DAC AD1862: Almost THT, I2S input, NOS, R-2R

[cibo]

Another 811 build complete!

For anyone nervous about smd soldering I highly recommend the solder paste and hot plate route over hand soldering.

Ive found that the 1862 and 1541 sound better with different opamps/iv’s to me, and the The 627 & 1541 combo has been the reigning champ, but this might replace it. Now I’m curious about sticking superregs more places lol.

Thanks Vunce and grunf !

 

[Vunce]

Nice work Cibo!
The AD811 is pricey for an opamp, but the results are worth it .

 

[Hierfi]

You could go Chinese for the AD811 and ask yourself "Do you feel lucky?" The ones I purchased seem okay, drawing just under 20mA quiescent. A rare thing for most operational amplifiers and behaves similar to the AD844 in my application. Has anyone compared the two in the same application?

 

[zoom777]

@cibo, congrats! You work at amazing speed😆

 

[cibo]

Haha Ty. My self control disappears as soon as I see the box from mouser.

 

[BRN]

I really need to get my AD811 power supply working right. I did cheat and used one of my other boards with VDRN power supply.

With all these boards being successfully I need to get it fixed!

 

[zoom777]

@BRN check the resistor placements on that faulty rail. I feel that it is the most easy to have mistakes.

 

[cibo]

Here's a mouser bom for Vunce's 811 that can be uploaded using the BOM tool.

It's built from Vunce's original bom in the numbers file from post #7,343, and so it works with 1862.

Of note:
There are two options for psu input capacitors in the bom (nichicon (C419, C420, C423, C42...) and panasonic (C421, C422, C425, C42...))
It includes no heat sinking for the psu (it needs a lot)
It seems the 100uf UKZ's are all gone . If someone has a suggestion for what to replace them with I can update the bom (and am also curious).

 

[grunf]

UFG , but they are also EOL so I will have to urgently find a good replacement. Panasonic FC or Rybcon ZLJ/35V are also good.

 

[cibo]

After looking, there are still 60v+ versions of UKZ with correct diameter and lead spacing... Is it bad to over-spec voltage of capacitors?

 

[miro1360]

@cibo It is not bad, you can use it

 

[Sorenm]

Two quick questions:

• I am planning to use Sparkos opamps. Those of you that have tried these, or other discrete opamps, did you have C31/36 populated?
• If feeding into a shunt attenuator (for volume control), would it be reasonable to leave off R10/11?

Cheers,
Soren

 

[NIXIE62]

I prefer Burson V6 (Classic) from Sparkos, tried with PCM63 and PCM1702. For AD1865, SS3601 is better for me because it compensates for the slightly darker sound of the AD1865. C31 and C36 must be inserted, 33-47pF. R10/11 can be replaced with jumpers. I would still put something minimal, say 10 ohms.

 

[zoom777]

I skipped C31 C36 when i use the on-board IV. Be it op amp IC or discrete op amp.

 

[Sorenm]

Thanks Guys! I guess I can try with and without

Nixie - what do you use for caps in this position?

 

[NIXIE62]

1206 SMD ceramic. It can oscillate without them, check with an oscilloscope.

 

[Brijac]

And let it be C0G 😊

 

[zoom777]

Thanks Guys! I guess I can try with and without

Nixie - what do you use for caps in this position?

Yes try with and without. Miro and a few others have skipped them.

 

[ZoltanChivay]

Another one ist alive!
Fed by RPi and Allo Kali. PSU2. Parts are pretty basic.
Unfortunately I forgot to order 2R2 for the PSU, so I had to parallel 5*12Ohms...
View attachment 1233731
Thanks Miro!

HI



Nice job!

What type of Kali do you use? 22/24MHz or 44/48MHz?


Zoltan

 

[elfischiso]

Hi!

Thanks!

Actually I am not sure which version this is. I bought it several years ago together with a PianoDac.

If the LEDs are a indicator for the version, it should be the 22/24MHz-version, because the highest value is 192k, but I am not sure about it.

Nevertheless, it works like a charm!