F1mike,
That lens was originally from this website
http://bgm.bgmicro.com/prodinfo.asp?sid=0365185185185185198142947&prodid=LEN1005&page=1&cri=LEN&stype=2
there are a lot of electronic surplus here...maybe it might be useful to someone...
cheers....
🙂
That lens was originally from this website
http://bgm.bgmicro.com/prodinfo.asp?sid=0365185185185185198142947&prodid=LEN1005&page=1&cri=LEN&stype=2
there are a lot of electronic surplus here...maybe it might be useful to someone...
cheers....
🙂
My OHP pissed me off!
Well I was watching a movie and POP my OHP died and yes thats the sound it made :/ so I took the ******* thing apart.
OMG what a mess Id say thats the crapiest ballast I have ever seen wtf is up with all that crap in there!!
after taking EVERY THING apart I find the fuse deep inside that has some getto plastic cover on it so you have rip it off before you get to the fuse.
Id say thats a bad fuse would't you? Who in thier right mind would put a fuse in such a spot.
Well I was watching a movie and POP my OHP died and yes thats the sound it made :/ so I took the ******* thing apart.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
OMG what a mess Id say thats the crapiest ballast I have ever seen wtf is up with all that crap in there!!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
after taking EVERY THING apart I find the fuse deep inside that has some getto plastic cover on it so you have rip it off before you get to the fuse.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Id say thats a bad fuse would't you? Who in thier right mind would put a fuse in such a spot.
Scot_lad, Marklar!
I got a cheapy OHP -it's even a Dukane, 2 new bulbs - if your friend will pay for shipping from US. joejas@ihpc.net
So are you going to replace the fuse, put it back together and see if it still works?
I got a cheapy OHP -it's even a Dukane, 2 new bulbs - if your friend will pay for shipping from US. joejas@ihpc.net
So are you going to replace the fuse, put it back together and see if it still works?
Well POO!!
I made it easy to change the fues now incase this happens again
BUT DAMN IT the fues keeps blowin something else is SCREWED!!
I made it easy to change the fues now incase this happens again
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
BUT DAMN IT the fues keeps blowin something else is SCREWED!!
Blowing of the fuse indicates...
...that something has shorted out in your electronic ballast. I'd check the bridge rectifier for one of the 4 diodes shorted - maybe you get lucky and replace this and she runs OK again.
The next thing will be a power transistor, probably the one that does the switching, in order to boost voltage up to run the arc lamp. Without a schematic, I really cant say which specific component to check next.
Do you know any technical people who know how to repair computer power supplies nearby? They might be better able to fix this or help you out than I can, typing ideas of what to look for into here.
...that something has shorted out in your electronic ballast. I'd check the bridge rectifier for one of the 4 diodes shorted - maybe you get lucky and replace this and she runs OK again.
The next thing will be a power transistor, probably the one that does the switching, in order to boost voltage up to run the arc lamp. Without a schematic, I really cant say which specific component to check next.
Do you know any technical people who know how to repair computer power supplies nearby? They might be better able to fix this or help you out than I can, typing ideas of what to look for into here.
Im no expert
how do i check these diffetent componets I do have a real nice fluke mulit meter but I donno what a bridge rectifier is and donno how to check anything.
how do i check these diffetent componets I do have a real nice fluke mulit meter but I donno what a bridge rectifier is and donno how to check anything.
Bridge rectifier
It's the square thing mounted to the heat sink (the silver finned thing) on the left in your picture.
If it's a good Fluke, you should be able to put it in resistance mode and press a button with a diode symbol, to put it into diode mode. The symbol looks like --->|----
There are 4 of these in the bridge. The bridge also has 4 posts. Two should have a + or - printed nearby, while the other two have ~ or AC.
A good bridge will show ~ 0.7 READING (slight variation like 0.58 is okay) with the red lead connected to either ~ (ac) and the black lead connected to +. Also for the red lead connected to - and the black lead connected to either ~ (ac). If the reading is 0.00, for any of these connections, then a diode is blown in the bridge, which would blow the fuse.
You can probably get a replacement at Radio Shack if this is the problem.
It's the square thing mounted to the heat sink (the silver finned thing) on the left in your picture.
If it's a good Fluke, you should be able to put it in resistance mode and press a button with a diode symbol, to put it into diode mode. The symbol looks like --->|----
There are 4 of these in the bridge. The bridge also has 4 posts. Two should have a + or - printed nearby, while the other two have ~ or AC.
A good bridge will show ~ 0.7 READING (slight variation like 0.58 is okay) with the red lead connected to either ~ (ac) and the black lead connected to +. Also for the red lead connected to - and the black lead connected to either ~ (ac). If the reading is 0.00, for any of these connections, then a diode is blown in the bridge, which would blow the fuse.
You can probably get a replacement at Radio Shack if this is the problem.
hi all
well i ve been trying different types of projection there all soso but i didi luck out this sunday ,a guy will be allmost giveing me a couple of projectors store bought! the up side is one works he said but goes off and on hmmmm? the other has something wrong with it but i dont care cause if the lcd and the lens work ill be fine thanks to this wonderfull forum who knows maby ill even get a good bulb🙂 well its friday and i feel like a kid waiting for christmas 48 hours🙁 JUST A HINT I THOUGHT PASS ON
CONFRENCE ROOMS UPGRADE PROJECTORS A LOT I KNOW WE are building our own in hear but why should the big guys have all the good parts! seeya all!!!!!!!! ps does
anyone have good pics of there work post it , id like to see a good screen shot of a big screen with something in front to compare size!!!!!!!!😀
well i ve been trying different types of projection there all soso but i didi luck out this sunday ,a guy will be allmost giveing me a couple of projectors store bought! the up side is one works he said but goes off and on hmmmm? the other has something wrong with it but i dont care cause if the lcd and the lens work ill be fine thanks to this wonderfull forum who knows maby ill even get a good bulb🙂 well its friday and i feel like a kid waiting for christmas 48 hours🙁 JUST A HINT I THOUGHT PASS ON
CONFRENCE ROOMS UPGRADE PROJECTORS A LOT I KNOW WE are building our own in hear but why should the big guys have all the good parts! seeya all!!!!!!!! ps does
anyone have good pics of there work post it , id like to see a good screen shot of a big screen with something in front to compare size!!!!!!!!😀
Neto
Well if i did it right then I think its broken i dont have a diode button i just put it on ohms 200 and did what you said and I was getting readings from .0 - .5 so i guess it broken :/
Well if i did it right then I think its broken i dont have a diode button i just put it on ohms 200 and did what you said and I was getting readings from .0 - .5 so i guess it broken :/
Rectifier is soon to be rectified
I have removed it and tested it and seems to be dead I guess so I contacted Warner Power the people who made the ballast and asked them where I could get the replacement part so hopefully it will be fixed soon and thanks for the help man I thought I was gonna be up **** creek without a paddle.
I have removed it and tested it and seems to be dead I guess so I contacted Warner Power the people who made the ballast and asked them where I could get the replacement part so hopefully it will be fixed soon and thanks for the help man I thought I was gonna be up **** creek without a paddle.
lcd list
hey everyone i was going through ebay looking for an lcd to use and using yahoo to research them i came up with the greenspun board a couple of times and i realized the knoledge lost there so i was thinking of compileing a list of good/bad lcds and i need you guys help if i could get everyone to email me with lcd's that you have tried and what you think of them i'll sort through them and put it all together in some type of presentable form and redistribute it.
email me if you want a copy when i'm done i'll also send a copy to all that contribute uless you let me know otherwise
hey everyone i was going through ebay looking for an lcd to use and using yahoo to research them i came up with the greenspun board a couple of times and i realized the knoledge lost there so i was thinking of compileing a list of good/bad lcds and i need you guys help if i could get everyone to email me with lcd's that you have tried and what you think of them i'll sort through them and put it all together in some type of presentable form and redistribute it.
email me if you want a copy when i'm done i'll also send a copy to all that contribute uless you let me know otherwise
forum
there is already a good/bad lcd panel list on this forum.... here :
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=3067
there is already a good/bad lcd panel list on this forum.... here :
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=3067
LCD panel
Hello...
hi there...i was wondering if anyone knows where i can get an lcd monitor to be stripped off the driver board? I have just purchased a 21" UXGA lcd monitor but i dare not do it myself...
I have been reading the board for quite some time now and i am in the pursuit of the ultimate Projector (Larger than Cinema scale)...ideally it would be a drive-in-theater close to my housing area...The spec would be something like this..
Resolution : UXGA / QXGA
Brightness : 1 million ansi lumens
Screen size : 2100m X 1200m
i will be updating my website soon...the cost of the project is estimated at US$8,000....
till then.....cya
😀 😀 😀
Hello...
hi there...i was wondering if anyone knows where i can get an lcd monitor to be stripped off the driver board? I have just purchased a 21" UXGA lcd monitor but i dare not do it myself...
I have been reading the board for quite some time now and i am in the pursuit of the ultimate Projector (Larger than Cinema scale)...ideally it would be a drive-in-theater close to my housing area...The spec would be something like this..
Resolution : UXGA / QXGA
Brightness : 1 million ansi lumens
Screen size : 2100m X 1200m
i will be updating my website soon...the cost of the project is estimated at US$8,000....
till then.....cya
😀 😀 😀
hey guys
check this out. I went to Lowes and picked up a 12" by 18" piece of aluminum sheet metal. It wasnt very reflective, it had a brushed look to it. I was skeptical about what I might be able to do to it. plus, it was $13. suck. Anyways, I was at Walmart later in the day, and picked up some Mothers Aluminum/Mag metal polish in the automotive aisle. Its pretty good stuff. Well, 2 hours and a sore arm later, check this out. I only did 2/3 of it, so you could see the difference. first pic with flash, second without, third a reflection of me taking a pic right at it.
This could seriously be a real possibility. Its reflecting like 80% ++ of the light I shine at it (I shined a flashlight at it). just eyeballing it, but, it really does a nice job!
it is easlily bendable -- I can take it and make a U out of it with just my hands. My goal is to make this thing into an elliptical reflector.
Also, for those interested, I've started a website for my friends to track my progress. I've been keeping it very well updated. the address is:
http://www.dreamlash.com/DIY/
check this out. I went to Lowes and picked up a 12" by 18" piece of aluminum sheet metal. It wasnt very reflective, it had a brushed look to it. I was skeptical about what I might be able to do to it. plus, it was $13. suck. Anyways, I was at Walmart later in the day, and picked up some Mothers Aluminum/Mag metal polish in the automotive aisle. Its pretty good stuff. Well, 2 hours and a sore arm later, check this out. I only did 2/3 of it, so you could see the difference. first pic with flash, second without, third a reflection of me taking a pic right at it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This could seriously be a real possibility. Its reflecting like 80% ++ of the light I shine at it (I shined a flashlight at it). just eyeballing it, but, it really does a nice job!
it is easlily bendable -- I can take it and make a U out of it with just my hands. My goal is to make this thing into an elliptical reflector.
Also, for those interested, I've started a website for my friends to track my progress. I've been keeping it very well updated. the address is:
http://www.dreamlash.com/DIY/
lcd's in australia
ok, i stumbled across this link, and yeah they have 1.8 inch lcds (sadly with a res of 280 * 220). they would require some input circuitry, which wouldn't be too hard to build with some intermediate knowledge of electronics. i don't know, at $100 AUD (like $50 US) someone might like to get one and have a bit of a play. the only downside i can see is the res.
ok, i stumbled across this link, and yeah they have 1.8 inch lcds (sadly with a res of 280 * 220). they would require some input circuitry, which wouldn't be too hard to build with some intermediate knowledge of electronics. i don't know, at $100 AUD (like $50 US) someone might like to get one and have a bit of a play. the only downside i can see is the res.
hey everyone. catching up again. sorry bout being so out of the loop, between working on the projector and school, i've had just over zero time for my computer.
reflector. the magic piece.
ellipsoidals are perfect. does everything we want:
i've paint sketched how an ellipsoidal reflector works. see attachment at bottom of post. top image shows how light at one focal point all bounces to the other focal point. now just imagine that the part that's red on the bottom photo gets cut away, drop a 250w metal halide at F1 and install the LCD.
i drew how the optics have to work too. in the bottom image, the light bounces off the reflector, goes through the lcd and collects at the lense. the lense needs to let the light fill the four corners of the screen, while focusing the surface of the lcd onto the surface of screen. exactly like moving the knob on your overhead to set focus. in effect, the ellipsoidal is just like a fresnel, except much higher quality on a number of different levels (better light uniformity/dispertion, sharper, no trougth lines).
grab a good lense design book available at your public library if you want to really do the optics properly. its well worth the effort spent. it makes all the different between "an image" (sometimes "barely an image") and a mighty fine image.
zoom optics are definately a fun route too, but a huge pain in the ***.
by the way, stuff is hot. so yeah, be careful. sheet of glass alone works wonders at blocking heat. if you wanted to be just that cool and use a 400w mh or 1000w mh for the image of perfection, make the reflector a cold mirror then put a hot mirror directly between the LCD and the light source. that should keep the important stuff (see: lcd) cool in the uber-setups, while letting the heat bleed off. some fannage should be sufficient in most reasonable cases though.
fender4: you mentioned some lense design work. what're you up to. right now i'm trying to optimize a cooke triplet for a nice sharp zoom setup.
bravo undream for beautiful explanation of why candlepower is so damned misleading.
thank you Gunawan. your <a href="http://www.gwidijanto.fcpages.com/reflector.htm">listed site</a> was the perfect thing. i had been thinking i'd have to use a circular ellipsoidal reflector, and that site showed me that a non-circular one will work too. its <b>perfect</b>. really cant thank you enough, its made my world.
oftheed: the most quoted figure i've heard is that the final picture is 8%-12% as bright as the light that gets put through the LCD and collected.
tired and whatnot. goodnight all. look forwards to being back on the board.
myren
reflector. the magic piece.
ellipsoidals are perfect. does everything we want:
i've paint sketched how an ellipsoidal reflector works. see attachment at bottom of post. top image shows how light at one focal point all bounces to the other focal point. now just imagine that the part that's red on the bottom photo gets cut away, drop a 250w metal halide at F1 and install the LCD.
i drew how the optics have to work too. in the bottom image, the light bounces off the reflector, goes through the lcd and collects at the lense. the lense needs to let the light fill the four corners of the screen, while focusing the surface of the lcd onto the surface of screen. exactly like moving the knob on your overhead to set focus. in effect, the ellipsoidal is just like a fresnel, except much higher quality on a number of different levels (better light uniformity/dispertion, sharper, no trougth lines).
grab a good lense design book available at your public library if you want to really do the optics properly. its well worth the effort spent. it makes all the different between "an image" (sometimes "barely an image") and a mighty fine image.
zoom optics are definately a fun route too, but a huge pain in the ***.
by the way, stuff is hot. so yeah, be careful. sheet of glass alone works wonders at blocking heat. if you wanted to be just that cool and use a 400w mh or 1000w mh for the image of perfection, make the reflector a cold mirror then put a hot mirror directly between the LCD and the light source. that should keep the important stuff (see: lcd) cool in the uber-setups, while letting the heat bleed off. some fannage should be sufficient in most reasonable cases though.
fender4: you mentioned some lense design work. what're you up to. right now i'm trying to optimize a cooke triplet for a nice sharp zoom setup.
bravo undream for beautiful explanation of why candlepower is so damned misleading.
thank you Gunawan. your <a href="http://www.gwidijanto.fcpages.com/reflector.htm">listed site</a> was the perfect thing. i had been thinking i'd have to use a circular ellipsoidal reflector, and that site showed me that a non-circular one will work too. its <b>perfect</b>. really cant thank you enough, its made my world.
oftheed: the most quoted figure i've heard is that the final picture is 8%-12% as bright as the light that gets put through the LCD and collected.
tired and whatnot. goodnight all. look forwards to being back on the board.
myren
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