I suppose you could put tiny pieces/splinters/sawdust, whatever in there, but it probably is not going to add much mass. Especially not as much as something as heavy as sand.
Does anyone have a copy of the article “Loudspeaker Enclosure Walls” Peter W Tappan
I would like to take a look at this.
THANKS
I would like to take a look at this.
THANKS
How would PVC pipe work as a cabinet ?
Also How about plywood screwed onto a angle section welded steel frame.
I dont quite feel comfortable with MDF or wood even. I am much more at home with metal.
Thanks.
Cool.
Srinath.
Also How about plywood screwed onto a angle section welded steel frame.
I dont quite feel comfortable with MDF or wood even. I am much more at home with metal.
Thanks.
Cool.
Srinath.
Cold rolled steel can make a fine enclosure...
PVC pipe works too...
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/projects/sampson/index.html
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/projects/davidduke/index.html
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/FALL/toobz/index.html
dave
PVC pipe works too...
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/projects/sampson/index.html
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/projects/davidduke/index.html
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/FALL/toobz/index.html
dave
You are freaking kidding me ... Red Green version 2.
BTW I can do this but I wont because of the work it will take.
There is a 2-3 ft diameter white oak that someone knocked down by my house.
Been cut into 4-5 ft sections too. Get 2 of those and start whittling away a nice 15-18 inch cavity ... get down to 2-3 ft depth. Then drill an oblique hole till you see daylight. Of course you can hand peel it or use it with the bark. Then fit your drivers on the sides and the woofer on the top.
Of course you can do it all upside down also, sit the thing 6 inches up on a few legs and let the woofer fire downwards.
Imagine, 2 pieces of 3 ft dia, 4 ft tall white oak as your "speakers".
Of course you knock down the nearest pine tree for the rear ...
Cool.
Srinath.
BTW I can do this but I wont because of the work it will take.
There is a 2-3 ft diameter white oak that someone knocked down by my house.
Been cut into 4-5 ft sections too. Get 2 of those and start whittling away a nice 15-18 inch cavity ... get down to 2-3 ft depth. Then drill an oblique hole till you see daylight. Of course you can hand peel it or use it with the bark. Then fit your drivers on the sides and the woofer on the top.
Of course you can do it all upside down also, sit the thing 6 inches up on a few legs and let the woofer fire downwards.
Imagine, 2 pieces of 3 ft dia, 4 ft tall white oak as your "speakers".
Of course you knock down the nearest pine tree for the rear ...
Cool.
Srinath.
Yea my mechanic (who actually has a 2ft dia pine trunk lying about) wants to burn the whole tree with drilled vent hole and a axial hole so it will burn side ways with forced air from the vent hole etc ...
I suspect a stupid project comming sometime. Either that or we burn down the house.
Cool.
Srinath.
I suspect a stupid project comming sometime. Either that or we burn down the house.
Cool.
Srinath.
Referring to the snow picture.
"The Red Green Show" was a Canadian television comedy show.
The Red Green Show - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
They often built strange devices out of duct tape and old cars that would fail is strange ways!
I'm just designing cabinets for a pair of subs and after taking delivery of my baltic birch ply it occurred to me that if the aim is to increase the resonant frequency of the panels one option we have available is to put tension in the panels by bending then into a curve.
One very simple test with any piece of easily bendable ply will demonstrate that the resonant frequency rises with increased tension and I suspect the amplitude of any ringing will be reduced also.
Does anyone here have any experience or advise with this method
mike
One very simple test with any piece of easily bendable ply will demonstrate that the resonant frequency rises with increased tension and I suspect the amplitude of any ringing will be reduced also.
Does anyone here have any experience or advise with this method
mike
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Mike, good idea - but...
ask anyone who builds glider aircraft or race boats. Laminate rounded structures of multiple layers of thin plywood and you get an incredible stiffness vs. weight ratio.
You´ll want to invest in a firm making clamps, though...if you think you can guess how many you´ll need - take drugs and think big.😀
ask anyone who builds glider aircraft or race boats. Laminate rounded structures of multiple layers of thin plywood and you get an incredible stiffness vs. weight ratio.
You´ll want to invest in a firm making clamps, though...if you think you can guess how many you´ll need - take drugs and think big.😀
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well - how's this for an idea . . .
make the cab in the regular way - then when the all the glue has dried etc take some heavy duty threaded rod who's length is the same as the width of your cabinet.
Add two nuts to the rod - one each end. Then position the rod in the centres of the sides and begin unscrewing the nuts. This is an easy way to apply tension to the two sides of the cabinet.
I think because the ply is so stiff originally even a small amount of movement will give a good amount of tension.
How's that sound ? . . . . . ( the idea, not the box 😉 )
make the cab in the regular way - then when the all the glue has dried etc take some heavy duty threaded rod who's length is the same as the width of your cabinet.
Add two nuts to the rod - one each end. Then position the rod in the centres of the sides and begin unscrewing the nuts. This is an easy way to apply tension to the two sides of the cabinet.
I think because the ply is so stiff originally even a small amount of movement will give a good amount of tension.
How's that sound ? . . . . . ( the idea, not the box 😉 )
Hmmm...that would show you how shear forces can wreck glued joints! But threaded rods are a secret wunderwaffe! A normal clamp has a span of 15-20cm, two lengths of 2"x2"hardwood, holes at the end and clamped together with threaded rods, washers and a spanner - two ft. are not a problem.🙂
Bending the playwood to put it under tension will increase its resonant frequency. This has been brought up before. You can either make it convex by using shaped braces (as done for instance in the B&W Nautilus 800 series), or as in the previous post, tension it with something like ready rod. If the latter, use BIG washers and you may find a need to damp the rod inside the box as it will become as a tensioned guitar srting and itself cause secondary issues.
In a subwoofer, where higher than the passband is quite easy to acheive it may just be added complexity.
dave
In a subwoofer, where higher than the passband is quite easy to acheive it may just be added complexity.
dave
<In a subwoofer, where higher than the passband is quite easy to achieve>
Dave, it´s a pity neither of us is queer, otherways we´d marry. Charging crazy money for sub enclosures not resonating where they never reach in the first place...money for nothing and the chicks for free! (OK, I´m a DIY hardcore, so I don´t need to be that clever)
Dave, it´s a pity neither of us is queer, otherways we´d marry. Charging crazy money for sub enclosures not resonating where they never reach in the first place...money for nothing and the chicks for free! (OK, I´m a DIY hardcore, so I don´t need to be that clever)
So you think unbraced will sound just as good as braced ???
I'm using 3/4" baltic birch ply and my dimensions are approx 550 x 400 x 425mm
X-over 100Hz
I'm using 3/4" baltic birch ply and my dimensions are approx 550 x 400 x 425mm
X-over 100Hz
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I don't post here often and just saw this thread. Anyone ever tried ceramic? I saw this article a couple days ago and was really intrigued.
Handmade Clay Speakers Belt Out The "Sound of the Earth" : TreeHugger
Handmade Clay Speakers Belt Out The "Sound of the Earth" : TreeHugger
Hmmm...no maths here, but I once covered the complete insides of a TL with simple cheap bathroom tiles...xover was at ~100, so no idea about midrange - but in bass it was really worth it. Weight is a problem, though. Wifey might mind your buying a forklift instead of a sportscar.
I'd brace them for sure. What you need to ensure with a sub is that it doesn't balloon.
With your dimensions i'd probably have at least 4 braces --all running in the long direction and perpendicular to the long panels.
dave
my favourite mix was 1/2" of mdf bonded to 1/2" of concrete with some PVA mixed in for good measure - but that was bookshelf speakers. not really practical for my new subs.
No freaking kidding
No kidding, I pulled a XS650 crank apart this way - used regular bolts in the 5/8th flavor, all the nay sayers on the xs650 site promptly shut up.
I then proceeded to rephase to 277 degrees and weld up the crank ... yet to get inside a motor that crank.
Anyway, My guess, a pair of 5/8th bolts was good for ~4-6 tons of force.
Cool.
Srinath.
No kidding, I pulled a XS650 crank apart this way - used regular bolts in the 5/8th flavor, all the nay sayers on the xs650 site promptly shut up.
I then proceeded to rephase to 277 degrees and weld up the crank ... yet to get inside a motor that crank.
Anyway, My guess, a pair of 5/8th bolts was good for ~4-6 tons of force.
Cool.
Srinath.