I will admit, I'm only comparing it to other headphone amps that can be used as preamps, but still...
I have the DDB HPA, an ACP+ HPA, and a Whammy HPA. I find that the music I play through the DDB sounds more dynamic and has more punch. Especially when playing classic and hard rock which are two of my favorite categories.
I have the DDB HPA, an ACP+ HPA, and a Whammy HPA. I find that the music I play through the DDB sounds more dynamic and has more punch. Especially when playing classic and hard rock which are two of my favorite categories.
Hi X,
first let me thank you for the DDB module, it literally saves my otherwise failing project. I will come back when finished with my implementation and measurements.
But I need your help too. While the module powers up and works fine it still does not bias as expected to ~40 mA. I barely get 20 mA, even less actually as it warms up. Both channels are equal. I measured all resistor values on the board, they are ok and as per schematic. The culprit appears to be the reference LEDs. They only develop 1.87 V on them while obviously there had to be somewhere around 2.7 V as follows from your simulation schematic in the PDB thread using LED NSCW100 type. 2.7 V would indeed provide enough reference for output biasing to 40 mA or so. Power rails are ±15 V.
Can you advise please how do I best go about it to bring up the bias. Replace LEDs? Reduce resistor values in CSs or emitter resistors of output BJTs?
Thanks in beforehand!
first let me thank you for the DDB module, it literally saves my otherwise failing project. I will come back when finished with my implementation and measurements.
But I need your help too. While the module powers up and works fine it still does not bias as expected to ~40 mA. I barely get 20 mA, even less actually as it warms up. Both channels are equal. I measured all resistor values on the board, they are ok and as per schematic. The culprit appears to be the reference LEDs. They only develop 1.87 V on them while obviously there had to be somewhere around 2.7 V as follows from your simulation schematic in the PDB thread using LED NSCW100 type. 2.7 V would indeed provide enough reference for output biasing to 40 mA or so. Power rails are ±15 V.
Can you advise please how do I best go about it to bring up the bias. Replace LEDs? Reduce resistor values in CSs or emitter resistors of output BJTs?
Thanks in beforehand!
I am using the Lite On LED with specs showing voltage drop as circa 2v.
https://optoelectronics.liteon.com/upload/download/DS22-2000-228/LTST-C191KGKT.PDF
It might be that your transistors HFe’s are different.
you can cut the value of the large emitter resistors R212 and 213 to half the value (2.2R) to double the current. Or change the resistors on the front end to increase the bias current (preferred way).
Perhaps @jhofland can chime in as to how to fix this.
It might be that R204, 205, 206, 211 could be cut in half to double the current in the front end?
https://optoelectronics.liteon.com/upload/download/DS22-2000-228/LTST-C191KGKT.PDF
It might be that your transistors HFe’s are different.
you can cut the value of the large emitter resistors R212 and 213 to half the value (2.2R) to double the current. Or change the resistors on the front end to increase the bias current (preferred way).
Perhaps @jhofland can chime in as to how to fix this.
It might be that R204, 205, 206, 211 could be cut in half to double the current in the front end?
Thank you @xrk971 for the quick response.
Ok, I see, the LED datasheet says that Vf = 2V is measured at 20mA. Since the LED in the DDB is fed by only ~1.2mA, my measurement of Vf = 1.87V makes sense. I can of course increase the forward current to maybe 5 mA but that would not change much the output bias current.
What did you mean exactly by "change the resistors on the front end"? The 100 Ω resistors R201 and R202? The simulator prompts that these resistors would need to be increased to at least 3 kΩ to get the output bias closer to 40 mA. Would that be right?
Ok, I see, the LED datasheet says that Vf = 2V is measured at 20mA. Since the LED in the DDB is fed by only ~1.2mA, my measurement of Vf = 1.87V makes sense. I can of course increase the forward current to maybe 5 mA but that would not change much the output bias current.
What did you mean exactly by "change the resistors on the front end"? The 100 Ω resistors R201 and R202? The simulator prompts that these resistors would need to be increased to at least 3 kΩ to get the output bias closer to 40 mA. Would that be right?
Hi X,
another happy user of DDB here!
I have found the reason for the low bias (had to change two resistors) and once at it I also took the liberty to adjust few other components to my liking. Those SMDs are so small for hand soldering but the learning curve alone was worth the effort.
The DDB board found its place inside an inferior project from a kit I picked up at Ali/Bay. I was about to take out all reusable components and ditch the rest when I came across the DDB thread. The DDB board dimensions were fitting the space for the amplifier section so perfectly that it looked like being designed just for this case. Miracle! I kept the PSU (modified to CRCRC), the protection, DAC and self-designed input switcher in their places and added the DDB board instead of the former amplifier section. Works now perfectly both as headphone amp and pre-amp.
The photo also shows some odd point-to-point additions on top of the DDB board. Those were necessary for removal of DC offset on the output. Since my DDB board came pre-populated with NE5532, the volume pot could not be connected to the board in the same way as in case of the FET input OPA1642. Rewiring the pot wiper connection to before the input DC blocking capacitor expectedly resulted in higher DC offset. I had negative ca 60 mV, which was in agreement with what simulator had told me. The added positive voltage injection network now keeps the offset within 2 mV.
I also had to retain zobel on the output even though simulator indicated no need for it. I tried the board without the zobel but got small scale local HF oscillation (~80 mVpp) somewhere in the circuit with nothing connected to the output. I did not dig further to find out.
Step response is perfect in my view and the waveform remained undisturbed with any capacitive loads (I tested up to 220 nF). Note however that I am also using 2.7 Ω output resistor which does improve load immunity as well.
The THD measurement was in full alignment with your results - the 2nd harmonic dominates, there is a little bit of the 3rd but the rest stays in "grass". Below is 1 VRMS into 33 Ω:
Since my gear cannot reliably measure HD for higher frequencies, I resort to CCIF IMD. Same 1 VRMS into 33 Ω. Looks good to me:
Overall, very happy result! Lots of new learning and experience. DDB created the best thing possible out of otherwise miserable project.
Thank you very much for this board!
another happy user of DDB here!
I have found the reason for the low bias (had to change two resistors) and once at it I also took the liberty to adjust few other components to my liking. Those SMDs are so small for hand soldering but the learning curve alone was worth the effort.
The DDB board found its place inside an inferior project from a kit I picked up at Ali/Bay. I was about to take out all reusable components and ditch the rest when I came across the DDB thread. The DDB board dimensions were fitting the space for the amplifier section so perfectly that it looked like being designed just for this case. Miracle! I kept the PSU (modified to CRCRC), the protection, DAC and self-designed input switcher in their places and added the DDB board instead of the former amplifier section. Works now perfectly both as headphone amp and pre-amp.
The photo also shows some odd point-to-point additions on top of the DDB board. Those were necessary for removal of DC offset on the output. Since my DDB board came pre-populated with NE5532, the volume pot could not be connected to the board in the same way as in case of the FET input OPA1642. Rewiring the pot wiper connection to before the input DC blocking capacitor expectedly resulted in higher DC offset. I had negative ca 60 mV, which was in agreement with what simulator had told me. The added positive voltage injection network now keeps the offset within 2 mV.
I also had to retain zobel on the output even though simulator indicated no need for it. I tried the board without the zobel but got small scale local HF oscillation (~80 mVpp) somewhere in the circuit with nothing connected to the output. I did not dig further to find out.
Step response is perfect in my view and the waveform remained undisturbed with any capacitive loads (I tested up to 220 nF). Note however that I am also using 2.7 Ω output resistor which does improve load immunity as well.
The THD measurement was in full alignment with your results - the 2nd harmonic dominates, there is a little bit of the 3rd but the rest stays in "grass". Below is 1 VRMS into 33 Ω:
Since my gear cannot reliably measure HD for higher frequencies, I resort to CCIF IMD. Same 1 VRMS into 33 Ω. Looks good to me:
Overall, very happy result! Lots of new learning and experience. DDB created the best thing possible out of otherwise miserable project.
Thank you very much for this board!
This amazing little amp has been discussed as part of the DB thread but I think it deserves its own thread given how it has quite different objectives from the Pocket Diamond Buffer (PDB) HPA.
This desktop variant uses TO-126 output BJTs with dedicated heatsinks and does not have the separate MOSFET rail switching needed for the pocket one. The setpoints have been optimized for a moderate 40mA nominal bias current that will let you run in full Class A operation for most headphone uses. It will leave Class A around 250mW into 32 ohms. Of course, you can adjust the emitter resistors to run higher bias currents. I have used it with +/-9v, +/-12v, +/-15v and +/-18v supplies and they all work great. It was designed for 15v rails but I don’t think performance suffers much from using lower voltage. For your particular use case you may want more voltage. High impedance 300ohm cans like more voltage, for example. There is lots of room for input cap rolling and I have used huge 4.7uF 400v MKPs and also smaller 0.47uF film to bypass 10uF Elna Silmic electrolytic caps.
Here’s a photo of a built up amp board in operation:
View attachment 1260866
With larger MKP caps only:
View attachment 1260877
I initially struggled with an oscillation but chased it down to a feedback compensation cap that was too large. That’s all fixed now rock solid. A stability analysis on LtSpice pointed me in the right direction. So the schematic shows a 470pF cap needing to be replaced with 47pF. It’s an easy swap and I’ll do this on the SMT pre populated boards that I will be offering in my shop. I will also have bare PCBs for those wanting to assemble it themselves.
Here is schematic for the overall amp, very simple. Power supply in, audio in, audio out and volume pot with MicroMatch IDC cable to an RK09 pot helper PCB (included).
View attachment 1260868
Here is schematic of the Diamond output stage:
View attachment 1260869
Here is a SMT prepopulated PCB so all you need to do is to install all the through hole parts:
View attachment 1260870
Both sides:
View attachment 1260874
Here is the board assembled with big 4.7uF MKP caps:
View attachment 1260871
Standard BOM calls for ECB pinout TO-126 BJTs (Toshiba TTA004 and TTC004) but if you have some classic Toshiba 2SA1837 and 2SC4795 (BCE pinout) you can mount them in the bottom like I did here - leaves a cleaner look on top giving you lots of access to the parts:
View attachment 1260879View attachment 1260878
Testing on the bench:View attachment 1260872
View attachment 1260873
Nice low distortion but second harmonic dominant distortion profile for 1Vrms into 33ohms:
View attachment 1260876
You will find that this headphone amp sounds very natural and clean, but has an incredible power reserve to deliver bass slam while maintaining great control authority of the driver transducer cone. It’s a wonderful headphone amp to listen to for hours. For normal headphone use (under 500mW power) basic AC/DC modules designed for delivering circa 350mA into 15v can be used with a 7812/7913 voltage regulator and it will work fine. You can also make really fancy PSU with linear trafos, cap multipliers, CLC, and low noise LDO’s etc. with a proper PSU capable of 750mA and +/-15v you can drive up to 1.5W into 32 ohms (for those fans of the HiFiMan HE-6).
I’ll be offering the SMT preassembled PCBs for $59. Bare PCBs for $22. Boards are all 1oz copper and ENIG finish.
https://xrkaudio.etsy.com/listing/1659118057
BOM is here. Note that BOM calls for OPA1642 but the pre-populated PCB has NE5532 installed. This was due to availability issues but I can assure you that the NE5532 sounds fantastic and measures well too. If you want to swap it out later, you are welcome to do so.
Quantity References Value Manufacturer MPN load type voltage Footprint 9 C107, C108, C109, C201, C202, C203, C301, C302, C303 1uF Samsung CL21B105KAFNNNE X7R 25V C_0805_2012Metric_Pad1.18x1.45mm_HandSolder 4 C205, C206, C305, C306 330uF Panasonic EEU-FM1V331LB 35V CP_Radial_D8.0mm_P5.00mm 3 C110, C113, C114 100nF WIMA MKS2D031001A00MSSD PET 100V C_Rect_L7.2mm_W2.5mm_P5.00mm_FKS2_FKP2_MKS2_MKP2 2 C101, C102 3u3 WIMA MKS2B043301H00KSSD PET 50V C_Rect_L7.2mm_W5.5mm_P5.00mm_FKS2_FKP2_MKS2_MKP2 2 C103, C104 33pF Samsung CL10C330JB8NNNC C0G 50V C_0603_1608Metric_Pad1.08x0.95mm_HandSolder 2 C105, C106 47pF Kyocera KGM15ACG2A470FT C0G 100V C_0603_1608Metric_Pad1.08x0.95mm_HandSolder 2 C111, C112 4u7 Audyn 027-114 DNP polyprop 400V CAP_Jantzen_17mmDx35mm_axial 2 C204, C304 180pF Samsung CL10C181JB81PND C0G 50V C_0603_1608Metric 8 R203, R208, R209, R210, R303, R308, R309, R310 10R YAGEO RC0603FR-0710RL R_0603_1608Metric_Pad0.98x0.95mm_HandSolder 6 R204, R205, R214, R304, R305, R314 22R1 YAGEO RC0603FR-0722R1L R_0603_1608Metric_Pad0.98x0.95mm_HandSolder 4 R103, R104, R107, R108 1K21 YAGEO RC0603FR-071K21L R_0603_1608Metric_Pad0.98x0.95mm_HandSolder 4 R109, R110, R207, R307 10K YAGEO RC0603FR-0710KL R_0603_1608Metric_Pad0.98x0.95mm_HandSolder 4 R201, R202, R301, R302 100R YAGEO RC0603FR-10100RL R_0603_1608Metric_Pad0.98x0.95mm_HandSolder 4 R206, R211, R306, R311 221R YAGEO RC0603FR-07221RL R_0603_1608Metric_Pad0.98x0.95mm_HandSolder 4 R212, R213, R312, R313 4R75 YAGEO RC1206FR-074R75L R_1206_3216Metric_Pad1.30x1.75mm_HandSolder 2 R101, R102 15R YAGEO RC1206FR-0715RL R_1206_3216Metric_Pad1.30x1.75mm_HandSolder 2 R105, R106 4K75 YAGEO RC0603FR-074K75L R_0603_1608Metric_Pad0.98x0.95mm_HandSolder 1 R111 10R YAGEO RC1206FR-0710RL R_1206_3216Metric_Pad1.30x1.75mm_HandSolder 2 D201, D301 green Lite_On LTST-C191KGKT LED_0603_1608Metric 1 U101 OPA1642 Texas Instruments OPA1642AIDR SOIC-8_3.9x4.9mm_P1.27mm 4 Q201, Q204, Q301, Q304 MMBT5401 Diodes Inc MMBT5401-7-F SOT-23-3 2 Q202, Q302 MMBT5551 Diodes Inc MMBT5551-7-F SOT-23-3 2 Q203, Q303 DMMT5401 Diodes Inc DMMT5401-7-F SOT-23-6 2 Q205, Q305 DMMT5551 Diodes Inc DMMT5551-7-F SOT-23-6 2 Q206, Q306 TTC004 Toshiba TTC004B,Q TO-126-3_Vertical 2 Q207, Q307 TTA004 Toshiba TTA004B,Q TO-126-3_Vertical 1 RV101 10K audio Alps Alpine RK09L12D0A1T RK09L_dual 2 HS201, HS301 Heatsink Aavid 513002B02500G heatsink_AAVID_53100202500G_TO220 2 J102, J104 WE_WR_MM_8 Wurth Electronik 690367180872 CONN_6910367180872_WE_WR_MM_8 2 J105, J108 XH_3pin JST B3B-XH-A(LF)(SN) JST_XH_B3B-XH-A_1x03_P2.50mm_Vertical 1 J103 XH_4pin JST B4B-XH-A(LF)(SN) JST_XH_B4B-XH-A_1x04_P2.50mm_Vertical 1 J107 spade TE Connectivity 62409-1 FASTON_TE Connectivity_62409
If you want to boost the output BJT bias current (80mA) for operation to a higher power under Class A, use this 2.2ohm metal thin film emitter resistor (R213/213/312/313):
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/TNPW12062R20DEEA?qs=vHuUswq2%2BswIE18TmZVkaQ==
Note that the heatsinks will get significantly hotter and the PSU also needs to provide more quiescent power.
For the 8pin Wurth IDC cable with matching connector for the potentiometer, get this cable (or its equivalent).
Dumb question time from a newbie.
Aren’t there better performing BJT than those older Toshiba ones in the BOM?
Isn’t their transition freq lower than let’s say another older BJT like the BD140?
Or their SMD equivalent? ( I think they are called BCP56?)
Thanks !
If you can find some new old stock of 2SA1837 and 2SC4795, they are better. But the TTA004 and TTC004 are modern BJTs that will perform better than you need. As can be seen in the recent measurements by nonills, it doesn’t get much better.Dumb question time from a newbie.
Aren’t there better performing BJT than those older Toshiba ones in the BOM?
Isn’t their transition freq lower than let’s say another older BJT like the BD140?
Or their SMD equivalent? ( I think they are called BCP56?)
Thanks !
thanks so much for the replies!
Appreciate it.
One more question.
When increasing the Bias voltage
thanks so much for the replies!
Appreciate it.
One more question.
When increasing the Bias current to 80mA, will this increase the THD a bit, but raise the H2 and lower the higher order harmonics ?
Appreciate it.
One more question.
When increasing the Bias voltage
This amazing little amp has been discussed as part of the DB thread but I think it deserves its own thread given how it has quite different objectives from the Pocket Diamond Buffer (PDB) HPA.
This desktop variant uses TO-126 output BJTs with dedicated heatsinks and does not have the separate MOSFET rail switching needed for the pocket one. The setpoints have been optimized for a moderate 40mA nominal bias current that will let you run in full Class A operation for most headphone uses. It will leave Class A around 250mW into 32 ohms. Of course, you can adjust the emitter resistors to run higher bias currents. I have used it with +/-9v, +/-12v, +/-15v and +/-18v supplies and they all work great. It was designed for 15v rails but I don’t think performance suffers much from using lower voltage. For your particular use case you may want more voltage. High impedance 300ohm cans like more voltage, for example. There is lots of room for input cap rolling and I have used huge 4.7uF 400v MKPs and also smaller 0.47uF film to bypass 10uF Elna Silmic electrolytic caps.
Here’s a photo of a built up amp board in operation:
View attachment 1260866
With larger MKP caps only:
View attachment 1260877
I initially struggled with an oscillation but chased it down to a feedback compensation cap that was too large. That’s all fixed now rock solid. A stability analysis on LtSpice pointed me in the right direction. So the schematic shows a 470pF cap needing to be replaced with 47pF. It’s an easy swap and I’ll do this on the SMT pre populated boards that I will be offering in my shop. I will also have bare PCBs for those wanting to assemble it themselves.
Here is schematic for the overall amp, very simple. Power supply in, audio in, audio out and volume pot with MicroMatch IDC cable to an RK09 pot helper PCB (included).
View attachment 1260868
Here is schematic of the Diamond output stage:
View attachment 1260869
Here is a SMT prepopulated PCB so all you need to do is to install all the through hole parts:
View attachment 1260870
Both sides:
View attachment 1260874
Here is the board assembled with big 4.7uF MKP caps:
View attachment 1260871
Standard BOM calls for ECB pinout TO-126 BJTs (Toshiba TTA004 and TTC004) but if you have some classic Toshiba 2SA1837 and 2SC4795 (BCE pinout) you can mount them in the bottom like I did here - leaves a cleaner look on top giving you lots of access to the parts:
View attachment 1260879View attachment 1260878
Testing on the bench:View attachment 1260872
View attachment 1260873
Nice low distortion but second harmonic dominant distortion profile for 1Vrms into 33ohms:
View attachment 1260876
You will find that this headphone amp sounds very natural and clean, but has an incredible power reserve to deliver bass slam while maintaining great control authority of the driver transducer cone. It’s a wonderful headphone amp to listen to for hours. For normal headphone use (under 500mW power) basic AC/DC modules designed for delivering circa 350mA into 15v can be used with a 7812/7913 voltage regulator and it will work fine. You can also make really fancy PSU with linear trafos, cap multipliers, CLC, and low noise LDO’s etc. with a proper PSU capable of 750mA and +/-15v you can drive up to 1.5W into 32 ohms (for those fans of the HiFiMan HE-6).
I’ll be offering the SMT preassembled PCBs for $59. Bare PCBs for $22. Boards are all 1oz copper and ENIG finish.
https://xrkaudio.etsy.com/listing/1659118057
BOM is here. Note that BOM calls for OPA1642 but the pre-populated PCB has NE5532 installed. This was due to availability issues but I can assure you that the NE5532 sounds fantastic and measures well too. If you want to swap it out later, you are welcome to do so.
Quantity References Value Manufacturer MPN load type voltage Footprint 9 C107, C108, C109, C201, C202, C203, C301, C302, C303 1uF Samsung CL21B105KAFNNNE X7R 25V C_0805_2012Metric_Pad1.18x1.45mm_HandSolder 4 C205, C206, C305, C306 330uF Panasonic EEU-FM1V331LB 35V CP_Radial_D8.0mm_P5.00mm 3 C110, C113, C114 100nF WIMA MKS2D031001A00MSSD PET 100V C_Rect_L7.2mm_W2.5mm_P5.00mm_FKS2_FKP2_MKS2_MKP2 2 C101, C102 3u3 WIMA MKS2B043301H00KSSD PET 50V C_Rect_L7.2mm_W5.5mm_P5.00mm_FKS2_FKP2_MKS2_MKP2 2 C103, C104 33pF Samsung CL10C330JB8NNNC C0G 50V C_0603_1608Metric_Pad1.08x0.95mm_HandSolder 2 C105, C106 47pF Kyocera KGM15ACG2A470FT C0G 100V C_0603_1608Metric_Pad1.08x0.95mm_HandSolder 2 C111, C112 4u7 Audyn 027-114 DNP polyprop 400V CAP_Jantzen_17mmDx35mm_axial 2 C204, C304 180pF Samsung CL10C181JB81PND C0G 50V C_0603_1608Metric 8 R203, R208, R209, R210, R303, R308, R309, R310 10R YAGEO RC0603FR-0710RL R_0603_1608Metric_Pad0.98x0.95mm_HandSolder 6 R204, R205, R214, R304, R305, R314 22R1 YAGEO RC0603FR-0722R1L R_0603_1608Metric_Pad0.98x0.95mm_HandSolder 4 R103, R104, R107, R108 1K21 YAGEO RC0603FR-071K21L R_0603_1608Metric_Pad0.98x0.95mm_HandSolder 4 R109, R110, R207, R307 10K YAGEO RC0603FR-0710KL R_0603_1608Metric_Pad0.98x0.95mm_HandSolder 4 R201, R202, R301, R302 100R YAGEO RC0603FR-10100RL R_0603_1608Metric_Pad0.98x0.95mm_HandSolder 4 R206, R211, R306, R311 221R YAGEO RC0603FR-07221RL R_0603_1608Metric_Pad0.98x0.95mm_HandSolder 4 R212, R213, R312, R313 4R75 YAGEO RC1206FR-074R75L R_1206_3216Metric_Pad1.30x1.75mm_HandSolder 2 R101, R102 15R YAGEO RC1206FR-0715RL R_1206_3216Metric_Pad1.30x1.75mm_HandSolder 2 R105, R106 4K75 YAGEO RC0603FR-074K75L R_0603_1608Metric_Pad0.98x0.95mm_HandSolder 1 R111 10R YAGEO RC1206FR-0710RL R_1206_3216Metric_Pad1.30x1.75mm_HandSolder 2 D201, D301 green Lite_On LTST-C191KGKT LED_0603_1608Metric 1 U101 OPA1642 Texas Instruments OPA1642AIDR SOIC-8_3.9x4.9mm_P1.27mm 4 Q201, Q204, Q301, Q304 MMBT5401 Diodes Inc MMBT5401-7-F SOT-23-3 2 Q202, Q302 MMBT5551 Diodes Inc MMBT5551-7-F SOT-23-3 2 Q203, Q303 DMMT5401 Diodes Inc DMMT5401-7-F SOT-23-6 2 Q205, Q305 DMMT5551 Diodes Inc DMMT5551-7-F SOT-23-6 2 Q206, Q306 TTC004 Toshiba TTC004B,Q TO-126-3_Vertical 2 Q207, Q307 TTA004 Toshiba TTA004B,Q TO-126-3_Vertical 1 RV101 10K audio Alps Alpine RK09L12D0A1T RK09L_dual 2 HS201, HS301 Heatsink Aavid 513002B02500G heatsink_AAVID_53100202500G_TO220 2 J102, J104 WE_WR_MM_8 Wurth Electronik 690367180872 CONN_6910367180872_WE_WR_MM_8 2 J105, J108 XH_3pin JST B3B-XH-A(LF)(SN) JST_XH_B3B-XH-A_1x03_P2.50mm_Vertical 1 J103 XH_4pin JST B4B-XH-A(LF)(SN) JST_XH_B4B-XH-A_1x04_P2.50mm_Vertical 1 J107 spade TE Connectivity 62409-1 FASTON_TE Connectivity_62409
If you want to boost the output BJT bias current (80mA) for operation to a higher power under Class A, use this 2.2ohm metal thin film emitter resistor (R213/213/312/313):
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/TNPW12062R20DEEA?qs=vHuUswq2%2BswIE18TmZVkaQ==
Note that the heatsinks will get significantly hotter and the PSU also needs to provide more quiescent power.
For the 8pin Wurth IDC cable with matching connector for the potentiometer, get this cable (or its equivalent).
thanks so much for the replies!
Appreciate it.
One more question.
When increasing the Bias current to 80mA, will this increase the THD a bit, but raise the H2 and lower the higher order harmonics ?
So it will only bring down the higher order harmonics and the H2 will be more dominant.
Not raise the H2 and lower the higher order.
Is that correct?
And would that change be audible in any qualitative way ?
Thanks so much!
Not raise the H2 and lower the higher order.
Is that correct?
And would that change be audible in any qualitative way ?
Thanks so much!
If you can find some new old stock of 2SA1837 and 2SC4795, they are better. But the TTA004 and TTC004 are modern BJTs that will perform better than you need. As can be seen in the recent measurements by nonills, it doesn’t get much better.
View attachment 1426774
Pardon but another newbie question.
Yeah, that’s a great performance. And nice succession of harmonics.
The THD doesn’t matter too much to me, the above is perfect, but could adding a supercapacitor bank lower the noise floor more and get rid of the small ‘ humps’ below 1khz in the power section ?
Or just adding more capacitance after the voltage regulators would do that ?
I know I know it’s not a DAC to need such a low noise floor. But I do believe in a super low noise floor.
Thanks and forgive me if my questions are tiring.
It’s a combination of things to get noise floor down. Adding caps only helps so much. Physical arrangement of components and where wires are routed make a big difference. Look up “Loop area” for EMI pickup. Basically an amp with wire paths that make a large loop will pickup more noise than ones with smaller loops or loops that are balanced with a bifilar wire of opposite phase.
Using cap multipliers is a big help. About -50dB to be gained there.
Good EMI filters with CMC chokes.
Using cap multipliers is a big help. About -50dB to be gained there.
Good EMI filters with CMC chokes.
Thanks so much for all the answers.
Ok hopefully this isn’t tiring you guys.
But do you hear a difference in the input Caps C111 and C112, if using let’s say wima or a higher end Film Foil like the Audyn or let’s say Mundorf?
Or is it such a small diff you wouldn’t tell in a blind test
Ok hopefully this isn’t tiring you guys.
But do you hear a difference in the input Caps C111 and C112, if using let’s say wima or a higher end Film Foil like the Audyn or let’s say Mundorf?
Or is it such a small diff you wouldn’t tell in a blind test