Hi gloss white is great. Here's my JX92'srevell said:I just finished painting my needles, so it's picture time.
Hi gloss white paint makes them look like expensive design speakers😀
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Can you just use john krutke's (zaph) TB w3-871 correction network for these needles or is there more to it?
Same question for the hivi-b3s. A more complicated network, that is...
Same question for the hivi-b3s. A more complicated network, that is...
Dear Revell,
Your Needles look realy professional, I hope they are sounding a lot better as well.
Dear Matjans,
There are some details of the circuit for the Tangband/Needle combination at the beginning of this thread. See Berndts first few posts. Though you could use the FRS8 🙂
Regards - Jem
Your Needles look realy professional, I hope they are sounding a lot better as well.
Dear Matjans,
There are some details of the circuit for the Tangband/Needle combination at the beginning of this thread. See Berndts first few posts. Though you could use the FRS8 🙂
Regards - Jem
@revell:
Very nice design, I like white as colour for speakers very much.
@ all Needles fans:
I have good news: The biggest german DIY audio magazine "Klang & Ton" featured in the current issue an article about the needles (and also about the Viech, btw), all in all seven pages, with plans, pictures and measurements. Especially the description of the listening session is very nice.
Your needles are celebrities now. In a way. 😀
You see the two needle versions and the Viech on the bottom left on the title page.
http://www.brieden.de/klangton.html
Nice greetings, Berndt
Very nice design, I like white as colour for speakers very much.
@ all Needles fans:
I have good news: The biggest german DIY audio magazine "Klang & Ton" featured in the current issue an article about the needles (and also about the Viech, btw), all in all seven pages, with plans, pictures and measurements. Especially the description of the listening session is very nice.
Your needles are celebrities now. In a way. 😀
You see the two needle versions and the Viech on the bottom left on the title page.
http://www.brieden.de/klangton.html
Nice greetings, Berndt
How can I modify the Neddles for two tang band drivers? Preferably in the front.
Is it possible to do this at all?
Or should i just build the needle and add another sealed or ported enclosure on top for the second driver?
Also, if using the tangband, should I XO it at 14k and use a tweeter for above? if so, what tweeter is an inexpensive addition?
Is it possible to do this at all?
Or should i just build the needle and add another sealed or ported enclosure on top for the second driver?
Also, if using the tangband, should I XO it at 14k and use a tweeter for above? if so, what tweeter is an inexpensive addition?
as of yet i'm using the needles with the tangbands fullrange (no tweet, no sub). I'm planning on using a sub xo'd at ~70hz and a motorola horn tweeter (EUR 5 at a local dumpstore, goes up to 30kHz), xo'd at something like 12-14kHz.
Not fullrange anymore but more like wide-range.
Not fullrange anymore but more like wide-range.
Relax said:How can I modify the Neddles for two tang band drivers? Preferably in the front.
Is it possible to do this at all?
Also, if using the tangband, should I XO it at 14k and use a tweeter for above? if so, what tweeter is an inexpensive addition?
Relax,
I added a second TB 871 on the rear of the cabinet directly behind the front driver - a bipole arrangement. Right now I'm just testing this configuration. You do need to leave 18"- 19" of clearance behind the cabinet to the wall.
Salas added an Audax $5 tweeter (from Madisound) to his TB3 design which is also a bipole design, see here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=731262#post731262
I've built the TB3's with the Audax tweeter and it sounds very nice. The tweeter definately adds a much needed top end to the 871.
-Ken
If I were to cross over to a tweeter, would I still want the notch filter on the tangband? I would think not since the notch is above the 14k i would cross at.
I like to hear you can add another tangband, however I would really liek to have it visible from the front. What would adding a sealed enclosure for another tangband directly ontop.
like this:
Or i was thinking maybe XO both TangBand drivers at 14k, and then use a tweeter for on up to reduce comb filtering:
I like to hear you can add another tangband, however I would really liek to have it visible from the front. What would adding a sealed enclosure for another tangband directly ontop.
like this:

Or i was thinking maybe XO both TangBand drivers at 14k, and then use a tweeter for on up to reduce comb filtering:

Relax,
I really don't know. Why do you want the second driver on the front???
I guess it will work, but not sure how well it will sound. I'm no expert - especially on TL. Maybe a second 871 can be added under the first.
-Ken
I like to hear you can add another tangband, however I would really liek to have it visible from the front. What would adding a sealed enclosure for another tangband directly ontop.
I really don't know. Why do you want the second driver on the front???
I guess it will work, but not sure how well it will sound. I'm no expert - especially on TL. Maybe a second 871 can be added under the first.
-Ken
I really want the second driver in the front for the look.
The second driver i want for Increased SPL.
The second driver i want for Increased SPL.
Does anyone have any experience with the TANG BAND W3-879S?
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-810
Would this driver perform as well as the W3-871s in the Needles?
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-810
Would this driver perform as well as the W3-871s in the Needles?
Call me lazy, but do you think that these speakers could be made of PVC and right-angle brackets? A pair could be made very, very cheaply that way. (Plus, I'm much better at making things from PVC than from wood.)
Has anyone finished these with the Hi-VI B3S? I remember someone had posted that they were finishing a pair. Tell us how they sound and post a photo if you can.
type said:Does anyone have any experience with the TANG BAND W3-879S?
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-810
Would this driver perform as well as the W3-871s in the Needles?
The 879 doesn't have as good high end response as the 871 does.
Spasticteapot said:Call me lazy, but do you think that these speakers could be made of PVC and right-angle brackets? A pair could be made very, very cheaply that way. (Plus, I'm much better at making things from PVC than from wood.)
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/projects/sampson/index.html
Timn8ter said:
I saw those a while back, but I don't understand how to calculate the correct length of tube. (A little help, perhaps?)
GM said:Greets!
line length = (inner length*outer length)^0.5
GM
I really wish I understood that.
What is the inner length and outer length referring to? And are you saying to take the root of the inner length by the outer length?
(I'm sorry I'm such a doofus, but I'm trying to make some simple TL's based around the Hi-Vi B3S speakers, and a TL similar to those on the "audio lego" page sounds like a nifty idea.)
Greets!
Draw a 'L' on a piece of paper or in a Cad program and another one parallel to it some distance away. This is the profile of one of those pipes. Now measure the length of both (one should be longer than the other), multiply the two numbers and find their root. This is the line's mean length.
So either work it out on paper or pre-assemble the parts with a straight piece that you know is too long, measure/calc its length to find out how much you need to shorten it.
There is actually an end correction when used as an acoustic device due to the air mass plug in the pipe popping out the end a bit (overshoot) that makes a given pipe length acoustically longer than it physically is, but most folks ignore this out of ignorance and isn't audible unless the pipe is quite large in cross section (CSA).
GM
Draw a 'L' on a piece of paper or in a Cad program and another one parallel to it some distance away. This is the profile of one of those pipes. Now measure the length of both (one should be longer than the other), multiply the two numbers and find their root. This is the line's mean length.
So either work it out on paper or pre-assemble the parts with a straight piece that you know is too long, measure/calc its length to find out how much you need to shorten it.
There is actually an end correction when used as an acoustic device due to the air mass plug in the pipe popping out the end a bit (overshoot) that makes a given pipe length acoustically longer than it physically is, but most folks ignore this out of ignorance and isn't audible unless the pipe is quite large in cross section (CSA).
GM
I plan on building a pair of needles very soon. I'm trying not to overstep my own abilities, so I ordered the TangBand W3-871S so I don't have to reinvent the wheel and can follow in others' footsteps.
Once I get them built, though, I know I will want to experiment and try other things. The option I find most interesting after reading this thread is the bipole arrangement. I know this is a newb question, but I'm a newb, so it's ok.
How do you wire the speakers as bipole? Do I need four sets of speaker outputs, or can it be done with just two?
I can find how to wire things in series, in parallel, etc, but my internet search skills are apparently lacking since I can't figure out something that it seems everyone else knows how to do. Sorry for my ignorance.
~erv
Once I get them built, though, I know I will want to experiment and try other things. The option I find most interesting after reading this thread is the bipole arrangement. I know this is a newb question, but I'm a newb, so it's ok.
How do you wire the speakers as bipole? Do I need four sets of speaker outputs, or can it be done with just two?
I can find how to wire things in series, in parallel, etc, but my internet search skills are apparently lacking since I can't figure out something that it seems everyone else knows how to do. Sorry for my ignorance.
~erv
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