So Dave, this post caught my attention, I love simple. How good is this design, can it hang with a Pensil 10P? Can't imagine a sealed box producing the bass of a Pensil, but please school me...thanks
It is different. Very good — especially after tarting it up. But i personally prefer A10PeN (and a few others).
But there is no accounting for what compromises some people will make and others they will not.
How well the extention works depends a whole lot on the room. F3 of a Pensil will be a smaller number, but Toole has shown that to be meaningless to the human ear/brain. Best look at F6/F10 and think about how much room lift you get in your room (speaker placement factors in as well).
Take car ethat you mind the scales.
dave
But there is no accounting for what compromises some people will make and others they will not.
How well the extention works depends a whole lot on the room. F3 of a Pensil will be a smaller number, but Toole has shown that to be meaningless to the human ear/brain. Best look at F6/F10 and think about how much room lift you get in your room (speaker placement factors in as well).
Take car ethat you mind the scales.
dave
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Keep in mind that while shape of sealed enclosure of optimal volume would be far less critical to LF extension / tuning - whether for single driver/full range systems, or multi ways - it can still effect external acoustic properties such as baffle step loss and edge diffraction frequencies.
Of the scores of Dave or Scott Lindgren’s designed I’ve built, very few other than sub-woofers were sealed, and the vast majority gave much consideration to shape and driver placement.
As for ease of build, I must say that some of the fiddliest of them all were the trapezoidal micro sized vented designs of which Dave will be happy to post pictures.
We start getting too technical . 
In the other hand if anyone here agrees i will try to go with Pencil 12 Alpair 12p design and give the wood work document to the wood worker to tell me a estimated price for the building .
Do you suggest any other speaker cabinet design other that pencil ones . As of little search there are the only ones having detailed design documentation for wood work
In the other hand if anyone here agrees i will try to go with Pencil 12 Alpair 12p design and give the wood work document to the wood worker to tell me a estimated price for the building .
Do you suggest any other speaker cabinet design other that pencil ones . As of little search there are the only ones having detailed design documentation for wood work
The FA22RCZ could easily go to 40hz about flat in a vented box though. Going to 30hz will not be "humongous" either.
Closed box is easy + good and all. But if you got the potential, why not use it?
Would have to turn it up fairly high before you ran into doppler issues, not crazy loud, but should be adequate for most needs.
Closed box is easy + good and all. But if you got the potential, why not use it?
Would have to turn it up fairly high before you ran into doppler issues, not crazy loud, but should be adequate for most needs.
We start getting too technical .
In the other hand if anyone here agrees i will try to go with Pencil 12 Alpair 12p design and give the wood work document to the wood worker to tell me a estimated price for the building .
Do you suggest any other speaker cabinet design other that pencil ones . As of little search there are the only ones having detailed design documentation for wood work
I think you made a good choice. I haven't personally heard the A12's, but I'm a fan of MarkAudio speakers. Part of the frustration with building a set of speakers is deciding which ones. My advice would be to go with what you have decided. You'll get dozens of suggestions, each of which will have merit. What usually happens is that you have one set built, enjoy them, and start thinking of the next build. It's a bit addicting, this DIY speaker thing.
Mike
Fat fingers plus when i was in high school i never forsaw a need to be able to type (boy was i wrong), so i took Grade 11 math instead of Grade 10 typing.
At least i figured out how to turn off my capslock key so capatilization issues happen less now.
dave
Sorry if i was not clear.
I will go to a wood worker to cut the cabinet as explained in the design document .
When the wood worker finish the speakers cabinet what i have to do next :
1. Apply stuffing inside the box
2. make wholes for the speaker inputs
3. Install the speaker to the cabinet connecting also the wires
That was my question
I will go to a wood worker to cut the cabinet as explained in the design document .
When the wood worker finish the speakers cabinet what i have to do next :
1. Apply stuffing inside the box
2. make wholes for the speaker inputs
3. Install the speaker to the cabinet connecting also the wires
That was my question
I don't know what's the deal with the insanely expensive drivers using tech from the sixties. AER, Cube, Voxativ, all trying to out-Lowther Lowther.
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