Look on ebay or ali for a 30W R-core trafo.
I like the option of 4 secondaries, several psu configurations from a single trafo 😉
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2336701429...uid=WsGheTUqSyi&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I like the option of 4 secondaries, several psu configurations from a single trafo 😉
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2336701429...uid=WsGheTUqSyi&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
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This is the transformer that I use:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3223556652...AZbEklNROC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3223556652...AZbEklNROC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I’ve got an extra I would sell you if you want. It’s brand new. I grabbed 2 when I built this dac along with enough of everything else to build 2 dacs. Not sure on price I think they were $30 each plus shipping. I’ll have to check
The best transformer is the one already on hand.
😎
😎
In general you don't need to waste time shielding the toroid. It's too far away to have any effect. Leave it as it is. You can check that easily. Install the Magnetometer app. for Android to your phone.
I have removed the input mains RFI filter from many of my DIY devices. Regardless of the theoretical advantages, I have noticed that the device sounds better without it. I probably used low-quality filters, but it's worth a try without it.
Of all the cheap OPAs, the OPA1641A performed best for me with the AD1862, ĄD1865 and PCM56. From expensive ones - Sparkos SS3601 and Burson V5 (obsolete). The Burson V6 Classic fits better with the PCM63 than with the AD1862 and AD1865. Burson V6 Vivid I didn't have a chance to try.
Of course, what is better for me does not mean that it will be better for everyone. It also depends a lot on the rest of the audio system.
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Whichever sample I make sounds a little different. Example mini DAC from #7,909. Various capacitors, transformer, voltage regulators, USB/I2S card, even the chip was purchased used AD1865N-K some from the beginning of production. And it sounds better to me than the last few I made for my sister and friends.
I made my sister a Bluetooth receiver with AD1865N-K. Probably the only one like that it in the world. 🤣
Before that they used SMSL B1. Good gadget, but the sound is not at this level. Regardless of the fact that BT is not lossless, you can hear a nice difference.
I made my sister a Bluetooth receiver with AD1865N-K. Probably the only one like that it in the world. 🤣
Before that they used SMSL B1. Good gadget, but the sound is not at this level. Regardless of the fact that BT is not lossless, you can hear a nice difference.
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A little help please,
I will be building Miro's board (S008) the one with the smt pads for the opamps. I will be using a psu 1, no shifters, and a JL Sounds usb to12s board. I saw Vunce's transformer choice a few posts above with the four secondary's, and I saw that he is powering the psu2 with the 12V secondary's. All fine so far.
Can the remaining 2 x 9V secondary's be used to power the JL Sounds board, as I do not want it powered from my PC ?
If the above is OK, I assume that another regulator ( or more) will be needed with the 9V secondary's ? Are there any recommended regulators for this setup.
Thanks, trying to wrap my head around this digital technology.
MM
I will be building Miro's board (S008) the one with the smt pads for the opamps. I will be using a psu 1, no shifters, and a JL Sounds usb to12s board. I saw Vunce's transformer choice a few posts above with the four secondary's, and I saw that he is powering the psu2 with the 12V secondary's. All fine so far.
Can the remaining 2 x 9V secondary's be used to power the JL Sounds board, as I do not want it powered from my PC ?
If the above is OK, I assume that another regulator ( or more) will be needed with the 9V secondary's ? Are there any recommended regulators for this setup.
Thanks, trying to wrap my head around this digital technology.
MM
Works! First try. Instinct is…. best DAC I’ve heard in the system? Had a few varieties over time… nothing past the $1k mark in the meaninglessly meaningful world of made up (to me) hi-fi prices… but…
Initial impression was YES! Just trying some tracks on Tidal. Sounded absolutely great. More critical listening later… Might do a little A/B in a week or so… see how things fair with movies etc. (it’s in service to the family in an otherwise vinyl-centric system.)
Now I will have to build AD1865 for comparison, actually have the board already stuffed, need to sort out PSU (option in hand), R-core tranny from post above, and I have a not JL USB interface… not sure what that will require to get working yet…
Will make a faceplate for the new DAC tomorrow.. I’ll post a final pic. Thanks for all the help, and of course to Miro! It was worth it….obviously.
Initial impression was YES! Just trying some tracks on Tidal. Sounded absolutely great. More critical listening later… Might do a little A/B in a week or so… see how things fair with movies etc. (it’s in service to the family in an otherwise vinyl-centric system.)
Now I will have to build AD1865 for comparison, actually have the board already stuffed, need to sort out PSU (option in hand), R-core tranny from post above, and I have a not JL USB interface… not sure what that will require to get working yet…
Will make a faceplate for the new DAC tomorrow.. I’ll post a final pic. Thanks for all the help, and of course to Miro! It was worth it….obviously.
Kokanee,
Definitely 2 x 9V secondary's can be used to power the JL Sounds board. But JLSound board require 2x5v. Check in my previous post #7,934 how to modify psu2.
Definitely 2 x 9V secondary's can be used to power the JL Sounds board. But JLSound board require 2x5v. Check in my previous post #7,934 how to modify psu2.
Fantastic pfarrell!!🥳
MiroDac’s start to multiply and before you know it they are in every nook and cranny of the house
.
MiroDac’s start to multiply and before you know it they are in every nook and cranny of the house
.
I see the jlsounds pcb I used originally is out of stock but they do offer a similar pcb that has isolated outputs. Can it be used in place of the previous pcb?
@Tesla Audio and others,
I do not have psu2, I have psu1 boards. I am wondering what regulator boards I can use to drop the voltage to the required 5v required for the analog and digital part of the JLSounds board. Any hints from folks who have done this ?
Thanks,
MM
I do not have psu2, I have psu1 boards. I am wondering what regulator boards I can use to drop the voltage to the required 5v required for the analog and digital part of the JLSounds board. Any hints from folks who have done this ?
Thanks,
MM
Both psu1 and psu2 are made for dac supply. Both on output have 5 and 12v. As psu2 is possible to modify I believe that is also possible with psu1 as well. Maybe someone else did it. I will check schematic and let you know.
Yes. Take a raster board and make two separate power supplies.
One is 5V 400mA (with a large heatsink) and one 5V 100mA with a smaller heatsink. Use separate secondaries, the 5V 400mA should be galvanically isolated from everything else, ground it to the chassis via a 100nF 100V capacitor. The other 5V 100mA should be grounded to the common GND of the other power supplies.
I used LM1117T-5.0 LDO voltage stabilizers, but any fixed or adjustable TO220 stabilizer will do. For 5V 400mA and LDO voltage stabilizers the transformer secondary must be at least 7VAC 600mA. If the stabilizers are not LDO then at least 9VAC 600mA. And use schottky diodes, 2-3A for 400mA, 1A for 100mA.
Thanks for all the help fella's. I am up to my eyeballs with diying some chassis's for a couple of amps and preamps.
Does anyone know a good quality ready to run module that I could purchase for my needs or at least a board I could populate.
Just so I am on the right track, I need to end up with 2 x +5V outputs, not bipolar output's, Correct?
MM
Does anyone know a good quality ready to run module that I could purchase for my needs or at least a board I could populate.
Just so I am on the right track, I need to end up with 2 x +5V outputs, not bipolar output's, Correct?
MM