Proxima Ovation A820
ok, i've got my grubby little hands on a Proxima "Ovation A820" panel, yet it is sans (without) power adapter... is there anyone here that has any info on this part? i'd like to obviously get this item working, but i cant. so yeah. little help?
ok, i've got my grubby little hands on a Proxima "Ovation A820" panel, yet it is sans (without) power adapter... is there anyone here that has any info on this part? i'd like to obviously get this item working, but i cant. so yeah. little help?
Hi,
Is the Ovation 820 12volt? does it say any voltages/amperes on the unit?
If its 12v try one of those adaptors you can get that have about 6 different attachments at the end of the cable
They are only low current them adaptors so i doubt it would fry anything (no responsibility accepted 🙂 🙂 )
If all else fails, ask proxima 🙂
Cya,
Is the Ovation 820 12volt? does it say any voltages/amperes on the unit?
If its 12v try one of those adaptors you can get that have about 6 different attachments at the end of the cable
They are only low current them adaptors so i doubt it would fry anything (no responsibility accepted 🙂 🙂 )
If all else fails, ask proxima 🙂
Cya,
yeah just above the socket there is some markings, that would indicate the voltage and the polarity...but they have scratched off. so i don't know, if someone has this model, then maybe they can tell me. yes. ah yeah. and the proxima website "contact us" section seems to be suffering one of those lovely 404 errors
I don't know about the 820, but I have the 810, and the powersupply is connected with a 5 pin DIN plug. (like the old AT keyboard plugs). On the back of my power supply is the following pinout:
Pin 1,2 = Return
Pin 3 = +5 Volts @ 3 Amp
Pin 4 = -5 Volts @ 0.3 Amp
Pin 5 = +12 Volts @ 2 Amp
So the obvious is that it is muliple voltages. Amperage is 2 Amps, and I remember that I had trouble finding a 12v AC/DC adapter above like 500 mA for a keyboard that needed 800mA. It seems like a PC power supply might be the best way to go. Hope this helps.
Pin 1,2 = Return
Pin 3 = +5 Volts @ 3 Amp
Pin 4 = -5 Volts @ 0.3 Amp
Pin 5 = +12 Volts @ 2 Amp
So the obvious is that it is muliple voltages. Amperage is 2 Amps, and I remember that I had trouble finding a 12v AC/DC adapter above like 500 mA for a keyboard that needed 800mA. It seems like a PC power supply might be the best way to go. Hope this helps.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
As an amendment to my last post, 2 inches from where the pinout is on the powersupply is a huge, fat, blindingly yellow sticker that says "Caution: use exclusively with Proxima Ovation A822c, A812c, A820c, & A810c." So i bet that info is what you need.
I found an old AT keyboard cable I have (don't know where the actual keyboard is) and the pins are in the same exact configuration. The only thing is that the pins are a little larger in diameter. Generally there are pressure clips in the sockets, so it Should fit, but that would mean that if later down the road, you got an actual proxima powersupply, it would no longer fit.
oftheend...
questions with your reflector? So did you basically just cut the cans open to create flat sheets of metal? And then roll them into a parabola? Also are they shaped like a parabola or more like just a cone?
When I was at HomeDepot wandering around for ideas I found sheets of aluminum that were of various sizes and were easily bendable. I didnt buy this becuase I figured I could not get it into a parabola but rather just a cone... I figure that since my shiny metal bowl didnt work to greth that the not-as-shiny-metal-parabola wouldnt work either...
So...if your new setup is working I would love to know how well and a little better how it ws setup. This is very exciting for me because I just need to sort out my as you do/did.
Dave
questions with your reflector? So did you basically just cut the cans open to create flat sheets of metal? And then roll them into a parabola? Also are they shaped like a parabola or more like just a cone?
When I was at HomeDepot wandering around for ideas I found sheets of aluminum that were of various sizes and were easily bendable. I didnt buy this becuase I figured I could not get it into a parabola but rather just a cone... I figure that since my shiny metal bowl didnt work to greth that the not-as-shiny-metal-parabola wouldnt work either...
So...if your new setup is working I would love to know how well and a little better how it ws setup. This is very exciting for me because I just need to sort out my as you do/did.
Dave
SuperDave:
Right now I have them bent as a parabola, a U shape. Basically like below.
From Top:
---- ... ====
---- .............===
---- .................. ==
---- ........................||
-L- .........................||
-C- ..............{mv}..||
-D- ........................||
---- .......................||
---- ....................==
---- .............===
---- ..====
There is nothing reflecting from the top or bottom, it is just on left and right sides. Without buying something pre-formed, I dont think you can make a perfect reflector. For my purposes this is working fine, about 50% brighter than the light alone, or with that stupid reflector that came with it. If i added a couple more cans, it would prob. be brighter.
.......... | ..........|
.......... |...........|
----------------------------
Cris-cross and fill in corners
--------------------- ------
...........|...........|
...........|...........|
The mv is cool enough that I can touch it while running (did it by accident), so I have the mv about 3 inches from the lcd, and the coffee cans 1/2 inch away from the MV from behind. The end of the cans towards the front touch the panel about 1/4 inch to the left and right of the viewable lcd. Adding a top, bottom and some vented corners would contain like 90% of the light.
Interesting note, This MV light uses ballast H39. The 175 watt MH uses M57. On some MH bulb sites, I have found the required ballast listed as M57/H39. Another site spoke of the history of MV and MH, including ballasts. The same ballast can sometimes be used for MH and MV is what i have gathered. Some ballasts/bulbs, list this specifically, but i have not found something that says in bold letters "You can use 175w MH in H39 ballast". I do have a 175 w MH bulb, but I have not been brave enough to test it yet.
On a side note on brightness: Finding it useless as a whole for my setup, I took apart my Delta HD-10 lens, and scored big time. Inside there are two heavy glass Bi-convex lenses, 3 plastic lenses used mainly to protect the good optics, and two minuscis lesnses aranged back to back in a sealed disc to form a bi-concave lens. The bi-concave lens reduces the lcd, at a focal length of about 1 inch, and when the bi-convex is placed in front, it projects. I can adjust throw distance by moving these two slightly, and best of all the picture is much Brighter, and much clearer. Of course i was using a fresnal before, but the Diff. is amazing. Shows what good quality optics do.... Counting down the days for my 250 watt MH now.
Right now I have them bent as a parabola, a U shape. Basically like below.
From Top:
---- ... ====
---- .............===
---- .................. ==
---- ........................||
-L- .........................||
-C- ..............{mv}..||
-D- ........................||
---- .......................||
---- ....................==
---- .............===
---- ..====
There is nothing reflecting from the top or bottom, it is just on left and right sides. Without buying something pre-formed, I dont think you can make a perfect reflector. For my purposes this is working fine, about 50% brighter than the light alone, or with that stupid reflector that came with it. If i added a couple more cans, it would prob. be brighter.
.......... | ..........|
.......... |...........|
----------------------------
Cris-cross and fill in corners
--------------------- ------
...........|...........|
...........|...........|
The mv is cool enough that I can touch it while running (did it by accident), so I have the mv about 3 inches from the lcd, and the coffee cans 1/2 inch away from the MV from behind. The end of the cans towards the front touch the panel about 1/4 inch to the left and right of the viewable lcd. Adding a top, bottom and some vented corners would contain like 90% of the light.
Interesting note, This MV light uses ballast H39. The 175 watt MH uses M57. On some MH bulb sites, I have found the required ballast listed as M57/H39. Another site spoke of the history of MV and MH, including ballasts. The same ballast can sometimes be used for MH and MV is what i have gathered. Some ballasts/bulbs, list this specifically, but i have not found something that says in bold letters "You can use 175w MH in H39 ballast". I do have a 175 w MH bulb, but I have not been brave enough to test it yet.
On a side note on brightness: Finding it useless as a whole for my setup, I took apart my Delta HD-10 lens, and scored big time. Inside there are two heavy glass Bi-convex lenses, 3 plastic lenses used mainly to protect the good optics, and two minuscis lesnses aranged back to back in a sealed disc to form a bi-concave lens. The bi-concave lens reduces the lcd, at a focal length of about 1 inch, and when the bi-convex is placed in front, it projects. I can adjust throw distance by moving these two slightly, and best of all the picture is much Brighter, and much clearer. Of course i was using a fresnal before, but the Diff. is amazing. Shows what good quality optics do.... Counting down the days for my 250 watt MH now.
Ofthend...Cool!
The pic answers my questions as to your setup...However, I know have new questions.
1) Are you still using a Fresnel. I understood from your post that you are no longer using it.
2) If you are not using a fresnel...how are you getting your image to converge from top to bottome( Y axis). Since your parabolic reflector is straight along the Y axis it seems to me that you would end up with a tall/thin image...whats up?
3) If you aren't using a fresnel...is your image still nice??? How dark does your room need to be?
The pic answers my questions as to your setup...However, I know have new questions.
1) Are you still using a Fresnel. I understood from your post that you are no longer using it.
2) If you are not using a fresnel...how are you getting your image to converge from top to bottome( Y axis). Since your parabolic reflector is straight along the Y axis it seems to me that you would end up with a tall/thin image...whats up?
3) If you aren't using a fresnel...is your image still nice??? How dark does your room need to be?
excellent, thanks Ofthend. it's now time to attack an old AT power supply with my soldering iron. thanks.
SuperDave:
1) My original setup had a fresnal behind the lcd to distribute the light to the screen and one as the projection lens itself (like the "100 inch TV" setups). I kept the fresnal that is behind the lcd, and replaced the "projection" fresnal as i had planned to do once i found the appropriate lens.
2) Even with the fresnal behind the screen, the image seemed a little squareish, I have not tested it in full dark yet with the new lens. I would add a reflector to the top and bottom to try to get more light through, but I am getting my 250 watt MH later this week, so i don't think i will bother. This MV will become the light in my attic for the pool table.
3) With the new projection lens, the picture is extremely sharp, with adjustable throw distances. Brightness, however, is the issue. It is getting dusk now, and my picture is not very visible. I will try at full dark and let you know. There is a lot of light leaking from my box right now, so that is a definate part of the problem. But as i said, MH is coming, so i will not waste too much time on retooling this setup just to do it again when the new light comes. The MH has a reflector an removable diffuser built in, so i think it will be easy to set up. $34 + 30 shipping. I also do not like the MV color rendering, my images seem green no matter what i do.
I might try popping that 175 MH bulb i have into this lamp, (maybe take the fixture outside first).
1) My original setup had a fresnal behind the lcd to distribute the light to the screen and one as the projection lens itself (like the "100 inch TV" setups). I kept the fresnal that is behind the lcd, and replaced the "projection" fresnal as i had planned to do once i found the appropriate lens.
2) Even with the fresnal behind the screen, the image seemed a little squareish, I have not tested it in full dark yet with the new lens. I would add a reflector to the top and bottom to try to get more light through, but I am getting my 250 watt MH later this week, so i don't think i will bother. This MV will become the light in my attic for the pool table.
3) With the new projection lens, the picture is extremely sharp, with adjustable throw distances. Brightness, however, is the issue. It is getting dusk now, and my picture is not very visible. I will try at full dark and let you know. There is a lot of light leaking from my box right now, so that is a definate part of the problem. But as i said, MH is coming, so i will not waste too much time on retooling this setup just to do it again when the new light comes. The MH has a reflector an removable diffuser built in, so i think it will be easy to set up. $34 + 30 shipping. I also do not like the MV color rendering, my images seem green no matter what i do.
I might try popping that 175 MH bulb i have into this lamp, (maybe take the fixture outside first).
Well I have to say i am not impressed with the brightness of this setup, and contrary to my prior statement, my obsessive nature drives me to perfect the setup. I will post results ASAP.
bleh
Alright, I got back from my honeymoon and bought a 2,000,000 cp spotlight from Kmart last night for $35. I'm almost 97% certain its going back. its just not bright enough. The reflector is awesome though -- it is a true parabolic, 6" diameter, awesome reflective surface. but, you'd need a tiny, tiny bulb in order for it to work like it should. All in all, these handheld spotlight things are a no go it looks like.
Alright, I got back from my honeymoon and bought a 2,000,000 cp spotlight from Kmart last night for $35. I'm almost 97% certain its going back. its just not bright enough. The reflector is awesome though -- it is a true parabolic, 6" diameter, awesome reflective surface. but, you'd need a tiny, tiny bulb in order for it to work like it should. All in all, these handheld spotlight things are a no go it looks like.
SuperDave:
Let me mention that my throw distance is 20ft. At shorter throw distances, the picture is much brighter, but my living room is 20 by 15 ft. I want the projector on the back wall, where it can be out of sight more or less, because, especially right now, it is not pretty. If your throw is between 10 and 15 ft, this light might work for you if reflected properly. for my purposes, i need higher wattage. I believe the 250 watt should be the sweet spot.
Let me mention that my throw distance is 20ft. At shorter throw distances, the picture is much brighter, but my living room is 20 by 15 ft. I want the projector on the back wall, where it can be out of sight more or less, because, especially right now, it is not pretty. If your throw is between 10 and 15 ft, this light might work for you if reflected properly. for my purposes, i need higher wattage. I believe the 250 watt should be the sweet spot.
I have my setup about 6 feet from the wall and the picture is not close to bright enough. I am quite frustrated with this and hopefully I can get through this.
When you didnt have a reflector did you get much of an image??
I couldnt even get a picture up when I wasnt using a reflector. Something is definitely wrong.
I know that MV and MH are the cheap options... but I think I might start looking at other options because the light output is important to me...I have beed seeing MANY presentations here at work with a 3000 lumen projector. The room is very well lit and the image still appears VERY well...This is what I want to accomplish. I dont care if my system is small and protable...but I want a bright...high contrast picture.
Does anyone have suggestions on small, high output light sources...like the ones on projectors. How much am I looking to spend to get one of these installed....also I can deal with fans if I need them for cooling.
I still want to go the cheap MH or MV route....but I only if I can get a bright picture....I have a 7000 MV bulb giving a dimmer image than a 700 lumen projector bulb with reflector. I need to get over this hurdle somehow and hopefully I can do it cheaply.
Later...
Dave
When you didnt have a reflector did you get much of an image??
I couldnt even get a picture up when I wasnt using a reflector. Something is definitely wrong.
I know that MV and MH are the cheap options... but I think I might start looking at other options because the light output is important to me...I have beed seeing MANY presentations here at work with a 3000 lumen projector. The room is very well lit and the image still appears VERY well...This is what I want to accomplish. I dont care if my system is small and protable...but I want a bright...high contrast picture.
Does anyone have suggestions on small, high output light sources...like the ones on projectors. How much am I looking to spend to get one of these installed....also I can deal with fans if I need them for cooling.
I still want to go the cheap MH or MV route....but I only if I can get a bright picture....I have a 7000 MV bulb giving a dimmer image than a 700 lumen projector bulb with reflector. I need to get over this hurdle somehow and hopefully I can do it cheaply.
Later...
Dave
SuperDave,
Until we get the MV/MH situation worked out, you might want to try the DYS overhead bulb. Here is a link:
http://www.donsbulbs.com/b/i/d/dys.dyv.bhc.html
The website, www.donsbulbs.com , also has a service that will find a bulb to fit you needs if you provide a description. It costs $20, I think, but the $20 can be applied to your purchase, so it all works out. Based on the website, I think this guyu knows his stuff.
Anyway, the DYS bulb is 600w, 17000 lumens, and $9. A nice thing is that it doesn't need a powersupply/ballast/transformer, so you should be able to use 120v line voltage with it (AC)...I think. The only info I have found supporting this is the schematic on this page:
http://www.kmr.com/manuals/bell_howell/300/BH300_10.HTM
This bulb should be easily adaptable for any OHP that uses the small relector/lens combo for light dispersion. It might be more difficult to use on OHP's with integrated bulb reflectors. Additional cooling might also be necessary.
Anyways, if you want to take the cheap, brute-force approach to lighting, this might be the ticket.
Good luck!
-f4
Until we get the MV/MH situation worked out, you might want to try the DYS overhead bulb. Here is a link:
http://www.donsbulbs.com/b/i/d/dys.dyv.bhc.html
The website, www.donsbulbs.com , also has a service that will find a bulb to fit you needs if you provide a description. It costs $20, I think, but the $20 can be applied to your purchase, so it all works out. Based on the website, I think this guyu knows his stuff.
Anyway, the DYS bulb is 600w, 17000 lumens, and $9. A nice thing is that it doesn't need a powersupply/ballast/transformer, so you should be able to use 120v line voltage with it (AC)...I think. The only info I have found supporting this is the schematic on this page:
http://www.kmr.com/manuals/bell_howell/300/BH300_10.HTM
This bulb should be easily adaptable for any OHP that uses the small relector/lens combo for light dispersion. It might be more difficult to use on OHP's with integrated bulb reflectors. Additional cooling might also be necessary.
Anyways, if you want to take the cheap, brute-force approach to lighting, this might be the ticket.
Good luck!
-f4
This thread has been depressing the past few days, even week. It seems like no progress has been made :\
I haven't decided whether or not to buy that MV light. Should I, just for kicks? it costs $29 here though -- SUCK!
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