HI guys i'm interested in building this lens do you have any "idiotproof" guidelines for the choiche of the prisms. Tomorrow i have to check a trophy shop for the glass prisms and/od a glass lab for if i had to go with the DIY prisms.
My questions are i have a 4/3 matrix is that possobile to build an anamorphic lens that stretch horizontally the image that can be reconfigured on the fly (by changing relative angles of the prisms) for displayng 16/9, 1.85/1 and 2.35/1 or i have to build different lenses?
What are the correct angles for the prisms (i mean the shape of the wedge not the relaitive angle), for water/oil or turpentine and glass/glass?
Thanks in advance.
My questions are i have a 4/3 matrix is that possobile to build an anamorphic lens that stretch horizontally the image that can be reconfigured on the fly (by changing relative angles of the prisms) for displayng 16/9, 1.85/1 and 2.35/1 or i have to build different lenses?
What are the correct angles for the prisms (i mean the shape of the wedge not the relaitive angle), for water/oil or turpentine and glass/glass?
Thanks in advance.
One of the guys was posting about the same thing (last page I think) where he has combined a Panamorph VC with a DIY HE to convert a 1.33:1 image into a 2.37:1.
Personally, I would stick with the 33% stretch that we know works (you can turn your 4 x 3 into a 16:9) and in time upgrade your projector to a 16:9 model.
I would try the trophy shops first before attempting to build prisms and liquid fill them...
Mark
Personally, I would stick with the 33% stretch that we know works (you can turn your 4 x 3 into a 16:9) and in time upgrade your projector to a 16:9 model.
I would try the trophy shops first before attempting to build prisms and liquid fill them...
Mark
Hey Guys,
just about to finish my HT. obtained a set of the Prisms from Roar(thanks again bud) and now looking to purchase PJ and Screen.
Not looking to get this thread off topic, but was wondering if there is any preference to type of PJ ie. LCD vs DLP vs LCOS? Has anybody had any good or bad experences with things like Rainbow effect, affecting the CIH setup with these lenses?
I am looking at the new Sony VW60 or the Panasonic PT-AE2000?
or maybe it just doesn't matter!
just wanting to be sure before I buy. can't wait to hook up these lenses....
Rotten Rod.
just about to finish my HT. obtained a set of the Prisms from Roar(thanks again bud) and now looking to purchase PJ and Screen.
Not looking to get this thread off topic, but was wondering if there is any preference to type of PJ ie. LCD vs DLP vs LCOS? Has anybody had any good or bad experences with things like Rainbow effect, affecting the CIH setup with these lenses?
I am looking at the new Sony VW60 or the Panasonic PT-AE2000?
or maybe it just doesn't matter!
just wanting to be sure before I buy. can't wait to hook up these lenses....
Rotten Rod.
Thanks for the reply, what are the correct angles for the trophy prisms to convert 4/3 to 16/9?
ROTTEN ROD said:
I would avoid the Panny due to the Smooth Screen. If you can afford the Sony (had a play with one on Saturday night- very impressive), buy that or look at DLP. I am looking at BenqW10000 as I have not seen any RBE on this projector yet and I am sensitive to Rainbow...
bluedeath said:
It will depend where you obtain the prisms. There are several out there each with a different angle, so in the end, buy or build a screen with the correct AR (in your case 1.78:1) and align the prisms in the light path...
Mark
Lens Case.
Hey Stevodude,
not sure if I have missed out on some of the conversation here but i zoomed in on your lens setup and i noticed that you have your Prisims in a Metal casing? And you mentioned taking off the stickers? I am assuming you have removed the blackout tape that was used in the past and just encased the edges of the lens in the metal to:
1)blackout the edges
2)allow you the freedom to rotate the prism angles
if so can i get more info on material used etc... because it looks to be a sweet setup.
Also, I noticed the one nut and bolt on the bottom. with the thickness of the wood you used (looks to be 1/2 inch) do you have issues with the lenses sitting straight up or do they lean?
Rotten...
Hey Stevodude,
not sure if I have missed out on some of the conversation here but i zoomed in on your lens setup and i noticed that you have your Prisims in a Metal casing? And you mentioned taking off the stickers? I am assuming you have removed the blackout tape that was used in the past and just encased the edges of the lens in the metal to:
1)blackout the edges
2)allow you the freedom to rotate the prism angles
if so can i get more info on material used etc... because it looks to be a sweet setup.
Also, I noticed the one nut and bolt on the bottom. with the thickness of the wood you used (looks to be 1/2 inch) do you have issues with the lenses sitting straight up or do they lean?
Rotten...
Re: Lens Case.
the top and bottom of the prisms are sitting on some 4mm rubber black hard rubber I had sitting around. the rubber-prism-rubber are sandwidged with top triangle aluminum and bottom triangle aluminium with 2 threaded rods (one on each end) and tightened till it's tight... 🙂
the bottom triangle aluminium has a plate pot-rivited across the triangle in roughly the correct swivel point & then I mounted a bolt with nut top/bottom to the plate and long enough to go through the wood. This is stiff enough so the prisms don't sag.
I hope you get the idea?...
I have some photo's of preliminary adjusting with a piece of wood, before I built the casing...
One is actually different than the other, cause I changed my mind when building them, so one is trangular the other is rectangular.
And you can see the manufactuing sticker on the prism...
Here's a down and dirty case I built before making the newer one...
Hope that helps...
No blackout around the edges, just the original chinese manufacturing sticker on it - removed.ROTTEN ROD said:
yes, I can just push the prism's on either side to adjust
12mmx1.2mm angle aluminum, overlapped and pot-riveted.
the top and bottom of the prisms are sitting on some 4mm rubber black hard rubber I had sitting around. the rubber-prism-rubber are sandwidged with top triangle aluminum and bottom triangle aluminium with 2 threaded rods (one on each end) and tightened till it's tight... 🙂
the bottom triangle aluminium has a plate pot-rivited across the triangle in roughly the correct swivel point & then I mounted a bolt with nut top/bottom to the plate and long enough to go through the wood. This is stiff enough so the prisms don't sag.
I hope you get the idea?...
I have some photo's of preliminary adjusting with a piece of wood, before I built the casing...
One is actually different than the other, cause I changed my mind when building them, so one is trangular the other is rectangular.
And you can see the manufactuing sticker on the prism...
Here's a down and dirty case I built before making the newer one...
Hope that helps...
Would that be in the middle of the prism 50/50? or say 60/40 towards the thick end?
what was your preference the Triangular? it looks neater than the rectangular. does one affect the image more than the other? easier to align?
sorry for all the questions but it looks sturdy, and i like that. would not want to break or scratch a lens. (hey Mr. Bray).
Also, i saw your HT setup on your web album... really liked your curved screen. might have a question or two regarding your screen material, angles etc... but this might not be the forum for that. maybe you could send me an e-mail with the details...
thanks,
Rotten...
Guys i cannot fid some1 who sells the glass prisms here in Italy, have the prisms made by glass craftmens is really not an option.
is it possibile to build water/water prisms couples ?
is it possibile to build water/water prisms couples ?
Mark Techer said:
Hello Mark,
I am new to this forum and am so glad I found it. There has been so much hard work done by all of you and really appreciate the sharing of knowledge from all your experiences.
I was actually considering buying the Panny AE-2000 due to its ability to do the vertical stretch. I see in your post that not to buy it if you are planning on doing CIH because of the smooth screen. Can you please tell me what the smooth screen does to the image when using the anamorphic prisms.
Thanks for your reply.
Kyess
TwisterZ said:
hahaha , thats the color coding of the cable, but nah, thats component video, just that that was the only 3xrca - 3xrca extension lead I had, so the red/white/yellow is actually Pr/Pb/Y 🙂
PANNY PT-AE2000U
Hey Mark/durango,
looks like i took the plunge with the Panasonic PT-AE2000U! the price, the flexibility and the Vertical stretch sold it for me... i will be setting up my system prior to Christmas and hope to have a Blu-Ray/HD player either just before or just after. then i will set up my lenses and let you know how the panny works out. i hope the soft screen is not a factor!! i have purchased a CARADA 120" classic cinema white screen with 2:35 ratio.
so all the components are there... will advise in the new year how i make out - will try and have Roar over to aid in the process...
Rotten Rod.
Hey Mark/durango,
looks like i took the plunge with the Panasonic PT-AE2000U! the price, the flexibility and the Vertical stretch sold it for me... i will be setting up my system prior to Christmas and hope to have a Blu-Ray/HD player either just before or just after. then i will set up my lenses and let you know how the panny works out. i hope the soft screen is not a factor!! i have purchased a CARADA 120" classic cinema white screen with 2:35 ratio.
so all the components are there... will advise in the new year how i make out - will try and have Roar over to aid in the process...
Rotten Rod.
Re: PANNY PT-AE2000U
Hi Rotten,
Thanks for the reply. I am almost there to pull the trigger on the Panny also. Please let me know how you make out. Without this forum I don't know how I could have taken a plunge into the CIH world. Thanks to all who make it easy for newbies like me.
kayess
ROTTEN ROD said:
Hi Rotten,
Thanks for the reply. I am almost there to pull the trigger on the Panny also. Please let me know how you make out. Without this forum I don't know how I could have taken a plunge into the CIH world. Thanks to all who make it easy for newbies like me.
kayess
I read allot of posts by Panny owners where most seem to complain that the thick glass of the prisms is making the image soft. Granted, yes, you are stretching the lighgt by 33%, and TR pending, the image may soften slightly due to CA as well. The purpose of Smoothscreen is to soften the image so that pixel structure is not visibe. I fail to why it is needed in the 1080 models.
I do not read these kind of complaints from other projector owners, so it just a heads up. You may or may not eve notice any change, but I feel that it is worth taking into consideration if seeking a 1080 projector...
Mark
I went through this thread and couldnt really find what I was searching. that is ; what is the relation with the prism and the lens size.
how much bigger do the prisms need to be ? I guess this depends on the throw of the projector, but is there a rule of thumb ?
I have a DIY projector and would like to try out the anamorphic lens on it, but the lens I am using has 110mm diameter, and I want to start looking for matching prisms ...
thanks
how much bigger do the prisms need to be ? I guess this depends on the throw of the projector, but is there a rule of thumb ?
I have a DIY projector and would like to try out the anamorphic lens on it, but the lens I am using has 110mm diameter, and I want to start looking for matching prisms ...
thanks
kunteper said:
The sizes are mentioned several times, but what your really asking what TR do I need to make this work.
The TR (Throw Ratio) is the distance from the primary lens (not sure what you DIY guys call the primary, but the one closest to the screen) divided by the width of the native image beam.
EG, 4m throw divided by 2.2m wide image = 1.818:1, and the prisms I use in my lens (140mm x 170mm) will work down to and possibly below 1.3:1...
Mark
Hey guys, just registered and have gotten my prisms. Ive had a theater for a while and am zooming for 2.35 and am tired of knowing im losing V resolution. Its weighing heavy on my heart! so... i was locally able to pick up my 5x7 lenses at a trophy shop and had them coated by local high end camera and lens shop. so im now looking at a mount system. Is a box really needed or can the lenses be "freefloating" on a minimal frame? I can etch all sides of the lenses and black that out, thats not an issue. if that solves the reflection problems then I should notneed a surrounding box to contain the "spill".