attempt (as long as my ebay bid holds up!!)..any thoughts on these globes? it includes the controller so all I have to do is hook up 12v to the controller and close my eyes 🙂
Just something i've been throwing around in my head, I work for an audi dealer and i'm pretty sure our warranty section has just recieved a damaged xenon gas headlight assembly - but the lighting side of it OK. Considering the blinding nature of these devices, it might be perfect for my first LCD attempt (as long as my ebay bid holds up!!)..any thoughts on these globes? it includes the controller so all I have to do is hook up 12v to the controller and close my eyes 🙂
Re: found a new light source!
Should work as long as you get a twelve volt power supply with appropriate amperage.
There is one downside to this light. It is run off a rechargeable battery and unfortionately the battery only lasts for 20 min. and you can't run it off the plug that was supplied with it because that is just to SLOWLY charge it. Would I be able run it off an AC/DC converter if I disconnected it from the battery?
Should work as long as you get a twelve volt power supply with appropriate amperage.
There is one downside to this light. It is run off a rechargeable battery and unfortionately the battery only lasts for 20 min. and you can't run it off the plug that was supplied with it because that is just to SLOWLY charge it. Would I be able run it off an AC/DC converter if I disconnected it from the battery?
jjasniew
jjasniew
Thanks for the pictures of your LCDs guts, I'd love to have one of these monitors, especially at that price, The cheapest LCDs are around £300. Too much for a poor student like myself.
Anyway, thaks for the pictures, at least I've an idea of what I'll be doing once I find myself a display.
Nick.😡
jjasniew
Thanks for the pictures of your LCDs guts, I'd love to have one of these monitors, especially at that price, The cheapest LCDs are around £300. Too much for a poor student like myself.
Anyway, thaks for the pictures, at least I've an idea of what I'll be doing once I find myself a display.
Nick.😡
Gav
I thought about using xenon car headlights for my assembly, but canceled it because they all are just 70W. I don't know if the xenon lights are more efficient than my HQI bulb, but mine has 400W, which is enough, but not extremely bright (not using a proper reflector...). I would love to know if the xenons work, since they are a LOT closer to a point-like lightsource than mine.
I still think they might work well with a white screen. I don't want to talk you into it, but I think you should try it.
BTW, I was asked to post screenshots of the image my setup produces, but with the camera I had that was
impossible. With those pictures you would get a totally wrong idea.
Frankbatzen
I thought about using xenon car headlights for my assembly, but canceled it because they all are just 70W. I don't know if the xenon lights are more efficient than my HQI bulb, but mine has 400W, which is enough, but not extremely bright (not using a proper reflector...). I would love to know if the xenons work, since they are a LOT closer to a point-like lightsource than mine.
I still think they might work well with a white screen. I don't want to talk you into it, but I think you should try it.
BTW, I was asked to post screenshots of the image my setup produces, but with the camera I had that was
impossible. With those pictures you would get a totally wrong idea.
Frankbatzen
AC/DC converter
Timtimes
Basic electronics says that a lightbulb only lets a fixed amount of current through at a fixed voltidge. Therefor, if You provide the right voltidge coresponding to that from the battery, You should be fine.
But look out for any other electronics inside the flashlight and if any, do NOT bypass them. Hock the converter to the battery conector. There might be some kind of regulator that holds the current down but I do not think so.
BUT DO NOT TAKE MY WORD FOR IT! GET A SECOND OPINION!
Bye for now
Timtimes
Basic electronics says that a lightbulb only lets a fixed amount of current through at a fixed voltidge. Therefor, if You provide the right voltidge coresponding to that from the battery, You should be fine.
But look out for any other electronics inside the flashlight and if any, do NOT bypass them. Hock the converter to the battery conector. There might be some kind of regulator that holds the current down but I do not think so.
BUT DO NOT TAKE MY WORD FOR IT! GET A SECOND OPINION!
Bye for now
It's good to see people are thinking like me.
A few days ago I was asking about candlepower compared to lumens...This was because I had been thinking of getting one of those 2,000,000 candle (hand held) spotlights as well. I know they are extremly bright, the light is already reflected, and the run quite cool. I never even thought aboiut the fact that most are battery powered.
I was also considering those xeon headlights as well...but when looking for my answer about candle power I found a message forum geared towards flashlights and found that car lights really aren't that terribly powerful as opposed to other light sources...they are just focussed...but I had been meaning to ask others here because I still think they are damn bright and could do the job. My biggest concern would be their blue tint.
Good luck with these two ideas I would love to know if they work well. I just ordered an Elmo projector and I am figuring out what LCD monitor to take apart...I will eventually move away from the Elmo but want to get something going quick to get me all giggly and motivated.
Later,
Dave
A few days ago I was asking about candlepower compared to lumens...This was because I had been thinking of getting one of those 2,000,000 candle (hand held) spotlights as well. I know they are extremly bright, the light is already reflected, and the run quite cool. I never even thought aboiut the fact that most are battery powered.
I was also considering those xeon headlights as well...but when looking for my answer about candle power I found a message forum geared towards flashlights and found that car lights really aren't that terribly powerful as opposed to other light sources...they are just focussed...but I had been meaning to ask others here because I still think they are damn bright and could do the job. My biggest concern would be their blue tint.
Good luck with these two ideas I would love to know if they work well. I just ordered an Elmo projector and I am figuring out what LCD monitor to take apart...I will eventually move away from the Elmo but want to get something going quick to get me all giggly and motivated.
Later,
Dave
ohh jjasniew
jjasniew, in response to your photos, I loved them...Thats exactly the kind of things I like to see and I plan on trying to do the same with my project.
Since you seem to want to talk about it I have some questions...
It seems to me that you end up with a completely unobstructed view through the LCD with the circuiboards where they are in your last picture...I know the cable doesnt allow you to move the board much but cant you get around this fairly easily by just mouting it perpindicular to the LCD? Or am I completely missing the point???
I dont remember who it was that was using the VG150 project...but does it look quite similar to this??? I never got to get those pictures.
I had been looking for a 15 (preferably smaller) monitor with a higher contrast ratio than 350 but cant seem to find any undre $500 so I had anticipated going with the VG150...but for $150 (MY GOD IS HE CRAZY) I may have to go with the VP140 and screw the CR and Response time for now.
Please Please Please tell me if I am right that there is an unobstructed view throught the display but the PCB relocation is quite limitted.
Thanks,
Dave
jjasniew, in response to your photos, I loved them...Thats exactly the kind of things I like to see and I plan on trying to do the same with my project.
Since you seem to want to talk about it I have some questions...
It seems to me that you end up with a completely unobstructed view through the LCD with the circuiboards where they are in your last picture...I know the cable doesnt allow you to move the board much but cant you get around this fairly easily by just mouting it perpindicular to the LCD? Or am I completely missing the point???
I dont remember who it was that was using the VG150 project...but does it look quite similar to this??? I never got to get those pictures.
I had been looking for a 15 (preferably smaller) monitor with a higher contrast ratio than 350 but cant seem to find any undre $500 so I had anticipated going with the VG150...but for $150 (MY GOD IS HE CRAZY) I may have to go with the VP140 and screw the CR and Response time for now.
Please Please Please tell me if I am right that there is an unobstructed view throught the display but the PCB relocation is quite limitted.
Thanks,
Dave
In participation...
I'm glad I stirred things up!
I looked up the cabling suggestion from Germany and it looks like it'd solve the problem. However, I see no option for sales in the US, so it may not be viable from over here. Probably should check it out.
I would not assume that Telamon cant ship overseas - I'd check it out via e-mail to Lynette.
Yes, for the vp140 an unobstructed shot through the LCD is possible - provided you can solve the PCB relocation cabling problem.
This of course implies that you can simultaneously solve the mounting and cooling problem for both PCBs, so that along with the panel, it all fits atop the OHP.
There's a lady here at work who does precision soldering. she said she'd help me extend the cable. I'll likely give it a try next week and will report the results here -
I'm seriously considering bidding on a 9" CRT Barco on ebay. Here's a picture of the insides, for all those going the 3X CRT route, as an example of such an arrangement -
I think the 50X brightness over normal you'll need to see anything on a big screen show may not be possible, w/o some real special tubes. The tubes in the Barco shown are liquid cooled, because there's so much energy hitting the phosphors to get the required brightness. (Take a straight-on look through the LCD panel atop a 7K lumen OHP, to see how bright that really is...)
I'm glad I stirred things up!
I looked up the cabling suggestion from Germany and it looks like it'd solve the problem. However, I see no option for sales in the US, so it may not be viable from over here. Probably should check it out.
I would not assume that Telamon cant ship overseas - I'd check it out via e-mail to Lynette.
Yes, for the vp140 an unobstructed shot through the LCD is possible - provided you can solve the PCB relocation cabling problem.
This of course implies that you can simultaneously solve the mounting and cooling problem for both PCBs, so that along with the panel, it all fits atop the OHP.
There's a lady here at work who does precision soldering. she said she'd help me extend the cable. I'll likely give it a try next week and will report the results here -
I'm seriously considering bidding on a 9" CRT Barco on ebay. Here's a picture of the insides, for all those going the 3X CRT route, as an example of such an arrangement -
I think the 50X brightness over normal you'll need to see anything on a big screen show may not be possible, w/o some real special tubes. The tubes in the Barco shown are liquid cooled, because there's so much energy hitting the phosphors to get the required brightness. (Take a straight-on look through the LCD panel atop a 7K lumen OHP, to see how bright that really is...)
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