Re: Bright!
Warning: Since my old projector bulb blew I've spent 3 days trying to get the 65w Florescent LOA lamps to work. I CAN'T!
I have two work lights and have tried them in every configuration. I've added reflective backing and even mounted them in new housings. No luck.
The image I get is almost bright enough but completely unfocusable. Movies might be ok but there is no precision, everything bleeds together. That means there is no real contrast. Black is not black and everything is washed out. I guess I figured out what the founders did a year ago.
In fact I'd probably be pleased with my progress if I hadn't seen the focusable sharp clear image from my old light.
I'm trying to resist the quick fix of Halogen and hold out for a good deal on Metal Halide but I don't want to spend much more money... well I do... but I can't... for now my project has reached it's spending limit. I'll have to try to work some overtime.
Later Dudes
Paul Billett - The Nephilum
Warning: Since my old projector bulb blew I've spent 3 days trying to get the 65w Florescent LOA lamps to work. I CAN'T!
I have two work lights and have tried them in every configuration. I've added reflective backing and even mounted them in new housings. No luck.
The image I get is almost bright enough but completely unfocusable. Movies might be ok but there is no precision, everything bleeds together. That means there is no real contrast. Black is not black and everything is washed out. I guess I figured out what the founders did a year ago.
In fact I'd probably be pleased with my progress if I hadn't seen the focusable sharp clear image from my old light.
I'm trying to resist the quick fix of Halogen and hold out for a good deal on Metal Halide but I don't want to spend much more money... well I do... but I can't... for now my project has reached it's spending limit. I'll have to try to work some overtime.
Later Dudes
Paul Billett - The Nephilum
thanks to all
after three weeks of following this forum i've got stage 1 completed. (Panel and OHP) Have to go back through all of this before I start on stage 2. don't want to spend a month reinventing the wheel. Just wanted to say thanks to all who have contributed here, for had i not stumbled on these pages I would have not even known that this was possible. The only thing i didn't like was not seeing many pics of results to decide whether it was worth the effort. yeah, i got burned with the 100" TV plan. As i do have a pretty good camera, I'll post some pics for those others who are still reading and haven't taken the plunge yet.
Thanks again,
B
after three weeks of following this forum i've got stage 1 completed. (Panel and OHP) Have to go back through all of this before I start on stage 2. don't want to spend a month reinventing the wheel. Just wanted to say thanks to all who have contributed here, for had i not stumbled on these pages I would have not even known that this was possible. The only thing i didn't like was not seeing many pics of results to decide whether it was worth the effort. yeah, i got burned with the 100" TV plan. As i do have a pretty good camera, I'll post some pics for those others who are still reading and haven't taken the plunge yet.
Thanks again,
B
My Current Setup
Apollo AI-1000 OHP
Uses 600w halogen bulb
N'veiw Veiwframe Spectra C
4x8 Sheet of Plastex screwed to the wall. (Haven't finished the frame and all That yet. Considering an adjustable Black curtain like thingy to surround it.
Cumputer running Dscaler or WinDVD depending on the application.
Apollo AI-1000 OHP
Uses 600w halogen bulb
N'veiw Veiwframe Spectra C
4x8 Sheet of Plastex screwed to the wall. (Haven't finished the frame and all That yet. Considering an adjustable Black curtain like thingy to surround it.
Cumputer running Dscaler or WinDVD depending on the application.
Attachments
Cooling Mod.
After Hours of research and hard work I came up with this.
Actually it's just a fan that i had lying around from somewhere that uses 110 and is very quiet propped in the space in back where you roll the cord up that blows in cool air to the vents in back. Scientifically speaking where before after 15 min the reading on the panel was ouch that's gotta be too hot to after four hours I can put my ahnd on it and say yeah surely that's safe.
After Hours of research and hard work I came up with this.
Actually it's just a fan that i had lying around from somewhere that uses 110 and is very quiet propped in the space in back where you roll the cord up that blows in cool air to the vents in back. Scientifically speaking where before after 15 min the reading on the panel was ouch that's gotta be too hot to after four hours I can put my ahnd on it and say yeah surely that's safe.
Attachments
100' TV
Here is an enhanced image to sort of simulate what i got with the 100' tv method in case some of you haven't fell for that one yet. it's not a real picture cause my results never were good enough to try and take pics. as it's been a while this might even be better than my results. i don't remember.
Here is an enhanced image to sort of simulate what i got with the 100' tv method in case some of you haven't fell for that one yet. it's not a real picture cause my results never were good enough to try and take pics. as it's been a while this might even be better than my results. i don't remember.
Attachments
And finally here's what i got with the current setup. I have more pics but i'm probably clogging up the thread so this is it.
All in all not too shabby for about the cost of a new 20 incher iv'e got six or seven feet wide. the screen door effect is noticable but actually easier to get used to than the weird ghostly stuff you get on some satellite channels from overcompressed mpegs. The only thing that bothers me at all is if you look real close there is a small hotspot in the middle of the screen. I don't know if this is normal with all OHPs, if it's because my fresnel isn't perfectly flat, or if something else is out of whack. If anyone has any ideas let me know. i'm in the process of re-reading this beast of a document before i start trying to build a more efficient system so maybe i'll come across something, a search didn't help.
anyways, sorry for the long post if it bored you. hopefully it helped some of you.
All in all not too shabby for about the cost of a new 20 incher iv'e got six or seven feet wide. the screen door effect is noticable but actually easier to get used to than the weird ghostly stuff you get on some satellite channels from overcompressed mpegs. The only thing that bothers me at all is if you look real close there is a small hotspot in the middle of the screen. I don't know if this is normal with all OHPs, if it's because my fresnel isn't perfectly flat, or if something else is out of whack. If anyone has any ideas let me know. i'm in the process of re-reading this beast of a document before i start trying to build a more efficient system so maybe i'll come across something, a search didn't help.
anyways, sorry for the long post if it bored you. hopefully it helped some of you.
Attachments
Hi Deadeye
I read somewhere in here a while ago that a small piece of cellotape or scotch tape on your fresnel top side helps get rid of the hot spot.
I read somewhere in here a while ago that a small piece of cellotape or scotch tape on your fresnel top side helps get rid of the hot spot.
Billet!!!!!!!
look at Zark's website !!!!!!!
Please, i have told this here before.
IT IS YOU who has to guide the light to the lcd by blocking all the unwanted light! you can do this by using black paint on a piece of glass leaving a frame open exactly the size of the lcd . You can increase this way of working by using a fresnel. Using the fresnel should automatically bring the light into a rectangular shape!
indeed the loa's are floodlight but it is possible to get a workeable beam. As soon as you get that beam, you can be sure that the lumen are enough to look at the picture.
Maybe, just maybe i think i know what happened. The blocking of the excess light should be done just before the light touches the lcd screen ( less than 1 inch, preferably as close as possible, which is no problem because there is no heat to deal with.
Jean-Pierre
(it's not Jean but Jean-Pierre as e.g. Jean-Claude (Van Damme)
look at Zark's website !!!!!!!
Please, i have told this here before.
IT IS YOU who has to guide the light to the lcd by blocking all the unwanted light! you can do this by using black paint on a piece of glass leaving a frame open exactly the size of the lcd . You can increase this way of working by using a fresnel. Using the fresnel should automatically bring the light into a rectangular shape!
indeed the loa's are floodlight but it is possible to get a workeable beam. As soon as you get that beam, you can be sure that the lumen are enough to look at the picture.
Maybe, just maybe i think i know what happened. The blocking of the excess light should be done just before the light touches the lcd screen ( less than 1 inch, preferably as close as possible, which is no problem because there is no heat to deal with.
Jean-Pierre
(it's not Jean but Jean-Pierre as e.g. Jean-Claude (Van Damme)
Re: Billett!!!!!!!
I hate to clutter up the forum with my dribble but let me describe what I've tried. It may help anyone else who wonder down this road in the future.
Using your ingenious idea and mounting the two LOAs together with one front panel I've varied their distance from the LCD. The best results I've found are with it right against separated only by the plastic panel and a fresnel or two. I have tried several combinations of fresnels (single sided page magnifiers) and in front of and behind. I've seen best results with one directly behind the LCD and one about 15 inches in front to focus the image.
My LCD is 8.5 inches and has protective glass built into the OHP panel about 1/2 inch away from the LCD. (air is circulated between LCD and glass buy a fan but the cooling would be unneeded with the 65 watters.) The glass is at least 1 inch larger than the LCD. This means that the light is not directly against the panel and the waves have some room to bounce around (technical info here everyone... can you tell i don't know much about light)
What i did not do and will try when i get home is to remove that protective panel and attach a tunnel directly from the light source to the lcd. I was more intent on getting all of the light i could to the LCD but of course it was coming from all different directions. Tonight I'll try to build the tunnel. The more i think about it the more i realize it should make an improvement but I'm still buying the MH and ballast. Heck if it works I'll have a back up light source.
BTW I've memorized Zarks website and the only difference i could see is that his LCD is smaller but then i noticed yours is bigger. So i guess size doesn't matter.
Thanks for the pointers Jean-Pierre (got it right this time... but my name is spelled with two Ts... just to confuse everyone)
I'll let you all know how it turns out.
Paul Billett - The Nephilum
I hate to clutter up the forum with my dribble but let me describe what I've tried. It may help anyone else who wonder down this road in the future.
Using your ingenious idea and mounting the two LOAs together with one front panel I've varied their distance from the LCD. The best results I've found are with it right against separated only by the plastic panel and a fresnel or two. I have tried several combinations of fresnels (single sided page magnifiers) and in front of and behind. I've seen best results with one directly behind the LCD and one about 15 inches in front to focus the image.
My LCD is 8.5 inches and has protective glass built into the OHP panel about 1/2 inch away from the LCD. (air is circulated between LCD and glass buy a fan but the cooling would be unneeded with the 65 watters.) The glass is at least 1 inch larger than the LCD. This means that the light is not directly against the panel and the waves have some room to bounce around (technical info here everyone... can you tell i don't know much about light)
What i did not do and will try when i get home is to remove that protective panel and attach a tunnel directly from the light source to the lcd. I was more intent on getting all of the light i could to the LCD but of course it was coming from all different directions. Tonight I'll try to build the tunnel. The more i think about it the more i realize it should make an improvement but I'm still buying the MH and ballast. Heck if it works I'll have a back up light source.
BTW I've memorized Zarks website and the only difference i could see is that his LCD is smaller but then i noticed yours is bigger. So i guess size doesn't matter.
Thanks for the pointers Jean-Pierre (got it right this time... but my name is spelled with two Ts... just to confuse everyone)
I'll let you all know how it turns out.
Paul Billett - The Nephilum
DeadEye
I like the result, and that with a OHP ...... and an lcd
by the way what is the size of your lcd screen on the ohp and your 'widescreen" against the wall
I like the result, and that with a OHP ...... and an lcd
by the way what is the size of your lcd screen on the ohp and your 'widescreen" against the wall
Re: DeadEye
@uvodee
Which model is your lamp?
Ist the Lamp hot?
I tried a 1000W/220V Halogen Lamp - the brightness was great - but simply too hot! 🙁
@uvodee
Which model is your lamp?
Ist the Lamp hot?
I tried a 1000W/220V Halogen Lamp - the brightness was great - but simply too hot! 🙁
CAD
the concept is completely different, CAD
Instead of using regular bulbs that focus, i stole oops copied the idea of ZARK and used regular floodlights from Lights of America, type FLUOREX !!!!!
Each of them comsumes 65 watts, therefor the extreme low heat.
The problem that some of us have had to deal with was channeling of shoudl i say focussing towards the lcd monitor .
According to the box, the lamp produces 6.825 lumen. However, according to my very humble results i think i loose about 15 pct
cause my output is somewhat around 11.500 lumen. The lamps are new, and according to the fluorex technology they will loose about 10 pct during their lifespan ?????
Beacuse they are originally floodlights and not bulbs like MH, the whole contruction should be in line with this philosophy.
It is to say focus all the available light, if necessary work with some mirror, etc etc
i'm sure you will get result such as mine. However, as some stated here, any succeeded solution is a good solution!
Jean-Pierre
the concept is completely different, CAD
Instead of using regular bulbs that focus, i stole oops copied the idea of ZARK and used regular floodlights from Lights of America, type FLUOREX !!!!!
Each of them comsumes 65 watts, therefor the extreme low heat.
The problem that some of us have had to deal with was channeling of shoudl i say focussing towards the lcd monitor .
According to the box, the lamp produces 6.825 lumen. However, according to my very humble results i think i loose about 15 pct
cause my output is somewhat around 11.500 lumen. The lamps are new, and according to the fluorex technology they will loose about 10 pct during their lifespan ?????
Beacuse they are originally floodlights and not bulbs like MH, the whole contruction should be in line with this philosophy.
It is to say focus all the available light, if necessary work with some mirror, etc etc
i'm sure you will get result such as mine. However, as some stated here, any succeeded solution is a good solution!
Jean-Pierre
i did add something
I have to admit that the focussing of the light when working with floodlights is the hardest part. Therefore i worked with a frame in front of the lcd ( i basically have 2 but while testing this, it did not make a lot of diiference. The hole in these frames, made out of black photoalbumpaper, are 1 mm smaller than the lcd overall.
I have pictures of this as well, don't worry i will psot them this week.
one thing that worried me in thebeginning was the funny mark in the middle of the floodlight screen, a small cone bublle right in the center of the cover in the middle of the projection.
well this turned out to be a blessing and nothing more.
I used this bubble to position the floodlights exactly in the middleof the projection hole. After that i used it for the right angle position of the the whole projector box( i bought an angle viewfinder at the dollar store and installed it inside the box with a permanent mark!!!)
Strangely and fortunaetly enough, when i started using the lcd screen, i could not find this bubble shade on the screen anymore, i guess it disappeared maybe because of the lenses .... ?????
I have to admit that the focussing of the light when working with floodlights is the hardest part. Therefore i worked with a frame in front of the lcd ( i basically have 2 but while testing this, it did not make a lot of diiference. The hole in these frames, made out of black photoalbumpaper, are 1 mm smaller than the lcd overall.
I have pictures of this as well, don't worry i will psot them this week.
one thing that worried me in thebeginning was the funny mark in the middle of the floodlight screen, a small cone bublle right in the center of the cover in the middle of the projection.
well this turned out to be a blessing and nothing more.
I used this bubble to position the floodlights exactly in the middleof the projection hole. After that i used it for the right angle position of the the whole projector box( i bought an angle viewfinder at the dollar store and installed it inside the box with a permanent mark!!!)
Strangely and fortunaetly enough, when i started using the lcd screen, i could not find this bubble shade on the screen anymore, i guess it disappeared maybe because of the lenses .... ?????
Fibonacci
Does anyone here, that includes the forumboss, please has any kind of answer on my question concerning the fibonacci theory that relates to the golden cut, it is to say why the makers of tv's and other related products have not used the 16.1/10 screen, and why is it still in a 'R&D' stage with major companies???
To me this is like the oposite of the beta/vhs story.
in our 16.1/10 case it looks like these companies will come and tell us in 2 years from now, that we all got it wrong and 16.1/10 is more superior than 16/9 with all the logical consequences !!!!
Maybe we can be some kind of whistleblower if we can collect some more info on this!
Does anyone here, that includes the forumboss, please has any kind of answer on my question concerning the fibonacci theory that relates to the golden cut, it is to say why the makers of tv's and other related products have not used the 16.1/10 screen, and why is it still in a 'R&D' stage with major companies???
To me this is like the oposite of the beta/vhs story.
in our 16.1/10 case it looks like these companies will come and tell us in 2 years from now, that we all got it wrong and 16.1/10 is more superior than 16/9 with all the logical consequences !!!!
Maybe we can be some kind of whistleblower if we can collect some more info on this!
FluoreX
CAD Jean-Pierre and all other interested parties...
I spent another 2 hours trying to get the LOA FluoreX Floods to work. The best results looked almost exactly like Deadey's 100 inch TV imitation. Visible, almost watchable but with no definition or focus.
I'm beginning to think that Zark and Uvodee should come over to my house when i get the MH bulb and see what a real projector can do... but that's just the frustration talking.
I'll be giving it some more attention tonight and trying to enclose the final lens in a box as well as routing the light directly to the lcd like i did last night.
My MH is in the mail so i won't be playing this game for long!
Paul
CAD Jean-Pierre and all other interested parties...
I spent another 2 hours trying to get the LOA FluoreX Floods to work. The best results looked almost exactly like Deadey's 100 inch TV imitation. Visible, almost watchable but with no definition or focus.
I'm beginning to think that Zark and Uvodee should come over to my house when i get the MH bulb and see what a real projector can do... but that's just the frustration talking.
I'll be giving it some more attention tonight and trying to enclose the final lens in a box as well as routing the light directly to the lcd like i did last night.
My MH is in the mail so i won't be playing this game for long!
Paul
65 Watt Fluorex...
I have also been playing with the 65 watt fluorex bulbs. I recently received my 5 1/2" pcx lens with a 12" focal length and did some playing last night. With the LCD right against the lens of the fluorex I got my brightest picture and was able to focus it pretty clear (I was holding the lens and the light in my hand.) The projector is definitely usefull but you must be in complete darkness. Yesterday was an overcast day and I was able to get an image that was recognizable but it wasn't until it was pitch black that the image was pleasing. Still impressed how much of an image can be created with these little lights! But still not bright enough, I think I will call my father in law and get that 400W MH. It would actually be nice to do some testing during the evening instead of waiting until midnight when everything goes dark.
I have also been playing with the 65 watt fluorex bulbs. I recently received my 5 1/2" pcx lens with a 12" focal length and did some playing last night. With the LCD right against the lens of the fluorex I got my brightest picture and was able to focus it pretty clear (I was holding the lens and the light in my hand.) The projector is definitely usefull but you must be in complete darkness. Yesterday was an overcast day and I was able to get an image that was recognizable but it wasn't until it was pitch black that the image was pleasing. Still impressed how much of an image can be created with these little lights! But still not bright enough, I think I will call my father in law and get that 400W MH. It would actually be nice to do some testing during the evening instead of waiting until midnight when everything goes dark.
Darkness...
I built my own projection screen (you'll never get a clear image without one!) using blackout cloth. Not only does it have a positive gain but is also useful for its original purpose. I didn't have enough left over to make curtains but i was able to stretch it across my windows and tack it up. I now have complete darkness at high noon. I'll start burning red candles and hanging pentagrams soon. DIY Satanic Worship now that's a forum.
(Lest anyone think I'm serious the above statements are JOKES! Neither I nor the diyAudio servers nor my ISP nor the desk chair I'm sitting on endorse, support or in anyway condone The Church of Satan... at least i hope not!)
Back on Topic...
I highly recommend the blackout cloth. I thought that i needed a brighter bulb while i was shining at a sheet or the wall but when i got the cloth and stretched it over a frame not only did i get a professional looking screen but a much clearer and brighter image as well. Stretched across the windows it let's me watch anytime of the day i want.
At less than $15 for 3 yards it made a great 82 inch screen in 4x3 ratio. It would make an even wider screen if you took it up to 16x9. I'm making felt attachments to quickly transform it from NTSC Standard to Anamorphic Windscreen and every size in between. BTW black felt absorbs light and when used to boarder your screen will make nice crisp edges and get rid of that annoying overshoot that is never quite square.
Paul
access256 said:
I built my own projection screen (you'll never get a clear image without one!) using blackout cloth. Not only does it have a positive gain but is also useful for its original purpose. I didn't have enough left over to make curtains but i was able to stretch it across my windows and tack it up. I now have complete darkness at high noon. I'll start burning red candles and hanging pentagrams soon. DIY Satanic Worship now that's a forum.
(Lest anyone think I'm serious the above statements are JOKES! Neither I nor the diyAudio servers nor my ISP nor the desk chair I'm sitting on endorse, support or in anyway condone The Church of Satan... at least i hope not!)
Back on Topic...
I highly recommend the blackout cloth. I thought that i needed a brighter bulb while i was shining at a sheet or the wall but when i got the cloth and stretched it over a frame not only did i get a professional looking screen but a much clearer and brighter image as well. Stretched across the windows it let's me watch anytime of the day i want.
At less than $15 for 3 yards it made a great 82 inch screen in 4x3 ratio. It would make an even wider screen if you took it up to 16x9. I'm making felt attachments to quickly transform it from NTSC Standard to Anamorphic Windscreen and every size in between. BTW black felt absorbs light and when used to boarder your screen will make nice crisp edges and get rid of that annoying overshoot that is never quite square.
Paul
I am actually using an old glass beaded screen from the old Super-8 projector days. It does a good job brightening up the image but too small (Good for testing though). After I get decent results with the projector I will definitely build a screen. I was hoping to make one I can mount on the ceiling and pull when I am using the projector. As for blocking the windows I have this pet peeve about that I enjoy open windows and my kitchen is completely open to the living room (my projector room) and I'm sure the wife will decide to clean the kitchen as soon as I start the projector! Unfortunately I think I'll have to go with more projector output 🙁
video panel drivers
hey all can anyone tell me if you need drivers for the diffrent projector panels like the spectra c etc
hey all can anyone tell me if you need drivers for the diffrent projector panels like the spectra c etc
Dirvers? You mean like monitor drivers? No you should already be able to support vga output for these with standard windows monitor drivers....plug N prey (plug-N-play)! If its s-video or rca your video card must have tv out and it will have the drivers needed.🙂