dukane 850
also, that picture is out of proportion, but you get the idea.
the actual height of the entire plastic casing of this thing is only 5.5"
Small feet swiveled out, so, when it stands on those, it is about 7.5-8" tall.
Its very, very, simple, I was able to take it apart in about 10 minutes.
also, that picture is out of proportion, but you get the idea.
the actual height of the entire plastic casing of this thing is only 5.5"
Small feet swiveled out, so, when it stands on those, it is about 7.5-8" tall.
Its very, very, simple, I was able to take it apart in about 10 minutes.
undream
Be careful with that 500 watt halogen. I just picked one up today as well, and in testing, i melted a heavy plastic fresnal at a foot away from the light in open air. By the way, my workilght has a glass fron that covers the bulb, and that glass is also a uv filter. I tested for a second without the fresnal, and the fresnal seems to make no real difference in my setup. So instead of using a fresnal, i might use a large piece of thick glass, about 3 inches away from the lcd, creating an airspace to protect the lcd, and fans circulating through this space.
Be careful with that 500 watt halogen. I just picked one up today as well, and in testing, i melted a heavy plastic fresnal at a foot away from the light in open air. By the way, my workilght has a glass fron that covers the bulb, and that glass is also a uv filter. I tested for a second without the fresnal, and the fresnal seems to make no real difference in my setup. So instead of using a fresnal, i might use a large piece of thick glass, about 3 inches away from the lcd, creating an airspace to protect the lcd, and fans circulating through this space.
Self built enclosure
Hi again,
A few ppl here have mentioned that they would rather have a self contained unit based projector rather than going the OHP route.
This is also the way that I would like my project to go.
I would be very interested to see any pictures of self-built units and there results at whatever stage.
Does anyone have any pictures of their setups in operation? (other than the ones already posted on websites)
Thx,
Jon
Hi again,
A few ppl here have mentioned that they would rather have a self contained unit based projector rather than going the OHP route.
This is also the way that I would like my project to go.
I would be very interested to see any pictures of self-built units and there results at whatever stage.
Does anyone have any pictures of their setups in operation? (other than the ones already posted on websites)
Thx,
Jon
pictures
I have a digital camera. As I progress, I'll definitely start taking pictures. I did not want an over-head projector either. I'd rather rip apart one, take all the parts, and do it myself. I think its going to be nicer that way, more portable, and better looking! Sure, it might have 2 or 3 plugs and on-off switches, but, hey, no problem with that 🙂
I'm getting married on Saturday the 27th, so, I will be honeymooning in the Southeast Carribean for 7 nights. My project will probably move forward after I get back... if I'm not too exhausted from all that... *cough* relaxing.
I have a digital camera. As I progress, I'll definitely start taking pictures. I did not want an over-head projector either. I'd rather rip apart one, take all the parts, and do it myself. I think its going to be nicer that way, more portable, and better looking! Sure, it might have 2 or 3 plugs and on-off switches, but, hey, no problem with that 🙂
I'm getting married on Saturday the 27th, so, I will be honeymooning in the Southeast Carribean for 7 nights. My project will probably move forward after I get back... if I'm not too exhausted from all that... *cough* relaxing.
LCD projection panels???
This question is directed to all those that have tried LCD projection panels plus overhead projectors.
I was just wondering what the video quality (colors/fast motion) is like when playing a VHS tape or DVD or whatever?
Obviously it will depend on the panel, but I just want a general idea.
The reason why I am inquiring is because I am considering investing several hundred dollars in such a set-up, and want to make sure it will be worth my while.
From what I have read from this massive thread, this seems to be a very common route people are taking.
However, I came across an article which compared several high end LCD projection panels (including the Sharp LC2500)(http://www.macworld.com/1996/05/features/2017.html)
and the article basically stated that all panels tested were brutally bad for displaying NTSC video. Here is a quote:
When we spot-checked the display of video directly from an NTSC source–that is, video intended for a television rather than a computer (we used a laser disc)–quality took a nosedive. Few panels were able to keep up with the view from an airplane as it zipped over scrubby desert trees, displaying instead a blur of shifting polygons, though the Telex unit did the best. The desert's bright earth tones appeared as muted grays and browns, while from an indoor clip, "video-legal" shades of crimson and teal, which any monitor or other video-display system should be able to handle, popped out so brightly that they looked like fluorescent paint. Overall, we suggest that you display real video with a television–or convert your video to QuickTime movies.
Is this quote accurate, or are they exaggerating?
great forum BTW!
This question is directed to all those that have tried LCD projection panels plus overhead projectors.
I was just wondering what the video quality (colors/fast motion) is like when playing a VHS tape or DVD or whatever?
Obviously it will depend on the panel, but I just want a general idea.
The reason why I am inquiring is because I am considering investing several hundred dollars in such a set-up, and want to make sure it will be worth my while.
From what I have read from this massive thread, this seems to be a very common route people are taking.
However, I came across an article which compared several high end LCD projection panels (including the Sharp LC2500)(http://www.macworld.com/1996/05/features/2017.html)
and the article basically stated that all panels tested were brutally bad for displaying NTSC video. Here is a quote:
When we spot-checked the display of video directly from an NTSC source–that is, video intended for a television rather than a computer (we used a laser disc)–quality took a nosedive. Few panels were able to keep up with the view from an airplane as it zipped over scrubby desert trees, displaying instead a blur of shifting polygons, though the Telex unit did the best. The desert's bright earth tones appeared as muted grays and browns, while from an indoor clip, "video-legal" shades of crimson and teal, which any monitor or other video-display system should be able to handle, popped out so brightly that they looked like fluorescent paint. Overall, we suggest that you display real video with a television–or convert your video to QuickTime movies.
Is this quote accurate, or are they exaggerating?
great forum BTW!
Hi,
I think this article was probably referring to TN (twisted nematic) based LCD screens which are much slower at refreshing by todays TFT standards.
A TFT screen will create a fast, crisp picture.
HTH,
I think this article was probably referring to TN (twisted nematic) based LCD screens which are much slower at refreshing by todays TFT standards.
A TFT screen will create a fast, crisp picture.
HTH,
Congrats Undream
🙂 Enjoy your special weekend and week in the Carribeans. 😀 😉
We will be looking forward to your return... 😛 😛
Make sure to use sunblock 😎 😎 and whatever other protection you may need or don't need any more... 😉 😀 😀
🙂 Enjoy your special weekend and week in the Carribeans. 😀 😉
We will be looking forward to your return... 😛 😛
Make sure to use sunblock 😎 😎 and whatever other protection you may need or don't need any more... 😉 😀 😀
Undream; Congrats, have fun!
Thanks for the drawing - I always wondered what one of those looked like inside. My basic suggestion is still to stick with the OHP arrangement - and try to make it better.
Some panels are fast, some are slow. I realized this when I was watching a movie through the infocus power view 820 - and I could see pieces of dirt on the projected film the DVD was apparently made from. Didnt notice those with my Nview Z350 panel.
I think the powerview 820 is one of the latest generation panels, along with some of the proxima and sharp panels. I'm getting a sharp qa-2500, which is top of the line, only bested by the proxima that can do 1170X960.
I think any of the panels that can do 16.7M colors are going to be fast, as to get this color depth it has to be the "latest" technology. The 1.4M color panels are older, and as such they are probably slower. My Nview Z350 panel is from this era; it just squeaks in there under the acceptability line for motion and color. I suspect the sharp panel will be better; perfect color and fast enough to see the bits of dirt go by on the film...
Thanks for the drawing - I always wondered what one of those looked like inside. My basic suggestion is still to stick with the OHP arrangement - and try to make it better.
Some panels are fast, some are slow. I realized this when I was watching a movie through the infocus power view 820 - and I could see pieces of dirt on the projected film the DVD was apparently made from. Didnt notice those with my Nview Z350 panel.
I think the powerview 820 is one of the latest generation panels, along with some of the proxima and sharp panels. I'm getting a sharp qa-2500, which is top of the line, only bested by the proxima that can do 1170X960.
I think any of the panels that can do 16.7M colors are going to be fast, as to get this color depth it has to be the "latest" technology. The 1.4M color panels are older, and as such they are probably slower. My Nview Z350 panel is from this era; it just squeaks in there under the acceptability line for motion and color. I suspect the sharp panel will be better; perfect color and fast enough to see the bits of dirt go by on the film...
Hey, I ordered the qa-1150 off ebay (should arrive early this week!). Ive only heard good things about it, anyone heard anything bad about this model?
Anyway, im going to be painting the wall that I will be projecting onto, so I was wondering whats the best kind of paint for that? Ive seen projection screens that are both silver and white- which colour should i use for my wall? Also, is a high-gloss or low-gloss paint better for reflecting the image back at you? I would assume high-gloss, but what do I know? Thanks!
Anyway, im going to be painting the wall that I will be projecting onto, so I was wondering whats the best kind of paint for that? Ive seen projection screens that are both silver and white- which colour should i use for my wall? Also, is a high-gloss or low-gloss paint better for reflecting the image back at you? I would assume high-gloss, but what do I know? Thanks!
make a screen?
BodySuitMan
earlier in this thread someone posted a link to www.avsforum.com where there is a thread on a DIY screen made from homedepot stuff... the guys on there say it rivals the $1000 screens, and can be made for about $30.
check it out.
BodySuitMan
earlier in this thread someone posted a link to www.avsforum.com where there is a thread on a DIY screen made from homedepot stuff... the guys on there say it rivals the $1000 screens, and can be made for about $30.
check it out.
Powerview 820
Joe:
So you say you have a Powerview 820. I recently purchased one also, but its not working. Keypad lights up and the fan runs but nothing else happens. I checked the voltages coming from the power supply. The +15VDC pin measures a rock solid 15.1V but the -15V pin flucuates regularly from 0 to -10V. Would you be willing to check the voltages on your power supply to verify if this is normal or not? Sorry mine didn't come with the cablewizard either.
Joe:
So you say you have a Powerview 820. I recently purchased one also, but its not working. Keypad lights up and the fan runs but nothing else happens. I checked the voltages coming from the power supply. The +15VDC pin measures a rock solid 15.1V but the -15V pin flucuates regularly from 0 to -10V. Would you be willing to check the voltages on your power supply to verify if this is normal or not? Sorry mine didn't come with the cablewizard either.
d scaler
I have heard that there is a software d-scaler available? If this is true - where can I get it from?
I have heard that there is a software d-scaler available? If this is true - where can I get it from?
Hey jjasniew: InFocus powerview 950?
Ha ha, what a small world, I was just pulling my hair out trying to find out information(with almost no luck) about the InFocus Powerview 950 I just ordered, and I noticed that jjasniew is selling one (although broken somehow) on ebay. Do you have any info on it? I know its resolution, but how about its color depth, contrast ratio and its response time? Do you consider the 950 a part of the newer technology tft panel you were just discussing? BTW, what the heck did you do to your 950 anyways?
Also, I also just got (haven't recieved yet) a Nview z310, anyone have any information on that?? Its amazing how search engines and corperate web sites just come up with almost complete blanks when searched for any technology product more that a few years old. I think all of what little info I have is from 7 year old email records from university purchasing descions that the search engines happened to index.
Ha ha, what a small world, I was just pulling my hair out trying to find out information(with almost no luck) about the InFocus Powerview 950 I just ordered, and I noticed that jjasniew is selling one (although broken somehow) on ebay. Do you have any info on it? I know its resolution, but how about its color depth, contrast ratio and its response time? Do you consider the 950 a part of the newer technology tft panel you were just discussing? BTW, what the heck did you do to your 950 anyways?
Also, I also just got (haven't recieved yet) a Nview z310, anyone have any information on that?? Its amazing how search engines and corperate web sites just come up with almost complete blanks when searched for any technology product more that a few years old. I think all of what little info I have is from 7 year old email records from university purchasing descions that the search engines happened to index.
WOOHOO!! ready to start
Alright!...
I just got my Elmo HPL290 last night (it took 3 weeks in mail from Canada to California). I also bought a VG150 a few weeks back for this project. I am excited about getting off work today to go home and get some type of picture on my wall. Once I get an initial test run I want to gut everything out and build up in my own case.
I do have a few questions/concerns/comments befor I move on.
1) I am fairly happy with how my VG150 looks but I noticed (while watching Matrix DVD) that it appeared MUCH grainier than on my CRT. when I paused (or watched in slow motion) I could see a bunch of "color banding" on the screen. It was as if it wasnt displaying all the colors properly. Has anyone seen this? Is this a problem or is it a "feature" on LCD screens. I ordered this online and I will be without it for 3-4 weeks if I have to send it in for repair/replacement. Should I get it replaced or just try it out as a projector first?
2) It is funny seeing the posts for the HomeDepot MV light. I bought this SAME lamp almost 2 years ago for $6 on clearance at Walmart and never put it up at my house. I moved 2 weeks ago and found it....I was VERRRRY excited. I now had a CHEAP 7000 lumen light source and couldnt wait to try it and tell everyone how/if it worked. I got beat to the punch but it seems like this may be an EXCELLENT option for us. I will be using this when I build my own case.
3) Projection -- this is where my knowledge falls. I have been looking at buying a Kodak 100-150mm lens. I assume this would allow me to adjust the image size based on position of the projector. However, since I have a 15" monitor and the projection lens has like a 4" diameter...how do I get my entire image projected? Do I place 2 lenses back to back? This is really the only question for me right now? What are other people doing that are using larger LCD screen??? Please help on this one.
Finally, I have a digital camera and will begin taking pictures tonight. I plan on taking A LOT!!! of pictures (hopefully I follow through on this) and posting them to a website for others to see and hopefully learn something from. It might take a while for me to complete everything but I will try to post as I go.
OK!!! long enough message....back to work....Damn I want to go home and start....Later!
Alright!...
I just got my Elmo HPL290 last night (it took 3 weeks in mail from Canada to California). I also bought a VG150 a few weeks back for this project. I am excited about getting off work today to go home and get some type of picture on my wall. Once I get an initial test run I want to gut everything out and build up in my own case.
I do have a few questions/concerns/comments befor I move on.
1) I am fairly happy with how my VG150 looks but I noticed (while watching Matrix DVD) that it appeared MUCH grainier than on my CRT. when I paused (or watched in slow motion) I could see a bunch of "color banding" on the screen. It was as if it wasnt displaying all the colors properly. Has anyone seen this? Is this a problem or is it a "feature" on LCD screens. I ordered this online and I will be without it for 3-4 weeks if I have to send it in for repair/replacement. Should I get it replaced or just try it out as a projector first?
2) It is funny seeing the posts for the HomeDepot MV light. I bought this SAME lamp almost 2 years ago for $6 on clearance at Walmart and never put it up at my house. I moved 2 weeks ago and found it....I was VERRRRY excited. I now had a CHEAP 7000 lumen light source and couldnt wait to try it and tell everyone how/if it worked. I got beat to the punch but it seems like this may be an EXCELLENT option for us. I will be using this when I build my own case.
3) Projection -- this is where my knowledge falls. I have been looking at buying a Kodak 100-150mm lens. I assume this would allow me to adjust the image size based on position of the projector. However, since I have a 15" monitor and the projection lens has like a 4" diameter...how do I get my entire image projected? Do I place 2 lenses back to back? This is really the only question for me right now? What are other people doing that are using larger LCD screen??? Please help on this one.
Finally, I have a digital camera and will begin taking pictures tonight. I plan on taking A LOT!!! of pictures (hopefully I follow through on this) and posting them to a website for others to see and hopefully learn something from. It might take a while for me to complete everything but I will try to post as I go.
OK!!! long enough message....back to work....Damn I want to go home and start....Later!
setup
When your LCD is larger size than your lense that you need it projected to, thats where you'll need a fresnel lens between the light source and your LCD panel, from what I've been seeing. You'll need a large one, since your VG150 is 9" by 12", you'll need one that can cover that whole area.
When your LCD is larger size than your lense that you need it projected to, thats where you'll need a fresnel lens between the light source and your LCD panel, from what I've been seeing. You'll need a large one, since your VG150 is 9" by 12", you'll need one that can cover that whole area.
I know that I need a Frsnel between the light and the LCD...I am more concerned about how I go from the LCD to the projection lens. Sorry for the CRUDE text drawing below.....
LCD
| |
| | Projection Lens
| |
| | -----------||
| | -----------||
| |
| |
| |
| |
OK... since the common (as far as I know) lenses are only a few inches in diameter and are supposed to be almost flat against the lcd screen this isnt going to work for me....how do I get the image of the LCD screen compressed to fit into the projection lens? Wont I need to have another lens basically pointing AT the lcd to focus it into my projection lens that points at the screen???
Am I making any sense?
LCD
| |
| | Projection Lens
| |
| | -----------||
| | -----------||
| |
| |
| |
| |
OK... since the common (as far as I know) lenses are only a few inches in diameter and are supposed to be almost flat against the lcd screen this isnt going to work for me....how do I get the image of the LCD screen compressed to fit into the projection lens? Wont I need to have another lens basically pointing AT the lcd to focus it into my projection lens that points at the screen???
Am I making any sense?
My trials have begun
I have finally got all my parts to begin. (I just bought a house, so I have been beyond broke for the last few months.) This is what i have for initial testing: Proxima ovation 810($60), 500w halogen work light($9), 2x fresnal($5), 3x fresnal($5), and a Barco delta iv lens from a Barco 1000 series CRT projector($10+shipping=$26).
I have set this all up and began testing. The barco lens came from a 9" crt projector. In testing with the lcd it produces a beautiful picture, extremely clear. You can see the individual pixels. Soften the focus a bit, and the screen door goes away. But this beautiful picture is only a circle in the middle of the produced picture, with the top and bottom of the circle tangent to the top and bottom of the picture on screen. I thought since this was used to project a 9" crt, it would be fine projecting the 8.4" proxima. Any ideas?
This great focus is achieved with the LCD nearly touching the lens. If I move it further away, to perhaps capture more of the picture, the image sucks. I have tried to reduce the image with a fresnal in between the lcd and the lens, but all this did was blur the image even more and create hotspots from my light source, where there were none before.
And another problem: so far this produces about a 6-foot diagonal image with the projector about 8 foot away. My final placement (preferred) would have the projector about 15 foot away from the wall, this would mean a 12 ft diagonal picture, which is much too big for my wall. I am looking for about an 8.5 foot picture from about 15 foot. I thought a lens from a crt projector would have a longer throw versus the lens from a rear projection tv.
On a side note: I rigged up a box and projected the image with a fresnal as the projection lens (light->lcd->fresnal) , ala 100" tv, and the image produced was whole and about the size I would need for the final position. Downside: image was a bit fuzzy. (could be this is because the frsnal was melted and warped in earlier testing). If i replaced the fresnal with a plano convex, would this do the trick?
As far as brightness goes, with the barco lens, the image, incomplete as stated, was totally viewable in complete sunlight. My dining room has a lot of windows. But with the fresnal as the lens, the image is only useable at night.
I have pictures of the setup and i will post them when i have pictures of the projected image. (have to wait until dark).
I have finally got all my parts to begin. (I just bought a house, so I have been beyond broke for the last few months.) This is what i have for initial testing: Proxima ovation 810($60), 500w halogen work light($9), 2x fresnal($5), 3x fresnal($5), and a Barco delta iv lens from a Barco 1000 series CRT projector($10+shipping=$26).
I have set this all up and began testing. The barco lens came from a 9" crt projector. In testing with the lcd it produces a beautiful picture, extremely clear. You can see the individual pixels. Soften the focus a bit, and the screen door goes away. But this beautiful picture is only a circle in the middle of the produced picture, with the top and bottom of the circle tangent to the top and bottom of the picture on screen. I thought since this was used to project a 9" crt, it would be fine projecting the 8.4" proxima. Any ideas?
This great focus is achieved with the LCD nearly touching the lens. If I move it further away, to perhaps capture more of the picture, the image sucks. I have tried to reduce the image with a fresnal in between the lcd and the lens, but all this did was blur the image even more and create hotspots from my light source, where there were none before.
And another problem: so far this produces about a 6-foot diagonal image with the projector about 8 foot away. My final placement (preferred) would have the projector about 15 foot away from the wall, this would mean a 12 ft diagonal picture, which is much too big for my wall. I am looking for about an 8.5 foot picture from about 15 foot. I thought a lens from a crt projector would have a longer throw versus the lens from a rear projection tv.
On a side note: I rigged up a box and projected the image with a fresnal as the projection lens (light->lcd->fresnal) , ala 100" tv, and the image produced was whole and about the size I would need for the final position. Downside: image was a bit fuzzy. (could be this is because the frsnal was melted and warped in earlier testing). If i replaced the fresnal with a plano convex, would this do the trick?
As far as brightness goes, with the barco lens, the image, incomplete as stated, was totally viewable in complete sunlight. My dining room has a lot of windows. But with the fresnal as the lens, the image is only useable at night.
I have pictures of the setup and i will post them when i have pictures of the projected image. (have to wait until dark).
- Status
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