Hi all, i'm new to the site so please bear with me!
I have recently changed a laser assembly twice(!) in a cyrus cd8x and still have a problem. The cd player now plays the discs, but is prone to skipping or 'getting stuck'. I'm going to db check the mech etc but I am quite sure that it is okay. Am I suppose to tune the transport slightly for the player (laser intensity etc), is there a known issue between the disc platter of the new transport and the old clamp, am I suppose to follow through witrh my threat and cut the dam thing down into tiny pieces and feed it to the player devil?
Please help!😱
I have recently changed a laser assembly twice(!) in a cyrus cd8x and still have a problem. The cd player now plays the discs, but is prone to skipping or 'getting stuck'. I'm going to db check the mech etc but I am quite sure that it is okay. Am I suppose to tune the transport slightly for the player (laser intensity etc), is there a known issue between the disc platter of the new transport and the old clamp, am I suppose to follow through witrh my threat and cut the dam thing down into tiny pieces and feed it to the player devil?
Please help!😱
Don't touch the laser power unless you have a power meter. You will shorten its life! Focus offset will make the laser jitter and skip. Adjust it until the coils just squeal and then back it off. Then test its performance with the Standard Philips Test Disc.
I have had a similar experience with Cyrus CD6 and 8. I got nowhere, Cyrus refused any technical help.
There are two AOT resistors on the servo board but I could not get any info on that board. Wasted much time driving blind.
The board and transport appear to have been designed by Daisy Laser and perhaps manufactured in HK.
This board on the CD6 and 8 is very poorly mechanically mounted and on mine it was possible to move it such that one of the board wired links could touch the mounting bracket. The whole CD design did not impress and I now give any old Cyrus products a wide berth.
The See the thread on the following page.
Servo PCB for L1210/65 (CDM12.1/VAM1202) from Daisy -where in use by Marantz (Schema)
There are two AOT resistors on the servo board but I could not get any info on that board. Wasted much time driving blind.
The board and transport appear to have been designed by Daisy Laser and perhaps manufactured in HK.
This board on the CD6 and 8 is very poorly mechanically mounted and on mine it was possible to move it such that one of the board wired links could touch the mounting bracket. The whole CD design did not impress and I now give any old Cyrus products a wide berth.
The See the thread on the following page.
Servo PCB for L1210/65 (CDM12.1/VAM1202) from Daisy -where in use by Marantz (Schema)
Thanks all so far. I'm feeling it also, the sound good but cut some serious corners in regards to mechs, it appears that it was just left Phillips who had sold off the cdm/vam designs. Using a dad3 as a guidance it would appear that it us defo control circuitry rather then absolute mechanics that is causing the problem. The grease thickens, stresses the whole system out, and then cause a breakdown. I mention the Dad3 because it uses a cdm12.4 which is nearly the same but has a joint share of the control across both mech and board. It appears that quite a few (dad3) have a failure with a cap supporting a clocking chip, and therefore the mech doesn't even start - naturally a change of mech makes no difference here! Back to the CD8x, the case has changed and thus tollerances are not so hot, but I have completly strip the mech down, cleaned and regressed with liquid lithium lube and it has been flying since. It did reject the other mechs ?!? I have found a cdm 12.1/15 that's on it's way so hopefully this will be the owners of this name getting it's act together. In regards to talking to Cyrus.......I too had no joy.
Ps, I would never 'turn up' the laser power on the mech.....lol I cant believe people are still giving that advice!
Ps, I would never 'turn up' the laser power on the mech.....lol I cant believe people are still giving that advice!
Hello All
I have this model CD8X after some repair and I don not sure which Optical drive was used in original .
Can you tell me if it was CDM12.1 or VAM1201?
Or what type of drive is better in this model ?
I have this model CD8X after some repair and I don not sure which Optical drive was used in original .
Can you tell me if it was CDM12.1 or VAM1201?
Or what type of drive is better in this model ?
Hi Everybody,
I'm trying to clean or change my CD8x laser head but can't get a it. Opened the unit, but can't work out how to get mechanism out. Could you please help me?
I'm trying to clean or change my CD8x laser head but can't get a it. Opened the unit, but can't work out how to get mechanism out. Could you please help me?
Hello all...
I appreciate this is a few years late to this subject! However, having had the No Disc problem with my CD8x (hopeless and expensive brick) I got round to replacing the drive and laser unit. Straightforward and no issues...but still No Disc. Starting to strip it down again I realised that it works perfectly every time if I remove the bottom plate. Only has to be 1-2 cms. Put it on...no disc. Take it off...its fine. Every time. OK, I hear you say, has to be pressing on something. Well...what...and I sure can't find it. It isn't anything to see, it isn't the ribbon...which I can tape up without problem, it isn't the small laser connection board, there isn't any pressure on the main circuit board. It's plastic and non ferrous, so isn't shorting. No obvious dry solders etc. Unbelievable. I'm sure this has been the problem all along, and when I get an answer I'll post it. If somebody comes back to their cd8 and probably cd6 after all these years, worth trying first.
I appreciate this is a few years late to this subject! However, having had the No Disc problem with my CD8x (hopeless and expensive brick) I got round to replacing the drive and laser unit. Straightforward and no issues...but still No Disc. Starting to strip it down again I realised that it works perfectly every time if I remove the bottom plate. Only has to be 1-2 cms. Put it on...no disc. Take it off...its fine. Every time. OK, I hear you say, has to be pressing on something. Well...what...and I sure can't find it. It isn't anything to see, it isn't the ribbon...which I can tape up without problem, it isn't the small laser connection board, there isn't any pressure on the main circuit board. It's plastic and non ferrous, so isn't shorting. No obvious dry solders etc. Unbelievable. I'm sure this has been the problem all along, and when I get an answer I'll post it. If somebody comes back to their cd8 and probably cd6 after all these years, worth trying first.
I successfully repaired my CD8. The problem with it is that CYRUS has modified the CD drive. They extend the very sensitive optical cable! In addition, the bottom cover of the CD8 is a plastic part. I wrapped the flat cable with copper foil and grounded it. The problem has been solved!
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Brilliant Cac Liu. The answer has to be in that cable somehow. I’ll try that 👍. What have you grounded it to?
I have just switched the laser unit of my CD8 for a 'new' one. The player now reads CDs and appears to play them. However, the sound is muffled or cuts out (with an external DAC).
Can Liu: can you please explain why you had to ground the optical cable? I assume it isn't grounded originally?
Also: I couldn't find any grounding solder to remove on the laser unit. Am I wrong about that please?
Can Liu: can you please explain why you had to ground the optical cable? I assume it isn't grounded originally?
Also: I couldn't find any grounding solder to remove on the laser unit. Am I wrong about that please?
I realise this post is over 10 years old but would you be able to supply more information about the capacity - would you know the label on the circuit board or the device it is near to to help identity it?
Hello
I have the same problem, that is, it works without the bottom plate. So I decided to work a little on this.
I realized that if you just put the CD player on the base plate without screwing it down, it stopped working, so I suspected that maybe it was the copper color that the base plate is painted with that is the problem (electric fields/reflections). I tried with an aluminum plate on which I put a thin newspaper and placed the CD player on the newspaper.
It stopped working.
Decided to sand off the copper paint on the bottom plate and try, after removing about 90-95% I tried.
It worked 🙂
Furthermore, I tried to cover the cable with copper tape according to "cac liu" picture. It stopped working then, removed the tape again and then it worked again. The whole thing is very strange.
I have now repainted the back with gray spray to make the whole thing look nice.
I have also received good treatment and support from Pete at Cyrus and got some tips from there, but I came up with this about removing the copper paint myself.
I have the same problem, that is, it works without the bottom plate. So I decided to work a little on this.
I realized that if you just put the CD player on the base plate without screwing it down, it stopped working, so I suspected that maybe it was the copper color that the base plate is painted with that is the problem (electric fields/reflections). I tried with an aluminum plate on which I put a thin newspaper and placed the CD player on the newspaper.
It stopped working.
Decided to sand off the copper paint on the bottom plate and try, after removing about 90-95% I tried.
It worked 🙂
Furthermore, I tried to cover the cable with copper tape according to "cac liu" picture. It stopped working then, removed the tape again and then it worked again. The whole thing is very strange.
I have now repainted the back with gray spray to make the whole thing look nice.
I have also received good treatment and support from Pete at Cyrus and got some tips from there, but I came up with this about removing the copper paint myself.
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![P1090063[1].JPG](/community/data/attachments/1288/1288552-b525a1f27439aba63c0567f419bd9a8d.jpg?hash=meEnP7ME7Y)
![P1090066[1].JPG](/community/data/attachments/1288/1288554-ce168711c0632664dbc53a3e1552eb15.jpg?hash=Et806mSno5)
I don't recall seeing this thread before... interesting one and that sounds a great bit of detective work you have done.
Flexiprints (foils) are very prone to stray pickup and also I would think to creating stray capacitance if a long run of foil runs along a metal surface.
Flexiprints (foils) are very prone to stray pickup and also I would think to creating stray capacitance if a long run of foil runs along a metal surface.
Thank you.
I have work as a modem designer in 1980-90 something so protect small signal level is important when do this kind of work. So this is a explanation why I try this test/work
I have work as a modem designer in 1980-90 something so protect small signal level is important when do this kind of work. So this is a explanation why I try this test/work
I'm currently working on a Cyrus CD8 and CD8x, changing the capacitors. After reading some of the previous posts I wonder if some of the issues with these units is the lack of an earth from the mains? 🤔
Change caps is always good.
But try to do this, place the player without the bottom plate, and test. After this try just to place it on unscrewd, just placed it on it.
/Peter
But try to do this, place the player without the bottom plate, and test. After this try just to place it on unscrewd, just placed it on it.
/Peter
Welcome.
If this solve it just sand it. Notice it can be problem if you place it on other electronic device so let it stand alone.
If this solve it just sand it. Notice it can be problem if you place it on other electronic device so let it stand alone.
I've recapped the CD8 and CD8x, the CD8 plays fine, but the drawer must be misaligned so needs some help to open and close. The CD8x plays and seems to function as normal, but there's no sound from it, apart from a slight hum. I removed two LM317T voltage regulators from the CD8x so i could gain better access to a couple of caps, they were a bugger to remove and I ended up damaging a couple of traces... All repaired, but i'm thinking that this has caused the issue with no sound?