Gear head drill presses are relatively few here. Generally, those machines with over a 3/4" capacity would be geared. Under that, not very common.
I think in a small drill press, step belts are fine. Not convenient, but just fine. If you mean variable belt drive systems, they're fine too but generally not available on low priced tools (with any reasonable level of confidence). Further, you colud replace belts for a lifetime for the cost of a pinion for an Arboga or Abene
Bridgeport (type) knee mills are the common demononator here. From a practical matter, this is the tool that defines a "tool room" in this country. They all have belt drives, even the electronic speed control versions.
I think in a small drill press, step belts are fine. Not convenient, but just fine. If you mean variable belt drive systems, they're fine too but generally not available on low priced tools (with any reasonable level of confidence). Further, you colud replace belts for a lifetime for the cost of a pinion for an Arboga or Abene
Bridgeport (type) knee mills are the common demononator here. From a practical matter, this is the tool that defines a "tool room" in this country. They all have belt drives, even the electronic speed control versions.
Sure the beltdrive usually works fine on a bridgeport mill, but not all of them do. I have personal experience with a beltdrive that went up in smoke severel times on a 200.000USD CNC mill.
My comment about beltdrive was aimed at the low budget types as they usually are working near the load limit....those are a pain.
Magura🙂
My comment about beltdrive was aimed at the low budget types as they usually are working near the load limit....those are a pain.
Magura🙂
A little help?
I cleaned up the mini's wiring, and got .125" off of the height (that's it... that's all... 3" x 3" x 1").
This leaves me with one last improvement needed for the case.
Does anyone have any ideas how I can fit enough connectors and 2 RCAs into a panel thats .750" x 2.750"? This setup works, but I'd like to eliminate the cable.
And, as usual, I'm still looking for comments on this project. Of any kind...
E
I cleaned up the mini's wiring, and got .125" off of the height (that's it... that's all... 3" x 3" x 1").
This leaves me with one last improvement needed for the case.
Does anyone have any ideas how I can fit enough connectors and 2 RCAs into a panel thats .750" x 2.750"? This setup works, but I'd like to eliminate the cable.
And, as usual, I'm still looking for comments on this project. Of any kind...
E
Attachments
Is the problem that there's not enough area on the panel for the RCA connectors, or that there is not enough clearance behind the panel?
if you have almost enough room, maybe you could shave the inner part of the RCA connector down into a D shaped cross section, so the outer part of the connector could go all the way to the edge?
It's close, Bzo...
But no go. Just a coupla tenths... It's the isolators and nuts that became huge.
I need to either find a smaller way to connect the 7, or make my own (and use your idea).
We'll get this... Keep rattling it around in your head, I appreciate any thoughts here.
Also, as to placing a drill press when space is tight? How about this...
Make a fixture that holds a roll of TP, and chuck it into the press. Put the press next to the toilet, and tell everyone that it's an automatic dispensor (and rewinder, if it's reversable).
Be the first on your block!
😀
E
But no go. Just a coupla tenths... It's the isolators and nuts that became huge.
I need to either find a smaller way to connect the 7, or make my own (and use your idea).
We'll get this... Keep rattling it around in your head, I appreciate any thoughts here.
Also, as to placing a drill press when space is tight? How about this...
Make a fixture that holds a roll of TP, and chuck it into the press. Put the press next to the toilet, and tell everyone that it's an automatic dispensor (and rewinder, if it's reversable).
Be the first on your block!
😀
E
A thought....
If you made the rear panel of nylon, you could machine the RCA's down to the diameter of the plug and glue it directly in holes drilled in the rear panel. That way your only limitation would be the diameter of the mating plugs.
Magura🙂
If you made the rear panel of nylon, you could machine the RCA's down to the diameter of the plug and glue it directly in holes drilled in the rear panel. That way your only limitation would be the diameter of the mating plugs.
Magura🙂
Can anyone think of a way to incorporate non-isolated RCAs into my above design, and retain a proper star ground (I AM 'Lectrotard... If all you have to do is point out the obvious, please do, and laugh all you want. I'll take it... I'm a big boy 😀 ).
Bzo, your idea will be incorporated, but into the term strip. It gives me back a .200" x 2.150" area. In this world, that is serious real estate. Pics soon.
TIA,
E
Bzo, your idea will be incorporated, but into the term strip. It gives me back a .200" x 2.150" area. In this world, that is serious real estate. Pics soon.
TIA,
E
Magura,
It is the last resort, and may have to be used.
The situation is this:
I have taken the surface area down to the limits I have found by some experimentation. Every mm2 that I give up has to be replaced by machining into the case. I murdered the first case by cutting various vent designs into it, and found a couple nice schemes, but increasing the surface area by trenching would really wreck the looks.
The case is only .125" thick, so any real recovery of that amount of area would leave me with a finned tube... That had enough time into it to cover the cost of 30' of finned tube. And weakening the walls will cost some of the pressure of the close fit. Which leads to needing more fasteners, and worse yet.. more exposed fasteners. I'm going for as clean a design as possible, and...
I have countersunk enough fasteners in my life that having them sticking out of my audio equipment is about as appealing as having them sticking out of my mashed potatos...
Thanks for the time, M. If the ground issue can be handled, this is it. If not, please keep heat sinking on your mind? I'll check in often...
E
It is the last resort, and may have to be used.
The situation is this:
I have taken the surface area down to the limits I have found by some experimentation. Every mm2 that I give up has to be replaced by machining into the case. I murdered the first case by cutting various vent designs into it, and found a couple nice schemes, but increasing the surface area by trenching would really wreck the looks.
The case is only .125" thick, so any real recovery of that amount of area would leave me with a finned tube... That had enough time into it to cover the cost of 30' of finned tube. And weakening the walls will cost some of the pressure of the close fit. Which leads to needing more fasteners, and worse yet.. more exposed fasteners. I'm going for as clean a design as possible, and...
I have countersunk enough fasteners in my life that having them sticking out of my audio equipment is about as appealing as having them sticking out of my mashed potatos...
Thanks for the time, M. If the ground issue can be handled, this is it. If not, please keep heat sinking on your mind? I'll check in often...
E
ekd, to use Magura's idea in metal, why not just insulate the connectors. Something like polyimide(kapton) would work well, but just about any plastic film would probably be fine. Just cut a rectangular strip that matches the circumference of the RCA jack and wrap it. I probably wouldn't glue them in, but would use use some sort of bracket (non conductive, or insulated from chassis) behind the RCAs to hold them in.
Speaking of venting cabinets, any ideas on making attractive vents easily on a blank panel? My current plan is to use my drill press with a fence, but I'm not looking forward to the prospect of drilling dozens or hundreds of holes that need to line up precisely!
edit: now that I think about, polyimide commonly comes in adhesive tapes which would be even easier.
Speaking of venting cabinets, any ideas on making attractive vents easily on a blank panel? My current plan is to use my drill press with a fence, but I'm not looking forward to the prospect of drilling dozens or hundreds of holes that need to line up precisely!
edit: now that I think about, polyimide commonly comes in adhesive tapes which would be even easier.
Bzo...
How thick of a panel, and of what material?
If it's thin enough stuff, we could help you rig up a temporary mill so you can cut even, short slots.
How cool would that be?
E
How thick of a panel, and of what material?
If it's thin enough stuff, we could help you rig up a temporary mill so you can cut even, short slots.
How cool would that be?
E
"Can anyone think of a way to incorporate non-isolated RCAs into my above design, and retain a proper star ground "
I looked at a couple of "authoritative" diagrams of a star ground. In one, D.Self's, the path from the star point runs back through the input shield to the RCA (outer part) and then to the earthing point. Done this way, isolating the RCA connector seems superfulous. I say this after going to the trouble of isolating the RCA connector so I'm in a quandry about what's best. (I've also used and RCA without isolation to see if there was an obvious problem and found none so far.)
But more to your point, Ive used scrap pieces of unused PCB material by drilling the right sized hole for the connector and trimming around it with a Dremel to get a nice looking shape.
I looked at a couple of "authoritative" diagrams of a star ground. In one, D.Self's, the path from the star point runs back through the input shield to the RCA (outer part) and then to the earthing point. Done this way, isolating the RCA connector seems superfulous. I say this after going to the trouble of isolating the RCA connector so I'm in a quandry about what's best. (I've also used and RCA without isolation to see if there was an obvious problem and found none so far.)
But more to your point, Ive used scrap pieces of unused PCB material by drilling the right sized hole for the connector and trimming around it with a Dremel to get a nice looking shape.
we share a quandry...
Good to see ya, S!
I'm apparently reaching a point similar to the one you so succinctly described (and advised against) very early in this thread...
"Painting yourself into a corner"😀
I made the corner, and left a rope ladder hanging out a window, but...
I'd rather take the stairs, if I can...
Do you have links to those diagrams?
E
Good to see ya, S!
I'm apparently reaching a point similar to the one you so succinctly described (and advised against) very early in this thread...
"Painting yourself into a corner"😀
I made the corner, and left a rope ladder hanging out a window, but...
I'd rather take the stairs, if I can...
Do you have links to those diagrams?
E
Re: Bzo...
that does sound cool 😀. The panels are 6051 and some of them are 3/16" and the others 1/4".
ekd said:
that does sound cool 😀. The panels are 6051 and some of them are 3/16" and the others 1/4".
That's a bit thick for a drill press (side loads), I think...
But Chipco is the one to set the limits. I was thinking a sliding table with tight tolorances, and positive stops.
C, is this out of bounds with a very small end mill?
E
But Chipco is the one to set the limits. I was thinking a sliding table with tight tolorances, and positive stops.
C, is this out of bounds with a very small end mill?
E
How small of a diameter? Don't be greedy... limit the depth of cut to 20-25% of the diameter. The REAL ISSUE is the runout of the chuck & drill press spindle (let alone the "table"). You can come over and use my mill. You won' have to pack much and I have a great place to buy nice solid carbide Eastern Euro endmills, cheap.
Grab your $hit, Bzo...
I need endmills, and could use some road time...
Your ride or mine?
We're gonna need jerky, cookies, boiled eggs (guess why?), all the CDs...
How big are the panels?
And remember, vents can be filed a bit. Just don't let C near them with his mikes. If it looks good... you don't wanna know more...
E
I need endmills, and could use some road time...
Your ride or mine?
We're gonna need jerky, cookies, boiled eggs (guess why?), all the CDs...
How big are the panels?
And remember, vents can be filed a bit. Just don't let C near them with his mikes. If it looks good... you don't wanna know more...
E
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