I'm more experienced with enclosures than crossover design...but my concept was a large, full range floor standing speaker suspended on feet a few inches with a 4 cubic foot enclosure and one large flaired DOWNWARD firing port tuned to about 21.5 Hz. Both my DIY sub and Signet 280 speakers had ports tuned BELOW the woofers fs...which seems to result in very deep extension and very low distortion or port noise....but I've never known anyone to use the A26re4 in this alignment?
I'd rather have a lean, low, smoothly rolled off bass that an 40hz boom! Modelling suggests I should be able to get flat response in room down to near 16hz!
For anyone interested in Orangutran clones, check out the Makako project
http://www.dibirama.altervista.org/...-makako-2-vie-bass-reflex-8-ohm-300-wmax.html
http://www.dibirama.altervista.org/...-makako-2-vie-bass-reflex-8-ohm-300-wmax.html
Just speed read it. Looks like you will get your answer if you get the specs of the port part mentioned in the BOM, and yes it looks like they use flares.
Our "Divorced" received many acclaims at the Horten 23 HiFi show DIY-apt. The XO is none of the above mentioned, my own spin-off.
An American couple where the wife is a musician stated that this was the system she thought sounded best on the show.
Others liked the big powerful system better, no surprise
The larger system are all Bliesma BE domes in MTM together with AE bass-tower and SEAS ROY x 4 subs. An awesome system indeed (not mine).
An American couple where the wife is a musician stated that this was the system she thought sounded best on the show.
Others liked the big powerful system better, no surprise
The larger system are all Bliesma BE domes in MTM together with AE bass-tower and SEAS ROY x 4 subs. An awesome system indeed (not mine).
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What did you end up with for your crossover? If it is not a secret recipe, would you care to share?
I’m still quite happy with the minimalist (cap+resistor) XO, but it is always interesting to see how other people handled the situation, especially when the results were good.
Best regards,
John
I’m still quite happy with the minimalist (cap+resistor) XO, but it is always interesting to see how other people handled the situation, especially when the results were good.
Best regards,
John
New member here, though I have enjoyed reading these forums for quite some time, and this is my first post. I'm planning to do an O/96 "clone" build this winter and the thread here has been super helpful, so I thank all who have contributed. I was actually wanting to send @force of 1/2 a PM since he seems still active on the thread and also actively enjoying his build, which is a great sign - but I'm unable to do so as a new member.
I lack an experience with passive electronics comparisons, so was hoping someone could chime in on this question which has to do with resistors and capacitor quality. I understand higher spec brings higher price but I see, for instance, 3.9uF-3%-100VDC capacitors at wildly different price points and don’t know how to account for why this is. This is not me being a cheapskate – if a proper one costs $300, then so be it. Just trying to understand what the order of magnitude in price brings. I don't mean this to become religious debate on brands, just a distinction of "audio cap" vs run of the mill ones from DigiKey or Mouser.
Cheers,
Robert
I lack an experience with passive electronics comparisons, so was hoping someone could chime in on this question which has to do with resistors and capacitor quality. I understand higher spec brings higher price but I see, for instance, 3.9uF-3%-100VDC capacitors at wildly different price points and don’t know how to account for why this is. This is not me being a cheapskate – if a proper one costs $300, then so be it. Just trying to understand what the order of magnitude in price brings. I don't mean this to become religious debate on brands, just a distinction of "audio cap" vs run of the mill ones from DigiKey or Mouser.
Cheers,
Robert
Further to my last post... never mind. A bit more research I should have done before posting revealed the "audio cap" vs standard grade is even more controversial than the fist-fights over who's audio capacitor is "better". I didn't realize that, though I should have guessed. Anyway, posing the question makes me look like a troll, so please let me retract it and offer apologies.
I'm reconsidering my choice to build an O/96 clone in favour of an O/93 for a couple reasons. I own a pair of DeVore O/93 so I would be able to compare the DIY to the "real thing" directly. If I like the DIY as much, or even nearly as much, as I do the original I would sell the originals. And then very likely begin a build of the O/96. I would assume the box designs to be very nearly identical in construction other than dimensions and feet vs stands.
Drivers will be the same CAT378/A26RE4 and I assume, perhaps wrongly, that the same simple crossover would be used - I guess this is my question to the group here. Has anyone done an O/93 "hommage" and can advise?
Cheers,
Robert
I'm reconsidering my choice to build an O/96 clone in favour of an O/93 for a couple reasons. I own a pair of DeVore O/93 so I would be able to compare the DIY to the "real thing" directly. If I like the DIY as much, or even nearly as much, as I do the original I would sell the originals. And then very likely begin a build of the O/96. I would assume the box designs to be very nearly identical in construction other than dimensions and feet vs stands.
Drivers will be the same CAT378/A26RE4 and I assume, perhaps wrongly, that the same simple crossover would be used - I guess this is my question to the group here. Has anyone done an O/93 "hommage" and can advise?
Cheers,
Robert