Hello ryanj everything is ok now. I m running fifopi to i2stosim board the problem was the i2s driver. Changed also the output stage to discrete..for testing. Also very good sound...
Good to hear its all working.
Ryan,
I've received the I2s convertor board. Thanks. Do I want to use a right-justified convertor board?
Going to start my build tommorow and have an S1 Crown on
the way.
Cheers,
Greg
I've received the I2s convertor board. Thanks. Do I want to use a right-justified convertor board?
Going to start my build tommorow and have an S1 Crown on
the way.
Cheers,
Greg
Ryan,
I've received the I2s convertor board. Thanks. Do I want to use a right-justified convertor board?
Going to start my build tommorow and have an S1 Crown on
the way.
Cheers,
Greg
Hi Greg,
Your welcome. You found an S1, nice!
You will need to feed the converter board multiplexed two’s complement = (I2S format).
Ryan,
I've received the I2s convertor board. Thanks. Do I want to use a right-justified convertor board?
Going to start my build tommorow and have an S1 Crown on
the way.
Cheers,
Greg
Much better 😀
Attachments
D3 CapMX PSU details
Details for D3 PSU PCB mentioned in post #259.
I'm using F-212Z from triad but its nothing special, all you need is two 24V windings rated at 24VA.
Depending on your mains regulation in your area you may want to adjust R4 and R5. I've found that 15R is about right to get an output of around 26 to 27V.
The diodes im using are BYV29 - but you may use whatever you have. You might want to get some schottky diodes - Allow for a current pulse of around 2.5A.
D3 CapMX PSU BOM
D3 CapMX PSU Schematics
Details for D3 PSU PCB mentioned in post #259.
I'm using F-212Z from triad but its nothing special, all you need is two 24V windings rated at 24VA.
Depending on your mains regulation in your area you may want to adjust R4 and R5. I've found that 15R is about right to get an output of around 26 to 27V.
The diodes im using are BYV29 - but you may use whatever you have. You might want to get some schottky diodes - Allow for a current pulse of around 2.5A.
D3 CapMX PSU BOM
D3 CapMX PSU Schematics
Last edited:
I'm no expert, but shouldn't the ink on the crown and S1 be the same?
I believe it is genuine. If you go through the thread that discusses real vs fake, there are examples that look just like it.
Guys,
I bought it with my Credit Card, so if it's a fake I've got 6 months to claim it as fraud. My CC company will ask no questions and refund my money. The vendor I bought it from sells a lot of vintage NOS components. He's got some really odd old stuff. Been around a long time.
I'm not worried about it and I have my plain 1541 non A (non SEM) to compare it to.
We shall see soon enough....not worried.
Cheers,
Greg
I bought it with my Credit Card, so if it's a fake I've got 6 months to claim it as fraud. My CC company will ask no questions and refund my money. The vendor I bought it from sells a lot of vintage NOS components. He's got some really odd old stuff. Been around a long time.
I'm not worried about it and I have my plain 1541 non A (non SEM) to compare it to.
We shall see soon enough....not worried.
Cheers,
Greg
I think the lettering on the S1 was all over the place. Here is a pic of mine from 88. I have no idea if it is genuine but it works and sounds as people describe.
I use the S2. Some like it some do not. Lucky to have choices.
I have the same S2.. did you pick that up from Elab on diyaudio 20 years back?
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