They aren't converted. Numbered drills are just that, numbered. Through a miracle of ancient measurement systems, we have "number drills", "letter drills", and "fractionals". You need the specific number drills for those tap sizes.
As for sawing the angle, your best shot is the "point up" method. This keeps the relative cross section the same. One would want to avoid cutting large cross sections of material to prevent large (long) chips from filling the gullet space in the tooth form.
"Please go on ."
Actually, I'm tapped out (and just being a smartass, to boot...). With the countersinking, I think it will look both well designed, and finished.
Jean, as you can see from the chart some drill types come very close to each other in size, and it is tempting to try tapping with a close substitute. Don't do it with the smaller ones (technically, don't do it at all), you will end up with either a sloppy hole, or with part of the tap imbedded in your part.
The chart P posted should be printed up and hung next to your bits. Make it nice and big. Magura and Chipco can possibly remember all this, they are immersed, but I certainly can't... And I'll bet that even they don't know how to put just a few thousandths back into a hole.
Many machine shop suppliers frequently put bit sets, (typically 1/2" and down... fractional, letter, and number) in really handy cases, on sale. Keep your eyes open, the prices can sometimes be quite good. And as soon as you have all the bits, you will find yourself using ones you would have never thought to buy.
Another nice thing about having calipers?... with the chart, you can take a pile of bits with the markings worn off, and use them for more than guesswork.
E
Actually, I'm tapped out (and just being a smartass, to boot...). With the countersinking, I think it will look both well designed, and finished.
Jean, as you can see from the chart some drill types come very close to each other in size, and it is tempting to try tapping with a close substitute. Don't do it with the smaller ones (technically, don't do it at all), you will end up with either a sloppy hole, or with part of the tap imbedded in your part.
The chart P posted should be printed up and hung next to your bits. Make it nice and big. Magura and Chipco can possibly remember all this, they are immersed, but I certainly can't... And I'll bet that even they don't know how to put just a few thousandths back into a hole.
Many machine shop suppliers frequently put bit sets, (typically 1/2" and down... fractional, letter, and number) in really handy cases, on sale. Keep your eyes open, the prices can sometimes be quite good. And as soon as you have all the bits, you will find yourself using ones you would have never thought to buy.
Another nice thing about having calipers?... with the chart, you can take a pile of bits with the markings worn off, and use them for more than guesswork.
E
Does anybody know where I can buy the Jasper Circle Jigs in Canada? I am just trying to avoid PARTSexpress's shipping and custom broker fees and duty if there is alternative.
Thanks,
Chris
Thanks,
Chris
Can anyone tell me what RMS output I can expect at a variety of voltages (GCs)? And whether variable V PSUs can be used as volume controls?
Thanks
E
Thanks
E
ekd said:
This is a question Ive been wondering about as well. The problem is that its relatively expensive to make an actual test....anyone??
Magura🙂
Yup.
Or I would have tried it . This a "gotta know", for me.
E
M, the curve (above) sure suggests that it would be a smooth progression, yes?
Or I would have tried it . This a "gotta know", for me.
E
M, the curve (above) sure suggests that it would be a smooth progression, yes?
The voltage rating of PS affects the power of the amp, but power has nothing to do with gain of the amp (which translates into actual volume level). So by changing PS voltage level, we change the power rating, but we do nothing to actual volume setting. In other words 10W amp will play with the same volume level as 50W amp.
Duh!
Thanks, P!!
I am having a great laugh at myself for not seeing that, and I'm gonna crack one beer to celebrate improvement in my knowledge, and about 3 for you.
I owe ya! Do you know what a variable V AC trans costs? And how utterly useless it would be around here?
Please, have a good laugh on me!
I AM 'LECTROTARD!!! Don't make me get up... 😀
E
Thanks, P!!
I am having a great laugh at myself for not seeing that, and I'm gonna crack one beer to celebrate improvement in my knowledge, and about 3 for you.
I owe ya! Do you know what a variable V AC trans costs? And how utterly useless it would be around here?
Please, have a good laugh on me!
I AM 'LECTROTARD!!! Don't make me get up... 😀
E
Doing a little research I came up with the same result as PD....so the next idea would naturally be to control the gain and the psu voltage....no can do neither, cause the amp wont work below a certain voltage in most cases 🙁
Magura🙂
Magura🙂
Not only did this train of thought point out huge cracks in my basic understanding, but the knowledge just attained is busy filling some of them in as I quaff the promised brew.
I'll say it again. There isn't anything this crew couldn't eventually build. Not one damn thing.
E
I'll say it again. There isn't anything this crew couldn't eventually build. Not one damn thing.
E
Does the voltage level (on tap) do anything more than determine a ceiling?
In other words... If I have 2 setups, identical in all respects except the V available, will they sound the same at the same volume (determined by the lesser one's limits)?
Does having more V than you ever need do anything for headroom, or is current alone responsible?
If you need to limit the output (speaker safety), is it cleaner to set a voltage limit, or a gain limit?
Are those little inline attenuators (source to amp) good for adjusting a bi-amp setup for good H and L freq balance (like an L pad does a normal speaker's input)?
Thanks,
E
In other words... If I have 2 setups, identical in all respects except the V available, will they sound the same at the same volume (determined by the lesser one's limits)?
Does having more V than you ever need do anything for headroom, or is current alone responsible?
If you need to limit the output (speaker safety), is it cleaner to set a voltage limit, or a gain limit?
Are those little inline attenuators (source to amp) good for adjusting a bi-amp setup for good H and L freq balance (like an L pad does a normal speaker's input)?
Thanks,
E
This has come up every so often...
It's the question of gloves & jewelry whilst working on rotating equipment. My other hobbie (confirmed junky status) is sailing. We had a guy lose the tip of a finger in a turning block last year. Successful reattachment, but he will never be a hand model.
Well here's the link for you with a strong stomach... but you'll remember to remove those wedding rings and bracelets in the future!
http://www.sailinganarchy.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4954
It's the question of gloves & jewelry whilst working on rotating equipment. My other hobbie (confirmed junky status) is sailing. We had a guy lose the tip of a finger in a turning block last year. Successful reattachment, but he will never be a hand model.
Well here's the link for you with a strong stomach... but you'll remember to remove those wedding rings and bracelets in the future!
http://www.sailinganarchy.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4954
This stuff about removing jewellery goes for working with electricity as well. I have seen at least 1 casr of a guy loosing a finger by creating a short through a wedding ring 🙁
I bet one gets fried if a necklace makes a short as well.
Magura🙂
I bet one gets fried if a necklace makes a short as well.
Magura🙂
- Status
- Not open for further replies.