tilt said:
I have not found the sliding top cases in the US... You have a part #?
The only ones I have been able to find were the retangular "tube" enclosures.
rabstg said:
http://www.hammondmfg.com/1455ptblb.htm
You should be able to find the correct part number looking at theses pictures.
DS
Dark Shadow said:
I clicked on the first couple and they were solid tubes..
I checked the rest just to be "Thorough" and WALA! the BOTTOMS are remove able!
Thanks again!
Evilsizer said:
Negative. The first few are solid all the way around, the next few have removable bottoms. Click on the picture and it enlarges.. Hmmm that sounds funny 😉 .
If you look at the number of screws per side you can tell, 4 per side means removable, 2 per side means perminant bottom.
You can go to Mouser to buy them.
here
I think I'm going to try the 1455N2202 . This will give me a little playing room and I am hoping to add input selection and dual RCA outputs, one will be going to a subwoofer amplifier the other to my tube amp or GC.
Josh
You can go to Mouser to buy them.
here
I think I'm going to try the 1455N2202 . This will give me a little playing room and I am hoping to add input selection and dual RCA outputs, one will be going to a subwoofer amplifier the other to my tube amp or GC.
Josh
Thanks Russ and Brian, I got the preamp today it looks very nice. Unfortunately I didn't get to look at it but for the couple second it took to open up the package because I had to go to a friends house. It is so mini, much smaller than I expected. I have to wait for my AD8620s to come until I will assemble the circuit.
Thanks,
Josh
Thanks,
Josh
Uff! I finished to read the thread...
Congratulations to twistead pear audio for this effort
It looks as a wonderful price/performance project
I have a question regarding Tx wiring:
I saw some members actually send both "center tap" TX leads to the ground power connector on the PCB. These leads carry all the current that flow on the TX.
Wouldn't it be better to follow the diagrams provided and solder both "center tap" wires far from PCB, near the TX, and then send from there a single wire to atain the mentioned power connector?
Thanks
M
Congratulations to twistead pear audio for this effort
It looks as a wonderful price/performance project
I have a question regarding Tx wiring:
I saw some members actually send both "center tap" TX leads to the ground power connector on the PCB. These leads carry all the current that flow on the TX.
Wouldn't it be better to follow the diagrams provided and solder both "center tap" wires far from PCB, near the TX, and then send from there a single wire to atain the mentioned power connector?
Thanks
M
maxlorenz said:
Hi Max,
Thanks a lot for the kind words. You are of course correct that it would be better to do as you suggest, It is simply easier to wire it they way Brian suggested, I don't think in practice it makes any tangable difference though because the leads of the transformer we supply are very short.
Cheers!
Russ
Thanks, Russ, for the quick answer 🙂
I think I'm gonna fall for these... my lady will kill me 😉
Come on guys, be more expressive and share with us your listening experiences!
We are starving 😀
Best wishes...
Mauricio
I think I'm gonna fall for these... my lady will kill me 😉
Come on guys, be more expressive and share with us your listening experiences!
We are starving 😀
Best wishes...
Mauricio
Russ White said:
Thanks Russ! I'm trying to decide wether to wait to build my Kookaburra or wait for the Darwin.
Russ White said:
I guess I didn't word that to well. What I meant to say is I was trying to decide wether to go ahead and build the preamp I already bought from you without the Darwin or wait to build it until I got the Darwin and incorporate it into the preamp.
Oooops!!! Sorry to misunderstand you. 🙂 Well you can always get the kooka done first at least you will have something to play with in the mean time. 🙂
Cheers!
Russ
Cheers!
Russ
a bit of confusion here. on TI page the 2310 is the 15 volt one and the 2311 is 5 volt. but when i recieved my 2310 the package said 5V
confusion
http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/pga2310.html
confusion
http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/pga2310.html
Hello all,
I've finished my kookaburra just now, but it doesn't work!!
All components are in the right place,but when I tried (with my inverted Gainclone) all the sound that I can hear is like a bzzz-bz-bzzzzz-bzz....
I try with a tester and I found the right and left signals "OUT" are in short circuit with the ground, so is it normal?? I checked all PCB starting from left and right signals "IN"(not in short cicuit)trough OP and Pic (with or without them)and at the end 3 pin header "OUT" are in short circuit!!
So, I'm not very able in electronic,pot +5 header is OK, all seems ok, but it doesn't work!
Someone can help me please?
Alessandro😕
I've finished my kookaburra just now, but it doesn't work!!
All components are in the right place,but when I tried (with my inverted Gainclone) all the sound that I can hear is like a bzzz-bz-bzzzzz-bzz....
I try with a tester and I found the right and left signals "OUT" are in short circuit with the ground, so is it normal?? I checked all PCB starting from left and right signals "IN"(not in short cicuit)trough OP and Pic (with or without them)and at the end 3 pin header "OUT" are in short circuit!!
So, I'm not very able in electronic,pot +5 header is OK, all seems ok, but it doesn't work!
Someone can help me please?
Alessandro😕
magnum_1 said:Someone can help me please?
Alessandro😕
Hi Alessandro,
Is it possible for you to post some pictures of the top and bottom of the board? Close up would be great.
I am sorry you are having rouble. Lets see if we can get you fixed up.
Cheers!
Russ
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