This is a sonotube construction page, it is a good guide of how to cut circle hehe. Btw I use only Demel Tool for my Sonotube haha, I will post some result in Loudspeaker later ! YA
Just wanted to tell Chris (and anyone else that might be interested) that i put my circle cutting jig in another thread here, in case you missed it. Didn't want to jack this thread.
It's no beauty i know (it's damn ugly really), but it works.
edit: Isn't it time to start a tool/machining/metal/woodworking
area on this forum?
Seems to me there would be interest, and maybe more
interaction between the different "camps" that wouldn't happen otherwise. What do you guys think? Just a thought.
/Andreas
It's no beauty i know (it's damn ugly really), but it works.
edit: Isn't it time to start a tool/machining/metal/woodworking
area on this forum?
Seems to me there would be interest, and maybe more
interaction between the different "camps" that wouldn't happen otherwise. What do you guys think? Just a thought.
/Andreas
chris ma said:Does anybody know where I can buy the Jasper Circle Jigs in Canada? I am just trying to avoid PARTSexpress's shipping and custom broker fees and duty if there is alternative.
Thanks,
Chris
Peter Daniel said:
I believe there is a store called Pine Valley and they should carry it.
Like Chris, I'm also looking for a Jasper Jig in Canada. I checked with Pine Valley, however they only have the model 400, not the model 200. Does anyone know a store in Canada which sell the Jasper Jig model 200?
Thanks,
Dave
jasper jjig - canada
Jasper type jigs try
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?category=1,43000&page=43001&abspage=&SID=&ccurrency=1
Looks lke the 400:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=40970&category=1,43000,43001&ccurrency=1&SID=
You might also phone your local House of Tools. You never know.
http://www.houseoftools.com/
Jasper type jigs try
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?category=1,43000&page=43001&abspage=&SID=&ccurrency=1
Looks lke the 400:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=40970&category=1,43000,43001&ccurrency=1&SID=
You might also phone your local House of Tools. You never know.
http://www.houseoftools.com/
Finishing aluminum case
Hi folks,
I read many of the posts here and I am ready to try my hand at finishing my case at home. I have never tried many of the techniques you folks have suggested and pehaps you chaps could bring me up to speed.
A)I want to have smooth edges on the aluminum sheets and I would like to smooth the inner fins of the heat sinks(there is a little burr on the ends of the sinks from the cutting). I think it would look good if the front plate had a bevelled edge.
B)Can I cut the power line entry module using a router or just finish with a router. Can it be done free hand(I have a steady hand & good eye)(but not for women)?
C) How about finishing the aluminum top and face with a smooth finish? I think I read some folks using chemicals. The pieces have some scuffs & scratches but no deep marks.
D) The heat sinks are recycled. Is there a way to make them look new, including between the fins?
The case will be home to Quasi two channel mosfet power amplifier. The aluminum is 1/4" thick. I have router, jig saw, drills, drill press, cordless drils, cordless impact drill, saws all, table saw, chop saw, grinder, hand grinder and a cheap dremel tool. I have nice safety gear and I try to be very careful and have caution and respect for equipment.
Can you guys push me in the right direction for a big finish on this thing?
Cheers,
Shawn.
Hi folks,
I read many of the posts here and I am ready to try my hand at finishing my case at home. I have never tried many of the techniques you folks have suggested and pehaps you chaps could bring me up to speed.
A)I want to have smooth edges on the aluminum sheets and I would like to smooth the inner fins of the heat sinks(there is a little burr on the ends of the sinks from the cutting). I think it would look good if the front plate had a bevelled edge.
B)Can I cut the power line entry module using a router or just finish with a router. Can it be done free hand(I have a steady hand & good eye)(but not for women)?
C) How about finishing the aluminum top and face with a smooth finish? I think I read some folks using chemicals. The pieces have some scuffs & scratches but no deep marks.
D) The heat sinks are recycled. Is there a way to make them look new, including between the fins?
The case will be home to Quasi two channel mosfet power amplifier. The aluminum is 1/4" thick. I have router, jig saw, drills, drill press, cordless drils, cordless impact drill, saws all, table saw, chop saw, grinder, hand grinder and a cheap dremel tool. I have nice safety gear and I try to be very careful and have caution and respect for equipment.
Can you guys push me in the right direction for a big finish on this thing?
Cheers,
Shawn.
Attachments
Hi,
do not even think of using a hand router to route aluminium.
The vibration causing by the tool chattering will break the router bit and make a mess of the machined surface.
You may get away with one of those burrs that remove the material by filing the edge. But you will need a steady hand and slowish speed.
Aluminium will clog up your tools and bits unless you use a cutting lubricant (and even then). I have not used parafin but heard it recommended many times.
A range of hand files, including down to needle, coarse to medium to smooth will give a good surface IF YOU KEEP THE TEETH CLOG FREE. Can you draw file? What would you US folk call this procedure?
You can polish aluminium but you need a blemish free surface first. If you go for anodise then polish first.
Silicon carbide will give a nice, almost brushed, look to aluminium finishing with 400 or 600 grit.
You can file (or grind) a chamfer on your face plate but it is a lot of work (choose a cool day). Finishing by carefull filing and draw filing to keep those crisp edges. I made up a jig to keep the file at a constant angle to the machined surface. A steel roller about 12mm diameter and 150mm long held in a yoke and bolted too the front of my vice. It held the file sufficiently accurately that the filed surface started to have the look of a semi polished surface ground plate. The pieces were quite small about 100mm by 20mm on the machined flat surface. I was very pleased with the result. It might be difficult to make a jig for a chamfer but it should be possible.
do not even think of using a hand router to route aluminium.
The vibration causing by the tool chattering will break the router bit and make a mess of the machined surface.
You may get away with one of those burrs that remove the material by filing the edge. But you will need a steady hand and slowish speed.
Aluminium will clog up your tools and bits unless you use a cutting lubricant (and even then). I have not used parafin but heard it recommended many times.
A range of hand files, including down to needle, coarse to medium to smooth will give a good surface IF YOU KEEP THE TEETH CLOG FREE. Can you draw file? What would you US folk call this procedure?
You can polish aluminium but you need a blemish free surface first. If you go for anodise then polish first.
Silicon carbide will give a nice, almost brushed, look to aluminium finishing with 400 or 600 grit.
You can file (or grind) a chamfer on your face plate but it is a lot of work (choose a cool day). Finishing by carefull filing and draw filing to keep those crisp edges. I made up a jig to keep the file at a constant angle to the machined surface. A steel roller about 12mm diameter and 150mm long held in a yoke and bolted too the front of my vice. It held the file sufficiently accurately that the filed surface started to have the look of a semi polished surface ground plate. The pieces were quite small about 100mm by 20mm on the machined flat surface. I was very pleased with the result. It might be difficult to make a jig for a chamfer but it should be possible.
Cutting has begun
Well I got right down to business tonight with the 1/4" thick aluminum. It is true; it cuts like wood but perhaps easier but slower! Router works on it like a charm and free hand too! Just like going through thick or hard wood you take several passes to get it done. It was really simple and I used the stock blades and bits that I have for wood working. I placed some 1/4" wood veneer under the work to keep it off the metal of the table top.
I want to thank Peter Daniel and Magura for their discussions on this thread. Cheers to Mr. T for putting in his 2cents of common sense. Attached is a little practice piece I made today.
Thanks All,
Shawn. 🙂
Well I got right down to business tonight with the 1/4" thick aluminum. It is true; it cuts like wood but perhaps easier but slower! Router works on it like a charm and free hand too! Just like going through thick or hard wood you take several passes to get it done. It was really simple and I used the stock blades and bits that I have for wood working. I placed some 1/4" wood veneer under the work to keep it off the metal of the table top.
I want to thank Peter Daniel and Magura for their discussions on this thread. Cheers to Mr. T for putting in his 2cents of common sense. Attached is a little practice piece I made today.
Thanks All,
Shawn. 🙂
Attachments
flux01 said:Like Chris, I'm also looking for a Jasper Jig in Canada. I checked with Pine Valley, however they only have the model 400, not the model 200. Does anyone know a store in Canada which sell the Jasper Jig model 200?
Thanks,
Dave
I would be shocked to know Lee Valley will not order it in for you. Did you ask them if they would?
If that fails contact Atlas Machinery in Toronto (416) 598-3553. I don't know about Jasper but they seem to carry just about everything tool related. I mean it, total candy store for real dudes and uber geeks.
Shawn.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
- Home
- General Interest
- Everything Else
- Cutting, drilling, mounting etc. for the absolute beginner