If you want to see more of the images from my projector to compare with yours, i had them in slideshow. I had just updated it and it can be seen here.
Again, please use internet explorer browser only. Will not work with opera. i am not sure with netscape.
http://www.hertzblaster.statichost.co.uk/myresults.htm
Again, please use internet explorer browser only. Will not work with opera. i am not sure with netscape.
http://www.hertzblaster.statichost.co.uk/myresults.htm
Hi!
Herzblaster, as you have been taking lots of result pictures, I'd be really happy if you'd also take some images like mentioned in the http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=38726&highlight= thread and post them on that thread, that would be wonderful, thanks 🙂
HB
Herzblaster, as you have been taking lots of result pictures, I'd be really happy if you'd also take some images like mentioned in the http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=38726&highlight= thread and post them on that thread, that would be wonderful, thanks 🙂
HB
Tiarb,
Thanks for comments. I would try it sometimes. You know i feel lazy using my pc as video source because i have to set it up whenever i want to use it and its kinda messy in my small house and just happy and satisfied with the result using composite input of dvd player. I will just put a disc and lie down in the couch then with a remote, boom! i have a nice image. Of course with pc image is better because i can use 800x600 resolution instead of 640x240 with the dvd player.
Hertz
Thanks for comments. I would try it sometimes. You know i feel lazy using my pc as video source because i have to set it up whenever i want to use it and its kinda messy in my small house and just happy and satisfied with the result using composite input of dvd player. I will just put a disc and lie down in the couch then with a remote, boom! i have a nice image. Of course with pc image is better because i can use 800x600 resolution instead of 640x240 with the dvd player.
Hertz
Found a good use for a cheap magnifying lens. My experience is shared here
http://hertzblaster.proboards12.com/index.cgi?board=lens
http://hertzblaster.proboards12.com/index.cgi?board=lens
heya hertz, you been reading my thread about duel condensers? same thing, you dont move your light at all back, the first condenser has to be a short focal and the socond has to be a long focal, you only move the 2 condensers to get the image right or the image will go dim, having 2 condensers makes a diff eh? lol
Trev
Trev
Yes trev, i read your thread about your dual lens set-up the only difference we had is, since my condenser lens has about 6 inch focal, i have to use 2 then later add the magnifying lens. It really made the difference.
Had tried dual fresnel lens set-up but had not yet made any success.
Thanks a lot.
Had tried dual fresnel lens set-up but had not yet made any success.
Thanks a lot.
Sure no problem, i will just post it in my site.
BTW, need some comments from you guys about ballast. I am currently using ballast for mercury vapor lamp.
As far as I know, mercury vapor lamps uses ballast with ANSI rating of H37. After reading some more. I found out that i should be using a ANSI rating of M80 ballast for double ened bulb.
Will changing my ballast to M80 will further improve the lumen output of my lamp?
Anybody's insights will be appreciated.
Here is a link for beginners training for HID ballast. You must register to open the training session.
http://ult.digiscript.com/index.cfm
BTW, need some comments from you guys about ballast. I am currently using ballast for mercury vapor lamp.
As far as I know, mercury vapor lamps uses ballast with ANSI rating of H37. After reading some more. I found out that i should be using a ANSI rating of M80 ballast for double ened bulb.
Will changing my ballast to M80 will further improve the lumen output of my lamp?
Anybody's insights will be appreciated.
Here is a link for beginners training for HID ballast. You must register to open the training session.
http://ult.digiscript.com/index.cfm
Attachments
Try the life and saftey of the bulb or you, recomended ballasts are recomended by manufactures for a reason.
SAFTEY WARNING!!!!!!
Use only apropite ballasts and lamps in acordance to manufactures recomendations, failing to do so will result in a serious fire - personal injury risk!!! Trev
Heya hertz, over some time ive been conducting alot of experiments consiting of people's acheivments on getting thier image brighter, ive just done one of yours, the lcd tilt.
In my conclusion tilting a lcd wont make the image brighter, it will only change the contrast level of the lcd, if you tilt the lcd back you will loose colour and your black levels, if you tilt it forward you will have way better blacks and alot of colour, but the image will seem abit darker as you have the higher contrast level. The best place to put your lcd is square meaning dont tilt it, this doesnt go for all lcd's as ive only done the experiment with the lilliput but 0deg is the optimum contrast level on all lcds unless stated otherwise.
So realy your image that may seem brighter realy isnt, its the contrast level thats changing thats making it look brighter, the light from the lamp wont increase from tilting the lcd, only the contrast will change. In movies this can be a good idea to tilt lcds but in games not so unless you dont want to have any blacks.
Trev🙂
In my conclusion tilting a lcd wont make the image brighter, it will only change the contrast level of the lcd, if you tilt the lcd back you will loose colour and your black levels, if you tilt it forward you will have way better blacks and alot of colour, but the image will seem abit darker as you have the higher contrast level. The best place to put your lcd is square meaning dont tilt it, this doesnt go for all lcd's as ive only done the experiment with the lilliput but 0deg is the optimum contrast level on all lcds unless stated otherwise.
So realy your image that may seem brighter realy isnt, its the contrast level thats changing thats making it look brighter, the light from the lamp wont increase from tilting the lcd, only the contrast will change. In movies this can be a good idea to tilt lcds but in games not so unless you dont want to have any blacks.
Trev🙂
Hey Trev,
Thanks for those experiences that you had shared.
I did again lie my lcd flat without angle a few weeks back and here are my observation. Just for confirmation. I'd become so curious then how my projected image looks before.
1. Dark scene will be darker and a lot of times unwatchable.
2. Its true that you will lose some colors and black, but it is easily adjusted by increasing the contrast and satuaration. ( same adjustment that you have to make for laptop computer.)
3. The whole image is dim.
4. You can easily tell that if you are losing brightness if you started increasing the brightness setting from your lcd. I had to increase my brightness setting as much as 20%. Doing this lose the vividness or deepness of colors. The whole image just looks whiter but not brighter. Whites looks washed-out. Black is ugly.
Default brightness setting of my lcd is 127. Max setting is 220. I remember that i have to set my brightness to 180-200 to get watchable but not comforatable viewing before. Present brightness setting is 135 to 155 depending on disc quality.
Contrast default setting is 81. Before i had to set-it to 65 to get dark scene viewable. Right now it is set at default 81 even at night/dark scene . Can go to 101 with bright dvd's.
Saturation default setting is 81. Right now my setting is between 81-101 depending on the disc.
Rest back my set-up with angled LCD, and I can really tell the big difference. I will be posting more pictures soon but this time. i had another brightness improvement just by using magnifying lens.
The magnifying lens was positioned under my condenser lens without breaking under intense heat ( 1 cm clearance). It has the same focal as my condenser lens. Magnifying lens have different quality. I found one that is very clear . cheap and most important of all , the beam projected fits my lcd well without moving the light engine away from the bottom fresnel.
Other than the benefit of bright image with angled lcd, the colors are much better and bolder because you can increase your contrast and saturation setting in the lcd.
And again, it works perfectly well for my own set-up. And for clarification, I am not suggesting that it will work for all LCD.
I remember a friend telling me that angled lcd did not work for him. He is using an Hitachi 12in LCD 800x600 . The brand of monitor is Super with built-in TV tuner. Maybe if he is reading this, he can share to us the model of his Hitachi LCD.
BTW, just a clarification for split and unsplit fresnel.
For unsplit fresnel, you have to angle the fresnel, otherwise half of the image will be dim.
for split fresnel- The bottom fresnel should not be angled. Top fresnel is angled.
Split fresnel is the best for my set-up.
Thanks again Trev. It really helps when someone is doing some reviews or checking with someone's work. Makes our learning and understanding of this activity/project better. It really helps to share information.
Hertz
Thanks for those experiences that you had shared.
I did again lie my lcd flat without angle a few weeks back and here are my observation. Just for confirmation. I'd become so curious then how my projected image looks before.
1. Dark scene will be darker and a lot of times unwatchable.
2. Its true that you will lose some colors and black, but it is easily adjusted by increasing the contrast and satuaration. ( same adjustment that you have to make for laptop computer.)
3. The whole image is dim.
4. You can easily tell that if you are losing brightness if you started increasing the brightness setting from your lcd. I had to increase my brightness setting as much as 20%. Doing this lose the vividness or deepness of colors. The whole image just looks whiter but not brighter. Whites looks washed-out. Black is ugly.
Default brightness setting of my lcd is 127. Max setting is 220. I remember that i have to set my brightness to 180-200 to get watchable but not comforatable viewing before. Present brightness setting is 135 to 155 depending on disc quality.
Contrast default setting is 81. Before i had to set-it to 65 to get dark scene viewable. Right now it is set at default 81 even at night/dark scene . Can go to 101 with bright dvd's.
Saturation default setting is 81. Right now my setting is between 81-101 depending on the disc.
Rest back my set-up with angled LCD, and I can really tell the big difference. I will be posting more pictures soon but this time. i had another brightness improvement just by using magnifying lens.
The magnifying lens was positioned under my condenser lens without breaking under intense heat ( 1 cm clearance). It has the same focal as my condenser lens. Magnifying lens have different quality. I found one that is very clear . cheap and most important of all , the beam projected fits my lcd well without moving the light engine away from the bottom fresnel.
Other than the benefit of bright image with angled lcd, the colors are much better and bolder because you can increase your contrast and saturation setting in the lcd.
And again, it works perfectly well for my own set-up. And for clarification, I am not suggesting that it will work for all LCD.
I remember a friend telling me that angled lcd did not work for him. He is using an Hitachi 12in LCD 800x600 . The brand of monitor is Super with built-in TV tuner. Maybe if he is reading this, he can share to us the model of his Hitachi LCD.
BTW, just a clarification for split and unsplit fresnel.
For unsplit fresnel, you have to angle the fresnel, otherwise half of the image will be dim.
for split fresnel- The bottom fresnel should not be angled. Top fresnel is angled.
Split fresnel is the best for my set-up.
Thanks again Trev. It really helps when someone is doing some reviews or checking with someone's work. Makes our learning and understanding of this activity/project better. It really helps to share information.
Hertz
Anybody interested in HQI-TSD vs HQI-NDL projected image comparison? I am getting lazy now taking pictures but if there will be alot out there who is still deciding what color temp is the best before buying i can take lots of pictures tomorrow Saturday here.
BTW the last image I posted is using the HQI-TSD. The rest are all using HQI-NDL. I cannot compare now the quality with the image i posted before because my pj brightness is now even brighter than before because of the use of magnifying glass.
My initial results suggest the following.
HQI-NDL 1. white is white
2. Looks brighter
3. Color is lively but on the pale side.
4. More natural looking skin tone but a little in the pale side.
HQI-TSD
1. white is slightly green or sometimes slightly blue
2. Color is darker
3. Noticeable slightly green and slightly blue tint
4. Contrast looks better
BTW the last image I posted is using the HQI-TSD. The rest are all using HQI-NDL. I cannot compare now the quality with the image i posted before because my pj brightness is now even brighter than before because of the use of magnifying glass.
My initial results suggest the following.
HQI-NDL 1. white is white
2. Looks brighter
3. Color is lively but on the pale side.
4. More natural looking skin tone but a little in the pale side.
HQI-TSD
1. white is slightly green or sometimes slightly blue
2. Color is darker
3. Noticeable slightly green and slightly blue tint
4. Contrast looks better
Heya hetz, no problem , i agree with you on that, 2 heads are better then one.
I see you got some interesting differing results from me so i think its obvious its down to the panels plolarisers and colour filters, more so i guess to the polarisers veiwing angle. Just for the record the lilliput i have has a hitachi lcd in it and thats why my findings are similar to your buddies. I know with a benq series of monitors they have to have a split frensel in order to work, what these are like tilted im not too sure but i gather its somthing along the lines of your panels veiwing angles specs.
I find also that your findings with the 2 lamps you have are different from mine also, i find the 4200k lamp to have dark colouring and whites while the 5100k hqi-tsd has a much whiter and more vibrant colours. Reflectors make a big difference to colouring also and so do lenses, its typical of a dichoric reflector to have a colour shift of 300k alone. FYI the glass in a magnifying glass lens is strait shank glass, becarful cos it will explode on you if you get it too hot.
Nice findings buddy and keep up the good work, now with all of your experimenting going on mind that flex cable wont ya? lol i dont wana hear you come back here and tell us all your lcd is dead from testing too much.
Trev🙂
Trev,
Thanks for the reminder about lcd. As you know the first lcd I bought, benq 567s is dead in two weeks because of my carelessness.
I learned from my mistake already.
BTW w/ regards to HQI results, it really puzzled me that we had differing results. I am already thinking that my ballast is not giving the full load/brightness capability of my bulb.
Have u ever compared the brightness of a bulb using magnetic and electronic ballast?
As you know the line voltage here is 220v. Do you happen to know the voltage rating of this HQI-TSD and HQI-NDL? Is it rated 240v or 220v or 277v? I found out that the M80 ballast is rated 277v.
I may try upping the voltage if necessary or probably buy an electronic ballast if it really can help.
The attached pics is using HQI-NDL. Observe the neutral white color.
I am gonna collect images later using HQI-TSD. It really has a green and blue color. Its the same green tint i observed with some guy's images using HQI-tsd bulb or bulb with high color temp.
And also i did an observation of those metal halide bulbs that lighting up the big billboards. i noticed that at one billboard,not all bulb produces the same white intensity. Others are greenish white. As far as i know from what i read, its one of the problem in the production of metal halide bulb, the uniformity in color temp during each production run.
Hertz
Thanks for the reminder about lcd. As you know the first lcd I bought, benq 567s is dead in two weeks because of my carelessness.
I learned from my mistake already.
BTW w/ regards to HQI results, it really puzzled me that we had differing results. I am already thinking that my ballast is not giving the full load/brightness capability of my bulb.
Have u ever compared the brightness of a bulb using magnetic and electronic ballast?
As you know the line voltage here is 220v. Do you happen to know the voltage rating of this HQI-TSD and HQI-NDL? Is it rated 240v or 220v or 277v? I found out that the M80 ballast is rated 277v.
I may try upping the voltage if necessary or probably buy an electronic ballast if it really can help.
The attached pics is using HQI-NDL. Observe the neutral white color.
I am gonna collect images later using HQI-TSD. It really has a green and blue color. Its the same green tint i observed with some guy's images using HQI-tsd bulb or bulb with high color temp.
And also i did an observation of those metal halide bulbs that lighting up the big billboards. i noticed that at one billboard,not all bulb produces the same white intensity. Others are greenish white. As far as i know from what i read, its one of the problem in the production of metal halide bulb, the uniformity in color temp during each production run.
Hertz
