240volts
Well Once again living in Australia has stuffed me up. While look for my projection globe I have found that all projection globes i have found that are 640watt 12 thousand lumen only last 50 hours. While I can get lower light output ones that last slightly longer there is no point. Think I stuck paying $30 every 50 hours. Myren how come the heat in your projector was ok even with out a cold mirror? I also lern't cold mirrors make light whiter becuase it takes away the red part of the light. Does anyone know of what globe I could use?
Well Once again living in Australia has stuffed me up. While look for my projection globe I have found that all projection globes i have found that are 640watt 12 thousand lumen only last 50 hours. While I can get lower light output ones that last slightly longer there is no point. Think I stuck paying $30 every 50 hours. Myren how come the heat in your projector was ok even with out a cold mirror? I also lern't cold mirrors make light whiter becuase it takes away the red part of the light. Does anyone know of what globe I could use?
Gunawan: When you switch the transparency to LCD it won't be bright anymore.
Another thing to note that unless you are designing "dim-picture produced in absolutely no ambient light" projector the box leaking light in testing phase won't matter. I can keep my furniture-door open when testing and it still produces watchable image. And in my posted results pictures you can see the lightsource is not even in the box! OHP (lightsources) vary from 1000 lumens to 11000 lumens so I wouldn't agree in the ohp-lightsource woudn't be powerful enough. But you're right about the 250w one, that won't be enough.
Soje: Thanks for the idea. Cool edited pic🙂 Originally I thought that I would put one fan opposite the two ones to push the air through, check my msg/pic (if you're up to) at page 36, "option" 3. These would have been in the side walls, but in the end I wanted to use the back wall because it's thinner stuff than the other walls (easier to do the holes) and the light leaking would go there. I'll have to look in to that tube thing, I'll have to figure out where to get some (altough this shouldn't be a problem).
The fresnel is lying on two wooden pieces now. Today I tried to add two more wooden pieces as demonstrated in the picture:
Similiar thing was implemented in my ohp. And it actually helps a bit, sort of. The fresnel only gets hot from the center now. Downside is that I can't see the whole picture anymore. Well the pieces are too big for now.
Another thing to note that unless you are designing "dim-picture produced in absolutely no ambient light" projector the box leaking light in testing phase won't matter. I can keep my furniture-door open when testing and it still produces watchable image. And in my posted results pictures you can see the lightsource is not even in the box! OHP (lightsources) vary from 1000 lumens to 11000 lumens so I wouldn't agree in the ohp-lightsource woudn't be powerful enough. But you're right about the 250w one, that won't be enough.
Soje: Thanks for the idea. Cool edited pic🙂 Originally I thought that I would put one fan opposite the two ones to push the air through, check my msg/pic (if you're up to) at page 36, "option" 3. These would have been in the side walls, but in the end I wanted to use the back wall because it's thinner stuff than the other walls (easier to do the holes) and the light leaking would go there. I'll have to look in to that tube thing, I'll have to figure out where to get some (altough this shouldn't be a problem).
The fresnel is lying on two wooden pieces now. Today I tried to add two more wooden pieces as demonstrated in the picture:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Similiar thing was implemented in my ohp. And it actually helps a bit, sort of. The fresnel only gets hot from the center now. Downside is that I can't see the whole picture anymore. Well the pieces are too big for now.
Gunawan I'm sorry I misread your msg a bit.
But if do your test with LCD that way you won't see a _thing_ (with car light anyway). Although I can't be sure!!
But the thing about the leaking light applies anyway, just if the lightsource is not aimed straight to the projection wall as you had.
But if do your test with LCD that way you won't see a _thing_ (with car light anyway). Although I can't be sure!!
But the thing about the leaking light applies anyway, just if the lightsource is not aimed straight to the projection wall as you had.
I'll have to add that I don't mean to be negative, so I'll correct that I'm just sceptic about it. But if you find out that it's good with LCD too it's definetly a good thing!
Bitch,
I suggest cool air (or outside air) intakes at the bottom and exhust at the top.
Problem is- dust near the floor.
I suggest cool air (or outside air) intakes at the bottom and exhust at the top.
Problem is- dust near the floor.
New Source
Just one more guy trying to build his own. I haven't gotten my lcd yet, it ships Monday, but am having a great time playing with optics. I stumbled across this site on the net. They have all kinds of lens', first surface mirrors, filters, and fans and they are CHEAP! http://www.sciplus.com/. Good luck to all, and thanks for sharing your trials and tribulations.
Just one more guy trying to build his own. I haven't gotten my lcd yet, it ships Monday, but am having a great time playing with optics. I stumbled across this site on the net. They have all kinds of lens', first surface mirrors, filters, and fans and they are CHEAP! http://www.sciplus.com/. Good luck to all, and thanks for sharing your trials and tribulations.
Another LOA equivalent
Just walked into Home Depot and found a display of 65W fluorex lamps from Lumark. The bulbs are priced the same as the LOA's (~$14) but the complete system (security outdoor housing + ballast + bulb) is (~$35); unfortunately they don't have the worklight version. The comparative lumen rating on the bulb package claims +6500 lumens.
Just walked into Home Depot and found a display of 65W fluorex lamps from Lumark. The bulbs are priced the same as the LOA's (~$14) but the complete system (security outdoor housing + ballast + bulb) is (~$35); unfortunately they don't have the worklight version. The comparative lumen rating on the bulb package claims +6500 lumens.
I gave the car light a second thought tonight.
I could easily fit two of them in to my setup and I could place them in the bottom of the thing. I am intrested about it.
When driving to the parking lot I actually tried the "high beam" to the wall of our house, yes it is bright but it's just hard to say would it work with lcd. It would definetly be easy-to-get. Although I don't know about the powersource for it. I would remember that somebody on this thread has actually tried the carlight but couldn't get enough power to it.
I'm sorry I misjudged your idea too fastly Gunawan.
If you are able to do a test with lcd then please! But as I understood you actually did the test at your car but you would probably need somesort of enclosure or at least cover the other light of the car. With transparency you'll have no light loss whatsoever. With the lcd you'll get 10% of the light through and the lights straightly aimed to your wall the 100% light will beat the 10%.
I could easily fit two of them in to my setup and I could place them in the bottom of the thing. I am intrested about it.
When driving to the parking lot I actually tried the "high beam" to the wall of our house, yes it is bright but it's just hard to say would it work with lcd. It would definetly be easy-to-get. Although I don't know about the powersource for it. I would remember that somebody on this thread has actually tried the carlight but couldn't get enough power to it.
I'm sorry I misjudged your idea too fastly Gunawan.
If you are able to do a test with lcd then please! But as I understood you actually did the test at your car but you would probably need somesort of enclosure or at least cover the other light of the car. With transparency you'll have no light loss whatsoever. With the lcd you'll get 10% of the light through and the lights straightly aimed to your wall the 100% light will beat the 10%.
RESEARCH
Hi All, Not sure I'm in line here, but why don,t a few of you pool your money together and get something like this; http://www.projectorcentral.com/used_projectors_details.cfm?classified_id=5617
Tear it apart and see what makes it tick.It's pretty cheap considering. Then you can share you findings with everyone else. I know it's cheating but it's just a suggestion. Sorry if the add. is'nt hi-lited
OL MAN THUNTER
Hi All, Not sure I'm in line here, but why don,t a few of you pool your money together and get something like this; http://www.projectorcentral.com/used_projectors_details.cfm?classified_id=5617
Tear it apart and see what makes it tick.It's pretty cheap considering. Then you can share you findings with everyone else. I know it's cheating but it's just a suggestion. Sorry if the add. is'nt hi-lited
OL MAN THUNTER
That would be a shame to take it apart, because there is really nothing too it. It's not the theory, it's the parts. Lamps that last and are cool seem to be what everyone here is trying to aquire.
I have pictures of one already taken apart. Looks much like the one in your link, Thunter. It's nothing more than a
reflector>lamp>lense> frensel>lcd>frensel>projection lense.
Take one apart and it will be about the same, unless it's a 3 LCD projector, then it gets more complicated.
Keep the ideas coming!
Vince
I have pictures of one already taken apart. Looks much like the one in your link, Thunter. It's nothing more than a
reflector>lamp>lense> frensel>lcd>frensel>projection lense.
Take one apart and it will be about the same, unless it's a 3 LCD projector, then it gets more complicated.
Keep the ideas coming!
Vince
VINCE
VINCE, Well I figured as much. Wasn't sure if you could get some possible part #'s or something along those lines. Also ; if everything is the same ,then why can they get everything in such a small case, and all our cabinets are substantialy larger? My thought is that ,this is why we're having trouble with the lighting. If you have a smaller area that won't dispers the light therefore more will be concentrated to the point of impact. Hell I don't know. Have you ever tried to shine the light source through a "tube"(shiny tube)? Would that concentrate the light more so or no? Well just thought I would send some usless jiberish your way.
THUNTER
P.S.(you guys are doin a great job, keep it up)
VINCE, Well I figured as much. Wasn't sure if you could get some possible part #'s or something along those lines. Also ; if everything is the same ,then why can they get everything in such a small case, and all our cabinets are substantialy larger? My thought is that ,this is why we're having trouble with the lighting. If you have a smaller area that won't dispers the light therefore more will be concentrated to the point of impact. Hell I don't know. Have you ever tried to shine the light source through a "tube"(shiny tube)? Would that concentrate the light more so or no? Well just thought I would send some usless jiberish your way.
THUNTER
P.S.(you guys are doin a great job, keep it up)
UV filter
Well I was looking inside an old slide projector of mine, and removed the UV filter, I then placed it over the globe inside my OHP and put the cover back down and turned it on, there was no noticable light loss and it almost clear with the tinnest barly noticable tint to it. I placed my hand ontop of the fresnel lens expecting the ussual magnified heat you feel, and there was nothing, it had cut out all the heat! I had it running for 1 min and I heard the sound of breaking glass. I tunred it off and opened the cover and the filter had shatter, it is quite thick yet is had shatter, it was only a 250watt globe but it was too hot. This shows that instead of a cold mirror we could use one of these that can take more heat and this makes aligment of the optics easier. Rember that the filiment has to be aligented with the center of the fresnel lens, it may also work better to use a condenser lens then the fresnel. I am now going to look for a good UV filter!
Well I was looking inside an old slide projector of mine, and removed the UV filter, I then placed it over the globe inside my OHP and put the cover back down and turned it on, there was no noticable light loss and it almost clear with the tinnest barly noticable tint to it. I placed my hand ontop of the fresnel lens expecting the ussual magnified heat you feel, and there was nothing, it had cut out all the heat! I had it running for 1 min and I heard the sound of breaking glass. I tunred it off and opened the cover and the filter had shatter, it is quite thick yet is had shatter, it was only a 250watt globe but it was too hot. This shows that instead of a cold mirror we could use one of these that can take more heat and this makes aligment of the optics easier. Rember that the filiment has to be aligented with the center of the fresnel lens, it may also work better to use a condenser lens then the fresnel. I am now going to look for a good UV filter!
Thunter
I am not sure you understand our objectives here.
Which is to make a projector that can be used to view movies and for some tv. The projector you mentioned (Infocus LitePro 570LS) is not suitable for our intended use, it is just not good enough for that.
We "know" how they work,
We "know" how to build them,
We "want to know" how to build the best one we can,
We "want to know" how to build them cheaply,
We "want to know" how to do it with surplus or off the shelf items,
Again its not that we dont know how to do it, its that we dont want to pay thousands to have one.
We dont want to buy a new $450.00 lamp every 40 to 100 hours of use.
Im ranting again.
later
I am not sure you understand our objectives here.
Which is to make a projector that can be used to view movies and for some tv. The projector you mentioned (Infocus LitePro 570LS) is not suitable for our intended use, it is just not good enough for that.
We "know" how they work,
We "know" how to build them,
We "want to know" how to build the best one we can,
We "want to know" how to build them cheaply,
We "want to know" how to do it with surplus or off the shelf items,
Again its not that we dont know how to do it, its that we dont want to pay thousands to have one.
We dont want to buy a new $450.00 lamp every 40 to 100 hours of use.
Im ranting again.
later
I still don't get what does colour temp means? 6700K? does it mean it'll get as hot as 6700 k?
What is the average temp that a LCD can w/ stand?
What is the average temp that a LCD can w/ stand?
Bitch,
sorry, I can't do experiment with real LCD panel, because my PS1 LCD panel that I used to play was broken last month. I substitued it with some kind of tranparency made from 3 layers of thick plastic, I think it was close to real LCD to pass the light, why, because I did some experiment with PS1 LCD panel before, using 300 watts halogen floodlight, the output was dimmed.
Base on it, I made a transparency with output as closed to that experiment (dimmed).
Maybe I made it more transparent compared with real LCD, I don't know, but IMO car headlamp has an advantage,
it's cheap and have a high focused reflector which is has very important role to handle the light not bounching around in the box.
Color temp. of Halogen lamp is around 3000 dK.
BTW, has anybody try using Metal-Halide lamp such as
MHNTD or HPIT type?
sorry, I can't do experiment with real LCD panel, because my PS1 LCD panel that I used to play was broken last month. I substitued it with some kind of tranparency made from 3 layers of thick plastic, I think it was close to real LCD to pass the light, why, because I did some experiment with PS1 LCD panel before, using 300 watts halogen floodlight, the output was dimmed.
Base on it, I made a transparency with output as closed to that experiment (dimmed).
Maybe I made it more transparent compared with real LCD, I don't know, but IMO car headlamp has an advantage,
it's cheap and have a high focused reflector which is has very important role to handle the light not bounching around in the box.
Color temp. of Halogen lamp is around 3000 dK.
BTW, has anybody try using Metal-Halide lamp such as
MHNTD or HPIT type?
Thunter,
Some of the guys are taking the over head projector route.
I have gone the route proposed in my previous post: with everything in series in a smaller container. I very much like the LOA light source. I think it has promise. But I'm hoping someday to use LEDs, because they ARE the closest source to natural light there is; without too much UV. This creates much heat!
I'm dedicating Tuesday of this week to finishing my projector. I have the whole day to myself. I hope I can pull it off!🙄
Vince
Some of the guys are taking the over head projector route.
I have gone the route proposed in my previous post: with everything in series in a smaller container. I very much like the LOA light source. I think it has promise. But I'm hoping someday to use LEDs, because they ARE the closest source to natural light there is; without too much UV. This creates much heat!
I'm dedicating Tuesday of this week to finishing my projector. I have the whole day to myself. I hope I can pull it off!🙄
Vince
- Status
- Not open for further replies.