EDIT: Peter's post came in between....this is a response to EKD.
LOL.... 😀
I actually just made a vaccuum table for use when working in plastic and the like. It was originally intended for when i machine PCB's. I have found it to be easier to just CNC the PCB's than etching.
On that the vaccuum holes in the plane are threaded to allow for opening and closing individual holes without anything being in the way of the workpiece.....1200 threaded holes
Magura🙂
LOL.... 😀
I actually just made a vaccuum table for use when working in plastic and the like. It was originally intended for when i machine PCB's. I have found it to be easier to just CNC the PCB's than etching.
On that the vaccuum holes in the plane are threaded to allow for opening and closing individual holes without anything being in the way of the workpiece.....1200 threaded holes
Magura🙂
baggystevo82 said:
Nope....no vaccuum table if i had to to that lot by hand!!!
It was quite interesting though, I made stops for every 150 threads, and you could see how the wear influenced the tap.
Magura🙂
chipco3434 said:
this was some timely advice for me, I was just about to order a full TiN drill bit set and anticipate working mostly with Al. How about those cobalt alloy bits? Any benefit to that over plain HSS?
baggystevo82 said:
thanks for the links Steve, it looks like the Taig heads would work nicely for my CNC project too. The lathe itself is very inexpensive. If it's decent, I may be tempted to get one!
~ Cobalt Alloy is basically HSS (high speed steel). BTW The specific series is "M" as in M2 and M42, the most common, have 2 to 7% cobalt. The cobalt is added to increase "red hardness, as the cutting edge becomes microscopically red hot during drilling of steels.
The cobalts would be an OK choice. A better choice would be to go to your local industrial supplier and purchase the tap drils for #4, #6, #10, and 1/4" and some nominal sizes like 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 5/16 & 3/8. Get them in short split point style and you will love them.
The sizes for these tap drills are #43, #36, #21, and #7 respectively. Note that they are UNF (fine) threads on the small sizes and the 1/4" is 20 TPI and a UNC thread.
All this talk of benchtop machines is driving me crazy so I have to tell you that we are dealers for these German lathes and mills....
The construction is exclusively cast iron.
http://www.ismg4tools.com/
The cobalts would be an OK choice. A better choice would be to go to your local industrial supplier and purchase the tap drils for #4, #6, #10, and 1/4" and some nominal sizes like 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 5/16 & 3/8. Get them in short split point style and you will love them.
The sizes for these tap drills are #43, #36, #21, and #7 respectively. Note that they are UNF (fine) threads on the small sizes and the 1/4" is 20 TPI and a UNC thread.
All this talk of benchtop machines is driving me crazy so I have to tell you that we are dealers for these German lathes and mills....
The construction is exclusively cast iron.
http://www.ismg4tools.com/
They do exactly what they're meant to. Better than the Unimat IMO. I've had one since I was about 13, randomly, and taught me most of what I needed to know when I did my year out in a machine shop making choo choo trains. If you get the top slide and vertical slide too it's surprisingly versatile, so long as you're patient and don't go mad with cuts, mostly because that spindly little v-belt isn't up to much, and I never got round to making an alternative. The only drawback is no screwcutting or feeds, but many people have DIY'd these on, plenty of room for a leadscrew etc. I still use it occasionally for small jobs, mostly bits n pieces for my bike. And it's small so if it's sunny out you can take it out in the garden and enjoy the sun 🙂
All well and good if you have the space/money for something like that, and over here you can pick up ex-industrial cnc stuff for penuts at auction. The companies sell because they're too old (not necessarily worn out, just software and compatability troubles with more modern systems), and the general public don't want them because they're too big and heavy. Just as soon as Im finished at uni....and have some room....
Yup, stereo.
And it sounds great! I made a ground setup w/14g solid Cu, and messed with it till the amp had that clean GC sound. Makes a heck of a difference. Just jumpered w/o star ground, it had that great Walmart sound...
Nothing against Walmart, of course... All my Sunday-go-to-meeting clothes are from there...
😀
Should I ground the case? Hook that to the power ground section?
E
And it sounds great! I made a ground setup w/14g solid Cu, and messed with it till the amp had that clean GC sound. Makes a heck of a difference. Just jumpered w/o star ground, it had that great Walmart sound...
Nothing against Walmart, of course... All my Sunday-go-to-meeting clothes are from there...
😀
Should I ground the case? Hook that to the power ground section?
E
2 x Mono block? Yup, I cut the strip before I realized that.
Gonna get another strip, and put it in to test the options. As you can see, there is space for exactly 2 more stations.
Give it to me straight, guys...Please. *Any* thoughts...
OT... Can you imagine what we'd build if we were all in the same shop? Boggles my feeble mind!
The World is luckier than they know...
😀
E
Gonna get another strip, and put it in to test the options. As you can see, there is space for exactly 2 more stations.
Give it to me straight, guys...Please. *Any* thoughts...
OT... Can you imagine what we'd build if we were all in the same shop? Boggles my feeble mind!
The World is luckier than they know...
😀
E
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