How does it sound? Is isnt it very sensitive to vibrations due to the long finns on the heatsink?
Magura🙂
Magura🙂
LM3875(s).
Here's the funny part...
I started this to kill boredom while a backorder for sink material for the 6ch was stewing. Of course, now that I only have 4 ch worth of GCs left... you guessed it!
Comes tomorrow. When I'll have the parts to build the now missing 2...?
Still 😀 ing my a&& off!
E
Here's the funny part...
I started this to kill boredom while a backorder for sink material for the 6ch was stewing. Of course, now that I only have 4 ch worth of GCs left... you guessed it!
Comes tomorrow. When I'll have the parts to build the now missing 2...?
Still 😀 ing my a&& off!
E
Post #161
"How does it sound? Is isnt it very sensitive to vibrations due to the long finns on the heatsink?"
It sounds great (a lot like my PS Model One), and I have tapped the sink, while playing tunes...No apparent problem. I'm intending to pack the chip bay with my damping paste anyway.
E
"How does it sound? Is isnt it very sensitive to vibrations due to the long finns on the heatsink?"
It sounds great (a lot like my PS Model One), and I have tapped the sink, while playing tunes...No apparent problem. I'm intending to pack the chip bay with my damping paste anyway.
E
Could you for the sake of the experiment try flicking the finns while playing?
If you havnt got any result out of that, then you sure done something real well....gotta find out what youve done different from others.
Magura🙂
If you havnt got any result out of that, then you sure done something real well....gotta find out what youve done different from others.
Magura🙂
Remember, this is my first DIY amp. I have nothing to compare it to but a small mountain of Class A gear.
Whether there are improvements to be had by damping... We'll soon see.
I'll get someone to ring the fins while I sit in the "Sweet Spot" before making any claims beyond this.
E
Whether there are improvements to be had by damping... We'll soon see.
I'll get someone to ring the fins while I sit in the "Sweet Spot" before making any claims beyond this.
E
baggystevo82 said:
(Taig Lathe) so long as you're patient and don't go mad with cuts, mostly because that spindly little v-belt isn't up to much, and I never got round to making an alternative.
Have you had a chance to try the Sherline? I wonder if it's any better or worse as it appears to have a similar light belt setup. Maybe it's not a problem on using those heads for milling though, as they'll be limited to a fairly small end mill.
Bzo...
Don't underestimate the abilities of small belts.
The drive belt on the green bike (above) is only .325 wide, and it hauls me around well.
Depending on what I'm hauling around, my GVW is nearly 300#. I'm not a small guy...
You have other specs to worry about.
E
Don't underestimate the abilities of small belts.
The drive belt on the green bike (above) is only .325 wide, and it hauls me around well.
Depending on what I'm hauling around, my GVW is nearly 300#. I'm not a small guy...
You have other specs to worry about.
E
bzo said:
Have you had a chance to try the Sherline? .... as they'll be limited to a fairly small end mill.
No I haven't, but if it has the same belt setup Im sure there will be a similar problem
ekd said:The drive belt on the green bike (above) is only .325 wide, and it hauls me around well.
You have other specs to worry about.
The belt on these lathes is around 1/8", much smaller than .325. The other specs (im assuming your mainly on about rigidity) is not a problem. With a plain cylindrical workpiece my lathe has never chattered before the belt starts slipping. Therefore it is the main limiting factor, and other specs are adequet up to this level.
Steve
The belt (.200 wide) has never slipped on my Sherline.
The bike has a toothed X series belt, hence the suggestion. It doesn't slip either.
There is something wrong here... Might be your machines design? What kind of belt is it using (look for codes printed on it)? Sounds awfully spindly...
E
The bike has a toothed X series belt, hence the suggestion. It doesn't slip either.
There is something wrong here... Might be your machines design? What kind of belt is it using (look for codes printed on it)? Sounds awfully spindly...
E
I just caught this on Ebay if anyone is interested. This small CNC Mill could be used to mill prototype Printed Circuit Boards also.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3808276640&category=58254#ShippingPayment
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3808276640&category=58254#ShippingPayment
For those who are serious about this hobby a small milling machine may be a good investment. Grizzly makes smaller milling machines for about $1200 USD. The one pictured here has a 21 1/2" "X" travel which is more than enough to mill a nice edge and square up a 19" front panel or mill an edge on a heat sink. Sometimes you can find a used DRO (digital read out) on Ebay for not too much money. Add a DRO to this machine and milling is a snap.
Note: I am not affiliated with Grizzly in any way. I just bought a similar machine.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Note: I am not affiliated with Grizzly in any way. I just bought a similar machine.
ekd said:Might be your machines design? What kind of belt is it using (look for codes printed on it)? Sounds awfully spindly...
I agree very spindly!! And it's not toothed, just a plain v-belt. It does mean they can make the pulleys smaller and cheaper though (quite a large factor as there's no electronic speed control, all has to be done on the 6 pulleys, and the motors 2 speeds). For the most part it copes surprisingly well, but it still really doesn't match the rigidity of the lathe or torque of the motor (Mine was supplied with a half hp motor, hardly very stressed in this application!!).
At the other end of the spectrum Ive seen people using cam belts on these! But I would imagine the use of these would require some kind of speed controller.
kilowattski said:I just caught this on Ebay if anyone is interested. This small CNC Mill could be used to mill prototype Printed Circuit Boards also.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3808276640&category=58254#ShippingPayment
That link doesn't seem to be working 🙁 says it's an invalid item. Was it similar to the Grizzley above?
Sorry,
For some reason the link got messed up......
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3807401559&category=58254
For some reason the link got messed up......
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3807401559&category=58254
Guys... I just got a note from Unhinged, thanking us and stating that he is still reading everything. His account is glitched for the moment, but that won't last...
It is *his* thread (well named, and articulately begun), after all!😀
What do you say we don't do anything basic without remembering that what is merely usual for us, is useful to others...
Somebody taught you. It's your turn, now.
And, Steve... Converting your tool to "cam" (x-series) belts/pulleys would be a real (and expensive) pain. All I can say is ... Try to find better quality belts for your current system. It's hard to believe that anyone who can produce accurate tools would make such a rookie mistake on drivetrain. Just remember that the designer has no control over parts sourcing. Give the designer just one more chance, and look for the belt that he intended for you...
That's all I got left... sorry.
E
It is *his* thread (well named, and articulately begun), after all!😀
What do you say we don't do anything basic without remembering that what is merely usual for us, is useful to others...
Somebody taught you. It's your turn, now.
And, Steve... Converting your tool to "cam" (x-series) belts/pulleys would be a real (and expensive) pain. All I can say is ... Try to find better quality belts for your current system. It's hard to believe that anyone who can produce accurate tools would make such a rookie mistake on drivetrain. Just remember that the designer has no control over parts sourcing. Give the designer just one more chance, and look for the belt that he intended for you...
That's all I got left... sorry.
E
I was building a lid for my GC box, and came up with this...
It's a very precise sanding machine that works on any material, uses quality auto body abrasives, and is made from scrap lumber.
Anyone can afford to own this rig. And I've seen it work. It's far more accurate than a belt sander. Just takes longer.
Flip it over, and it presents a blank table just itchin' for another weird tool.
I'm gonna look into what else a guy could put in/on this setup. I'll bet you a beer that I can design a small, nearly human powered (+cordless drill + soldering iron...) GC shop...
That is self contained, and has lotsa room...
And build small, precise, and stylish GCs with it.
They'll make great presents...😀
What do you say? Let's KILL something, and EAT it!
E
It's a very precise sanding machine that works on any material, uses quality auto body abrasives, and is made from scrap lumber.
Anyone can afford to own this rig. And I've seen it work. It's far more accurate than a belt sander. Just takes longer.
Flip it over, and it presents a blank table just itchin' for another weird tool.
I'm gonna look into what else a guy could put in/on this setup. I'll bet you a beer that I can design a small, nearly human powered (+cordless drill + soldering iron...) GC shop...
That is self contained, and has lotsa room...
And build small, precise, and stylish GCs with it.
They'll make great presents...😀
What do you say? Let's KILL something, and EAT it!
E
Attachments
Per EKD and the designer and the belt thing... I have seen this before and may be true on high or low speeds where the pulley is small on the drive or driven sjeeve. Hot belts and slippage?
Try a "cut" belt. It's a v-belt with notches in the "v" part. It allows the belt to travel across the small sheeve easier. It runs cooler and won't slip as easy.
Try a "cut" belt. It's a v-belt with notches in the "v" part. It allows the belt to travel across the small sheeve easier. It runs cooler and won't slip as easy.
Chipco is right...
The Sherline uses plain pulleys, and cut belts. I swear to you, it'll smoke motors before it slips belts.
I have another great idea (Oh, $#!+, there he goes again...)!!
Let's breed Kilowattski's avatar with Maguras...
The results will either be funny as heck, AND gorgeous... Or we'll put it in a sack and drop it in the river... 😀
E
The Sherline uses plain pulleys, and cut belts. I swear to you, it'll smoke motors before it slips belts.
I have another great idea (Oh, $#!+, there he goes again...)!!
Let's breed Kilowattski's avatar with Maguras...
The results will either be funny as heck, AND gorgeous... Or we'll put it in a sack and drop it in the river... 😀
E
Now that it was mentioned. To CNC PCB's is a bliss, and high precision as well. Ive done that a few times, and its just so much easier than etching. Only problem is that the board have to be of reasonable quality to be straight enough to work with this method.
Magura🙂
Magura🙂
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
- Home
- General Interest
- Everything Else
- Cutting, drilling, mounting etc. for the absolute beginner