DIY Video Projector Part II

Paul is right Billet

2 floodlights ????? 65 watts each fluorex bulbs ( bulbs alone cost about $9 each and go about 25.000 hours)

i did not remove the photocells, hust covered them with some black tape (yes i was too lazy!)

then i used ONE of the orignal covers to hold them together in the front ( i reversed a frontplate and used some stainless steel nuts and bolts (see detail of one of the pics)
the rearend was put together with again nut & bolt

the reason for using one orignal cover is: the plastic is perfectly heat or should i say warm resistant= no significant increase in temp. I incorporated a 5" 12 Enermax fan, i should have known better: more cooling that it needs but that's ok for now.

I piad $30 each at Home depot

the plastic fresnel ( i want to change it to a glass one) does the focussing or should i say in my words the job pretty well : i coudl clearly see the light being brough together into a rectangular shape and then i covered the fresnel with black fotopaper that i recuperated from a foto book ,and i cut out the size of the lcd screen.
i saw this at ZARK's website and s. o. a. gun that's all it took
soe playing around with 2 lenses delta IV and delta 67
( both have there good and bad points!! and
this weekend i have some friends over for the ocean's eleven viewing! with beer from my homecountry Belgium: Stella, Geuze, Hoegaarden en Triple Palm!

Skoll!
 
OK I am finally ready for my first post. I've been reading both parts of this forum (wow like 230 pages) I tried to print the first part and it was going to take over 1000 pages! Any way I have been playing with the flourex lights and heres what I got so far. I tried 1 light and got a washed out image but a viewable one in darkness. Then I was hesitant but went out to get another and tried that. The strangest thing happened when I put 2 of them behind my lcd the contrast of the lcd looked sooooo much better. Then I put my lens on front and almost passed out!! The image was beautiful. Now this image is through the lens of one of those Chrstmas/Holiday projectors that you put in the yard (my new lens should be here anyday.) Now I still don't have any frensels with the 2 light set up yet (got too late) but hopefully tonight I will get a chance. My question is how does this setup behave with light in the room. I have only tested at night (pitch black) I tried to get an image on an overcast day but was unsuccesful but my lens is only like 1.75 inches. Also I purchased a Delts 67 lens and it is just useless (the typical focus problem due to curvature). Anyway sorry for the long post just wanted a little input and let you know my progress. Maybe I'll try to take a pic of the image tonight and post it.

p.s.-- I also have a 400 watt MH fixture and buld at my father-in-laws house for free just incase 🙂
 
fresnel distance from LCD

Hi,
I am interested in making a "from scratch" lcd projector ala thumpers design and others...here's an observation that may be of use. I went ahead and purchased one of the overhead projection panels that is ready to go (it's an Apollo Q2 unit)...of course I tried it out on the overhead projector at work and it worked great. Here's the observation: The distance from the fresnel/glass stage of the overhead to the actual LCD unit is about 1"...in other words, the LCD and the fresnel have some distance between them and are not butted up against each other. Thought that was interesting.
George
 
Hey all,

Been a while since I posted because I defended my Ph.D. successfully and started a full time job. I finally got my condenser lens from Surplus Shed, but it isn't matching up with my current Fresnel and objective optics well. I am just going to buy an OHP and strip it out to build the optics of this thing.

uvodee- I would be interested in LOA's but I want to see some screenshots of your projector working, not just the box. To me it seems like you must be getting hotspots and coldspots, because the setup you have can't be creating a nice even light field. However everyone has different standards, so I respect that you have something you like. Please post some screenshot when you can!

J
 
hi Cadd

so you live in Austria...

humm Gaby Addler from some place in south Vienna city, thang long time ago .......

well any way , Gaby left such a strong impression on me that i now like all austrians!and if you do not find them in Austria, i can send some over there.
will not be very cheap i guess and then there is the issue that the ballasts/bulbs are 120 and not 220 volts. the packing is not that heavy .....
if you want to i could do it for you. you can pay me through paypal i guess, i have an account there for my ebay and other bizz. i bought them at Home depot at 29.95 each plus 8.8 pct sales tax (local sales tax)

let me know if you are interested!
 
Fibonacci

I would sincerely like to know what you guys think about the issue of NOT using the 16/9 out of respect of the humon body and old masters of paint!

What do you think and if you hesitate, look at a 16/9 and 16.1/10 format before and then answer ........

Jean-Pierre
 
Hi Biteon,
I think nothing wrong with parabolic reflector, good parabolic reflector will produce even parallel rays, of course there are some direct rays intervene parallel rays, from your previous attch. dwg #4, you describe clearly that direct rays mess up with parallel rays from reflector, that's why I propose to put small lens in front of the lamp to convert direct rays into parallel rays too. (see your previous attch. dwg #2).
From your attch. dwg #1 & 3, it's standard configuration of OHP, except OHP has second fresnel to condense parallel rays into objective lens.
Parallel rays is the best way to pass thru the LCD panel to avoid hotspot.
 
Hi All
Is it possible convert a laptop lcd panel to receive PAL video signal ? I am planning to buy a laptop lcd panel (IBM THINKPAD 760 C/EL 12.1" ACTIVE LCD PANEL) from ebay. Is this model good ?

Apart from lcd panel what else I need , how much it will cost.
 
CAD !!!!!!

Dear Cad, the pc psu is being used for a) the fan, b) the lcd monitor .

the lights are 120 volts ac and come after a fuse i put in just to be sure.

I personnaly think that fluorex technology is in Europe much longer than in the US maybe not under this name, have you tried Sylvania Europe ?

Jean-Pierre
 
to whom it may concern

pic of the $9.95 toy box while under power
 

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to whom it may concern II

a pic of the opening while lights are on before i installed the lcd , gresnel, glass and lens

Oops almost forgot, I used smoked glass in front of the camera, just to be sure that the optics inside the camera would not get damaged.
Me, i had no idea i had to do this, it was an engineer(my wife) who told me so!!!! grmmmpppsfffffffffffff!!!!

Jean-Pierre
 

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Re: CAD !!!!!!

uvodee said:
Dear Cad, the pc psu is being used for a) the fan, b) the lcd monitor .

the lights are 120 volts ac and come after a fuse i put in just to be sure.

I personnaly think that fluorex technology is in Europe much longer than in the US maybe not under this name, have you tried Sylvania Europe ?

Jean-Pierre

Sylvania by OSRAM
I will inquire by osram!

Which model is your lamp?

Ist the Lamp hot?
I tried a 1000W/220V Halogen Lamp - the brightness was great - but simply too hot! 🙁
 
Bright!

Jean-Pierre AKA uvodee

Well that looks bright!

Sounds like when combined 2 units put out more than twice the amount of focusable light. But is that all the light you want? I don't feel like spending an extra fifty just to find out it works but should be brighter.

The reason I'm attracted to this light is not because I'm a moth but because it would be so easy to contain. I don't want to close in the hot bulb that I am using now. I can't hold my hand 6 inches above it for very long and it's barely bright enough. If these 65 w lights do the trick they would be so much safer.

Jean where do you live maybe I'll take you up on that offer to come over so you can prove that it is bright enough!

Paul Billett - The Nephilum
 
another lurker finally posts...

Hello everyone, it really is about time I posted, I have absorbed so much and given back so little. I am at the stage of trying to tweak my projector to get a better image from it. My current setup is:

MH400W<->(100mm)<->OHPFresnels<->(~20mm)<->Projection panel<->(~400mm)<->8-1/2" PCXlens

The screen is about 3meters from the PCX lens. Transmission of light hasn't been too much of a problem for me. All but the darkest of scenes is viewable with daytime ambient light and I put this doen to the size of my PCX lens - it really is an impressive size and weighs over a kilogram (f400mm).

The problem I do see is the symptom of the single lens objective -aberration both spherical and chromatic, at the edges of the screen. At least thats what I think it is. Would this fit in with the visible symptoms of aberration? I'm not entirely sure if aberration is a symptom more obvious on the center or outer of an image.

Another observation I make is that the smaller you make the projected image i.e. the closer you move the projector to the screen, the less apparent the blurring is. But of course, I would like to retain the bigger image 🙂 .

Possible solution? : I believe that part of my problem may be due to my fresnels - Just two page magnifiers face to face. They have a combined focal length of 10mm and my PCX is f400m. In other persons experience, does a closer match of f(fresnel, objective) render a better image? I would of course be very interested to know of anyone else's experience in this area.

I understand that with this kind of system there are limits and you will never get the kind of performance demonstrated by commercial projectors, but I'm sure there is room for some improvement in my system.

Apologies for the long post, had to get it all out of the system 😉

J.Cousins

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Please check out my projector pictures at:

http://www.imagestation.com/member/?name=jamescousins
 
Hi vinyljunky,
my setup very similar with you, unless I use Halogen floodlight but I'm going to change with MH too.
How is your projection image look like?
Do you get uneven sharpness of the image? ie: sharp on the middle but blurr on all of outer sides? (I think this is called spherical abb.)
have you try to cover 1/3 of lens diameter (outer side) to reduce this problem?
About your fresnel, as long it can cover your lens with light beam (with adjusting it's position towards the lamp), it's OK.

I just received more lenses from Surplusshed brought by SushimasterX, thank's Gary...
I hope I get more quality improvement with this new lenses, I'll report here soon.

See you.