DIY ACA mini

Indeed it does look very nice, and while the temperatures of the FETs might not be excessive in that configuration, I'd guess that the electrolytic caps are going to be living in a much warmer environment than they do in the non-inverted configuration.

I think there is something elegantly efficient in Nelson's design with the 4 heat-producing FETs and their heatsinks at the outside corners. This ensures, IMO, that once upward convection of the surrounding air starts, it carries most of that heat up and out, with the more interior parts of the board will be spared from much of the heat from the FETs.
 
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@100ohms
Did you put J1 (H2/H3 selector) on top like you did for your power switch?
I’m asking because mine (J1) wouldn’t work well upside down.

Eric
There is the standard power switch only, with power on to the left and the sound remains a short time after switching off.
Sorry, I'm not yet familiar with H2/H3 selector. Do you mean a switch for jumper in/out? Would keep this point for a further modification.
 
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Yes I mean the jumper J1
When the jumper isn’t there you will have more 2nd
Jumper J1 (Open).PNG
harmonic (H2), if you add the jumper to J1 you will have more 3rd harmonic(H3), see pictures.
Jumper J1 (closed).PNG
 
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Hi everyone, just starting on this amp after loving the ACA and going full-bore on the Tungsten mods on the premium parts thread.

Just double checking the BOM as my kit is missing two of the 6.8k resistors and two of the 221k resistors, but does include two 22k resistors and two 200k resistors.... have their been any value changes or substitutions at R3 or R4? or am I just missing and/or have incorrect parts in my completion kit?

Thanks!
 
It was raining today so decided to crack-on and build my mini. When I powered it up with all (2k but not Bournes) pots turned counterclockwise I could smell heat and then smoke. Switched-off and did some checks but could not find anything obvious, and assuming something expensive had failed, decided to start again with the pots fully clockwise. Surprisingly, no heat or smoke and then proceeded to initially set bias and the mid point with some success. Will try final set-up tomorrow. Any ideas? Thanks.
 
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@Mark Johnson @Nelson Pass (M occurs N ;-) )

many thanks for for these nice toys (Filter / AMP)!


What should it say ...

only with one filter from MJ I had the feeling to hear a change but was not sure.
Now I have test two filters in series, first I heard completely without filter and then with both.
First, with less details and now with both both filters bring in my chain is more clear treble and a little more control to the bass (i think).

Other chain ... any other results. ;-)
P.S.: I don’t know why …..


IMG_0092.jpeg
 
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Low ohm resistor I think - had to act quickly. Heatsink on one 9540 also hot but bias should have been at its lowest with pots counterclockwise, as per instructions (double checked both).
Is your pot actuallt CW or is it potentially CCW? Lift the pot and check.

Then begin finding out where the smoke came from. I like to fire up amps with the pots in the mid position. Less danger of instentaneous blowup. Of course, a DMM across source resistors to get fair warning of excess current draw is also smart.
 
Thanks! I found an updated BOM in the site which reflected this change.

I am starting the bias process, between GND and VO I am getting about 11.8 with the trimpots counterclockwise at 0, and I am getting no voltage across VB. Ideas? Are there easier instructions than in the Pass Article?