Hi Chris !
Thanks again for your comment here !
OK, my Cyrus II, now 20-years old, sounded dull and was definetely missing that bass response it had in the past. That was the reason to change the caps, especially the 2 "big " ones against Slit foils. The sound has definitely improved substantially in general, especially noticeable in the lower frequency domain. Bass is tight, more detailed, as are the mids and treble frequencies. For example a triangle gets a real shine of resonating metal ("You look good to me" @ We get requests, Oscar Peterson Trio)
After having attached my recently acquired PSX (probably nearly 20-years old as well), the sound was getting thin, without any solid bass response. It was just lacking everything compared to the recapped Cyrus alone. Since I don´t believe that this change of acoustic performance is wanted whenever a PSX is added to a Cyrus II, I would think it is necessary to exchange the caps in the PSX as well...
Best regards
Rad
Thanks again for your comment here !
OK, my Cyrus II, now 20-years old, sounded dull and was definetely missing that bass response it had in the past. That was the reason to change the caps, especially the 2 "big " ones against Slit foils. The sound has definitely improved substantially in general, especially noticeable in the lower frequency domain. Bass is tight, more detailed, as are the mids and treble frequencies. For example a triangle gets a real shine of resonating metal ("You look good to me" @ We get requests, Oscar Peterson Trio)
After having attached my recently acquired PSX (probably nearly 20-years old as well), the sound was getting thin, without any solid bass response. It was just lacking everything compared to the recapped Cyrus alone. Since I don´t believe that this change of acoustic performance is wanted whenever a PSX is added to a Cyrus II, I would think it is necessary to exchange the caps in the PSX as well...
Best regards
Rad
Hi Paul,
Good. I wasn't sure about them. Remembering every single brand and model is next to impossible and generally not too helpful either.
Before the HP 4263A, I used an HP 4261A. Excellent meter as well. These are more geared to testing the value and quality of a capacitor. The Sencore appears to have been focused more on functional testing. Nothing wrong with that and I can see where it would be useful.
-Chris
Good. I wasn't sure about them. Remembering every single brand and model is next to impossible and generally not too helpful either.
Excellent choice in a hand held. Better than most if not all cheaper bench types.
I'm not really sure how to do this without instruments made to measure caps. Some bridge instruments do a good job, certainly easier that what you might be doing. I would look up the procedure if I were to try this on my own, sounds like you have.
Before the HP 4263A, I used an HP 4261A. Excellent meter as well. These are more geared to testing the value and quality of a capacitor. The Sencore appears to have been focused more on functional testing. Nothing wrong with that and I can see where it would be useful.
That's interesting. I gather then that you also saw much increased reliability with these. They aren't perfect, but on average a better bet.
-Chris
Hi Rad,
I have not seen many Cyrus PSX or PSX-R that needed new capacitors to be honest with you. Same with their amplifiers. Now, the smaller capacitors in the amp circuit are another story. I'm betting that those NP caps are toast in reality.
I instrument check as well as listen to these repairs, as they do at the Cyrus factory. Don't you find it interesting that two repair entities have arrived at the same conclusion regarding filter capacitors (and service in general) independently?
Without guidance from other sources, human hearing is an abysmal testing instrument. You can be right - or wrong. But the outcome depends more on your beliefs than what is actually going on. When instruments and multiple human experience agree, you are on the right track. The evidence is overwhelming when you compare people who "design by ear" with those who also measure the performance.
-Chris
I have not seen many Cyrus PSX or PSX-R that needed new capacitors to be honest with you. Same with their amplifiers. Now, the smaller capacitors in the amp circuit are another story. I'm betting that those NP caps are toast in reality.
I instrument check as well as listen to these repairs, as they do at the Cyrus factory. Don't you find it interesting that two repair entities have arrived at the same conclusion regarding filter capacitors (and service in general) independently?
Without guidance from other sources, human hearing is an abysmal testing instrument. You can be right - or wrong. But the outcome depends more on your beliefs than what is actually going on. When instruments and multiple human experience agree, you are on the right track. The evidence is overwhelming when you compare people who "design by ear" with those who also measure the performance.
-Chris
Hi my names John, this is my first post 🙂
I have a Cyrus 2 and PSX, version 6 metal case push buttons, which I purchased off Ebay.
The condition is fantastic, but there was a hum from one channel, so I done some reading on here, and took the case off, I found that one of the Capacitors was leaking.
After reading replies, I could see that I needed to replace 2x ekm 470uf x 50v. I think they are position c67
c68
Geoff, replied that they could be replaced with 470uf x100, I duly purchased from Maplins and replaced them.
This totally cured the hum, so I'm real happy about that, thanks.
I also lack Bass, the amp is LOUD and extremely clear almost holographic, but bass is poor, I use a pair of old bi-wired 1990's mission cyrus 782 (they look nothing like modern 782 http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/7956/mission782oa6.jpg).
There are 2 capacitors under the ribbon cable I believe they are called feedback caps 470uf x 6.3v.
From more reading Sonusthree has replaced these with black gate N's from hificollective.co.uk, is this part number CAP-9323?
Would these help with the bass, and would this be my next move.
Anyone got a list of what Caps to replace with the available equivalents, the big caps look fine.
I also have a LED fault, on the power amp, when powered with mains to both the PSX and AMP, the LED will light if the power buttons are depressed, but if i try to power the amp with only the mains lead to the PSX and press both power buttons the LED on the PSX amp comes on but the LED doesn't on the power amp.
I thought that the PSX takes over the power supply duties of the power amp and would also feed a supply to the power amp LED.
Would this be a diode fault on the power amp that's gone faulty thus stopping the flow from the PSX rails to the LED.
(Yes, both fuses are out of the power amp)
Sorry I'm far from an expert on electronics, I can solder and tell the difference between most components, and have access to a fluke digital voltmeter.
I've seen the schematics and in theory can follow them, but I'm going to ask what some will seem an obvious question to you experts.
I see posts saying change out cap 41 and 42 yet when I look at the Cyrus 2 schematics i can only find C42. Where's C41 on the diagram, this goes for other Caps as well.
Is the schematics only showing one half of the circuit IE the left channel, thus the other half is identical but the corresponding C# number is in the same place.
Cheers John.
I have a Cyrus 2 and PSX, version 6 metal case push buttons, which I purchased off Ebay.
The condition is fantastic, but there was a hum from one channel, so I done some reading on here, and took the case off, I found that one of the Capacitors was leaking.
After reading replies, I could see that I needed to replace 2x ekm 470uf x 50v. I think they are position c67
c68
Geoff, replied that they could be replaced with 470uf x100, I duly purchased from Maplins and replaced them.
This totally cured the hum, so I'm real happy about that, thanks.
I also lack Bass, the amp is LOUD and extremely clear almost holographic, but bass is poor, I use a pair of old bi-wired 1990's mission cyrus 782 (they look nothing like modern 782 http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/7956/mission782oa6.jpg).
There are 2 capacitors under the ribbon cable I believe they are called feedback caps 470uf x 6.3v.
From more reading Sonusthree has replaced these with black gate N's from hificollective.co.uk, is this part number CAP-9323?
Would these help with the bass, and would this be my next move.
Anyone got a list of what Caps to replace with the available equivalents, the big caps look fine.
I also have a LED fault, on the power amp, when powered with mains to both the PSX and AMP, the LED will light if the power buttons are depressed, but if i try to power the amp with only the mains lead to the PSX and press both power buttons the LED on the PSX amp comes on but the LED doesn't on the power amp.
I thought that the PSX takes over the power supply duties of the power amp and would also feed a supply to the power amp LED.
Would this be a diode fault on the power amp that's gone faulty thus stopping the flow from the PSX rails to the LED.
(Yes, both fuses are out of the power amp)
Sorry I'm far from an expert on electronics, I can solder and tell the difference between most components, and have access to a fluke digital voltmeter.
I've seen the schematics and in theory can follow them, but I'm going to ask what some will seem an obvious question to you experts.
I see posts saying change out cap 41 and 42 yet when I look at the Cyrus 2 schematics i can only find C42. Where's C41 on the diagram, this goes for other Caps as well.
Is the schematics only showing one half of the circuit IE the left channel, thus the other half is identical but the corresponding C# number is in the same place.
Cheers John.
Hi John,
Both the PSX and Cyrus II need to be plugged in. The internal power supply for the Cyrus II will then power the phono circuitry and power LED. The PSX will power the amplifier.
Normal, good quality capacitors are fine. There is no need to get exotic here.
All kinds of people will put in some expensive parts and wax poetic on the new virtues bestowed on this humble amplifier. It's a nice amp, and I like them. But if you really want to improve the sound quality, try matching the diff pair and other basic things. All these "cap upgrades" fall short compared to real circuit improvements. Of course, that is a job for a technician who really does know what they are doing. These other "part swap upgrades" are great work for people who don't understand what they are doing. It's a "money kit" for the technically challenged.
Your filter caps are most probably just fine. Of course, a technician would have to pass final judgment on that too. The performance can be seen by using an oscilloscope. But then, you are using the supply in the PSX instead anyway.
-Chris
Both the PSX and Cyrus II need to be plugged in. The internal power supply for the Cyrus II will then power the phono circuitry and power LED. The PSX will power the amplifier.
Replace the other small caps also (22 uF) and apply thermal compound on the regulator heat sinks. Replacing these is not a bad idea since they run very hot.
Normal, good quality capacitors are fine. There is no need to get exotic here.
Yes, this will fix your bass problem. They are bipolar types capacitors.
All kinds of people will put in some expensive parts and wax poetic on the new virtues bestowed on this humble amplifier. It's a nice amp, and I like them. But if you really want to improve the sound quality, try matching the diff pair and other basic things. All these "cap upgrades" fall short compared to real circuit improvements. Of course, that is a job for a technician who really does know what they are doing. These other "part swap upgrades" are great work for people who don't understand what they are doing. It's a "money kit" for the technically challenged.
Your filter caps are most probably just fine. Of course, a technician would have to pass final judgment on that too. The performance can be seen by using an oscilloscope. But then, you are using the supply in the PSX instead anyway.
-Chris
Thanks Chris for the quick reply 🙂
On the LED front, so it is working correctly then! cheers, seems a shame to have to power up the Amp to power the phono stage when not in use just to get the LED to light up.
Feedback caps; I will order the 420 x 6.3v black gate N's today.
The 22uf caps you mention, are they 22uf x 50v polar?, you say any decent cap would do, would these meet my requirements? http://www.cricklewoodelectronics.com/Cricklewood/product.php?productid=2074&cat=0&page=1
Would be handy for me as they are only a mile or so from me.
As you alluded to, listening is very subjective, I go on the principle that the older you get the less frequencies your ears can hear.
In essence there is a hell of a lot of "Nocebo" effect going on.
Saying that Audiophiles strive for what they hope is Nirvana to their ears and long my it continue.
John
On the LED front, so it is working correctly then! cheers, seems a shame to have to power up the Amp to power the phono stage when not in use just to get the LED to light up.
Feedback caps; I will order the 420 x 6.3v black gate N's today.
The 22uf caps you mention, are they 22uf x 50v polar?, you say any decent cap would do, would these meet my requirements? http://www.cricklewoodelectronics.com/Cricklewood/product.php?productid=2074&cat=0&page=1
Would be handy for me as they are only a mile or so from me.
As you alluded to, listening is very subjective, I go on the principle that the older you get the less frequencies your ears can hear.
In essence there is a hell of a lot of "Nocebo" effect going on.
Saying that Audiophiles strive for what they hope is Nirvana to their ears and long my it continue.
John
Hi John,
Yes, your Cyrus II is working properly.
You could simply try your Cyrus II without the PSX. If you don't hear a difference, then why use it? It does increase the power output, but you may not require more power.
Hearing is subjective, but generally not in the absence of measured data. Most things can be measured, and I will accept that we do not know how to measure everything yet. We can correlate most of what we measure to what people hear. The best judges of sound quality remain young children and women. They have no mental expectations to confirm. Also, if you can hear at all you can determine what does sound good and what may not. Often you may not hear an improvement with "x" component because the supposed improvement does not exist, or it may be swamped out by other problems in the system.
-Chris
Yes, your Cyrus II is working properly.
You could simply try your Cyrus II without the PSX. If you don't hear a difference, then why use it? It does increase the power output, but you may not require more power.
The better capacitors are rated at higher voltages. I use 25 VNP or 35 VNP capacitors. They start getting too large past this. Any decent quality capacitor will do.
Hearing is subjective, but generally not in the absence of measured data. Most things can be measured, and I will accept that we do not know how to measure everything yet. We can correlate most of what we measure to what people hear. The best judges of sound quality remain young children and women. They have no mental expectations to confirm. Also, if you can hear at all you can determine what does sound good and what may not. Often you may not hear an improvement with "x" component because the supposed improvement does not exist, or it may be swamped out by other problems in the system.
-Chris
anatech said:
Thanks Chis,
Glad to know the amp is functioning correctly, I refitted the fuses and tried the amp on its own, but the bass is still none existent.
I think I understand what you are saying about the the feedback caps.
For originality and design they were fitted with 470uf x 6.3v.
Meaning to me a layman, that the capacitors could store 470uf up to a voltage of 6.3v, if more than 6.3v is supplied the cap has to start discharging, or the cap starts to degrade or fail quicker.
I guess the Cyrus feedback caps requires no more than 6.3v for that part of the circuit.
But, If I can fit 470uf x25/35v np caps and it will fit in place it can store more energy before having to release all its charge, giving me a bigger tank of energy and less chance of the caps been damaged if more than 6.3v flows through.
Was I correct about the 2x 22uf X 50v Polar , via the weblink I left?
If I get my Bass back to my ears, my mission is done 🙂
I know they make and fit sonic speaker devices that are fitted in certain trouble spots around the UK, specifically to stop teenagers hanging around and been a nuisance.
Adults over a certain age 22 I think ; cannot hear this noise as our hearing starts to change/deteriorate after this.
Adults though, who are into Hifi are keenly attuned to their music, can hear subtle nuances and thus the never ending search for perfection to their ears goes on.
John
Hi John,
You haven't replaced the 470 uF "feedback" capacitors yet. I meant you to try this after the repair.
-Chris
Expected.
You haven't replaced the 470 uF "feedback" capacitors yet. I meant you to try this after the repair.
Those capacitors are actually not supposed to have any voltage across them in a perfect world, AC or DC. My recommendation was aimed at getting a better dielectric type capacitor in there. Higher voltage capacitors have lower loss dielectrics in most cases. They used a 6.3 volt cap to reduce the size of the part. These days you can use a better part about the same size.
Yes.
-Chris
Hi Chris, everyone,
I'm now seriously thinking of re-instating the original caps back into the PSX. I've recently acquired a second-hand 'scope. Could I simply hook scope up to each rail via the umbilical plug of the PSX? Does the supply have to be under load to see what condition the caps are in? Or is there a better way? I'm a bit of an oscilloscope novice.
I'm now seriously thinking of re-instating the original caps back into the PSX. I've recently acquired a second-hand 'scope. Could I simply hook scope up to each rail via the umbilical plug of the PSX? Does the supply have to be under load to see what condition the caps are in? Or is there a better way? I'm a bit of an oscilloscope novice.
In my opinion if you have swapped the big caps already then leave them be. It won't hurt and you risk lifting pads or damaging parts by messing about.
Just check with a scope before you change parts next time 🙂
Just check with a scope before you change parts next time 🙂
Hi Martin,
Capacitors have to be under some kind of load to see how they are charging and discharging. I don't worry about any exact percentage of load or anything like that. Often, just normal bias current will show up a bad capacitor easily. A higher load current will obviously be a more sensitive test, but I don't think it's that critical.
Another useful test is to run the amplifier to about 8 watts output into an 8 ohm dummy load. Look to see how much ripple you get and how much audio you see on that waveform. Experience is your best guide. Try this on known good capacitors and bad ones. You will get a feel for this.
You should be measuring across the terminals of the capacitor under test. Turn your 'scope sensitivity to it's least sensitive position using a X10 probe (always use X10 probes!). Set to AC coupling, you do not want to read how much DC voltage you have for these tests. Then after it's running, make your "Y" channel more sensitive until you get something you can read. Make sure you return the sensitivity to it's least sensitive position before moving the probe, discharge on the ground (chassis normally works well for this).
New digital 'scopes and USB 'scopes may not be able to perform these tests. I blew one channel out of mine following this procedure. It seems the coupling cap was not rated very highly and "snap" - dead channel.
-Chris
Capacitors have to be under some kind of load to see how they are charging and discharging. I don't worry about any exact percentage of load or anything like that. Often, just normal bias current will show up a bad capacitor easily. A higher load current will obviously be a more sensitive test, but I don't think it's that critical.
Another useful test is to run the amplifier to about 8 watts output into an 8 ohm dummy load. Look to see how much ripple you get and how much audio you see on that waveform. Experience is your best guide. Try this on known good capacitors and bad ones. You will get a feel for this.
You should be measuring across the terminals of the capacitor under test. Turn your 'scope sensitivity to it's least sensitive position using a X10 probe (always use X10 probes!). Set to AC coupling, you do not want to read how much DC voltage you have for these tests. Then after it's running, make your "Y" channel more sensitive until you get something you can read. Make sure you return the sensitivity to it's least sensitive position before moving the probe, discharge on the ground (chassis normally works well for this).
New digital 'scopes and USB 'scopes may not be able to perform these tests. I blew one channel out of mine following this procedure. It seems the coupling cap was not rated very highly and "snap" - dead channel.
-Chris
anatech said:
Thanks Chris, sorry held off buying the caps was intrigued when you mentioned replacing feedback caps with higher voltages.
Your explanation about using newer caps, which can pack more punch within similar physical sizes makes perfect sense due to advances in technology.
I originally said my Cyrus 2 was a version 6, but upon lifting the lid its actually a version 7.
I also have another Cyrus 2 & psx, but much older (1986) plastic case push button and no balance control, doesn't work either but makes me want to get it out of storage again.
Bit of useless info but-
I used to deliver lorry loads of wood lacquer and stains used for the Mission Cyrus speaker range to the Huntington factory in the late 80's.
I got to know a chap who worked there who eventually got me the early Cyrus 2 amps and 782 speakers at a vastly reduced rate. 🙂
Thanks again for all your help.
John
Hi John,
Well, that person may still be there. Cyrus has now bought themselves back from Mission. They are a great bunch of guys.
Have you ever noticed the newer audiophile grade capacitors are normally the same size as the original for the same voltage rating? I wonder why that is? 😉
Your older equipment will need the same work done. It should sound just as good as the one you're working on now. Didn't you always want a system in the bedroom?
-Chris
Well, that person may still be there. Cyrus has now bought themselves back from Mission. They are a great bunch of guys.
What I normally see is that the same voltage rating has inferior dielectric to the older capacitors. The newer ones that are the same physical size a the old ones will measure the same or better for dielectric absorption.
Have you ever noticed the newer audiophile grade capacitors are normally the same size as the original for the same voltage rating? I wonder why that is? 😉
Your older equipment will need the same work done. It should sound just as good as the one you're working on now. Didn't you always want a system in the bedroom?
-Chris
Thanks Chris for your help, much appreciated 🙂
No harm at all having a new bedroom setup 🙂
I have now got hold of most of the caps, I'm still waiting on the black gate n's 470x6.3v
Intrigued by using different feedback caps, I have purchased two more sizes, a pair of 470x16v and 470x35v polars, both will fit under the ribbon cable they are made by CapXon.
Is it possible to fit one black gate n 470x6.3v and one 470x35v as feedback caps in the same amp, then listen to left and right channels individually, hoping that I should be able to tell the difference between both caps?
Or will I blow something up doing this? 🙂 🙁
What are the 8 pink and 4 slightly smaller pink caps for? should these be replaced, as I seem to recall that the smaller caps go out of tolerance more quickly.
Not that I need slit foil caps, I did find a source which seem reasonably priced http://www.audiocap.co.uk/slit-foil-capacitor-21-c.asp
Know doubt you guys already know off them.
John
No harm at all having a new bedroom setup 🙂
I have now got hold of most of the caps, I'm still waiting on the black gate n's 470x6.3v
Intrigued by using different feedback caps, I have purchased two more sizes, a pair of 470x16v and 470x35v polars, both will fit under the ribbon cable they are made by CapXon.
Is it possible to fit one black gate n 470x6.3v and one 470x35v as feedback caps in the same amp, then listen to left and right channels individually, hoping that I should be able to tell the difference between both caps?
Or will I blow something up doing this? 🙂 🙁
What are the 8 pink and 4 slightly smaller pink caps for? should these be replaced, as I seem to recall that the smaller caps go out of tolerance more quickly.
Not that I need slit foil caps, I did find a source which seem reasonably priced http://www.audiocap.co.uk/slit-foil-capacitor-21-c.asp
Know doubt you guys already know off them.
John
Hi John,
No harm in trying one capacitor on each channel. I don't think you will honestly be able to hear a difference though. Go ahead and try that.
For right now, why not complete the changes you are ready for and have a listen? You can then determine if they sound as you expected and go further if you feel it is required.
-Chris
No harm in trying one capacitor on each channel. I don't think you will honestly be able to hear a difference though. Go ahead and try that.
I'd have to open one up and look to be honest with you. Are they rectangular? If they are, they are plastic film and do not require replacement. They are quite reliable.
For right now, why not complete the changes you are ready for and have a listen? You can then determine if they sound as you expected and go further if you feel it is required.
-Chris
Chris, I'll give it a go when the black-gates come, I did a bit of googling CapXon and they come out quite unfavorably for reliability, will be an interesting test for me, I will give them a few days for settling in I read an old HIFI article that BG's sound better and better when bedded in.
No need to lift the lid Chis, maybe you will know by location,
the Pink caps could actually be Orange (eyesight not so hot), these caps are in location c23/c24/c25?/c26/c31/c32/c6/c5
and c17/c18/c57/c58 they are small round radials.
John
No need to lift the lid Chis, maybe you will know by location,
the Pink caps could actually be Orange (eyesight not so hot), these caps are in location c23/c24/c25?/c26/c31/c32/c6/c5
and c17/c18/c57/c58 they are small round radials.
John
Hi John,
Replacing these (they are electrolytic capacitors) may be hit and miss. I often measure these and find they are better than some new ones I get.
The capacitors that should be of higher concern are those that are close to a heat source, or have higher currents flowing through them. From experience, I find that any capacitor rated at less than 16 volts should be replaced with one rated at a higher voltage. It seems that the oxide layers in these are very fragile compared to types rated 16 volts and higher. There appears to be discrete jumps in dielectric quality, and the first is 16 volts. 35 volt are next, followed by 63 volt. Physical size of the replacement part should be considered carefully. If it doesn't fit, don't use it! Simple idea, but many people will shoe horn large components in anyway and end up with other troubles. Broken traces are but one problem.
After the plates form, you're off to the races. They don't take long to form and might possibly sound different. But after an hour, the only thing that is changing is you. You are becoming use to the sound of whatever you changed. Then there is the psychological aspect that is shifting. I do believe that much of what people hear after extended break in is this mechanism.
Just enjoy listening to your equipment. If there is something to notice, you will without having to critically listen. In fact, listening casually for a few days as your read or walk about will be more valuable. Just remember that there may not be an audible difference, so don't go looking for one. You will be sure to find it!
-Chris
Replacing these (they are electrolytic capacitors) may be hit and miss. I often measure these and find they are better than some new ones I get.
The capacitors that should be of higher concern are those that are close to a heat source, or have higher currents flowing through them. From experience, I find that any capacitor rated at less than 16 volts should be replaced with one rated at a higher voltage. It seems that the oxide layers in these are very fragile compared to types rated 16 volts and higher. There appears to be discrete jumps in dielectric quality, and the first is 16 volts. 35 volt are next, followed by 63 volt. Physical size of the replacement part should be considered carefully. If it doesn't fit, don't use it! Simple idea, but many people will shoe horn large components in anyway and end up with other troubles. Broken traces are but one problem.
Don't believe that rot!
After the plates form, you're off to the races. They don't take long to form and might possibly sound different. But after an hour, the only thing that is changing is you. You are becoming use to the sound of whatever you changed. Then there is the psychological aspect that is shifting. I do believe that much of what people hear after extended break in is this mechanism.
Just enjoy listening to your equipment. If there is something to notice, you will without having to critically listen. In fact, listening casually for a few days as your read or walk about will be more valuable. Just remember that there may not be an audible difference, so don't go looking for one. You will be sure to find it!
-Chris
Hi all,
Well I soldered in the two feedback caps, I used the 2 x 470x6.3 blackgates and also the two 22x50v polars under the ribbon, I chickened out fitting 1 of 470x6.3 and 1 of 470x35.
I powered up the amp and kept very low for a couple of hours.
To be honest I can't tell any difference.
I played a Guns & roses Album, and whacked up the volume half way, amp can certainly blast out some sound without distortion 🙂
Still I find the bass weak, no real difference, maybe its my speakers, I thought that with 4 bass/mids I would get a bit of floor/chest rumbling.
My speakers sit on rubber handballs cut in half, I must admit I have never tried any other speaker sets, any speakers that are well suited to these amps?
John
Well I soldered in the two feedback caps, I used the 2 x 470x6.3 blackgates and also the two 22x50v polars under the ribbon, I chickened out fitting 1 of 470x6.3 and 1 of 470x35.
I powered up the amp and kept very low for a couple of hours.
To be honest I can't tell any difference.
I played a Guns & roses Album, and whacked up the volume half way, amp can certainly blast out some sound without distortion 🙂
Still I find the bass weak, no real difference, maybe its my speakers, I thought that with 4 bass/mids I would get a bit of floor/chest rumbling.
My speakers sit on rubber handballs cut in half, I must admit I have never tried any other speaker sets, any speakers that are well suited to these amps?
John
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