DAC AD1862: Almost THT, I2S input, NOS, R-2R

Wow, larger jitter than MCLK, OK that is a case I never thought of! Does this really happen...?
If the source LCRK is jittered large enough (let say >45ns for 22MHz clock), than taking this LRCK as reference will cause the same jitter on the output. Idk if such jitter in LRCK happens after shifting it, but the propagation delay can be high.
The main purpose of any reclock is to eliminate the jitter. If the LRCK source has very low jitter, it is best to clocking (LRCK) DAC directly. ... there are also jitter cleaners like 972-841S104EGILF ... maybe it works 🤣
 
841S104EGILF is a chip meant for I2C (2 channel) and not I2S.
It uses a 25MHz crytsal / external XO and a PLL to reclock.
The phase noise is -70dB at 10Hz, and -130dB at 10kHz.

This compares to an NZ2520SD of -113dB at 10Hz and -155dB at 10kHz.

Unless the source has no low-jitter MCLK available, I would never want to reclock with a PLL recovered BCLK.


Patrick
 
tried ad1865 pcb, really good, is another outstanding diy pcb, must try everybody.
IMG-20220604-WA0002.jpeg
 
Ah, a very motivating post. 😎

My AD1865 chips have had to stay in the drawer for a long time as well. Glad, they will spread their lovely sound.
I think, I will use my AD1862 for my open baffles and the AD1865 for the base. And from time to time one of them will be swapped vs. a TDA1541. Very nice.
 
FT caps manufacterer. Of course trade off, no perfect caps. I even tried BG Std with the 1656 and the sax on Getz Gilberto Gill was lacking of meat and treble texture with his wood anchors... while it has this littler plus the BG std serie had, (BG NX 47 uF was nothing special here)... so ! By the way old blue NLA Nichicon SE I save from old CD players when I can really shine here 10 to 47 uF.... no modern Nichicon counterparts halas ! This SE was even better than the Vx serie which was supposed more high end. the Frolyt has a sexy low mid on woods but not the precision of a Pani FC. First is "audiophile, second is more "hifi", choose your poison ! And tons of others caps exists... I am in a caps period these times, so I play !

Try to play with FC between 10 uF to 100 uF with voltage between 100V and less according what sounds best with your speaker. The challenge if too much damping is you have not the decay of acoustic instruments if too tigth decoupling. 100/63 is not bad in my hifi wuith the ad1862 though it lacks a littler warm and meat in the low mid... but decoupling with // is very challenging : the ESR becomes often too low then you have snap in the upper bass but poor decay on acoustic instruments I experienced. As always each hifi is different and one has to do his own tests.
 
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Ah, always something desirable special. What are Frolyt EKR?
Very good capacitors, often in industrial electronics, in the picture is an old Honeywell SMPS with EKR and ERF series which has over 170,000 operating hours behind. So far I have not found any faulty or that it caused a malfunction of a module. For the Japanese, I can't say that.
I’ve never used them in the audio so I can’t comment on that.
 

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