EAR99 items are generally low technology consumer goods and can be exported without a license, but exporters of EAR99 items still need to perform careful due diligence to ensure the item is not going to an embargoed or sanctioned country, a prohibited end-user, or used in a prohibited end-use.
I think it has not to see with the export law as I inputed before. That dac chip is not under the export law !
We often see in US law is not to protect the comon sense anymore sometimes ! Btw I will not eat cat on my microwave oven nd makes a trial (the word trial has a sense here). And I don't discuss if that law makes sense or not, I just said the Rochester behavior has no sense, so don't get me wrong.
You know it is like to travel the wholle country to listen to a false prophet because you think you have not monney enough... really it makes no sense ! If at least it was to listen to the Rolling Stones or the Stooges !
When it makes no sense, there is no comon sense anymore, as simple as that ! That manicheist behavior you live there at that particular moments is very cultural imho, but this is off topic and I appologize sincerely about that input !
The thing is, I never had problem to buy AD1862 at Rochester and half the bill was taxes and shipment taxes (two ad1862 costed me back then I don't remember but maybe 10 or 8 years ago at Rocjester 120 euros ! It is good business, I was happy to pay thatt for DHL and Rocjesters workers and States employees for the taxes ! Now it just seems the management changed at Rocchester for good or wrong reasons and I do think it is bnot related to EAR99 and Californians law can be even be ruder in US state to state importing !
End of the story or polemic if any !
Cheers 🙂
Last edited:
Happy to read your words, really.
200V are just fine, in that startup phase tube is not drawing any current. Not necessary, but if you want to... 😀
don't get mad with tube and/or output caps rolling, you're entering the field of diminishing returns 😉 Again, Not necessary, but if you want to... 😀 😀 😀
Well no, but at least not a huge monney is needed. Tin foiled MKP from Mundorf or SCR (I thinkSCR makes it for Mundorf) is very neutral here. Doesn't cost a fortune.
Some automotive 4 pins MKPs from Pani are worthing a try (as neutral S/Q good ratio) but if your pcb layout was not planed for that, the classic MKP two leads tin foil is just OK !
Some automotive 4 pins MKPs from Pani are worthing a try (as neutral S/Q good ratio) but if your pcb layout was not planed for that, the classic MKP two leads tin foil is just OK !
Last edited:
Today I received 2pcs AD1865 bought on ebay from this seller:
https://www.ebay.fr/str/hifiaudioic
Both work fine
I don't want to complain about the seller but the guy has 100% positive reviews
https://www.ebay.fr/str/hifiaudioic
Both work fine
I don't want to complain about the seller but the guy has 100% positive reviews
The last time I bougth on Ebay I have a batch with one AD1862 with a breaked leg that could not be fixed . You migth have luck or not !
DJ Paddy saved my life !
DJ Paddy saved my life !
There is only one tin foil MKP model at SCR (Solen : SCR made), Mundorf (SCR made) : do choose the lowest safe voltage you need for your output purpose.
I talked about the output DC blocking caps. So the 100V is okay. (then there is 160 V , etc)
I don't know if it is clearer (appoligize my bad non googled translated french, I wisch my italian was better but it is not)).
There are some tin foil choices at THLP website.
I talked about the output DC blocking caps. So the 100V is okay. (then there is 160 V , etc)
I don't know if it is clearer (appoligize my bad non googled translated french, I wisch my italian was better but it is not)).
There are some tin foil choices at THLP website.
If your system is very dark, just take their silver serie that is cheap (and not better but can be better if your speaker are dark, treble recessed, etc ; but to use with care; if you used an hybrid Mu follower circuitry instead of a pure CCS, you coul have more choice for the DC blocking as the capacitance needed is very low (0.2 to 0.4 uF is ok with an hybrid Mu follower). Pure CCS is good too (at the price of an OT or more monney for the more uF needed as DC blocking).
ANd do 6.1V for the heater! (6.2 if paranoid about the datashheets that needs to be read more carefully anyway)
😉
ANd do 6.1V for the heater! (6.2 if paranoid about the datashheets that needs to be read more carefully anyway)
😉
There's no 10uF mundorf zn mcap.
And heaters in my systems are spot on at 6.33V, from tube radios to phono preamp!
so look at the SCR ... the same,more choice (they are makers for french industry and Mundorf for that model). And it is a low pass so don't be too much focussed on the exact 10 UF value for DC relative to the resistor.
Well you choose what you want for your heater NDHT tubes of course. I am not sure guys like SY here and some others experienced guys are wrong when talking about 6.1V as the sweet spot for NDHT heaters and life.
Well you choose what you want for your heater NDHT tubes of course. I am not sure guys like SY here and some others experienced guys are wrong when talking about 6.1V as the sweet spot for NDHT heaters and life.
I don't think caps will fail but it will likely shorten their lifespan. I think these ones will fit nicely https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UCY2V221MHD
And I took from him for myself and others. Used, desoldered and tested ASD1865N, he also had N-K before, now it's gone. I am targeting these older years with yellow laser engraved letters, 91/92 year. Everything is still working fine. I don't know if I'm hallucinating, but the old ones sound a little better than these newer ones with (large or small) white letters.
I want to 🙂
I replaced the 10uF (C1/C3) with 1uF Electrocube 950 - an inexpensive alternative that I liked years ago in my tube amp. One of my test records is The Rainbow from Spirit of Eden by Talk Talk. In the beginning of the composition there are quiet, gentle sounds. For the 1st time since I sold my Sony scd-777es, I can hear creatures (here you go - make fun LOL 🙂 ) and their location instead of noise. I also like the tonality of acoustic instruments and voices. However, I think I hear some loss in the low range. The impedance of my pre-amp is 40k. What do you think is the lowest reasonable value of the C1/C3? I assume that I can increase RLOAD?
Attachments
Last edited:
@Seavan I think depending on the lowest frequency your speakers can produce, you calculate the LPF 'knee' cut off point - small speakers need low uF, massive towers need higher.
Google LPF knee calculation for speakers
First thing I found but you get the idea 😉
https://pieterkdevilliers.github.io/audio-filters/low-pass.html
Google LPF knee calculation for speakers
First thing I found but you get the idea 😉
https://pieterkdevilliers.github.io/audio-filters/low-pass.html
Thank you @passive420 , so 1uf/10k -> 16Hz at -3dB. I think switching from 10uF to 1uF can make an audible difference at the lowest region - like contrabass where I think I can hear a difference. My speakers frequency response 45Hz-18kHz (probably +/-5db) but I think that our ears easily adapt to frequency response and we can hear much lower than the spec. I will try doubling 1uF and see if it makes a difference or it's the cap quality. I need to try other more expensive caps after I play with a better tube and IV resistor. Fun!
Hmmm... I havent read your previous posts so I don't know what all this is intented for, so what follows may be more confusing then helpfull but well...
It is not just "-3dB at 16Hz"...
If you look at what is happening you are cutting the lower frequencies but also rotating the phase etc., many things on the net explaining all that. So quite an impact and that not just at "below 16dB".
Your high pass filter isn't perfect and it will still have a "say reasonable" impact at several times Fc (in theory it is infinite). Depending on your exigence, it is common practice to chose Fc from 5 times to 10 times below what the system can deliver. Very broadly and roughly, 5 times you usualy don't have to worry really about its inclusion, 10 times you can ignore it. Your are at "3 times" (Fc filter 16Hz vs LS Fc 45Hz, albeit at -5dB) , for me that would be a tad low not to have an impact on 45Hz... not a great thing especialy if your response is already weak there.
If I would have 50Hz capable speakers, which isn't that low and where still quite a few instruments can play, I wouldn't want elsewhere in the system to have a Fc below 10 or 5 Hz. Me, I would chose 5Hz as common practice addressing many needs plus let's not forget that the high pass filters add up (in a more complex way depending on the filters, Fcs etc). In a simple case, if your speakers have a response such as -3dB@50Hz, and you put a filter with -3dB@50Hz in front you will end up with a response of -6dB@50Hz... quite a drop.
In your case, you are likely to have another dB drop at 45Hz but generaly speaking you are helping your speakers dropping further response a bit below 100hz... Depending on how you use your speakers that may be OK or NOK, you to decide.
As your speakers already don't have a high Fc, I would depending on size and availability at least aim at Fc around 10Hz, but then that's me (i chose below 5Hz for most audio applications)
I hope this helps
Claude
It is not just "-3dB at 16Hz"...
If you look at what is happening you are cutting the lower frequencies but also rotating the phase etc., many things on the net explaining all that. So quite an impact and that not just at "below 16dB".
Your high pass filter isn't perfect and it will still have a "say reasonable" impact at several times Fc (in theory it is infinite). Depending on your exigence, it is common practice to chose Fc from 5 times to 10 times below what the system can deliver. Very broadly and roughly, 5 times you usualy don't have to worry really about its inclusion, 10 times you can ignore it. Your are at "3 times" (Fc filter 16Hz vs LS Fc 45Hz, albeit at -5dB) , for me that would be a tad low not to have an impact on 45Hz... not a great thing especialy if your response is already weak there.
If I would have 50Hz capable speakers, which isn't that low and where still quite a few instruments can play, I wouldn't want elsewhere in the system to have a Fc below 10 or 5 Hz. Me, I would chose 5Hz as common practice addressing many needs plus let's not forget that the high pass filters add up (in a more complex way depending on the filters, Fcs etc). In a simple case, if your speakers have a response such as -3dB@50Hz, and you put a filter with -3dB@50Hz in front you will end up with a response of -6dB@50Hz... quite a drop.
In your case, you are likely to have another dB drop at 45Hz but generaly speaking you are helping your speakers dropping further response a bit below 100hz... Depending on how you use your speakers that may be OK or NOK, you to decide.
As your speakers already don't have a high Fc, I would depending on size and availability at least aim at Fc around 10Hz, but then that's me (i chose below 5Hz for most audio applications)
I hope this helps
Claude